JMortensen

Looks pretty sweet! Are those Jongbloed wheels? Nice job on the exhaust too. Really tight up against the bottom.

3KGT strut arrived. Here's what I learned. 1. It's short. Really short. The housing and strut totals about 18" before the studs at either end. The internal portion that would fit into the strut tube is about 3.5" shorter than the Mustang strut tube, which is 13.5" deep. So I'd have to weld the plate that the strut bolts to in the Mustang tube 3.5" from the bottom of the tube. My friend said he could have them shipped to me with the end plates loose, but I think it would be a serious PITA to weld the plates in that far up the tiny tube. Don't think I could even do it with my mig.

3KGT strut ordered.

Yes, there are similar pistons, shims, etc for the 36mm stuff and he's telling me if I rebuild the Ohlins pistons are better, so apparently from more than one manufacturer. I don't think 36mm is as popular with racers as the 46 which is used on pretty much all circle track stuff, but it's still a lot more available than the 30 stuff, it seems. I did come across one pretty big issue, the Mustang strut has about 4 or 5" of shaft sticking out the top where it goes through the camber plate. Definitely wouldn't clear the hood. Thinking I'm going to buy a tube for the Mustang and buy a strut for

I hope you do better than that...

That's essentially what my Mustang engineer friend has done. They made a 2" OD tube that fits a 36mm Bilstein and has bushings in the tube and a seal on top. So gets around all the issues with the 240 strut tube. I need to look at the shock tech post again and verify, but I think they had a gland nut that fit the 280Z, but I don't think it fit the 36mm strut, just the 30mm. If they had a 36mm gland nut could probably use the 3KGT insert and save some money vs the Mustang parts. The problems I see are that the Mustang strut has 7" travel where the Z has 6. He is telling me I can cut down the

NA stroker. I can't give any specifics, but Mark Belrose sold his race car with 3.1 stroker to a guy in Oz. Rebello motor with 50mm Mikunis, I think it was making 370 bhp or 390, can't remember. Anyway the new owner wanted more and built it again and was saying 400+ but wasn't an L24. Here's a vid of the car blowing a halfshaft at Bathurst:

LOL. Thanks for posting Bob. That one pops into my head every now and again: "WTF cam did that guy have in that thing anyway?!!?" Apparently it wasn't magic. We have had some people get their 240s down to 1800ish pounds, and engine builders in Australia are pushing 400hp NA, but haven't seen anyone put the two together yet.

I had a lot of runout when I first bolted them up, I shimmed it straight with .002" washers between the hat and rotor. Now there is more runout. One side is straight the other is about .020" out, thinking about cutting the rotor. We talked about that here 10 years ago or so and determined shimming was the right way to do it, but cutting sure seems easier. Shimming was a PITA. And yeah, my friend is able to make a Fox body Mustang legitimately fast, so he's doing something right. Between him and Cary (tube80z) you can get a ton of good info.

Akshully, since you brought it up... Same engineer suggested I ditch my aluminum hubs because he said the hub and bearing expand at different rates and it's pretty common to spin a bearing in the hub at high temps. Most people who buy this all this blingy stuff just drive on the street, but for those of us who really push it it's a different story. I have a completely separate front brake setup with steel hubs and I'm going to get it all prepped and take it with me when I finally do a track day, and I'll be prepared to swap hubs if I have problems at the track.

I think I already said it in this thread, but an old racing buddy and engineer made a point of saying that the straight hole with a thick spacer preferable to a tapered hole stud that uses spacers. It makes sense. The diameter at the large end of the tapered hole is quite a bit smaller than 5/8" so it's only going to get weaker from there. As to the aluminum vs steel, never underestimate the selling points of BILLET aluminum: 1) OMG it's BILLET!!1!!1!! and 2) its legitimately lighter weight.

Can't you put a one way check valve in the line between the scavenge pump and the tank?

I'm going to wait to hear from MCA. Looks like they do an upright monotube. Not my favorite. If that's the case, I'm thinking really hard about these 2" strut tubes for the Mustang. That really seems like it solves a lot of my problems. Should be easy to weld to the 240Z strut housing, fits the 36mm Bilstein, then I can get some revalved and it's been suggested to use Ohlins pistons in the Bilstein strut, as the piston machining is better and the struts are supposed be more consistent. Then it's really down to how much the DA strut tubes and the rest of the parts add. Looks like they'r

Looks like they also don't invert their struts... hmm.

Koni's road course tuning instructions: https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Racing/Road-Course-Tuning-Guide/ Autox tuning: https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Racing/Autocross-Tuning-Guide/