mrkopsho
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Posts posted by mrkopsho
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You’re almost guaranteed to break everyone of them. You can buy the clips and pull the window to reinstall them but the window guys just put an A$$ load of window urethane down and stick the trim back on it. If you don’t bend it all up getting it off, it helps.
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Over all I love the body kit. I think it would look good all chrome.
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Sweet thanks man, I'm saving up a little more and I'm doing a complete over haul rust, headers, dialing in those su's and groung effects. I hope it dont break down on the way over there tho Ill keep in touch!!!
Looking foward to your visit
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The fact they are used doesn’t bother me at all. I was under the impression that these arms underwent a hardening process that would be removed if you were to grind on the surface? Maybe the pics don’t show it enough but if you ran your finger across the pad it would probably result in missing skin. (Not exaggerating here) No simple scuff or polish here. The surface feels and looks as if a rock grinding disk was taken to it. Try looking at he pics "Full size"
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Pease any one I LOVE MY Z and dontwant any one that does not have datsun/nissan running thru there blood to touch my baby!!!! I need a shop within a 20 mile radius of LARGO,FL
I'm not within 20 miles but if you havent found someone yet.... CK Kustoms in Ocala, Florida. I'm an hour north of orlando and half an hour south of g'ville. I love z cars and do any and all custom work including rust repair, major collision, custom body kits... The list goes on. My shop addy is 3040 NW 21st St. Ocala Fl. 34475 Phone is (352) 438-6476. I do alot of high end vehicles but the Z is my passion!
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Here they are. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k258/mrkopsho/Zcar/ Notice the grind marks on the pad of the rocker arm? They are very rough. Like a 36 grit grinding pad was used. I would think this rough surface would do damage to the lobes?
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It’s been a pain to get the pics up here! I can’t get online at my new place right now until the run the cable down my driveway. Cable company makes it sound like the whole world has to stop for them to run 700ft of cable!!
Anyway my friend’s pc is a dinosaur. So I have to put the pics on cd first then upload them to the computer. I tried to put pics on the site yesterday but they were to big so I would have to resize them first.
I'm loading them to photo bucket now and should have the links up tonight.
I went ahead and let paypal sort it out and they took the money back from him but they are making me pay to ship the head back. I'm not very happy about this but something is better than nothing. I'm also reporting his deeds to e-bay and anyone else that will listen. I would normally not make such a big deal out of something like this but this was no accident. This seller intentionally lied and was hoping he could get away with it. I can’t help but think about if someone else would have purchased this item and didn’t check it like I did. It’s just not fair to mislead people like that!
Anyway I'm done ranting for now. I'll post the pics soon
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Darrel Thanks for the links. I now know a little more about who I'm dealing with. I'll get some pics posted soon. I just took some close up shots of the rocker arms and casting marks on the crank. I'm using a friend pc and I have to get the pics on a disk before I can post em.
Can anyone tell me if its ok to grind on datsun rocker arms? I was under the impression that they were heat treated and this would take off the treated surface!!
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Hey all. I'm rebuilding the engine in my 83 zx and decided to replace the stock head with an n42 head. Accourding to some research it will give more compression. I'm not trying to build a race car here. I just want a little more power. I'm adding headers and some custom exhaust as well. I decided to put a cam from motorsports in but whilst on ebay I see this deal http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160273414686&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006. I figure I cant go wrong seeing as the cam I wanted was over 500.00 and I still had to do head work to the old n42 head I had.
I recieved the head on friday and the first thing I noticed is the cam looks just like the stock cam with no other markings or stamps like regrinds would have. I mic'd the lobs of the "new" cam and then the lobes of the stock cam I have and found them to be identical. I have read several posts here on schneider cams and noticed the cams are pretty mild but shouldn't there be enough of a difference to notice? Does anyone know if schneider puts any identifying marks on thier cams and where? It wouldnt make much sense for them not to.
Also I noticed the arms had been ground on. Arent the arms hardened and wouldnt grinding them remove the hardened surface? They (rocker arms) dont appear smooth at all. Looks like someone took a hand grinder to them!!
Any info on how to tell for sure if this is indead a schneider cam before I report this to paypal would be great.
It should be mentioned that I have written a message to the seller asking him politely if there was a chance I got sent the wrong head. He does have several of them according to his auction. I have not received a response as of yet.
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does anyone have a picture of the non-speaker fiberglass panel installed on a door?
I NEVER Would have thought I would even CONSIDER something like fiberglass door panels, but you can't FIGHT them at this price!
Never? They are lighter,stronger and dont rot like the original parts. I would always take a fiberglass panel over stock any day!
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anyone know if petse still selling these?
Last time I talked with him he had some in stock and ready to go. It seams like there was alot of interest but then very few actually purchased them.
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If it makes you feel any better...my freind with the other boosted Z has an expired sticker from like 1984 or something like that and has never gotten a ticket for it.
It's only a matter of time. Any thing over three months old is considered a jailable offence. Just a friendly warning.
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Little known fact about true HVLP guns: They require (accourding to manufacturers directions) a minimum of 3/8 in air lines AND fittings. A lot of people use 3/8 inch airlines but then put on 1/4 inch air nipples which reduces the amount of volume that can pass through the line. To truely get the HVLP (HIGH VOLUME LOW PRESSURE) guns to spray as they were intended, you must have the correct air supply system set up. Once I learned this and changed my hoses/fittings to what they were supposed to be, my guns spray like a dream. If you dont have the correct set up then you'll have to turn the pressure way up to get the paint to lay down smooth which renders the whole HVLP idea useless.
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Then sounds like us first gen guys won't be doing this mod anytime soon.
You Can always takea stack of paint stirring sticks and glue them together with elmers glue.Then you glue the sticks to the roof of the car using window urethane. You can use these to screw into.
Sounds kinda "riggish" I know, but it works well. Once the window urethane sets up you wont ever have to worry about it falling off! Also, you can use any type of wood shims or other "wood items". I just happen to be a painter and have about a hundred of the sticks around the shop so thats what I use. -
It's a new color and i'm painting the whole car that color. It's no where close to the original gray this car was painted. Or are you referring to sparyaing one panel at a time vs the whole car?
Thanks
Well, I assumed you had just painted the headlight covers but if you do paint one panel at a time you stand a good chance of having color mis-match problems. With high met. colors especialy, temperature,humidity,pressure differences at the gun,a little more or less reducer than used the time before, ect, ect... There are all kinds of things that would cause the metal to flow differently with one application than the other. There have been times that I had to respray a panel for whatever reason and had no problem. Then there are the other times.
I've had "old timers" tell me that it was b/c I dont spray consistant from one job to the next but then they have the same problem. If you do spray all the panels one at a time just try to make sure of your coverage and try to spray them in the relative same temp. With in 5 deg. -
Also,let meknow how that color matches. Ive been painting for years now and it's VERY rare to spray one panel with out blending into the surrounding panels and have the color match. Especialy silver.
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If your paint has already dried and you dont have at least 3 med. wet coats on it. You can wet sand with 800 paper and add more clear. Also you will find it almost impossible to cut and buff those with out installing them first so you will have to raise the lights up just a little bit manually so they dont sit flush. Otherwise you stand a good chance of burning through the surrounding body edges.
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hgeorge1..Sounds like it would be cheeper and easier to pay someone to do the work for you. (hint) JK I always wanted to do my custom stuff myself too. Thats the whole reason I got into paint and body. Icouldnt afford to pay for classes though so Ilearned most of what I know by trial and error (and ALOT of questions at my local paint supply stores
)BTW You got ant pics? Would like to see it before you do the body work.
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That will work for me in saving shipping..my territory extends to Homestead. Gonna be traveling to Orlando next week, may drop by and take a look at the proto-types if there are any. I'm looking to have power windows and the cool little speaker cove. Do you happen to know the fella with the z in J'ville with the panterea hatch? Like to get a look at that. Give me a call if the the stop by is good with ya..770-289-8388. Glenn
Sorry, but I'm not the one who is going to make these parts.He lives in Cali. Follow the link in my last post to see what the parts will look like. As far as knowing who has the pantera hatch. I dont get to j'ville very often.
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If you can get me an example of how it would look i would be down.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105320&page=7
Follow this link and scroll about half way down the page. You will see what the finished product looked likefor the early z models. They will look just like these, only for the zx.
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Even with the T-top there is a structural pc of metal support running under the head-liner. You should have plenty of metal to screw through without hitting the roof but you have to be very careful about the length of the screws you use!
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So, what is the trick to getting them off without breaking/bending anything? I will be putting them back on after body/paint work.
Patience
LOL.. And a steady hand -
What is this drip rail I keep hearing so much about? Does the 280ZX have it also? Yes, the zx also has one. There is a thin strip of metal that protrudes off the roof line just over the top of the doors. It usually has a pc. of trim over it unless someone has removed it. If you look at the top of your driver and passanger window where the rubber meets the window,the drip rail is just above that rubber.
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What about removing them to powdercoat them black or something? Don't know what sort of look you're going for, or even if that's possible. Just a thought.
Can you remove those without tearing them up beyond the point of reusing them?
There are covers over he drip rail that can be removed but you can not remove a drip rail and then just re-instal it. The rail itself must be "cut" off by cut off wheel or other means. What is left behind is a worthless 1/4 inch wide strip of metal.
Sounds kinda "riggish" I know, but it works well. Once the window urethane sets up you wont ever have to worry about it falling off! Also, you can use any type of wood shims or other "wood items". I just happen to be a painter and have about a hundred of the sticks around the shop so thats what I use.
I've had "old timers" tell me that it was b/c I dont spray consistant from one job to the next but then they have the same problem. If you do spray all the panels one at a time just try to make sure of your coverage and try to spray them in the relative same temp. With in 5 deg.
If your paint has already dried and you dont have at least 3 med. wet coats on it. You can wet sand with 800 paper and add more clear. Also you will find it almost impossible to cut and buff those with out installing them first so you will have to raise the lights up just a little bit manually so they dont sit flush. Otherwise you stand a good chance of burning through the surrounding body edges.
)
Yes, the zx also has one. There is a thin strip of metal that protrudes off the roof line just over the top of the doors. It usually has a pc. of trim over it unless someone has removed it. If you look at the top of your driver and passanger window where the rubber meets the window,the drip rail is just above that rubber.
How many 280zx's have YOU had? or have?
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
79 coupe NA parts car
81 coupe NA building to street race
83 coupe NA Daily driver (my only true love) custom everything
And a black and gold 10th ann. model that got two trees dropped on her durring hurricanes a few yrs back
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I'll be buying an 81 turbo next month:burnout:
And just because its worth mentioning I have a shiro 50th ann. edition 300 zx that I never drive b/c I love my 130's to much!