JMortensen

Those new ears on the strut tubes look BEEFY. Very nice. Same problem here with gear ratios. I looked at Super T10s for weight and strength, but that 1:1 4th really kills top speed. F8.8 with 3.08s gets you to 165 with my 24.5" tire or 172 with Ben's 18s. A taller rear gear means a wider spread between gears too which isn't great. 170ish is about as fast as I ever want to go in mine, dunno about you guys. I won't be attempting that without some more aero though. Nice thing about 18s is that there are a lot of race tires available as that's the common size for professional cars right now.

Video is private. From the description sounds like a broken ring or pinion gear. Ring gear the crunches come slower because it turns 1 time for every 3.54 or 3.70 or whatever turns of pinion gear.

Upload to youtube or something. Right now says I need to buy a codec to watch. Many moons ago, when I first put my car together and before I knew anything about diffs, I paid to have all new bearings installed in my R200. Huge waste of money I didn't have at the time. Anyway, the shop left the pinion nut finger tight. I drove it around the block and it was making a weird noise, so I went and grabbed my roommate (also a Z guy) and attempted to take him for a ride. The pinion gear walked up the ring gear and into the carrier and locked the whole drivetrain solid. Luckily, this happened 2 hou

Should be fine

Are you doing this real time, or reporting what happened a year ago? If real time, I have a suggestion: don't use Z camber plates. You've got some freedom to change things, and you can make that strut top whatever size you want. Looks like you've already gone bigger than you need for the Z stuff. I'd use Maximum Motorsports mustang camber plates. Their stuff is camber/caster adjustable, they use larger bearings and have a better setup than Ground Control in terms of centering the spring on the bearing. I know some of the other ones center on the monoball, but they use small 5/8" monoballs. I t

Was thinking that might be hard to understand, so made a shitty drawing.

Better method than tin foil: use a couple pieces of 1" angle iron on opposite sides of the strut tubes. Hold everything with hose clamps. The angle iron will center the tubes and you can tack them together, then pull the angle iron off and weld it up. Won't be exposing your strut to any heat and really holds the tubes firmly.

The rear strut tube should be 2" longer than the front, and yes, you need a spacer under the strut if you are running the same insert front and rear. Because you lose an inch more in the rear on a 280 by removing the taller isolators, and the front is the end that runs out of travel, you really don't need to section 280 struts in the rear at all. If you dig enough you might come across some posts from me from about 10 years ago when a guy had sectioned his rear struts and was trying to run it anyway. He had preloaded the crap out of the springs trying to get the ride height higher and t

Was thinking my first set from GC in '95 or so had 5" adjusters. Just to clarify. Looks to me like you might run the spring to the bottom of the adjuster without getting the ride height you want. You could grind the perch off of the strut tube, but that's a hassle. The other solution is to run a shorter spring. Shortest spring that doesn't coil bind is always the best choice because it's lighter and it will resist bending sideways when it compresses. I started off with 10's, worked down to 8's and now run 7's, but I also have super stiff springs and run very low, so don't need 6" of travel.

I bought super long ones for mine and trimmed them down. My first set were Ground Control. They had 4" adjusters. I set them up by putting the adjuster all the way up on the collar, then setting the perch so that the adjuster just touched the bottom of the spring, figuring I wouldn't be ever be preloading the springs. Looks to me like if you did the same you might have the perches welded on substantially lower.

Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks like your coilover sleeves are longer than the strut tube. Shouldn't be like that. The Koni bumpstops will compress a lot, and you'll smack the camber plate into the sleeve if you bottom it hard enough. Easy to trim down the sleeves and put the cut end on bottom so they don't look terrible.

If you just say Z31 Turbo LSD or 87-89 300ZX Turbo LSD people who want one will know what it is.

37:10 = 3.70 gear ratio. It is the Z31T LSD. Congratulations! That's a huge score.

The cover is from a Z31 Turbo. Doesn't necessarily mean that it's LSD. Pull the cover off and take some pictures of the carrier. An open carrier has round cross pin shafts. The LSD will have a square pins, or diamond shaped if it's the more rare NISMO version. There are pics of both in my big diff post in the drivetrain FAQ section. If it is LSD it's worth lots of money. Seen the finned cover alone up for $400, not sure if they sold it at that price. Seen the whole diff with CVs go for $1200+.

2) Strut doesn't need to be vertical with this design as you mention in point 4. It can tilt and the freed up toe link allows the strut to compress without side loading. You can move the wheel back for aesthetics if you want, just not so far that the toe link or the rear link bottoms out as the suspension goes through its travel (I think you'd have to go really far for this to happen, but never tried it). 3) I did the math 15 years or more ago, but if you use the 1.5x the thread diameter I think that means you can move the heims joint out 5/16" before you run into the limit. There are a lot