Big Kahuna

where are the old post?

For what it is worth! I got a chance to see Miller reps at a airshow last month and they let me play with their stuff. The Miller 135 or 175 are sweet setups for a small garage shops. I can't imagine anything that I would need anything more. And the cost savings from the tig I can send out non migable stuff to proff. welder. They had some refurb hobart 135s for two ninety on show special. wish I had grabbed one. The Miller rep told me that the Hobart 135 is the same as the miller 135 with the exception of plastic parts vs millers aluminum parts. They are the same company, one just gets cadilac status and the other chevy. That being said. I am buying a lincoln sp135. I have used the hobart, the miller and the lincoln. As far as I can tell, it all comes down to what color you like. I like red!!!!!

I was looking at one of those today. How does it fit? or where are you going to fit it? I test fit it up to a 73 240 in the yard and didn't see any easy way to make it fit.

wonder how many emails the guy has gotten now! thinking about sending him one to pull his chain.

Got the brakes working again. Had to go back with the original master. Not sure why but my booster would not work with the 15/16 280zx MC. Tried every thing including the bolt trick to lengthen pushrod. The booster pushrod was too short. Maybe I missed something but I could not get full travel in the master. I went to the manual as well as victoria british catalog and found that apparently there is a difference in boosters on early Z's(mine is a 71). If that differance effects this swap, Not sure! But after a weeks worth of trial and error, I'm guessing so. I have not given up though, after the turbo swap, I'm going to try again with a different booster.

I think I have narrowed it down to the Master. I am going to go get another one, this time rebuilt. What is the apropriate way to adjust the booster push rod into the Master Cylinder?

getting good fluid to the calipers.

I have finally found the time to get my 240z back on the road. One dilema though. Yes, I search the archieves! I did new lines, toyota and 240sx calipers, and difffential valve. Everything appears to be right on the money except the master cylinder. I'm am not sure if I got the booster rod adjustment right. the manual does a poor job of explaining this. Can someone enlighten me. The m/c was used, is there way of determining if it is bad? or maybe the booster? Is the booster different on the zx vs z? I bench bled the MC prior to install, bled it again in the car, No air. Bled the calipers, No air. Yet pedel preasure is still weak. I am ready to give up and send it to a brake shop!

What is the differance????

Thanks guys. I am just finishing up the full brake conversion on all four corners. Toyota in the front 240sx in the back with the zx Master cylinder. I have crossed ove the Ebrake lines and have hooked them up with Ross's adaptor. What concerns me is the the slop in the Ebrake cable sleeve between the caliber and the hanging spring. I was just curious to how others have done it. I deciced to mount the adj. proportioning valve. I just have an itch to drive this thing. It rolled into the garage a year and half ago to get bushings, sway bars, springs,LSD,ball joints, steering rack, struts, and brake upgrades. Rear brake pumbing and ebrake is all that is left.

Before we start, I have a 71 240Z. 1)What would happen if I did not put in the adjustable proportioning valve and ran the system on stock lines? Does the 280zx MC remedy the problem? Or should I just bite the bullet and plumb in the adjustable proportioning valve? Is really necesary to remove the factory valve above the diff?? 2) Does anyone have a clue how to support Ebrake cable? I have the cable hooked up at the caliper but the cable is loose and just hanging there. do I need to make a bracket to hold it off the strut tube?

Talk her into pigme horses. At least it will cut the food cost down! Horses do hurt any hobby but they also keep your wife busy !

Wrapping up my brake conversion and need some brake lines for the front and rear. Did the toyota 4x4 thing in the front and 240sx thing iin the back. Any I deas?

thanks , I'll try that number today.

I would have used mine, but had my block machined and now need some pistons that are 40 over. oops! I guess I should have waited till I had the pistons in my grubby hands.

I am actually looking for stock ones. Everyone seems to have them on back order.

Need some pistons for my L28 turbo build. Does anyone have any ideas where I might find some. I have exhausted the normal Z outlets. Will non turbo dished pistons work? is there a differance in the two?

I need one of these and am having no luck finding any! I think I will now have to build my own. does anyone have any specs or opinions on building a turbo downpipe for a 240z? Any ideas on cost too?

All this talk about downpipes has got me confused. Why is there a need for a new downpipe. Does the ZXT factory downpipe work on the early generation cars? I am looking at my 83ZXT motor on the stand with the downpipe still on, and wondering why it will not work. Could someone who has done the early Z turbo conversion chime in here? do I have to get a downpipe made?

Thanks guys. I'll try the shot gun cleaner. unfortunatly i have to wait for some new pins.

Thanks guys, If I knew it would be harder getting them in I may have reconsidered the task. Oh well!!! it was a case of while I'm at it!! After I get my new pins I'll try cleaning the bore better. Does anyone know where I can get a pipe cleaner that might do the trick?

Ok Ive done the search and all I see is removal tips. I am at a loss with putting these stupid things in. I have now two full days trying to get them in with that lock pin in place. I have trashed both the new spindle pin and lock pin through all my trial and error. First, they do not slide in as advertised. second, the lock pins do not slide in. How do you get the spindle pins in with ease and line up for lock pins? Any tips before I trash some more spindle pins and lock pins. Haynes manuals suck and I am thinking about hosting a haynes manual burning!!!!

Is the 240sx case the same as the early R200 case??????? what is the difference????

For what it is worth, I just bought a Compressor from Harbor Freight. It is a new one they just started carring from Chicago Pneumatic. So far it is great and runs all my tools without much strain. It is just as loud as any thing else, all compressors are annoying in my mind. My board sander works good, which is my highest strain tool and used to not work at all on my last compressor. I have been using a Cambell Hausfield nailing comressor since my 20 year old craftsman got ripped off. I was going to buy another craftsman until I saw this deal. I could not resist the price at 149 bucks. 4 1/2 horsepower oiled, with a 29 gallon upright tank. I think it is something like 7cfm @ 90psi, but I could be wrong. As for the oiled vs non oiled thing, I have no clue. My neighbor, a hot rod builder, swears that oiled is the only way to go. Seemed like good advise since his compressor is going on twenty something years.

thanks you know 5 out of 3 mechanics are dyslexic!