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Everything posted by zcarnut

  1. The clearance issue is also a function of what connecting rods you will be using. The 9mm connecting rods will have less clearance to the block than the 8mm rods.
  2. Wrong. Sealing around the mounting base helps prevent any possible air leaks due to the loose fitting push rod seal. That’s why Nissan sealed it up. I just use clear RTV silicone sealer.
  3. Yes, that will work. But, it’s not a foolproof solution. Even when you do that the interlock relay is being controlled by the interlock unit and still subject to possible nuisance “no-start†issues. The preferred method is the technique described in post #8 which is what Nissan recommended in a TSB, which was copied in the "How To Restore" book. This method shorts out the interlock relay so that the relay and the interlock control unit are no longer part of the starter circuit.
  4. Yes. Red push button switch = emergency (reset) switch.
  5. To disable the 260Z interlock see this recent thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151366
  6. I had a master cylinder with an interference issue on a S30 and I simply removed the bleeder screws and welded up the screw holes. As long as you bench bleed the master before installation the side bleeders are not necessary. 95% of all the newer master cylinders lack bleeders. Even Nissan stopped using them in the late 1980’s to early 1990’s time period.
  7. It appears that the bleeders swapped sides when Nissan switched from the vertical mounting master to the horizontal mounting one in 1983.
  8. There is more than one way to defeat the interlock system on the 260Z. Here’s one: Unplug the two six-pin connectors going to the interlock module. The interlock module is located behind the relay bracket above the passenger side kick panel. You must keep the interlock relay (located next to the plastic-covered fused links on the engine firewall) plugged into its harness. You can unplug and remove the emergency re-set switch, if you want to. The re-set switch is located on the right side of the engine compartment and has the red push-button on it.
  9. Growing up in his heyday my father would allow the family to watch only Walter at the evening news times. The only time he mentioned a celebrity was to report that they had died. Modern TV journalists should heed his (paraphrased) words: “Tell the people what they need to know, not what they want to know.â€
  10. I have re-built three pairs of these early calipers and I do not recall any plastic pieces in the assembly. The parts marked #11 and #12 in the below Nissan parts diagram were metal.
  11. I agree, the asking price is on the high side. I have bought three Maxima diesel engines over the last few years (just to get the crank) and I never paid more than $250 for one. I even got one for $100 that had a cracked head and the junkyard sold it ‘as isâ€, the crankshaft was fine.
  12. No, I did not. Read the factory service manual. The 1982-83 280ZX has the idle speed adjustment in a different location than the earlier 280ZX’s:
  13. The idle speed adjustment is the screw shown in the center of Pic #2.
  14. The 1973-78 brake boosters used in the S30 coupes will interchange. I do not know why most of the aftermarket catalogs fail to acknowledge this. Black Dragon Auto lists a re-man unit (part number 64-161-2) for $150 with core.
  15. Yeah, but why would the throttle mechanism be any different? I‘ve got a box of various 240SX and Hardbody throttle bodies and the throttle opener parts are very similar, if not the same. The big difference is whether or not you have cruise control cable parts.
  16. I took this series of photos I took when I disassembled one. I apologize for the poor quality of some of the pics (Note: I still need to add two pictures to the album): http://forums.hybridz.org/album.php?albumid=135
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