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awd92gsx

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Posts posted by awd92gsx

    Dies in Drive

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I must not've seen that post...I'll go back and check...

     

    Technically, on a 1G SBC the EGR is routed through a port in the cylinder head into a chamber into the intake manifold and then rerouted to the intake charge. The vaccum port is routed from the carburetor, to the thermoswitch back to the EGR.

     

    The standard 1G SBC setup is mounted solely ON the intake manifold, rather than some of the later setups being mounted between the exhaust manifold and the intake

     

    In any case, it's blocked off at the moment until I get it running right...but, my Dart heads don't have the exhaust port going to the intake for the EGR anyway, so, it's not functional anyway...but, I need it for visual.

     

     

     

    If you are the same person writing from the Desert Z forum. I tried explaining some points to you but you I guess you understand what I was telling you.

     

    I hope you don't get offended because I would really like to see you get that car running again.

     

    An EGR valve does not go from the caruretor vent to the intake manifold. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It's an emissions device used to reburn gas coming out of the exhaust. It goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold NOT THE CARBURETOR. On the 280z engine it is mounted on the intake manifold with a tube that goes down to the exhaust. Yours is designed to be mounted on the exhaust not the intake with exhaust into the center and manifold connection on the side.

     

    I would pull off all the emission stuff you got on it' date=' plug it up and make sure it is running correctly before you reinstall all of it again.

     

    If you need a bung welded on the exhaust for the EGR, I can do it for you for nothing, but I live in the east valley.[/quote']

    Dies in Drive

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah...it sounds like a vaccuum leak to me as well...I just can't seem to figure out where it's coming from...

     

    I bought one more set of intake manifold gaskets (good thing Chevy parts are cheap!!) and some different sealant. I don't know why I would be having so many troubles getting the intake sealed up right...but...I seem to be having them.

    Dies in Drive

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    OK...I'm out of ideas...

     

    After putting on my new heads and intake whenever I put the car in Drive it simply wants to stall out and die. Also, if I give it more than about 1/2 throttle, it backfires through the carb and wants to stall out unless I let off of it.

     

    I tried a new carb, I just tried resealing my intake manifold, ignition advance is good (set at about 12 BTDC - changing this doesn't really make alot of difference.) Checked and changed the throttle body gaskets, doesn't appear to be any leaking around the carb.

     

    When in park/neutral it seems to idle "ok" and seems to rev up just fine...but, as soon as it's put in park it wants to die.

     

    I'm completely and utterly out of ideas.

    Whose got the slowest V8z?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    For what it's worth...I think the JTR manual says somewhere that a stock 350 in a 1G Z will run around a 13.4 or so...with the exception of my edelbrock intake and headers, my 280Z with a fairly tired '350 "feels" like a 13 second car.

     

    280Zone had an even more tired 350 with carb issues in his and WITH A PASSENGER and a slipping tranny ran consistent low 14's.

    A few upgrades...EGR issues...Help!

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    OK...I'm in the process of a few upgrades...dart aluminum pro1 heads, summit roller rockers, and a new weiand intake (EGR compatible for emissions)

     

    intakeon.jpg

     

    But...I've kind of run into a snag...

     

    Since I live in an emission state (and my emissions are actually due) I'm forced to run an EGR...so, I went down to get an EGR for a '77 El Camino and while I was putting it on the manifold I noticed that there's no way in hell it's going to clear my valve covers (which will, of course, have to be tall to clear the rockers)

     

    egrblock1.jpg

     

    egrblock2.jpg

     

    egr.jpg

     

    Any ideas? Suggestions? Is there a smaller EGR valve out there that I have to run from a different application or something?

    How fast you do it?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I dunno...this was my first V8Z swap...From the time I pulled my running Z into the garage...it took me about a month and a half, maybe two months of working on it every couple of nights for about an hour or so, more on the weekends.

     

    Of course, it all depends on if you get caught up in the "while I'm in there" bit...

     

    I spent a total of about $1700 on my swap...and that included a bunch of things I didn't necessarily "need" but, wanted (like a new water pump, new alternator, etc...)

     

    The biggest time consumer was going back down to the store to buy more bolts...it was never ending.

     

    I should put together a bolt kit for the V8Z swap someday...I'd make millions.

    New hood and light cover pics

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Well...I attempted to paint it myself, at first...but, in the end I ended up having dmsv8 paint it for me, after he explained everything I was doing wrong.

     

    Initially, I'd considered doing it the same red as my car...but, like you said, matching it would be difficult since I didn't know the exact paint color that was used on my car...so, that's why I decided to go black. The more I thought about it, the more going black on the hood appealed to me...but, I didn't want to just stop there, otherwise it would look like I had just forgotten to repaint the hood...so, that's where I got the ideas of getting the headlight covers.

     

    Now that I have some black on the front, though, I need to splash the back of the car with some black to even it out a little bit.

     

    I also painted my engine red/black when I installed it, so, I've tried to keep the red/black theme going throughout the car....I've also been looking at some red/black steering wheels.

    New hood and light cover pics

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Thanks guys. I ran it for awhile without the headlight covers (about a week anyway), but, I like the more "sinister" look the headlight covers give it.

     

    Hmm...what's next...

     

    Well, Now that I have a some black in the front of the car, I think I need to have a splash of black in the back also...I think I'm going to paint my spoiler black. I thought about racing stripes, but, I'll wait until the next paint job for the car before I do that.

     

    We're doing great RacerX! Thanks!!

     

    The hood (full supported version) costs $435 from 280Zone. He also produces a full pin on version for cheaper, but, I'd go for the supported version (which I did)

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