Dershum

Sorry, didn't meant to be accusatory or abrupt, I was just hoping it wasn't for inspection purposes and hoping that FL had something similar to NJ. Glad to hear things are working out though!

What's the rush to get to the DMV? Inspection? Do they have historic-style plates in FL? Cause in NJ with Historic plates I don't believe you need an inspection...at least from everything I've read its not required, and I don't even have an inspection sticker on my Z any more (with historic plates) and haven't gotten much more than a wave from the local cops.

Glad you got some of it worked out...small victories keep you going I'll 110% second Tony D on his statement. I've torn just about every bit of PO wiring out of the car, with the exception of a very strangely wired headlight harness that I still haven't fully sorted out. As a matter or fact, this past weekend I was reinstalling my newly upholstered seats, and decided to tackle a really bizarre wire that was running along the driver side doorsill. Turns out that it was a connection from the front blinkers to the rear ones, but two of the three lines were taped off, only connecting a power lead. I'm still not 100% sure it's correct, but I at least pulled out a bunch of the extra/strange wires, ran it along the tunnel so it wasn't somewhere I could catch my foot on it. Also, there was some sort of aftermarket switch that appeared to have been spliced in to raise the antenna. I'm not sure what is "correct" as far as the antenna (the original radio is long gone) but something tells me it wasn't original...and I don't have a radio anyway, so out it came. As for what you have left, I have a non-functional fuel gauge as well. Goes to "F" no matter what's in the tank. I just haven't gotten around to diagnosing it yet. I just try to make sure I keep gas in it

For the blinkers/brake lights/etc., I would check your hazard light switch. If it's anything like my 71, a bad switch there (or an incorrectly wired one) will take all of those out. They all run through that switch so that they can come on when you turn on your hazard flashers. For the headlights, I had a similar problem. First, go back to the wiring where they connect to the combo switch on the steering column. I would bet that you simply have two of them crossed, assuming they were working previously. If not, try turning them on and seeing if you have any current downstream from the switch. You can do it right at the headlight socket if you want, but if you're reading some voltage, but not a full 12+, then I would suggest cleaning the contacts on your headlight switch. It's pretty easy, but if those contacts are corroded (mine were) and you're not getting a full 12+ (around 12.3-12.4 with the engine off) then I would bet that's where your problem is. FInally, I would strongly suggest the fuse box upgrade that MSA sells. It's an extremely worthwhile investment, and once you get everything sorted out, it'll give you gerat peace of mind knowing you're not running the older fuse box that tends to melt...at least if it's like the one that was on my 71.

Holy crap...how'd I ever miss this site? You're now my personal hero...and I'm about to go broke.

I wasn't really looking to jump at stainless in particular, more that I was looking for "correct" replacements. I managed to find replacements for the "oval" head bolts at Lowe's, but their bins of the pan-head sizes (they're M8 x 1.0tp I believe) were...well...demolished, so I couldn't tell if the pan-head sizes would be large enough. I wouldn't mind the chromed-style ones that were on there, but I'm not quite sure where to look.

So I have everything all cleaned up and reupholstered on my seats, and they look great...except the old machine screws (the large pan head and oval head ones) that bolt the seat bottoms and backs to the side brackets and frame. Most of them are pretty chipped, have stripped heads, and are generally beat to hell. I'm guessing I can get relatively close replacements in stainless steel from a place like boltdepot, but I was wondering if anyone has seen a proper set of replacements for these guys? I looked on the usual suspect sites, but didn't really come up with anything. Thanks!

Yep, that's correct. It's an adjustment for the angle of the seat back. I guess from your statement that I'm probably safe going with the 70-71 kit? I'll probably order, but include pics or a link to this thread when I do so that MSA can take a peek.

I don't believe there are any electrical connections to the seat belt or of any kind, but I'll take a look later. I've peeked under them as best I can without pulling them all the way out, but I haven't seen anything that looks like a wire or connection going to them. I know there aren't any lights or buzzers that go off if you drive it without the belt on though...at least none that are connected. Just so I know, what are the differences between the 70-71 seats and 72-73 seats, particular in relation to the re-upholstering kits sold by MSA? Are they simply the style of the materials (grain, pleats, etc), or are the seat frames completely different?

For lack of a better word, there is a little "wheel" on the side of each seat that adjusts the seat back. I'm not sure if that constitutes "reclining", but that's the only adjustment on the side. The seats also slide back and forth via the usual adjustment bar underneath.

I'm planning to re-cover my seats using MSA's upholstery kit (along with re-foam, etc), but because I have no history of the car prior to the PO, I'm hoping that someone can confirm that these are 70/71 style seats in my 240...that way I'm sure I'm getting the right kit. Thanks much!