JMortensen

Roof mounted pedals was a bold choice.

I think you'll have a hard time finding flares built to the precision you'd need to take advantage of that tiny gap from the rivnut being reduced. I only have experience with the zccjdm flares and the MAS flares from back in the day, but neither of those was a super tight fit. Another option is to silicone them on. Saw a video of a guy in Japan doing a RWB 911 and he just used a bead of black silicone to fix the seam, looked good to me, but I don't mind the welting either and just have the flares screwed on with nothing at all to fix the gaps on my own car, so YMMV.

I think you're probably more likely to warp the sheet metal welding than installing rivnuts, and rivnuts can be easily removed if they get messed up or cross threaded. Rivnuts are easier and work great. I'm sure the welded nuts will work, but I just don't see the benefit.

You can also slot or redrill the inner pivot on the crossmember, move the LCA pivot up and this changes bumpsteer and RC.

I didn't summon you, troll. Go away.

Lightened 432R with dual exhaust (adding weight back?) complete with S20 and crap Nismo roll bar: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10159065665906559&set=pcb.1922406734626606

If you're bolting in a strut brace and have a welder, would it be possible to weld up a better brace, either off of the strut tower or off of your braces to the firewall? I think the idea of a master cyl brace is a good one, just not convinced that the bracket they're selling would do much.

Yeah, I'd learn to live with it, especially if you're going to lighten up the flywheel (which is very worthwhile).

Yep. Can add that the noise is a lot more prevalent in cars with light flywheels. Here's a thread from Miata.net where they talk about the rattle associated with light flywheels, with one person describing it as I usually do, sounding like marbles rolling around inside the transmission. I think the consensus is that it's gear lash, and the gears in the trans are rocking back and forth between power strokes, so the lighter the flywheel and the slower the idle speed and the lopier the cam, the more likely you are to hear it. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=732227&highlight=flywheel+rattle

Can be improved upon by tweaking the angle of the louvers. Bigger slots and more vertical leading louvers looks uglier, works better. Here is a video from AJ Hartman who makes CF wings and diffusers and splitters, and he tests in the wind tunnel with the Race Louvers all the time. He doesn't give away all the info, but he does give you the basic gist of what they found. Found one specifically on louvers:

Watch some Holdener videos. He states the lift and duration. They're not "all the same" but any big cam manufacturer should be able to sell you a cam that makes power on an LS1 and if you stick with similar lift and duration, you'll get similar results. It's not hard to get a big bump.

Can't help you on that one. I think it might be in "How to Modify" but I sold that book 10 years ago.

26" is big for a Z. If you pull the tire back you're reducing caster. Might work, but will increase understeer.

I've used one before. It's impossible to cut a straight line without clamping a straight edge to it. If you were cutting out a bunch of weird shaped panels it would be a great choice. Produces tiny crescent moon shaped chunks that are sharp AF. Don't use without pants that are long enough to cover the tops of your shoes. For my $.02, I prefer the sheet metal shears (like scissors) for straight lines: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html When I have to cut curves I use a bandsaw or a jigsaw. They won't cut a curve as nice as the nibbler, but they're a lot easier to control and it's easy enough to sand the rough edges with a belt sander.

I doubt that a flap right in front of the cowl would turn the positive pressure area into a negative one, maybe as you said, change the pressure enough to get the air to flow. You could think if the windshield as being a flap that is 20x as tall and I think the windshield would overpower the flap. It is something that could be easily tested though; just tape a piece of angle to the hood in front of the cowl vents. Probably easier than making a block off plate to close up the firewall.