synthtk
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Posts posted by synthtk
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I used a Lokar cable kit for my throttle cable. I had bought the normal Lokar carb kit cable which had the wrong end on it, so I had to machine a lock nub, but if you buy the Lokar LS1 cable it will have the nub already on the cable. The cable goes through the firewall and attaches to the pedal directly, I used two large washers on each side of the firewall so the locking nuts wouldnt pass through through. This setup (direct to pedal) seems more responsive than my old setup which used the stock linkage and then had a cable running to the throttle.
Here is a link to the Lokar 48" LS1 throttle cable on Summit, currently $62. They also offer the cable in a few other styles and lengths for different prices.
The attachment to the pedal was really simple, I just drilled a hole in the top of the pedal rod where it gets flat and then slipped the Lokar cable end around that and popped in the pin.
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I am also running the AEM EMS, its a pretty nice (yet kinda pricy) complete plug and play system, it has pretty good data logging and just about every feature you could want. I haven't had any issues with mine at all, everything just "worked" after loading the basemap. I originally started with the MAFs and then went MAP/Speed Density, I will be using a GM Boost Solinoid to have the EMS control boost shorty (currently a manual is in charge of that). I also have it setup to control the radiator fan which is kinda nice
There are also nice safety features such as knock control and o2 feedback adjustments, it also has a neat autotune feature if you have a wideband however a dyno tune is always recommended.One of the other things I will be doing with the EMS shortly is wiring in the "Boost Safe" output from the AEM Water/Meth injection kit I am running so if there is any error with the meth system it will retard the timing and/or open the wastegate all the way so it won't build boost.
I also think it is pretty easy to tune myself, a few hours on the dyno netted 467.11 whp on 91 octane w/ 50/50 meth mix at 6500rpm (anything above 6 the dyno lost rpm signal
) with a GT3582 HTA T4 and "low" boost of 24psi on a stock internals RB26.I know a lot of friends prefer the cost and DIY factor of a megasquirt + a extension harness to make it PnP or just going to a Motec.
Is this going on your race car or do you have another RB project in the works?
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Very nice looking swap, keep up the good work.
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Thanks it has been alot of work. the oil pickup is external it goes to the oil pump
Do you have any shots of the pickup inside of the pan? I am running external on mine witha sheet metal pan but I hate how I did the baffling... so just curious what other people are doing.
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If it revs and runs fine cold yet after it warms up it runs poorly its probably because its kicking into closed loop and without the o2 sensors it cannot properly meter the fuel/ignition etc... normally most ECU's wont click to closed unless they have varying o2 voltage but who knows with the RB ecu... we are talling about pre OBDII days here... If you have a consult/blaZt or something you could easily see whats going on. Its pretty handy if you are going to be running a stock ECU for awhile. I have my old blaZt in my closet if you are interested in buying it, I used it for about a week to diagnose startup issues on my swap and then went with an AEM EMS.
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Its kinda hard to tell what is going on from the video but here it goes...
Is that it just idling after warmup or are you having to blip the throttle to keep it running?
Are you getting spark and fuel to all cyls? You may want to check your timing as well as your throttle linkage to make sure the idle contact switch is being hit when the throttle plate is closed. Are your o2 sensors hooked up and good?
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It kind of depends on your timing light, if you have an old school light you will end up having to use a spring (it may have a technical name) that will go on top of the spark plug for Cyl1 and then go into the coil, then you clip your lead around that spring. More modern timing lights can pick up the signal from single pin connector by the firewall (it will have a black cap on it) or just being looped around the wires going to #1 coil. You then adjust the CAS to set the timing... I forget if you need to ground anything out like you need to on some other cars to do the timing correctly... but its all detailed in the FSM.
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Congrats, nice looking build!
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Thanks for putting that up!
You should add your site to the stickied links thread.
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You can route Greddy BOVs back in, that will help the driveability.
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If the length of the Z or Skyline driveshaft is correct to fit up to the diff (my R34 skyline driveshaft was the correct length) all you need to do is have the rear flange swapped out for the flange that fits an R200, a drive shaft shop can do this for you, If needed they can also lengthen or shorten the drive shaft or just build a whole new one if yours are in bad shape. There is no bolt in driveshaft from another car that will just work.
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If you want the car to run the best you should recirculate the BOV if you are running MAFs. Lateron if you switch to a blow through MAF or convert to MAP you can vent without issues.
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I don't know of anyone here using a VPC. The hardest part you will likely run into when doing a VPC is finding the chip and the harness. VPCs these days seem pretty scarce to begin. The largest community that I know of for VPC users is the DSM world, even there its hard to find one these days as most people have moved onto other piggybacks, flashes or full standalones.
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The car looks amazing, super clean!
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Mine was a gready. i had to modify the wastegate pipe to fit as most of them will need.
I also have a china bay manifold that dosn't fit. the front 3 flange is an 1/8 inch off. if any wants it you pay shipping it's yours.
You have a PM
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thanks brother, I'm in the search of a plate that allow the stock oil presure sensor, but not luck...
The sender is standard 1/8 NPT, just get head down to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some T's and whatnot if you need to move the sender or add the stock Z sendor along with the RB one, or just pull the RB one and use the Z one, the RB ECU does not read the oil pressure.
If you want to change the filter housing and still keep the sender just find one that has a 1/8 NPT port or get a AN adapter with a 1/8 NPT port and put it on one of the lines for the relocation.
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I must have lucked out on my harness then... I just plugged the generic 30amps right into both slots without any issue.
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These are the two I have. I haven't had a chance to remove my twin set up yet so I can test fit one of these...
T3 LoveFab
T4 divided, Japan sourced
They both have universal 25,26 flange
Which one do you think you will end up using? What were their prices if you don't mind me asking and are you going to sell your twins?
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So I have done some searching around here and not been having a lot success... maybe I just such at searching the forum. But what do we have as a confirmed fit for a T4 manifold (divided preferred) that fits a RB26 in a S30?
If I recall Stony ran a log manifold from either HKS or Greddy, and that some custom manifolds have been made, possibly a 6boost or a LoveFab that *should* fit. Joel didn't you recently pick up a few single manifolds? Do any fit?
Known not to fit is most of the ChinaBay manifolds.
Anyone here running a T4? If so which manifold are you running and which turbo are you running with it?
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That much spring and cam lift with the stock valves and you're going to find out the meaning of expensive pain.
Matt, how do you think the stock valves would handle the Tomei 280/11.5 cams with only revving to 7500 or so?
The cams are a bit bigger than I originally wanted but they were a really good deal so I picked them up. I am planning on doing an RB30 swap so will not be revving very high and know I need to get the solid lifters due to the smaller base circle of the cam and at least the Tomei B-Spec springs according to a local Tomei rep. Can you still get pretty good pricing on the Tomei stuff?
Thanks
-Chris
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Always love to hear what you are doing with your car. Looks great!
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So... I may have missed this in the previous threads but does anyone have part numbers for the different pistons available for the RB30/26 swap? I am looking for about 9:1 CR and know that CP and Arias apparently make pistons for this based on the offerings that SPOOL has. Obviously Wiseco has an option but with questionable results and I have seen MAHLE pistons for the swap on eBay also... but the dish descriptions and CR results all seem to conflict...
RIPSNZ what do you guys use? Heck can I buy them from you along with a collar & belt? I have had a RB30 block and a set of your rods (well they are supposed to be your rods) in my garage for sometime now and would love to see this project going again...
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Has anyone seen these guys?
http://www.supertechperformance.com/
They make valve train parts for the RB26. Dual coil spring setups. SS valves with nitride coatings.
I'm still kinda leaning towards Ti valves with Bery ring copper seats, but I'm not sure... I want the best in valve train lightness.
Their sales reps seem very knowledgeable from when I talked with them last and I have heard their product is very good. I know my buddy that is into Honda's has heard of them and knows a bunch of people using their product. I am highly considering going with them but still trying to decide which of their spring sets to get and if I want to go with their lifters or stick with all Tomei parts... price wise the definitely have the advantage.
I've installed the Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers in my RB26 but it's still months away from starting for the first time. They're priced right and seem to have a good product.Which springs did you go with? Are you using aftermarket lifters also? I have considered going with Supertech for springs and possibly lifters for my Tomei 280°/11.5mm cams.
There are also nice safety features such as knock control and o2 feedback adjustments, it also has a neat autotune feature if you have a wideband however a dyno tune is always recommended.
) with a GT3582 HTA T4 and "low" boost of 24psi on a stock internals RB26.
Same side inlet & outlet end tank radiator
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I run the same radiator, it works great and is not expensive at all (under $200 when I got mine). Its a GM Double Pass 24"x19" Part No: 2111100 from PRC Racing. The only thing you will have to do is fab up some brackets to mount the radiator.
Here are some pics I took of the radiator when I got it that show the various measurements.
Here are some pics of the actual install, I also mounted a Moroso recovery tank onto the radiator.