synthtk

Found the old thread

That is the VSS, should clear fine.

Also interested in the price of the pan, and possibly bracket. Already have a 4 stage pump and other pieces, just have been hunting for a pan.

I had a Forced Performance GT3582 HTA on my 2.6 in a full T4 1.0 A/R housing and never had spool issues with it... I will run it on my RB30 (whenever I get it back...that is) and am thinking it will spool too fast. I wouldn't get the .82, .63 seems way too small for such a big motor.

Well I can't get my old laptops drive to recognize so no way to pull off the old map until I get the EMS hooked up again. If I recall there is no anti-lag section in the series 1 ems its part of the rev-limiter setup. I had anti-lag and no lift shift setup on my EMS.

I don't really know anyone that would do something like that unfortunately. Do you have a list of what needs to be done? I could ask my friend if he knows anyone. Sounds good. Just let me know when you will be in SD next and we can try to work something out.

What kind of machine work do you need? For what kind of motor?

Figured I would post up a few pics of the other projects: 98 240sx SE w/ CA LEGAL LS1/T56 Swap: 09 Factory Five GTM w/ LS2:

Guess you can't edit posts that are older than a certain amount of time? That is a bummer. Some pictures of the parts in the first post, like the dry sump pump, tank and gears. [pics] 8/19/2011 Went to my friends shop to start the short block assembly. Didn't really get too far as I was working on my S14 LS1 AC system a bit at the same time. Also checking clearances on the rings and bearings is quite time consuming. [more] 9/10/2011 Went to my friends shop to work on the short block more. Hung the pistons on the rods and started to install the pistons. I was doing the assembly by myself which in hind sight I should have asked for some assistance because trying to tap in the piston while holding the ring compressor flat against the deck didn't go so well. While taping them in the edge of the compressor must have lifted off of the surface and the very very thin oil control ring popped up and proceded to fold up the edge of the piston and ended up scratching the freshly honed bore. So, it was now time to pull out the pistons I had in there out, the crank, head studs, bearings, etc and send it back to the machine shop to be checked. [more] On a side note was able to see more progress of the cage and take some pics. Overall I am happy with how it is coming out, but my friend and I both wish I would have just bought raw material and have him bend up the pipes rather than buying a "kit" as it fits very loose. I already had a custom main hoop made since the kit hoop was inset about 2-3" on each side. [more] 1/28/2011 Heard from my friend that the machine shop finally got a chance to check out the block and he thinks he can just hone out the scratch, previously he was worried it would be too deep and he would have to replace the sleeve (sadly a cheaper and easier option than doing an overbore and getting new pistons).

My tuning computer is dead, so I will have to pull the drive and try to pull it off that way, will do that in the next few days. How GTZ described it is pretty much what I did from what I can recall (car has been dead so long its hard to remember, haha).

Quick update: RB30 project isn't dead, just had a slight mishap assembling the block so the RB30 had to go back to the machine shop, will update the main post later tonight or tomorrow. I also have had been distracted with getting my 240sx/LS1 swap legalized and picked up a Factory Five GTM supercar kit half completed so have been working on that.

I was using anti-lag in my setup, I will see if I can dig out my map and send it to you. I forget what I had set to make it work. Made a *huge* difference in my launches.

The blow-by from the melted piston blew off the PCV hose I had on the valve cover, which then started spraying oil all over the turbo and downpipe. I didn't even notice the fire at first I was more concerned why 2/3 down the track it went pop, got all squirrelly (probably from dumping oil and then going over it on the slicks) and lost power... as I was coasting down the return later people started to yell fire and then noticed small wisps of smoke coming out of the hood and wheel wells, thankfully I had an extinguisher. The fire damage actually is pretty minimal, most of the hoses and wiring in that area were wrapped in heat wrap, a few wires got a bit crispy but everything still works. Side note, it was the fastest run I did that day I did a 10.8@low 100s (will have to look at the timeslip when I get home) Also needless to say I will be securing those hoses better this time around haha.

I have had little to no problems with the AEM, I have been running it for a few years. The new Series2 EMSs are even nicer. I got the PnP EMS for the Skyline and it plugged right into the stock harness. At first I got it up and running on the MAFs setup then switched to MAP and then started weeding out most of the harness that I didn't need. The base map was surprisingly good for getting the car running. If I had to do it all over again and had a bit more dispensable income some of my tuner friends would insist I got a Motec... but they can be quite spendy. 8/15/11 Nothing on the block so far, just went to Napa to pick up 6 7/8" freeze plugs for the water channel right along the top of the block. They should be 22mm but it seems all but impossible to find a set of brass 22mm freeze plugs, hopefully the 7/8" ones will work fine. For anyone wondering you also need 12 30mm freeze plugs for RB blocks. I have never seen so many freeze plugs on a block before... In other news, I should be working on the block Friday so will have pics/updates this weekend. I will also take some pictures of the chassis, it is getting a 10pt cage installed currently. I also added a bunch of pictures to my Picasa site, including these fun ones showing the damage done to the RB26 (note these were taken after I hosed off all of the fire extenquisher mess). [pics of damage] but here is a fun one shot shortly after the fire

Beautiful car! Great job!

Nice numbers! You can make a bit more power by revving the engine out more, but it will probably start to fall off around 7500-7600 regardless. That is what my stock longblock RB26 seemed to do. Also turn up the boost more, at 28psi I was making 518hp/425tq with a pretty nice tq curve on CA 91 octane w/ 50/50 methanol/water mix. This was done with a FP GT3582 HTA T4 1.0 A/R

It has been a long time since I have posted up on here but figured this would probably be of interest. After many years, a few twisted rear ends, a blown RB26 and ultimately lots of time saving my pennies to acquire parts I am finally assembling my RB30/RB26 engine. I will list part numbers where I can in case anyone is curious. 4/20/2008 I picked up the RB30 Series2 Turbo short block from a friend of a fellow HybridZ member (I forget who, I am sorry) back in April of 2008. [more] 5/11/08 And shortly after I picked up a set of RB30 forged rods. [more] 5/30/10 And then both just sat in my garage for a long while since my RB26 was still running fine, but then Memorial Day 2010 I was up drag racing @ Fontana, CA something went wrong (very wrong) and I ended up melting a piston, breaking a few valve guides, damaging the quench pads, setting the engine on fire... etc. [more] ??/??/11 After this happened I considered just rebuilding the RB26 (stock rebuild or forged I wasn't sure) since it would be considerably cheaper than getting the RB30 block built, but eventually decided to just go ahead and do the RB30 since it was just sitting there collecting dust and would make the car more unique in the end. So off everything went to the machine shop with a few goodies I had been collecting throughout the years. Specs The head: -Manley 1mm over-sized intake valves (11164-12) -Manley springs/ Ti retainers/ locks (26175K) -Supertech Bronze valve guides (GDE-NSR6-I in, GDE-NSR7-ET ex) -Tomei Solid Lifters (163005) -Tomei ProCam 280/11.5mm cams (1421280115 in, 422280115 ex) [pics] -Tomei Cam Gears (152009 in, 152010 ex) -Machined to accommodate the large cams -Cometic RB26 87mm 1mm MLS head gasket (C4320-040) The block: -Decked -Bored .020" over -Crank collar installed on crank -CP 9.0:1 Compression Pistons / Rings (RB30/RB26-020-9.0) -Forged mystery rods w/ ARP-2000 bolts [pics] -ACL Race Main/Rod Bearings (7M2394H-STD main, 6B2390H-STD rod) -Dual Tensioner setup -Gates PowerGrip 1" x 47 7/8" 152 Teeth Timing Belt (T291) -ARP RB25 Head studs (202-4301) -ATI Super Damper (916065 RB Hub, 917020 7" 2-ring Damper, 916744 RB Water Pump Pulley, 950200 Bolt kit, 916631 Dry Sump Mandrel) [pics] -Nissan N1 Water Pump -Dry sumped Dry Sump: -NRC 4 Stage Dry Sump Pump (10545-A) -Peterson 34 Tooth HTD Pulley -18 Tooth HTD Crank -Patterson 3 Gallon Dry Sump Tank (TP-3) -Dry Sump Belt TBD -Custom Bracket TBD -Custom Pan TBD -Custom Lines TBD -Nissan N1 Oil Pump (Modified to remove gears) 8/11/11 Currently the head is fully assembled but the block is bare (I just painted it on Tuesday after picking it up) so I will post assembly, dry sump, and installation progress as things go on.

You should be fine with just a check valve, I ended up using one off of a LS1 and it pops right into the brake booster.

I think I run 7qts in my Thargard pan... its been awhile though.

I don't have any pics of the broken guides, I discovered it right as I was about to take it to a machine shop and forgot to snap a pic. One of these days I will get the pictures of the damage to the quench pads and my piston though.

Bummer, I have heard about that happening... but *knock on wood* my S1 is still kicking after a few years.

Haha... yeah.. oh well gave me an excuse to finally build my RB30

On a side note... while I for sure detonated I also did find broken valve guides in my head that had similar damage to the quench pads.