Jump to content
HybridZ

JMortensen

Donating Members
  • Posts

    13640
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    58
  • Feedback

    0%

JMortensen last won the day on August 21 2022

JMortensen had the most liked content!

1 Follower

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    JonDatsun
  • Website URL
    petdoorstore.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Seattle area, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

26786 profile views

JMortensen's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

263

Reputation

  1. Gotta do what is comfortable. The adapter adds some thickness too, so if you got a wheel with the same dish as stock and then put a 1" adapter behind it, it's going to be closer than you want. I don't expect there are that many Z people you can ask to sit in their car in MN, but that would be the best option. Quick check shows spacers available, so maybe err on the side of too far away if you're in doubt and then use spacers to bring it back in if needed.
  2. Just get an adapter for an S30 that fits the wheel you like. People without power steering commonly go 14". I found myself hitting the door panel when autocrossing, eventually went 13 and liked that better. Had aftermarket gauges, but didn't have any problem seeing them with the 13. It's been a while since I've shopped wheels, but Grant GT wheels have 5 bolts holding the wheel on, MOMO and most other aftermarket wheels have 6 bolts. But find the wheel first, that way you won't be exchanging the adapter.
  3. If you've got How to Make Your Car Handle, p3 (first page of actual writing) has a Z on 13s next to a stock one. Always wanted to do it, eventually ended up with brakes too big to make 13s work.
  4. I ASSumed it would be a carriage bolt type of setup installed from below, with the stud sticking out of the top. Looks like a plate goes underneath. My bad.
  5. Nothing missing. The slots fit under the stock strut tower. Loosen the bolts and you can slide the plate in or out to adjust camber.
  6. Just what the post says. If you have one for sale, DM me.
  7. Don't have a diff for you, but if you're still looking it might help to know that you can take the threaded buttons out of an R180 with bolt in shafts and use in an R180 that had clip in shafts.
  8. Check the biscuit style camber plates, second and third listings on this page: https://www.dpracing.co/datsun-z-front-suspension-1 Design Products has been making Z race parts for 3 decades, maybe 4, not sure. I never used these, but suspension guru John Coffey used them and always talked them up.
  9. The problem is that there is a transition from the strut top to the area between the wall of the cabin. I'd be putting my camber plate right in that spot. I suppose I could cut out the entire strut top, lay a new piece of .120 sheet in there and put a gigantic slot in it and have 5 degrees of movement or something like that, and then just weld it to the plate on top of strut area and the regular strut area. That'd be weird, but I think doable. Might be a lot of cutting on the underside of the plate that is in there now. I seem to remember a little pocket in that spot that I plated over.
  10. I thought about welding a clevis to the rear of the upright and then being able to adjust roll center with spacers. I think you had brought that up years ago. I like the "fix it at the top" idea though, I think that's going to be simpler, won't have to mess with the CVs, etc, so that's the plan for now. Just need to disassemble so that I can get the camber plate shape and then work backwards to make an offset spacer. Was thinking of drilling and tapping the spacer so that I could move the camber plate to the stock position and then 1" back, and running studs in the top to bolt to the chassis and bolting the camber plate to the bottom. Might be a little tricky getting the plate to move far enough without the strut top hitting anything, but I suppose I've reinforced enough in there that I can hack some metal away without affecting things too greatly. It sounds easy from the office chair...
  11. I don't know how much I'll need to shorten the arms by, but I was thinking exactly the same thing this morning while at my kid's dentist appt. My rear struts are nearly topped out. I could make a spacer that bolts to the existing camber plate and lowers the top of the strut to clear the bottom of the plate, then just slide the top of the strut farther than it is now and maybe get the pos camber I need that way. I do have Ground Control plates, so they're not like the shitty ones that have 3/4" of adjustment that you get with BC coilovers or something like that. I don't have any of the axles that I was having made back in the day, so I'd need to figure out the CVs. If I did something on the top end I wouldn't have to mess with that. Might have to cut back the plate on top that the roll cage is welded to.
  12. I'm getting ready to rebuild my rear control arms. I need shorter. Too much camber for the slicks I'm running, and I have the camber plate tops flipped around to minimize, still not enough. Question: I have some 1 1/8" x .120" DOM mild tubing. Looking around, most tubing ends are 1" so that works fine. Could also do some 1 1/8 x .058" wall chromoly. I'm not very proficient with my tig welder yet, but that would be another option. When I dyno'd the car they tied it down with the control arms and it didn't want to start spinning the drum, car was bouncing all over. Not sure I'd feel confident with .058 in that scenario. Slight revisions I'm considering, would appreciate feedback: 1. Using a monoball holder instead of an outer rod end in the rear 2. Welding in 5/8" studs into the strut upright rather than using a long bolt 3. spacing the rod ends away from the strut a little bit. Monoball holder does this automatically, if I did a rod end again would probably use a rod end spacer like so:
  13. I paid $2500 for a paint job in the 90s. That's like $60K now. Actually ~$4600, just looked it up. From experience, I would suggest that you will do it better than an inexpensive shop will, and a respray on a classic car is going to be the project in the back of the shop that they work on when they don't have fender benders coming through, so you'll be in paint jail for a while. My $2500 job had runs everywhere and crazy amounts of orange peel, you could see the original red creeping out from the silver that it was painted with, etc. I was really unahappy with it. When I painted my car again after turning it into a race car I did a Rustoleum paint job and shot it with Harbor Freight spray gun. It turned out much better than the $2500 in terms of the paint itself. I didn't try to make it straight, so that did make it quite a bit easier. Suggestion: do all the prep and then take it to MAACO or someplace like that, preferably with the fenders, cowl, headlight buckets removed. Have them shoot it and then reassemble.
  14. Thanks Ben. NewZed, I'm looking for BASIC data. I don't really know what I'm looking for other than to capture data. I can do tire temps and pressures and that sort of thing manually, but I'd like to have video with g forces, speed, real basic stuff. Figure I can make changes and see if I see a difference in lateral or longitudinal gs. Was hoping to get friction circle data out of whatever I get. I'm not interested in all the linear pots and all that, just too complicated. I do find it somewhat amusing that you can take a new Vette, or even my '07 GTI and plug a datalogger in and it will grab all of that info from the stock sensors. Reason number 487 to give up on the Z and get a new car to race. When I race the GTI it's just so... FWD.
×
×
  • Create New...