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Dershum

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Everything posted by Dershum

  1. If you're talking about something sprayed on the under side then I have no idea, but if you're talking about the rubberized stuff inside on the floors then a wire wheel will do nothing but make a giant mess. I tried it before moving on to dry ice, which is IMO the ONLY way to go. There was still a little leftover undercoating in isolated spots and I still hate it when I accidentally hit one with a grinder disc or wire wheel while I'm cutting or grinding welds. Makes a huge mess and sprays all over.
  2. Beautiful! Why mess with it at all? Love the wheels, and I think that it works not being slammed all the way down.
  3. I personally welded in cross-braces when I cut out my floor pans just to make sure it didn't shift at all. And I only did one side at a time. So far, no twisting, but I still don't have it back down on wheels. Considering that it's a unibody car, I'm not sure I'd cut out BOTH floorpans, and their connected frame rails without some sort of cross bracing to make sure nothing gets tweaked. Especially since you're never sure what other rust is lurking in places like your rocker panels. Of course, I also welded on both the replace ment rails that came with the floor pans, AND the bad-dog rails over top of them when I replaced my floors. I tend to over-engineer things however.
  4. That's what the guy in the email said. Website lists them too. I don't know if it includes the fuel/vent lines, cause he didn't answer that part of the question.
  5. http://www.classictube.com/ I emailed back-and-forth a few times with one of the folks who work there, and they still make full sets. Can't vouch for the quality, but I plan on picking up a set when I'm closer to needing them.
  6. That's too funny...I have a nearly identical hole right where my battery tray used to be. I'm just finishing up my floor pans, and that's next on my list...
  7. If you're going to put in new pans, you're going to have to remove the tar around the areas you want to weld to. That stuff is nasty when it melts/catches fire, and will do nothing but destroy your welds. Do yourself a favor and search around for dry ice techniques...I had a post on how I did mine about a year ago. It really beats trying to heat it up w/a heat gun or torch to scrape it off and getting all kinds of lovely melted tar burns on yourself. And it only takes a couple hours once you've got everything prepped and the dry ice. Plus, you get the benefit of getting to impress your neighbors and show off neat tricks w/the dry ice while you're waiting for the insulation to freeze off
  8. Whelp, checked with MSA...and I quote: "We hear a lot of rumors but no news whatsoever. Sorry."
  9. Not to bring a dead horse back from the grave (Halloween is around the corner however), has anyone heard about availability of Tokico's springs yet? Christmas is coming, and I was hoping Santa would order me a set
  10. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but IIRC, you can just use two right-side inners, and just use a right-side outer on the left side. Edit: and a word of caution - don't buy the inners if they're still listed on RockAuto. They're wrong. Ask me how I know
  11. What is the texture on the bed liner like? Is it like "scratch your knuckles" rough? Or is it more rubberized?
  12. Out of curiosity, does anyone know if Z Car Creations still produces these kits? I've sent them a couple emails, but no response...and nothing on Ebay as far as I can tell. At least nothing that matches their User ID listed in the PDF and on their site.
  13. I love those wheels...definitely the ones I want to get when I finally get things to that point. I really like the bronze-colored ones in particular. Good choice!
  14. I was figuring as much. I'm not in a rush for them, so I figured I'd give it the month or so before cancelling and getting an alternative spring.
  15. Emailed MSA yesterday regarding the springs, and got a response earlier today: "Thank you for your email. We actually heard something of an updated earlier today. Tokico apparently was able to break their contract with the US distributor they had been using (the cause of the problem) and is working out a deal with another distribution company. Our rep. at Tokico told us to expect about a month before everything is worked out and parts start shipping to us." So looks like things might start shaking loose in a month or so.
  16. Any recommendations on a reliable/well-priced supplier?
  17. So assuming the Tokico supply has effectively dried up, what would be a good second choice over their performance springs? I've already got brand-new struts, and I don't really want to go with coil overs.
  18. I've had a set of Tokico springs on backorder from MSA since January. I hadn't heard about a specific problem, but that would certainly explain things. Thankfully, the car is no where near needing suspension...but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't cancel the order and find a different spring.
  19. Noticed this in the list of lots sold today at Mecum. Sold for $16,000! "This 1979 Datsun 280 ZX 2-seater coupe has traveled a mere 12,863 miles since new (many service receipts to verify miles). It is the original 905 Cherry Red with a flawless black interior. Both original keys, all the books, many service receipts and the original window sticker are all present. It is equipped with the 2.8L fuel injected overhead cam straight six and 5-speed gearbox, power 4-wheel disc brakes, 4-wheel independent suspension, AM/FM radio, 6-way driver’s seat, tinted windows, rack-and-pinion steering. Presented here is a rare, never smoked in, unmolested example that has survived the test of time." http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=HA0413-149167&entryRow=118&lottype=&startRow=113
  20. Well, for every two steps forward, we get a step back. First, some more progress (yay!). Passenger side, just forward of the firewall in the outside fender well along the frame rail. Cut out and patched. This one came out even better than the last one, so I guess practice really does make perfect (or better at least!) Engine-bay side of the driver strut tower. That's the backside of the fender-well side of the patch. And here's the step back. I knew there was some rust behind brace panel (or whatever that thing is called) that the crossmember bolts to. I drilled out the spot welds (there's a LOT of em) and found this. I don't think it's as bad as it looks though. Looking at the frame rail behind it closely, there doesn't seem to be that much rust on it...just surface rust. I think what we're seeing here is water that's gotten between the inner fender and that little bracing panel, and rusted it from behind. I think it's going to be a bit of pain to patch though, since I'm going to have to repair the fender well, and then make a new brace that will weld over that patch. Also, that brace is much thicker metal (16 gauge if I had to guess, I'll check alter) so I'm going to have to hunt down some material to work with.
  21. Honestly, I haven't quite gotten to that part yet I think that for the strut tower, I'm probably going to seam weld the whole thing all the way around on both of them. There's a little bit of gap there between the patch panel (and the rest of it really) and the body. I suppose I could squirt some seam sealer in there, but welding the seam seems (haha) like it would improve the overall rigidity of things. As for the surface of the two patches, I'll probably use some putty for the small holes and major blemishes, but I'm not going for perfection. If someone can look closely and go "yep, there's a patch there", it's not the end of the world to me. But that's mostly because they're in behind panels and such...if it was an exterior panel, it'd be a different story.
  22. Got those two panels burned in and mostly ground out. May do a little more cleanup, but frankly, I'm sick of grinding.
  23. I have a similar story to Xnke's. The L24 that came with my Z needed quite a bit of love, but I really want to stay with an L24. After pulling the motor, I picked up a full rebuild kit from Z Car Source on sale during the holidays, ARP hardware for just about everything, a lightened flywheel/clutch from Arizona Z Car, some other choice bits from here and there, then dropped it off with a machine shop about a year and a half ago and said "let me know when it's done, and take your time". I just picked it up this past weekend, and while I likely won't be ready to drop it in until later this summer, I'm extremely pleased with the result so far, even though I'm about $3,500 total for just the motor (parts and labor). I think it really all comes down to what you want to do with your car. If I really wanted to keep the entire thing on a very tight budget, I'd be doing what some of the other folks are saying and finding a complete motor that can just drop in as-is. They pop up on the for-sale section here nearly constantly, and for well under a thousand dollars in most cases.
  24. Honestly I have no idea what he looks like. I semi-knew the service manager at the location in Stanhope, and he took me down for a tour of the "basement". Lots of classic Z's down there, including a two-tone 2+2 that I was told was pretty rare. I've never researched it myself, so I just went with it because I had no idea. Some gorgeous original cars down there though, mostly under covers and in what appears to be original condition.
  25. Awesome! Thanks so much! Just one last q...what thickness material do you think would be best? The reason I ask is I don't have the original door panels, so I have no idea...
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