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About lorenzo

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/09/1967

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    Toronto Ontario
  1. Just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread and let everyone know that I have finally solved the problem! Used a1983 280zx alternator (AC Delco) remanufactured Wiring as recommended by Zcarcreations Charge light seems to be working well and turns off after starting it. Getting 14.55 volts under load. I will not get much chance to drive it though as winter is just around the corner
  2. Thanks everyone, I think after 4 voltage regulators I will try installing the 1983 280zx alternator and wiring it like zcarcreations recommends.
  3. NewZed, thank you for the link. I will look into that connection under the passenger seat. This seems to be a strange one. Would this continue to be a concern if I were to do the swap with a ZX alternator?
  4. Thank you for this detailed write-up chickenman!
  5. Grillhands, did you use the rewiring write-up from Atantic Z? That site is no longer working for some reason.
  6. Chickenman, does that alternator require any mods to fit in the same spot as the original alternator?
  7. I have been away from the car for a bit and it is still not charging correctly. I do not have a Floor Temp fuse in my car, that slot is empty.
  8. 1976 280z coupe changed battery (it was bad), voltage regulator, belt and alternator (which tested bad). The car still fails to charge, I am reading about 12.6 under no load and about 12.3 or 12.4 under load. Car is Still hesitating and bogging at stops. Any thoughts on what I should look for, maybe bad wiring?
  9. I would like to thank everyone for all the great advice, I am feeling a little better about what happened. Hopefully, I will have it fixed soon, it is such a tight spot to work in!
  10. I was replacing the temperature switch on my 1976 280z tonight and I must have gone too far and cracked the housing. When I put everything back together there was some antifreeze squirting out around the sensor. I cleaned it up and found there was a hairline fracture Is this a lot of work and time consuming to change? I have never done it before. I checked Motorsport and they do not even carry the part. I was thinking of sealing it with a gasket sealer but not sure if that would even work. Any ideas? Where to buy? Thanks
  11. Hi Phantom, are you referring to the Carbon Canister? If you are then yes it is still original.
  12. Okay something new, I checked the wires and resistance is good on all 6 wires. When I start the car and leave it idling and revving there is no bogging whatsoever, even left it for about 30 minutes. This tells me it is not temperature related. It is only when I start driving the car that the bogging starts, could this be a problem with the AFM? Possibly the flap?
  13. I tried this only one had a bit of darkness the others were clean and dry looking. I am wondering if there is a problem with my carbon canister, or spark plug wires, I will check their resistance tomorrow.
  14. I will try this when I get the chance. Another thing I noticed is when I open my gas cap there seems to be little if any pressure released, I remember it would usually pop and exhale a lot of air when I would open it before.
  15. Yes It drives well for about 5 minutes then it starts acting up, like it is starving for fuel. That is why I changed the Water Temperature Sensor, I thought that was the culprit. Changed the Temperature gauge sensor too while I had the fluids out of the rad.