jimlickster

I have an Engine that i've been tweeking since it was built. 350 Chevy Block bored .060 Lunati Cam 218/218 @ .050 .458/.458 Lift 110 Lobe Separation Nodular Cast Crank Std/Std Chevy 882 Heads 1.6:1 Ratio Roller Rockers Edelbrock Performer Intake Edelbrock 1406 600 CFM Carb I have recently ordered: Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake Barry Grant Road Demon 725 CFM Carb I'm thinking that the Swap will be noticable. I've heard good and bad about Carburetor Spacers. I think i'll have room. Should i waste my time with it? What EXACTLY does a Carburetor Spacer Change?

I think i got it guys. It's so simple looking back. I changed the Torque Converter today. I went from stock to a 2200-2600. With my engine, it looks like it takes the whole 2600. Had the Engine up to 4000 RPM today and had power all the way through. I broke it's Cherry. I admit that i was worried about the 4000 RPM though. That can't be good for it. I even laid down a little rubber. I think i'm gonna change my Rear to a 3.42 though. Right now i have a 2.73. I want to be able to take long trips with the Thing, but i want responsiveness too. I was cruising down the Road at 75 runnin about 3 grand after i finnished accelerating. I'm still leary of higher RPMs because the engine only has 1000 Miles on it and every single component in the thing is BRAND NEW. I'm worried about blowing an engine that i just spent alot of time and money on.

In low it's nice and responsive. Fuel line is how it was routed stock the fuel filter is right next to the carb and is clear. My distributer is a Stock one. It's the kind with the Coil attached to it. as far as the Vacuum Idle, i'll probably have to get a Friend to help me with that. It idles beautifully at around 700 RPM right now even when it's cold. If i go on a decently long road trip, the idle is around 900 RPM at the end. These are some tidbits that i'll definately need help to check, so it might be a while before i can respond to the suggestions. as usual you guys are EXTREMELY helpful.

The fuel pump is stock. I was thinking it MIGHT be too Rich, but i'm a Rookie at this kind of thing.

The Lobe separation is 110. It's a Lunati Cam with an advertized Duration of 284. Looks like the Document you posted puts it more at an advertized Duration of 268. So, what do you think? Is it a Fuel Problem? Also i just Got a 2200-2600 Stall Converter that i'm going to install on a TH400 Tranny with a 2.73 Rear. When you change the stall speed, does that mean that you have to change the point at which the Transmission shifts as well?

The Cam is .218 Duration at .050 and .458 Lift

It's a 350 that's .060 over Cam is .218 at @.050 and .458 Duration Rockers are 1.6:1 Crank is NEW nodular Steel stock Stroke Rods are NEW Stock Length 882 heads Performer RPM Intake Manifold 600 CFM Edelbrock Carb

My New build runs well, but when i get to 3000 RPM it Loses power. I have a 600CFM Carb. Do you think the problem could be an Improper Mixture, or do i need more GAS. I'm running 882 Heads. Perhaps that's just the limitation of the heads. The Carb is an Edelbrock 1405 and the Manifold is also an Edelbrock (Performer).

Just looked at my RPM range on that cam. It's 1500-5200, but i've noticed that a simalar duration with more lift causes the cam to start at 2000 RPM. Is this a True statement or does lift have nothing to do with a cam's RPM range? Since mine is a .458 Lift, the 1.6 rockers should bring it up to around .488 lift, right?

Recently i've built a new engine for my truck. I want SOME drivability to remain, but i would also like a nice hard takeoff. I don't know how much Horsepower the Engine makes, but i'm guessing that it's over 300. I don't know what i have in there right now, but i do know that these things about my Drivetrain/Engine: TH400 Transmission (I'm sure a Shift kit is installed, but i didn't install it) Engine: 350 Chevy (Block Bored .060) 10:1 Hyper Pistons New Stock Size Crank (Nodular) New Stock Size Rods with ARP wavelocks .218/.218 at .050 .284 Advertized 110 Lobe Serperation .458 Lift Cam 1.6:1 Ratio Rockers 882 Heads 76cc Combustion Chambers 600 CFM Carb

I figured the Bit about your Engine being FORD blue might Illicit a Response. Just picking though.

Looks good, but isn't it a Chevy? Looks like you got it painted FORD blue.

So Far it hasn't gotten colder than 25F here in Mississippi. It has gotten alot colder in the past, but i'm just the nervous type. I Finished the Engine just in time for the winter weather and didn't want to Ruin it. I had indeed heard that you shouldn't use differant Types of Oil. My 1985 Crown Victoria has had Lots of Differant kinds added to it and the Oil looks Sludgy. I would rebuild THAT engine too, but i don't think the car is worth it. Since Ford Can't make a Transmission to save their life and the Car it's self really isn't worth much now, I'm gonna just drive that one until it quits. I'll probably strip the 302 out of it though.

Since Perfomance Engines have more Compression than Most Common Engines, I started to think that if Cold weather is Bad for a normal engine, It is probably More so for a Perfomance Engine. Particularly Vunerable would be a Newly Built engine. I have been Using 10W-30 In my New Performance Engine. I know that you're supposed to use Lighter Oil in the Winter. Should i use 5W-30? A buddy of mine told me that i should use a Heavier Oil (10W-40) To Break in my Engine. I told him that 10W-40 Is actually no Heavier than 10W-30. It Merely has more Viscosity. Should i wait until mid day, When it's Warmer, To Start my Engine?

Here's a Pic of the Engine:

My New Engine is Complete and Running VERY well. You guys helped me with it and i really appreciate it. I have recently found a Really Cool Hood Scoop that i can use with a Tunnel Ram and really would like to have that setup. The Problem is, If i put another Carb on my Engine, would it be too much Fuel? What would the Tunnel Ram and Extra Carb do to my Performance? I was thinking of running (2) 600 CFM Edelbrocks. The Engine: 350 4 Bolt Main .060 Over Cam: 218/218 at .050 (284/284 Advertized) .458 Lift 110 Lobe Separation Crank: NEW Std/Std Nodular Steel Counterweighted Rods: NEW 5.7" H-Beam Press Fit Pistons: Flat Top Hyper (10:1) Heads: Stock 882 76cc Chambers Standard size Valves (Will Upgrade to 64cc Aluminum Soon) Pushrods: Hardened Steel Valve Springs: .600 Lift Rated Rockers: 1.6:1 Rollers Is this Overkill? Will It Affect whether i use Pump Gas or Not?

The Engine has been assembled and installed. It Fired up the First time. The Timing and Valves only needed a Slight Adjustment. It sounds pretty good with the Old Glasspacks, but i'm gonna put some Flowmasters on there. Thankyou all for your help in this Project.

I found a Place that will Balance my Rotating assembly for $125. The Only problem is that it's 100 Miles away. It's not easy to find services like that in Mississippi. I asked about Knife edging my Crank and they told me that it wasn't a good idea with a Stock Crank. They said that they would have to add weight to it to compensate and i would be better off buying a High Performance Crankshaft that's already Knife Edged. I can live with that. I'm still waiting on the Rods to show up at my door, but it should be any day now.

The Block is Getting a new Bore To .060. The Old pistons did scar the Cylinders. The Previous Bore was .040. I'm not happy about Boring to .060 But it's all i have.

Well, that's just awesome. I don't have to buy another Carb. Thank you 280Zwitha383.

yes, i do have all of that. I did get a new Oil Pump assembly. I have all of the Required gaskets and I Have a Double Roller Timing set. I'm reusing my Old Water pump since that was new on the last engine when the previous owner Screwed up what was supposed to be a Rebuild (He used the Wrong Size Pistons and Rings). The Carb and Manifold were on the old engine, so they already have all the needed hardware. I will need spark Plugs, and i'll probably put a New Cap, Rotor, and Wires on the Engine. My Springs Came with Retainers and Locks. The Cam was a Kit that came with the Tappets. I have the Cam Bearings, but i Need to get the Main and Rod Bearings. I think i'll get another Thermostat, but i'm not sure what Temp Rating i should use. I live in Mississippi, So it gets pretty hot in the Summer. The Transmission already has a Shift Kit and it's own Cooler. The Engine that i'm using USED to be a Crate engine. It's a '72 and the Truck is a '86. The Original thing i was gonna do was Replace the Heads. It Smoked ALOT as you could imagine for having the Wrong Pistons and Rings. I thought it was the heads. When they came off, i saw that i was wrong. The Previous owner's Brother Told me that he was adjusting the Valves by cranking the Rockers down as far as they would go. He Said his Brother Ruined the Cam and Tappets and he had to help put in new ones so his brother wouldn't screw it up again. After i realized the Engine was going to be a Rebuild, a buddy of mine suggested to me that i should give it some performance while the engine is down. I agreed. That's how I came to be building this the way that i am. I'm a Rookie, like the last person that attempted to Rebuild it, but i think i'm Smarter. Does that sound Conceited?

I have determined my Build. I'm not going to stroke it. I do want this to be a Toy, but not so much of a Toy that i don't feel comfortable driving it more than 20 Miles at a time. When i say Toy, I mean Sounding Good and able to pull me and a Passenger back in our seat, but not really to race. In fact, i was planning on Driving it 200 Miles after i break it in to show it to my National Guard Buddies. I already have Everything i need to build it. I'm using a Single Profile Cam. I have some 882 Heads right now, but i figure that i can always change the Heads to Aluminum after Christmas since you don't have to remove the Engine for that. Someone mentioned earlier that i should Replace my 600 CFM Carb and get something Bigger. I agree with that, but again, that's something that i can do with the engine still in the Truck. Let me Go ahead and give you all an Updated list of what i have right now. Block: 4 Bolt Bored .060 Crank: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260040895784&rd=1,1 Rods:5.7" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230043272803&rd=1&rd=1 Cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D00016&N=700+400421+4294887637+4294908216+4294908395+4294887485+4294838372+4294840140+115&autoview=sku Pistons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320037708533&rd=1&rd=1 Rockers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190042322850&rd=1&rd=1 Springs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180039953446&rd=1&rd=1 Pushrods: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=290041584968&rd=1&rd=1 Heads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320025163839&rd=1&rd=1 Valve Covers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110044434461&rd=1&rd=1 Intake Manifold: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2101&N=700+4294925239+4294839079+400065+4294908216+115&autoview=sku Carb: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=EDL%2D1405&N=700+4294925239+4294839063+400065+115&autoview=sku I have all parts EXCEPT the Rods Currently. The Rods are on their way already also.

Are you saying that by Stroking a 350 i would have 383? I am planning on Running New Stock 5.7" Rods, a New Nodular Seel Crank and 10:1 Flat top Hyper Pistons. Not intending to Stroke the engine. As far as Tensile Strength, I can see where that would appy in relation to Connecting Rods, but not Pushrods. That's where i was also confused. I thought you were refering to Pushrods. I have Determined that i am Inept at Building anything other than stock. I sure hope this has a Happy ending. At the Very Least, I'll learn alot from this. I hope that it doesn't cost me too much to learn my lesson.

How do i balance the Rotating Assembly?

I can't Stroke it. I have the Wrong Pistons. Yes, I understand Tensile Strength. I didn't think about it in releation to Pushrods though. I guess if i make this a Hobby, Lucky me, I'm a Machinist in the National Guard.