strokerzedd

My '72 240z has Cosmo coil over conversion with even softer springs and it's insanely stiff, broke the lower adjustment nut in 100 miles! What feedback has anyone got for complete coil over struts?

I followed this diagram but the tach still doesn't move.

I've searched and even posted in the past for the definitive means of hooking up an Autometer Electronic Tach (Phantom II) to and RB26 in 240z (1972). I'm using an AEM 1621u ECU. Some of the info I've cut and pasted from various blogs follows: 1.Tach - When you add an Autometer tach you might need to use a tach adapter. For the most part you can just follow the directions, but you do need to find the main power wire to cut so the adapter can intercept the signal and give a good reading to the tach. In the case of the RB it is the main power to the coilpacks. 2.Be very careful about using the tach adapter. I actually fried out the 52 ohm resistor in the ECU for the tach signal. I believe the stock Z gauge needs a 12v signal but an Autometer or other aftermarket tach needs a negative pulse, you don't want to use a tach adapter. Basically the tach adapter takes the negative signal and converts it to a 12v signal. Check if your particular Autometer tach needs a 12v as the signal or a ground, cause I'm sure they make both. The instructions should tell you. 3. Everyone I met could never get the tach adapter to work their tach. I got part from Summit it's an msd tach translator part #8918 (Toyota Dealership Part Number is 83420-16020. Out of a: Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 LE 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 Le All Track 88-91 Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 DLX 88-91 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GT 86-89 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4ST 87-89 Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GTS Sport 86-89. Just tell them you're trying to get your Autometer tach working for your diesel truck and you want the thing that taps on your positive injector wire, it's $30, and you just tap that onto the little two wire plug that's by the ignitor, tap it on the white wire. My tach finally works perfectly. If you wire in an Autometer tach and tap the ecm's tach signal you'll pop the resistor in the ECU! Three different answers. So no definitive answer. Is there someone who has successfully adapted and electronic Autometer Phantom II gauge in a 240z that is running an RB26 with an AEM 1621u? I'm sure someone has and they've found a solution. Please! I made a new gauge pod, so much easier to mount and work on the gauges.

Absolutely brilliant! I wish that someone had put the same together for an R32 RB26 into a 1972 240z, it would have saved me so much trouble.

This 3.1 l stroker has been replaced with an RB26 but it was a great motor.

You want to mount the motor as far back as possible because it weighs 250 lbs more than the L block. There are many threads about mounts, here's a few comments that I cut and pasted: Motor Mounts I've got the billet engine mounts Rick Wong makes for my rb-z project which require 86-87 Toyota Supra Turbo rubber insulators. What I did was went online and ended up getting them from Advanced Auto Parts for a lot less than oem ($75 each) price, and they worked fine on my car. The part number was 12361-42030. Rick goes by the name skyline240z here. You can PM or email him through the site. http://forums.hybridz.org/private.ph...pm&userid=8634 Or buy aftermarket insulators for $3 each and they’re 2/3†lower http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL…part number=2265 or Pioneer Inc. part# 602265. Also interchanges with # M2265 and 270-2265. Or use the stock JDM driver side motor mount with a fabbed USDM driver side is about as low buck as it comes. Use the tranny to set the motor in straight and fabricate in place. I cut and welded the original aluminum mounts.

Last question. Since I don't use the clutch booster vacuum line this would probably be the best line to supply vacuum to my fuel pressure regulator and boost gauge since it's the largest diameter and directly off the air chamber, does this sound right?

Wizardblack, excellent thread this should be "stickied". Right now I've got my MAP and FPR feeding off of the rear inlet on the balance tube, but I think that I'll change that and put the FPR and boost gauge on the same line. Mike, thanks for your help. It's not "pretty", but I consider it a work of art, Datsun gave us something amazing to start with, that's why I bought this car 34 years ago! A good friend of mine has helped me build things for my various rides, he crew chiefed my years of road racing in GT2 and FF. He kids me that he builds something that works, something that he calls made of "unobtainium", I'll take it home and take it apart and make it pretty, then he'll take it and make it work again!

I'm getting so close! I've got a mechanical HKS boost gauge, where's the best place on the intake manifold to take the pressure?

I'm getting so close! I've got a mechanical HKS boost gauge that came with my motor, where's the best place on the intake manifold to draw the pressure?

Thanks for clearing the air, best description I've found!

I found this diagram which has been modified from it's original form. The beige line is the one I'm trying to follow. Is this a vacuum line to my aftermarket BOV mounted just in front of my intake manifold? "from air chamber below evap control to BOV".