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JMortensen last won the day on January 17

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  1. ZX rack is mounted behind the crossmember.
  2. Yeah, that needs replacing for sure. Think you probably found it! If you don't mind the vibrations, get a poly or plastic one. People have also drilled hockey pucks and used them, if you happen to have one.
  3. I just remembered a clunk I had, and turned out it was the big bolts that go through the steer knuckles and into the strut. Might check those and make sure they're tight while you're under there.
  4. You can just remove one sway bar end link and then it will flop along and not be doing anything and shouldn't make any noise outside of maybe bushings squeaking. Easier than removing the whole thing. If it stops and you think it's around the bar/frame mount, pull it all the way off and inspect the frame rails where it bolts on. Aftermarket bars tended to rip up the frame rails when these things were new and not rusty. How about the rag joint in the steering column? OG rubber, or did you upgrade that one too? Sorry, can't help with wiring part.
  5. I ran Buttonwillow and Streets of Willow but never Big Willow. I signed up but something came up and didn't go. Buttonwillow speeds are lower, there isn't shit out there to figure out braking markers so you end up looking for cracks in the pavement and stuff like that. Track is very hard on brakes especially if you run the hairpin, good place to stress test your build. Used to be pretty bumpy in the braking zones 20 years ago. I can't remember if you play Assetto Corsa or not, but you can download Buttonwillow and it comes with a bunch of configurations. Well worth the $6 or $7. https://www.simtraxx.net/shop/product/buttonwillow-raceway-usa-aerial-laserscanned-ac-ultimate-edition/
  6. Yeah, lowered otherwise stock Z will have something like -3 in back and -.5 in front. Terrible.
  7. I'm in this same boat. I widened the LCAs an inch to prevent CV bottoming and the rear ended up at something like -3.5 with the camber plates flipped and maxxed out positive. I had the same idea about removing the tubes from the uprights. I actually have Mustang 36mm Bilsteins I am going to run. They are the same length as my sectioned front struts that I run now, so I'll need to run a spacer in the back. My thought was to make a mount and bolt the uprights to it to measure the strut angle, then bend the strut tube in say 4 degrees. The camber plate should handle about 2 degrees of adjustment (guesstimate) and so if I could get somewhere in the 0 to -2 or -1 to -3 range I think it would work. My other thoughts were to cut the top of the tower out, plate it and recut the hole for the camber plate (sounds like a lot of hassle), or to make a 1" thick offset plate to mount between the bottom and top of the camber plate and move everything outboard, but seems like that might be a lot of extra stress on the camber plate and strut tower.
  8. I was under the impression that since you don't need airflow to atomize the fuel, you should go bigger on ITBs.
  9. They had a problem where their fabbed upright was flexing. Wasn't the arm. Maybe this one didn't get the update, or maybe the update wasn't good enough. I have similar arms (Apex modeled theirs on mine) and I don't have issues. Regardless, that doesn't look good at all.
  10. Make sure that the suspension moves freely through the full range. Can remove springs and compress the strut with ratchet straps and make sure you don't feel any solid resistance.
  11. The factory mounts are pretty tall. I think you're going to have to remove them with any seat you choose at that height. If you want to race might need to go 1x1 square frame and screw directly into the tubes. BTW, removing the mounts is a PITA too. 487 spot welds holding those bastards in.
  12. Autox but will be doing track days hopefully next summer. Track should have me doing 140 - 150 at the end of the straight, from what I hear.
  13. I think tube80z shared that with me a few years ago. Made me regret that I had installed my fuel cell at a 7* angle because when I did it 7* was considered the max angle you could run without separation. He's talking 20* in there though. That's way outside of what I would have thought would work. I think when I do build one the focus will be on making it as long as possible and I may try to change the angle along the length. Been looking at AJ's gigantic one, and it appears that maximizing the angle in that particular space is the focus, rather than sticking to a particular angle. You can see it kinda steps up past the axle, then flattens out a bit under the gas tank, then steps up again at the end. https://ajhartmanaero.com/modular-diffusor/
  14. Here's something that really surprised me when I read it: diffusers actually work best when the air starts to separate: https://www.racetechmag.com/2017/08/willem-toet-explains-motorsport-diffusers/
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