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Everything posted by zcarnut

  1. I think you have a bigger problem... The 1982-83 master cylinder will not fit onto your S30 stock brake booster.
  2. The RockAuto deal is "Return and Rebuild" only. You send your master cylinder in to be rebuilt and hopefully they can restore it. I say "hopefully" because aluminum master cylinders that are pitted internally cannot be honed to remove the pitting. The only fix is to have them re-sleeved ($$).
  3. I meant that four new holes would have to be drilled. And its not just the firewall that needs to be re-drilled. The pedal support bracket must also be drilled.
  4. No. The power steering rack mounting "ears" have a different spacing than the manual rack. Hence, the 280ZX had different (three, total) crossmembers.
  5. Polarity does not matter on the two-wire idle control valves. The control plunger is attracted to the magnetic field regardless of its polarity.
  6. Will you try to re-use your stock compressor? The S30 ac compressors have an oil sump so the compressor must be installed in the lowest point in the refrigeration system. So, you may have to mount the compressor where your alternator is now, and move the alternator up above it. The later Nissans like the 280ZX and the 1977-84 810/Maxima’s used a “sump-less†compressor. These could be mounted above your alternator. Then again, maybe it’s time to look at using an aftermarket R134a compressor, since you are making a new mount. The 1977-80 810 uses a condenser that has both inlet and outlet fittings on the same side. Using this condenser would make plumbing the ac lines easier.
  7. This used to be in the "uploads" section. Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf
  8. Maxima 110A alternator Here is the Maxima 110 amp (LR1110) alternator that I am using shown on an engine during a pre-assembly mock up. As others have mentioned, you must replace the serpentine belt pulley with a v-grove pulley that has been positioned in the correct location with a suitable thickness spacer (washer). Since this alternator is so large, the stock S30 alternator bracket would not fit around it so I used a 240Z smog pump bracket (along with another non-descript bracket visible in the picture) to secure the alternator. I did not trust the S30 lower alternator mounting arrangement for the heavier Maxima alternator, so I drilled through the S30 lower alternator mount and used a long 8mm diameter bolt. Lastly, I used the Maxima wiring harness to connect the alternator to my 260Z’s electrical circuits.
  9. Welcome! I grew up in Johnson City. Back in the 1970’s we would cruise Center Street in Kingsport in our Z cars on the weekends. I recall seeing my first V8 Z car there. Good memories…
  10. Check with Jim Frederick who lives in Florida. His e-mail address can be found in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40701
  11. The Z31 blower fan is a little more (10 to 15%) powerful than the 280ZX (S130) fan. You could try it. I think the outside diameter of the Z31 blade assembly (plastic squirrel cage) is a little larger so check your clearances. I am using the 280ZX (S130) blower fan in my 260Z (S30). Yes, the 280ZX fan turns in the opposite direction of the S30 blower fan, but because it’s a permanent magnet DC motor all you have to do is to reverse the power leads and it will rotate in the opposite direction.
  12. Check out the 1981-84 Maxima column (see pic below). It has the same spline diameter as the S30 shafts. I once saw a 240Z with a Z31 (tilt) column installation at a car show. But since the Z31 has a larger spline diameter there must has been an adapter in between the S30 rack and the end of the Z31 column.
  13. They're the same. Both are part number 39617-A0600.
  14. You are quite correct about the S30 rear bearings being SAE sized and not metric. I apologize for my comment. I have bored out a rear S30 strut housing to 72mm so I could use the Z31 (five bolt) stub axle. Five years later it’s still OK (no cracks). I did use the 280Z rear strut housing because Nissan strengthened the 280Z housing by adding a little more material in the bearing location area.
  15. Basically, the 280ZX stub axle has a different OD (outside diameter) where the inner and outer wheel bearings are seated, so it uses different wheel bearing than the S30. The OD of the 280ZX rear wheel bearings will not fit the S30 rear strut. In other words, the 280ZX stub axles will not fit. No, that’s nonsense. Both vehicles use metric bearings at the rear. However, the front wheel bearings of both the S30, S130 and even the Z31 are the same as used by many 1970's domestic and foreign vehicles. But I would call them “SAE sized†and not “inch†dimensioned.
  16. The part numbers are listed in Pete Paraska's conversion article at http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm bolt 39606-W1202 nut 01223-00041 washer 08915-13810
  17. The bolts are special. They are shoulder bolts with nylon lock nuts. Do not sub! BTW, the easiest way to tell the difference between the 280ZX turbo axle and the Z31 non-turbo axle is the height difference of the dimple on the grease shield.
  18. R180 from the 4x4 Nissan 720 truck?
  19. A One Inch Diameter Brake Master Cylinder for the S30 Z Cars With the availability of the 280ZX 15/16 inch diameter master cylinder becoming limited there is now another option for a larger diameter master cylinder for the 1970-78 (S30) Z cars. Wilwood, long known for their automotive racing products, now makes a one inch diameter master cylinder that is almost a “bolt-onâ€, requiring only two minor modifications. Why use a larger [one inch] diameter master cylinder? The diameter of the brake master cylinder is determined primarily by the amount of fluid displacement that is required to move the caliper pistons against the brake pads so they contact the rotor surface. Other minor factors, such as the brake pedal lever ratio and the brake booster size, may be considered as well. The diameter of the stock master cylinder on the 1970-78 Z cars is 7/8 inch. When Nissan introduced the 280XZ in 1979 they changed the brake system by going to disc brakes at the rear and added a vented rotor up front along with a floating caliper. The rear calipers and the new front calipers required more fluid and hence Nissan increased the diameter of the 280ZX master cylinder to 15/16 inch. Brake modifications to the 1970-78 Z cars typically involve changing the rear brakes from drums to discs with calipers replacing the rear wheel cylinders. The front calipers are changed from the stock two-piston to a four (or six) piston one with increased piston area. Both of these changes require more fluid from the master cylinder and the change to a larger diameter master cylinder is always recommended as part of the brake upgrade. The 280ZX 15/16 inch diameter master cylinder is typically used for the S30 brake upgrade, but as the supply of good used 280ZX master cylinders becomes scarce and the cost of NOS ones quickly increasing, going to an aftermarket one inch diameter master cylinder is a viable option. However, a larger diameter master cylinder will require more pedal force to build the same fluid pressure. Nissan used a larger diameter brake booster on the 280ZX to reduce the pedal force of the 15/16 inch diameter master cylinder. The Wilwood one inch master cylinder The Wilwood one inch diameter master cylinder which will work on the S30 Z cars is Wilwood part number 260-8794. There is also a 260-7563 part number which is the one inch diameter master cylinder but with remote reservoirs. The remote reservoir kit makes the 260-7563 slightly more expensive than the 260-8794. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8794 http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds439.pdf The Wilwood one inch diameter master cylinder is available from Jegs, Summit, StreetPerformance.com, and probably others. Modifications needed The Wilwood one inch master is a “vertical mount†type and although it initially appears to fit the S30 brake boosters as is, you have to do a modification to it first. The center-to-center spacing on the S30 booster mounting studs (for the master cylinder) is 60mm whereas the bolt hole spacing on the Wilwood one inch master mounting holes is 57.2mm (2.25 inches). So, you will have to elongate (slot) the mounting holes on the Wilwood master with an end mill or a file. You could also drill out the mounting bolt holes (on the Wilwood master) to the next larger drill size. The second modification allows the Wilwood one inch master to connect with the S30 brake lines. The Wilwood one inch master cylinder outlets are designed to be used with standard 3/16 inch SAE double flare brake line fittings which have 3/8-24 threads. However, you need 10mm x 1.0mm female metric threads to interface with the stock Nissan double flared brake lines. Fortunately the SAE threaded outlet fittings on the bottom of the Wilwood master cylinder can be unscrewed and replaced with the Nissan metric ones off your old stock master cylinder. However, this only applies if you have a 1972-78 stock master cylinder as your donor. The outlet fittings of the 1970-71 stock master cylinders are different and will not fit the Wilwood master. This also applies to most the aftermarket (i.e., the non-Nabco/Tokico ones) S30 master cylinders. The stock outlet fittings on the bottom of the Nissan master cylinder are part number 46038-B5012 which is still available from Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/cylinder-p-p-362085.html Note: Tighten the outlet fittings on to the bottom of the Wilwood master cylinder with 156 in-lbs of torque. If you cannot locate suitable metric outlet fittings, then you can resort to cutting the metric fittings off your stock brake lines, installing 3/8-24 fittings, and re-flaring the ends of the lines. No manufacturer (that I am aware of) makes a single-piece 10mm x 1.0mm to 3/8x24 UNF brake line adapter. Residual pressure check valves According to the Wilwood 260-8794/260-7563 instruction sheet, the Wilwood one inch master cylinder contains internal residual pressure valves (for drum brake use only) which should be removed and not used in disc brake applications. Adjusting the booster pushrod The push rod projects from the front of the brake booster and activates the master cylinder pistons. The push rod length is adjustable and the push rod to master cylinder piston clearance (gap) should be checked any time the master cylinder or booster is replaced. Problems can occur if the push rod is improperly adjusted. If the gap is too small (or non-existent) then the master cylinder piston will not return completely when you let off the brake pedal and there will be pressure remaining in the lines which will result in brake drag and premature pad wear. If the gap is too large then there will be a slight time delay in brake actuation, increased pedal travel and reduced pedal travel reserve distance. The preferred push rod adjustment procedure is to use a special tool or gauge to determine the gap. However, if such a suitable tool is not available then an alternate method can be used (see the accompanying pictures). Using a vernier caliper, measure the distance between the rim of the master cylinder bore to the mounting flange surface on the master cylinder (measurement “Aâ€). Measure the distance between the bottom of master cylinder primary piston to the top of the rim of the master cylinder bore (measurement “Bâ€). Subtract A from B to obtain the depth of the master cylinder primary piston to the mounting flange surface (measurement “Câ€). On the booster place a precision straight edge across the face of the master cylinder mounting surface adjacent to the push rod. Measure from the top of the straight edge to the top of the push rod (measurement “Dâ€). Measure the width of the straight edge (measurement “Eâ€). Subtract D from E to obtain the height of the push rod (measurement “Fâ€). The push rod clearance (or gap) is determined by subtracting F from C. Adjust the push rod to obtain 0.3mm (+/- 0.2mm) of clearance. Warning: When adjusting the push rod length avoid pulling the push rod out of the booster to prevent the reaction disc from falling down into the booster. The best way to prevent this is to place the booster facing up when adjusting the push rod length. If that is not possible (i.e., booster is bolted to firewall) then apply moderate pressure on the push rod in a direction towards the booster during the adjustment which will keep the reaction disc from moving. Appendix/Addendum * The stock Nissan reservoir caps will fit on the Wilwood reservoirs. Likewise, the Wilwood reservoirs appear to be identical to the Nissan stock ones so that they will even fit the stock master cylinder. The Wilwood part number for the reservoir is 260-3386. * The Wilwood master cylinder has o-ring sealing where the reservoir mounts, a nice improvement over the stock master. * Use silicone sealant to seal the base of the master cylinder to booster as it should be an air tight seal. * Tightening torque for brake line fittings. As a general rule tighten the nut finger-tight until you feel it draw down tight, then tighten with a brake flare wrench approximately 1/6 to ¼ turn more. Do not over-tighten. * A nice explanation on the importance of the booster pushrod adjustment can be found here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html
  20. If you don't mind I would like to post my pics and a procedure for modifying the Wilwood one inch master today. I was going to put it in the Brake section.
  21. Because the standard method to compress the valve springs on the Nissan L-head is to use a spring compressor such as KD3087 that hooks around the camshaft and uses it as a lever. A procedure is shown here: http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/seals.html I prefer to use compressed air to hold the valves closed. It’s quicker than messing with the rope method.
  22. Why are you trying to remove the cam sprocket bolt? You can change the valve seals without having to remove the bolt. ???
  23. I've used the Lokar cables: http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebrake-cables-conn-cables/ebrake-cable-pgs/ebrake-cables.html These can be cut to the length you need. They also are available with a black covering if you prefer a stock look. Expensive, but it's a quality part.
  24. I do not think it the Z31 distributor can be modified. Everyone just uses the 280ZXT (that’s the turbo version) distributor and its shaft. However, I’ll warn you, the 280ZXT distributor/shaft is not that easy to locate. They do occasionally show up on FleaBay. Yes, that will work.
  25. I installed a non-turbo 1987 Z31 ECU with its mass flow sensor to replace the AFM and stock ECU in my 1979 810 which uses the same FI injection as the 280Z/ZX. This was a few years ago, so the details are foggy. I used the Z31 fuel injection wiring harness which was modified to fit. I also used the 280ZXT distributor (and the 280ZXT distributor-oil pump drive shaft) with the Z31 trigger (sensor) wheel. I also used the Z31 O2 sensor by welding a bung (that was drilled and tapped) on the header collector pipe. I did not wish to rewire the fuel pump to use the Z31 ECU directly, so I came up with an interface circuit using a relay between the ECU and the fuel pump. One Z31 ECU function I did not retain was the MAF hot-wire “burn-off†(cleaning) procedure because you need to use the Z31 speed sensor to get this to work. BTW, I thought the procedure (sticky) written up by Afshin (for using the turbo Z31 ECU) was pretty informative and helped get me started on this project: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=26230
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