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jimlickster

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About jimlickster

  • Birthday 10/02/1969

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  1. I have an Engine that i've been tweeking since it was built. 350 Chevy Block bored .060 Lunati Cam 218/218 @ .050 .458/.458 Lift 110 Lobe Separation Nodular Cast Crank Std/Std Chevy 882 Heads 1.6:1 Ratio Roller Rockers Edelbrock Performer Intake Edelbrock 1406 600 CFM Carb I have recently ordered: Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake Barry Grant Road Demon 725 CFM Carb I'm thinking that the Swap will be noticable. I've heard good and bad about Carburetor Spacers. I think i'll have room. Should i waste my time with it? What EXACTLY does a Carburetor Spacer Change?
  2. I think i got it guys. It's so simple looking back. I changed the Torque Converter today. I went from stock to a 2200-2600. With my engine, it looks like it takes the whole 2600. Had the Engine up to 4000 RPM today and had power all the way through. I broke it's Cherry. I admit that i was worried about the 4000 RPM though. That can't be good for it. I even laid down a little rubber. I think i'm gonna change my Rear to a 3.42 though. Right now i have a 2.73. I want to be able to take long trips with the Thing, but i want responsiveness too. I was cruising down the Road at 75 runnin about 3 grand after i finnished accelerating. I'm still leary of higher RPMs because the engine only has 1000 Miles on it and every single component in the thing is BRAND NEW. I'm worried about blowing an engine that i just spent alot of time and money on.
  3. In low it's nice and responsive. Fuel line is how it was routed stock the fuel filter is right next to the carb and is clear. My distributer is a Stock one. It's the kind with the Coil attached to it. as far as the Vacuum Idle, i'll probably have to get a Friend to help me with that. It idles beautifully at around 700 RPM right now even when it's cold. If i go on a decently long road trip, the idle is around 900 RPM at the end. These are some tidbits that i'll definately need help to check, so it might be a while before i can respond to the suggestions. as usual you guys are EXTREMELY helpful.
  4. The fuel pump is stock. I was thinking it MIGHT be too Rich, but i'm a Rookie at this kind of thing.
  5. The Lobe separation is 110. It's a Lunati Cam with an advertized Duration of 284. Looks like the Document you posted puts it more at an advertized Duration of 268. So, what do you think? Is it a Fuel Problem? Also i just Got a 2200-2600 Stall Converter that i'm going to install on a TH400 Tranny with a 2.73 Rear. When you change the stall speed, does that mean that you have to change the point at which the Transmission shifts as well?
  6. The Cam is .218 Duration at .050 and .458 Lift
  7. It's a 350 that's .060 over Cam is .218 at @.050 and .458 Duration Rockers are 1.6:1 Crank is NEW nodular Steel stock Stroke Rods are NEW Stock Length 882 heads Performer RPM Intake Manifold 600 CFM Edelbrock Carb
  8. My New build runs well, but when i get to 3000 RPM it Loses power. I have a 600CFM Carb. Do you think the problem could be an Improper Mixture, or do i need more GAS. I'm running 882 Heads. Perhaps that's just the limitation of the heads. The Carb is an Edelbrock 1405 and the Manifold is also an Edelbrock (Performer).
  9. Just looked at my RPM range on that cam. It's 1500-5200, but i've noticed that a simalar duration with more lift causes the cam to start at 2000 RPM. Is this a True statement or does lift have nothing to do with a cam's RPM range? Since mine is a .458 Lift, the 1.6 rockers should bring it up to around .488 lift, right?
  10. Recently i've built a new engine for my truck. I want SOME drivability to remain, but i would also like a nice hard takeoff. I don't know how much Horsepower the Engine makes, but i'm guessing that it's over 300. I don't know what i have in there right now, but i do know that these things about my Drivetrain/Engine: TH400 Transmission (I'm sure a Shift kit is installed, but i didn't install it) Engine: 350 Chevy (Block Bored .060) 10:1 Hyper Pistons New Stock Size Crank (Nodular) New Stock Size Rods with ARP wavelocks .218/.218 at .050 .284 Advertized 110 Lobe Serperation .458 Lift Cam 1.6:1 Ratio Rockers 882 Heads 76cc Combustion Chambers 600 CFM Carb
  11. I figured the Bit about your Engine being FORD blue might Illicit a Response. Just picking though.
  12. Looks good, but isn't it a Chevy? Looks like you got it painted FORD blue.
  13. So Far it hasn't gotten colder than 25F here in Mississippi. It has gotten alot colder in the past, but i'm just the nervous type. I Finished the Engine just in time for the winter weather and didn't want to Ruin it. I had indeed heard that you shouldn't use differant Types of Oil. My 1985 Crown Victoria has had Lots of Differant kinds added to it and the Oil looks Sludgy. I would rebuild THAT engine too, but i don't think the car is worth it. Since Ford Can't make a Transmission to save their life and the Car it's self really isn't worth much now, I'm gonna just drive that one until it quits. I'll probably strip the 302 out of it though.
  14. Since Perfomance Engines have more Compression than Most Common Engines, I started to think that if Cold weather is Bad for a normal engine, It is probably More so for a Perfomance Engine. Particularly Vunerable would be a Newly Built engine. I have been Using 10W-30 In my New Performance Engine. I know that you're supposed to use Lighter Oil in the Winter. Should i use 5W-30? A buddy of mine told me that i should use a Heavier Oil (10W-40) To Break in my Engine. I told him that 10W-40 Is actually no Heavier than 10W-30. It Merely has more Viscosity. Should i wait until mid day, When it's Warmer, To Start my Engine?
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