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JMortensen

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JMortensen last won the day on August 8 2019

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About JMortensen

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  1. Hey, just thought of another, simple solution! Non-plunging 930 CVs. Get 2, run one on each side. I'd bet that solves it. There might be a cheaper source, but RCV makes quality parts: https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate-non-plunging-fixed-930-cv-joint-chromoly-cage-and-28-spline.html
  2. I doubt the CV is at too much of an angle. The 911 has the transaxle end of the CV something like 2" forward of the hub, then they run camber and they handle it fine. They do have deep pockets for the CVs to move into, you could completely extend the CV in the race and it wouldn't touch anything on the car. I think that's the difference. As far as the other options go, my LS should be in the vicinity of 400 ft/lbs with Z31T and Modern Motorsports chromoly stub axles and adapters, and aside from CV bolts loosening (fixed with safety wire) I've had no trouble.
  3. I think WCR and Ermish's kits were designed for 510s, so they fit on R160 with similar track width. Add R180, fit still works. Add R200, now the shafts are too long. That's my guess anyway.
  4. My memory is kinda fuzzy, but I seem to recall that the Z32 calipers weren't the best. The iron ones were heavy, the aluminum ones were flexy. I seem to recall people adapting them to S30s and other people saying: "Why didn't you just get some Wilwoods, they're less flexy and perform better?"
  5. Those are some serious brakes Ironhead. Nice! I remember Dave at AZC used to drill the stock rear hubs for 5 lugs and as part of the deal he put them on a lathe to true them, just in case someone had backed into a curb in 1973 while parallel parking. I would assume you could do the same for the TTT front hubs if desired. FWIW I have an engineer friend who was telling me not to use AL front hubs, as the AL expands at different rates than the steel bearing races and he has seen quite a few spun wheel bearings in Mustangs with AL hubs. Suppose that's only a problem for the serious road racer types. I have AL hubs, so if I have problems, plan is to switch out to something else entirely...
  6. CobraMatt was 8 seconds faster than Greg at VIR with his LS7 big wing car IIRC, so without rules, can go quite a bit faster than that...
  7. You can sort a Z and make it handle. Just takes more work than it does on a newer car with a better suspension design. Took 2nd overall at an autocross this summer, along with 5th on another occasion. But if you're expecting to put poly bushings and KYBs in one and be at the front of the pack, eh, not so much...
  8. Prepping for track days next year. Should have something for you in about 6 months...
  9. I think the easiest way to reduce front lift is to duct the radiator to the front of the car, so that all the air that goes in the nose has to go through the rad and can't go under or over the rad support. Even better would be to take the air out of the rad and send it back outside of the car, either to the sides or out the hood. I also think that a wing shape under the crossmember could potentially work, but the front end of the Z packs so much air into the engine compartment that you'd have a hard time accelerating the air with your foil, as it would exhaust into the high pressure area under the hood. In other words, it probably won't work much or at all without first dealing with the huge amount of air that's packing into the front of the car. None of the cars tested in the windtunnel had a radiator duct, unfortunately. They did close up the hole in the nose to varying degrees, which is better than nothing, but I think they left a lot on the table in that respect.
  10. I believe I have an extra set if you need them. Dunno what they're going for, but I'll offer them for $50 and cover shipping. PM if you're interested.
  11. Stock bushings need to be pressed in. If they're loose, that's not going to work. Probably the wrong bushing. Poly should be tight in the control arm. The idea of poly is that when you tighten the bolt down, the sleeve that goes through the middle of the bushing gets pinched in the crossmember and stays stationary, and the poly slides on the sleeve. IME the Z bushings are way too wide, so that when you bolt it all together there might be 1/8" or 3/16" of bushing sticking out past the sleeve. If you tighten the bolt down enough to pinch the sleeve in the crossmember, the way it should be, the bushings are so compressed that it makes it damn near impossible to move the control arm. What would really help here is taking the bushings to a belt sander and removing some of the extra bushing material.
  12. Increasing track width increases grip on that end of the car, so widening the front end should help with understeer. I suspect your problem with the hump is bumpsteer. I had a similar issue with a hump right on the exit of a corner. My Z would do an emergency lane change kind of maneuver as a result of the bumpsteer (running really low with 3/4" bumpsteer spacer, but no other bumpsteer mods at that time). I fixed the bumpsteer by slotting the front crossmember and moving the lower control arm pivots up about 7/16". One issue that might arise with an offset spacer is ball joint wear. You're increasing the leverage on the ball joint. Not sure if it's a big problem or a minor one, but theoretically should be different than stock.
  13. Not usually necessary, but a dirt cheap and easy way to do it is to take a piece of 3/8" hard fuel line, pinch the ends in a vise, drill holes and attach to existing holes in the chassis and fender. I had to do a brace on zredbaron's car because he barely had clearance between tire and fender and then bent the fender just a hair. When he turned the wheel the fender hit the tire. Took about 10 minutes, worked great.
  14. I have a suggestion: DON'T make a super strong support that comes off of the strut towers. If you are reinforcing the chasis for stiffness, end all of that at the front swaybar mount. Everything forward of that doesn't need to be super strong, and if you make it strong and get into a minor accident, it will take out the strut towers and make repair more difficult. If you haven't reinforced the chassis then you need the stiffness up front as that helps to keep the upper and lower frame rails in alignment. Just don't overdo it and run back to the strut towers. Not necessary to attach to the strut towers to support the weight of the rad, intercooler, ac condensor, whatever else you decide to put up there.
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