rbpowered280z

^^^ looks good man! you should make some plates for the end of the dash or something, just to finish it off. if not, still looks good! Lloyd

a bit overpriced, i agree. but man, that kool koat is amazing i must say. super even coatings, no clogging, no chunking. best gun ive used! sick job btw, absolutely awsome! when i get a bigger oven, im going to be doing alot of valve covers i keep having to turn away. black mirror chrome ftw!

quick question why did you decide to run the fuel line through the cabin, and how in the world does any sanctioned racing body allow you to race with that setup? and also, with the fuel lines sitting on top of the cell, where is the rear bulkhead thats supposed to be there? Lloyd

hm, ok, i will be doing some more research and digging around. anyone have anymore suggestions for carbon fiber body pieces or fiberglass? i found smoothline, reaction research, showcars-body parts, zforceproductions. it seems like its ~6-700 for a pair of fg doors. pretty good deal. anyone have experience using them with manual window cranks or lexan glass? Lloyd

its worth a shot. anyone know what im talking about? i am currently looking into the 280yz, but anyone heard of the bob sharp kit? fiberglass doors and all that? i am planning a full cage in the car, so im not worried about running flimsy doors Lloyd

there was one guy on here a couple years ago who built a dash out of 2 or 3 pieces of aluminum and bolted it all together, with the top piece being removable so you could access the wires and such. it turned out pretty wicked and it was my inspiration for the dash i am building. no pictures of mine, cause HEY, i have no money but anyways, i think there are pictures floating around somewhere around here. love the pic above though, SUPER simple and clean, LOVE IT Lloyd

you can have a surge tank and fuel cell mounted inside of the hatch, but the fuel lines cannot run through the cabin, and if you have fuel system inside the hatch, a rear bulkhead must be used. accord to scca/nasa/formula-d/d1 rules ie: note that this system is in the trunk of an s14, with a firewall instead of back seats. Lloyd

if it were me, and its what im going to do to my rb when i get around to it, is tear it apart, and replace all of the bearings, piston rings, gaskets, upgrade the oil pump, water pump, head gasket, just rebuild the whole thing. i dont think it would be that much, seeing as you wouldent have to buy any of the expensive stuff, cams, valves, crank, just rebuild and get going. but thats just me. i have never bought an engine from an import service and not torn it apart. half of the time, with rotaries at least, they are either blown or have underlying issues that will rear their ugly heads right after the 30 days is up. Lloyd

roye, im in norcal, about 750 miles from san diego lol. ive done the drive a few times. i know, WE NEED PICTURES. im thinking about building an oven out of scrap steel that my friend has laying around then going to an e-waste place and getting a few elements and some nice controls. Lloyd

i got a question for you powder coaters. i need to get a bigger oven, but i cant find one big enough to cook a straight 6 valve cover. i have thuoght about doing the pregnant oven trick, but did you guys have any other suggestions, or plans for a home made oven. Lloyd

its just powder. you can powdercoat anything that will hold a charge, and what i did was attach the electrode to the engine pieces themselves, so the powder static clings to the piece. you can do 10 layers of powder and if you have a decent gun it will still adhere to the piece. Lloyd

ive seen them done, but i guess you would have to be careful with how long you bake them. and i dont think warpage would matter much, seeing as when the trim is clipped on, they wont be warped. idk, someone on here did them. Lloyd

heres what the housings looked like step by step: right after tear down: after sandblasting chrome powder applied before baking after first coat with chrome and ready for the candy blue candy blue before baking candy blue out of the oven and heres the back of the rear iron in the black, it looked wet, but wasnt, i love that powder. i am doing the whole VW engine that color. skeet skeet so, like i said, the outgassing was there, but not barely noticeable. i used the sand blasting cabinent before, followed with 2 days soaking in chemdip to get rid of all the shavings and oil and crap. then used simple green to reprep the pieces, a bit of a wire wheel, then the rest was all powdering. all in all, about 40 hours of work between the porting and coating Lloyd

you know, i havent had too much of a problem with outgassing. i dont cook the parts too long, i found out that if you preheat the parts enough before hand and get them up to just above being able to handle them by hand, the outgassing isnt nearly as bad as before. i will take pictures of the vw engine i am currently doing. i didnt preheat this: as you can tell, there is outgassing. it was covered up by the candy blue, then the whole front cover was replaced and redone, wasnt up to my standards. like i said, i will take pictures of the vw engine i am doing. i preheated them and there was no outgassing, everything came out glassy smooth. Lloyd p.s. i have heard that using iron phosphate to prep parts helps make the piece come out nicer and smoother. either the phosphate helps smooth the surface and cut down on the amount of micro air pockets, or just makes the area clean and ready for powder, idk. i dont use iron phosphate, i use my old bosses sand blasting cabinent. its a mix of medium grit sand and #6 glass bead.

i just pickedup myself the kool koat 3.0 gun from columbiacoatings.com........such a badass gun. i have been messing around with the hyper mirror black and candy colors. heres a rotary i did using the black and chrome and candy blue i redid the front cover, i did it with my craftsman gun, i hated that thing ported the engine as well. its from a 93 usdm rx7. 13brew is its classification Lloyd