Robzzzz
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Posts posted by Robzzzz
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If I cant find anyone who wants to trade roll bars then I will sell it [$250] or trade it for something I can use
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Not a 2x2
but the strut towers are higher on a 280z than on the 240z , the 240z bar I have would need to be cut to fit a 280z -
Well this is most likely not your problem unless you resently blew a head gasket but the symptoms are the same, when I blew the head gasket it dumped the coolant out the exhaust and after I repaired the engine it would idle ok but it wouldnt rev up and after chasing a lot of ghost [fuel and ignition] I finaly removed the catalytic converter and fired it up and it reved up fine
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I have a roll bar from a 240z and I would like to trade it for a 280z roll bar , if I cant find one to trade then I will have to cut to fit but I would rather trade for the right one,message me here at hybridZ or at my email fivepoint0cj7@yahoo.com
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could you post some pics.. i think he may have some more bissness? what are you planing on doin for the trans mount
The pics are his from one of his posts in the
"parts for sale" section ,these are the same as the ones he made for me .
I will post pics of mine asap , as for the trany mount I think I am going to make my own out of some thick aluminum plate I have , seems strong enough.
edit. sorry the pics are so tiny
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what did the set back plates run u?
I got the plates and spacers for $100 shiped , $50 for the spacers and $50 for the plates including shipping ,I know its about the same price as JTR but I saved money on shipping and they are realy much nicer than the JTR pieces , NCchris does some beautifull machine work.
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Got my set back plates and spacers yesterday
beautifull machine work [made by NCchris]Maby someone can help on this or confirm , if I put the drivers side set back plate against the block then I wont need to trim the motor mount , but if I put the spacer against the block then I will need to trim the mount ....any issues with puting the set back plate against the block ? it seems and looks like more clearance to me and in the JTR book in chapter 3 on page 10 it shows a mock up with the set back plate against the block so...which way is it supposed to go ? either way ?
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Thanks Chris I got them last night , beautifull machine work ! question about position of pieces on drivers side , the way you have them in your pic with the plate against the block will it interfere with anything else ? I saw in the JTR book in chapter 3 page 10 they show a mockup using the set back plate against the block and the spacer between the set back plate and the crossmember motor mount... pretty much how you had them arranged in the pic, but in the writen part they talk about triming the chevy motor mount to make it fit but that's if the spacer is sandwiched between the block and the plate which then puts the chevy mount on the plate and right next to the bolts that go through the plate into the block , so if I put the plate against the block I wont neet to trim the mount but if I put the spacer against the block I will need to trim the mount,any problems doing this ? Thanks again for the beautifull pieces .
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A link would be handy.
Here's one , his name is Dean he does a lot of 4x4 stuff but not limited to 4x4 he also does cryo treatment on just about anything .
There are other fabrication parts manufactures with similar setups that are made to be custom adapted to fit with different bar lengths and arm lengths, many have multiple link mount holes on the arms for quick and easy changes and Dean would make them with whatever you want
http://www.kickassoffroad.com/kick_ass_offroad_final_007.htm
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I looked at both the links and niether one realy answers the guys question , yes they swap no they dont swap , bolts right up easy and wont bolt up requires extensive modification .
I am currently repairing my 240 dash and swaping in a 280 tach before I install it in my 280 chassis so I will try to post details on what needs to be done.
Make It Work !
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...that was easy
Now for the fun part
And then cover it up...
I am not quite finished yet but it looks like it will work. Keep it as high as you can. Remote fuel fill would still be an option (hidden behind license plate). I am going to shave original fuel cap fill door. I hope that helps.
Gord
Couple questions ....what size fuel cell is that and what year is that 240z ? no tool/storage boxes so is it a first generation 240z ?
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They are made from 6061-T6 aluminum. Identical to the ones in the thread I referred you to.
Yes I can do paypal. PM if interested.
chris
Just saying thanks Chris, cant wait till they are finished !
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Sounds like a solid rig. Got any pics?
These pics are before installing the one ton axles
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Just wanted to say hey ...I am also a Z owner and a Jeep owner , I have a 82 cj7 with a 5.0 roller cam mustang engine, a T18 four speed, atlas 2 transfer case, sprung over one ton axles dana60 front and 14 bolt FF rear,recentered hummer beadlocks and 37 inch tires .
And I am currently on my 6th and 7th Z cars....building a v8 240 260 280Z cross breed
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I have a pair of setback plates. 1/2" thick to JTR drawings. No spacers.
$50 bux shipped.
Would you take pay pal ? and what are they made out of ? aluminum ?
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Cool .... I have the right one !
One less part to buy , now on to plumbing the adjustable proportioning valve .
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5 to 7 psi is pretty high for SU's , you sure its not flooding ? make sure the piston damper assembly moves freely so you know the needle can lift up out of the seat for fuel to flow , the choke drops the seat to allow fuel to flow , but when the carb is working the piston and needle lift up out of the seat and allow fuel to flow ,so from what you have said ....the piston may not be lifting the needle out of its seat so it could be the needles are not centered or things are just gummed up .....more info !
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If you wanted to go custom there are three piece bars made with a straight bar and aluminum arms on the ends available in different lengths with multiple mounting holes , they are made to do exactly what you are refering to
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Anybody ?
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Thanks for the info , best info I found yet ....but I may have gotten lucky I might already have the right M/C to swich to rear disk but I want to make sure, does anyone have a picture of the ZX M/C for 4 wheel disks ?....the one I have is a nabco 15/16
I looked already but I only found the pics of the nabco 7/8 for the 240z
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I think I may have got lucky , the rust bucket 240z I'm striping might have a zx master cylinder , anyone have any pics or way to ID , I know its a nabco and it is 15/16 so I want to confirm if its allready set up for rear disks , I think its the right one but just want to try to be sure before I swap it over.
I will try to post a pick
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Thank you for the info, I was considering using a M/C made for 4 wheel discs from a ZX , I just couldnt find any info on using the stock 240 60 or 80z M/C ...except that some people kept the stock M/C with the rear disc conversion , if they used the stock M/C did they remove the check valve ?
I will most likely change the M/C and solve this issue but for now I was looking for a residual pressure valve I could remove and make it work , the diagrams show a check valve on both front and rear outputs so I was thinking I could swap the check valve from the [i have a extra M/C] front disk output into the rear drum output so both the front and rear have the check valve used on the disks...Make sense ?
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The proportioning valve is not the issue , I bypassed the front passenger side line going into the proportioning valve with a 240z brake line and the rear line will be going through a adjustable proportioning valve instead of the stock one so I have that part covered , I just want to find out if anybody that is using a stock master cylinder with rear disks has done any modifications to the master cylinder reqarding residual pressure like removing the check valve or something.
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I have a 240 that was allready converted to disk and I am swaping the setup into a relatively rust free 280 chassis, all the hardware swaped with a little work , the conversion used stock front 240z rotors and calipers in the rear.
My question is reqarding the stock master cylinder since it was originaly set up for drums in the rear, should I remove the check valve on the rear output ? I know that drums require more residual pressure than disk do and I have had experience with this on other vehicles , it caused the rears to lock up and not release since the check valve held the pressure , has anybody addressed this issue with Z cars ? I have searched FAQs and found nothing regarding the residual pressure valve , can anybody answer the question or steer me in the right direction ?
but the strut towers are higher on a 280z than on the 240z , the 240z bar I have would need to be cut to fit a 280z
beautifull machine work [made by NCchris]
Parts
in Price Check
Posted · Edited by Robzzzz
Added pics
I have a few parts on Craigslist and was wondering what fair prices would be.
A set of early doors with glass.
A set of headlight buckets with mount/adjuster housings.
Rear hatch with glass.
Fuel injection manifold with fuel rail.
Quarter windows with chrome frame.
4 SU round top carbs (3 screw type)