JMortensen

I wanted to go VR but didn't have the PC to run it and was worried about getting motion sick. From what I've read having a really really fast PC and being able to up the frame rate helps a lot. With the curved monitor I'm running a $500 i7 that I bought used off of Amazon. Had to add a cheapo graphics card for $150, but runs the ultrawide monitor just fine. I was tempted to go crazy and get a real gaming computer and VR, so that means it will probably happen in another couple years. Motion rigs are also super cool. Saw one that just does yaw for $2K, and you can get them with yaw, pitch, a

Started out on PS4 with GT Sport, Assetto Corsa, Assetto Corsa Competitione, and Dirt 4. GTS was great in that I could run with people over the net, but I got really tired of being punted going into turn 1, or assholes brake checking to spin you out when you started putting the pressure on, or people running into you and then you get the penalty. Ended up going to PC. I tried iRacing and didn't like the price, also hated that if you whif when practicing you need to go back to the pits to fix damage. It's a friggin game. I understand if you want to make the races go that way, but in practice

Looks like one of the pages accepted, the other didn't but the one that did has 41K members, so I expect that will help. GLWS.

Hey I tried to post this for you on FB, but because the title says LSD FB thinks it's drugs. Just FYI. If you want, repost and I'll post a link there for you. It will sell right away.

Plus you can see my ex-boss from the Porsche shop I worked at 20+ years ago in there. Well, his hand, anyway. "Guy Ober squares the suspension on his race Pinto using a plumb bob." Something like that. LOL Best thing I've seen on tuning race cars in a long while was about running sweeps. By sweeps I mean go too far one direction all the way to too far in the other direction, then find your happy setting. When I first started racing in the mid 90s, my roommate was a Nissan master tech who had been autocrossing for years. Among his pearls of wisdom were: "Never go bigger than a mild cam on an

Sure, separating the flow entirely would work too. I wouldn't put it right at the air dam though. Oil is a surprisingly big fire hazard, so I'd set it back and keep your frame work out in front to protect it. You don't need that much open space to cool the car either, I'd block the top grill entirely (with black material recessed a bit if you don't want it obviously blocked off, and then split the opening at the bottom to feed both the rad and the oil cooler.

I would build a duct from the front bodywork to the rad to force all the air that goes in to pass through the radiators, and then put the oil cooler on the backside of the rad. That's how I did mine after emailing with one of the oil cooler companies about it. Can't remember which company I was talking to (C&R?), but the idea was that the oil gets hotter than the coolant, so you want coolant first. They also steered me away from a rad/oil heat exchanger. The main point I got out of it was that the bigger the temp difference the better it will cool, so by putting your oil first you're ra

If I ever redo my headers I'm going Tri-Y out to the side pipes. Looks good! Did you dyno with the previous ones? Would be curious to see numbers on both.

Forgot to mention, the problem you run into with adjustable LCAs is running out of threads on the tie rods. If you go to a turnbuckle style you can make it a little longer to start with and then you're length adjustments are split between both sides, instead of all the adjustment happening on the inside as it works stock.

I drilled the knuckles out to 5/8 and used a bolt. Originally I was planning on using the stock rack and so I made my own tie rods by cutting the ends off of a stock set and welding them to a swaged 5/8 steel circle track tie rod. Wasn't hard. If you do this just order a really long one and cut in half and use the LH threaded side with the RH threaded stock end and vice versa.

It's Jon, but everyone does that. You don't need a spacer in front. Adding one doesn't change geometry, it will just reduce available bump travel, and gaining some travel is really the main point of sectioning struts. You will need a spacer in back. The rear strut housing should be 2" longer than front on a 240, 3" on a 280. If you don't have a spacer in back, the suspension will be really extended as compared to the front. If the rear tops out too much you'll get a loss of traction. The hub is below the strut tube, so adding length to it doesn't change the roll center. If you want

Welcome Joe! If you're going to modify the 72, this is a good place to ask questions before buying parts. My first Z was an orange 72 auto. I'm still not over getting rear ended in that car, which I bought from the original owner in '93 or '94. Loved that car and had all the parts to do a manual swap ready to go.

Leaving a gap on super thin sheet sounds like a recipe for blowing holes to me. I butt them up tight and then use low heat and let the weld pool sit there a little longer. Usually get a little bit of protrusion on the backside, so I have no fears about penetration. The brake duct might not be a perfect comparison as the tube is a little thicker, but in the second one you can see the side that was welded (around the tube) and the backside where I welded a stiffening flange around the edge of the backing plate.

Not sure why you felt the need to repost the same question in the FAQ area, but nobody can answer it there. Answers have to be approved by moderators. Plus it's not exactly a frequently asked question.

I don't believe they made a 2 pinion LSD for the R200. Only one I know of that isn't 4 pinion off the top of my head is R160, and that's a 3 pinion IIRC. Pull the cover off and count the cross pins to be sure. Would be interesting anyway just to see if it has the more aggressive ramps or the less aggressive ones. The bottom is the less aggressive.