JMortensen

If he's going dual master cylinder the weight transfer issue can be adjusted out with a bias adjuster, or at worst a master cylinder swap.

Agree with Ironhead. If you're trying to figure out master cylinder sizes and that sort of thing, both Tilton and Wilwood can help with that. In the meantime you're asking an extremely open ended question: "I don't know what suspension I'm going to use, but what brakes are going to work with it?" is an impossible question. There are several spreadsheets that you can find online which will allow you to plug in a pedal pressure, rotor diameter, pad size, number of pistons, etc and figure out the resultant brake bias, but last time I looked, about 10 years ago, they were all wrong. Every one of them that I looked at. As to the single vs two piece rotor thing, a two piece rotor is more likely to have issues with pad knockback, although I'm currently having issues with that on one piece rotors. Haven't figured it out yet, my guess is that it's a result of axle shaft movement in the rear in my case. I have anti-knockback springs, but need to disassemble all of the calipers to install them, which I'm not looking forward to.

Viscous has one really long shaft, so they look like CLSD to me.

Don't remember Ron's pic exactly, but that is definitely the same idea.

I believe Ron Tyler did this on his Z. There used to be pics here, but they're long gone I'm sure. What was done was to set the battery at frame level, cut the (rotten) battery tray and that part of the fenderwell out, then rebuild. The battery is already fairly well positioned in the car fore/aft and offsets some driver weight, but moving it down does have a little benefit. 10 ft reduction in stopping distance sounds optimistic to me, but I'm no engineer. In addition to moving weight in the car, reducing it also serves the same function. Fenderwells are gone in my car, and I have side pipes, so I had to put it into the cabin. I tried a 3 lb lithium battery, and was going to install behind the driver's seat but then realized that the cabling would add weight, so I stuck it on the trans tunnel. At 3 lb, wasn't so worried about the height of the weight, and it was still lower than the stock position. After I bricked 2 of them, went back to a PC680 and stuck that behind the pass seat and dealt with the extra 15 lbs of battery and cables.

The flip side of taking the wheels off is that you can get to the tie rods and whatever other adjustments you have a lot easier. When I have done string alignments getting at the adjusters is really difficult, and one time I tried putting the car up on a couple of piece of wood stacked up with greased floor tiles for slip plates. When I was making adjustments the car wanted to slide off of the plates. Only would have fallen 3", but still not a good feeling when you're laying on the shop floor with your head stuck under there.

Cracked right in the corner as I recall.

I searched here and Google and couldn't find pics, but I have seen it several times. Just for fun I googled "240z cracked front differential crossmember" and that has been posted probably 10 or more times and didn't come up in the images either.

There have been multiple ITS cars over the years that have posted cracked uprights. Usually crack right up at the top.

Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.

Main thing is a flat surface to set them on. Can do most of the rest with digital level and tape measure. I find measuring caster to be a real PITA. That would be easier with turn plates, but then you'd need 4 or at least platforms in the back to get back to level again.

I cheated. Bolted one mount to the plates, tacked them in. Then bolted the rest of the seat in, tacked in the other side.

LOL. Looking at my pic, I remembered that I used 2x2 on the pass side. 1x1 on driver's side. Pass side seat is 20 degree layback, driver's is 10 degree. Sorry for misinfo.

No, I cut holes in the tubes, welded nuts to plates, and welded them to the tubes, so that the bolts screw straight into the tubing.