nscason
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Posts posted by nscason
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the difference in the saw that you have and a wood saw is torque. a better quality chop saw has all kinds of torque. my teacher in high school bought a dewalt chop saw and we put that thing through hell. vs the wood saw that you are using it is made for ripping through wood. compared to metal, wood isnt so tuff. im only 20 and living with my parents. as soon as i move out i might need to look into the band saw thing. if you are going to look into a plasma cutter there are many things you need to know first. for the thickness of mild steel that you can cut you can only cut alum that is half as thick. it all has to do with heat dissipation. depending on what kind of budget and the amount of things your going to cut, there is a good cutting tool for you.
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wow thats nice. what kind of mpg do you get with that setup?
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i have been wondering about all of the fuel line stuff like that. i am in the process of putting in a new fuel system and for now keeping it stock from the pump back. how exactly did you eliminate the vent lines exactly? i have been wondering about that crap. i guessed and just got -8 an lines for everything up front wondering if that was going to be to big or if i was the only one doing that. im going to use 5/16 tubing for now and adapters. just until the fuel pump goes out. then everything else will be plumbed up with the -8 an lines. the problem for me is i dont have all the welding equipment, its my daily driver and i go to college. i have all kinds of things going on. do you have any pics of you modified tank for me to get ideas off of. thanks.
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i have the carbon fiber zg flairs from msa for my 77. i had them on and im in the process of molding in the msa type 3 body kit onto the car. so the flairs have been off for a while. the pocket style is my favorite.
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i know some stuff about cutting. that saw wasnt designed for metal. thats a wood saw. if you are going to be cutting a lot of metal you might as well get a chop saw. i have one. i got it from harbor freight for 50 bucks. thats a great deal to be honest. its ok quality wise. from my experience that is the cheapest and easiest way to go. you must also put into perspective, if you get a cutting torch you need to know how to use it properly and after every cut you are going to spent a lot of time grinding the surface to be flat and smooth. i have put all kinds of thought into this one. you are also going to want to stick with the abrasive wheel too. metal blades are very expensive and can be easy to mess up if you dont use them properly. i have done quite a bit of metal fab on a small budget. that average chop saw for metal is going to be over 200 though. but its all up to you. i use my cheap chop saw all the time it was worth it for me. hope i helped some.
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thats what i am dredding. i wonder if a better more efficient working motor with a cat on it would pass or do you need all of the goofy smog crap? and if that day comes and i cant pass it after doing all kinds of things then its time to park it and get ahold of a 240. that or move away. i think there is the no smog every 2 years because mex is a hop, skip and a jump away. a good portion of the people living here probobly wouldnt be able to pass and afford it.
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yes. i do have the stock ecu and me car is n/a. will putting on an adjustable fpr help or is a lower psi not going to affect the overall flow? how can i tell if im running rich or lean without getting one of those auto meters? or do i want to get one? does a zxt ecu control the fuel flow better or something? i figured that with more air going in and out of the motor and a hotter spark i would be ok with the zxt injectors. i have only had my car for about a 1 1/2 years and dont quite know all the things to get a good performing motor yet. dont get me wrong it runs great, im still learning though. any help would be great. thanks
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i live in california and i live in (at least thats what i have been told) one of three counties that doesnt require smog every 2 years. my car was smogged before i bought it and thats it. never again. hahahaha. i do hate the damn california emissions laws though. i will be screwed if i have to get my car smogged at any point. sorry for the ranting, but i never get to say that to anybody.
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i know some things about fabing up stuff. if you could put up some pics of the brace and how it sits around the towers i might be able to help with some ideas. for me its easiest if i can see what im going to be working on. i didnt feel like going through all the hassle so i went and bought the msa strut bar. it looks nice and no problems. its also adjustable. are you going to put it on the front or the rear?
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how do you get the power to those kind of things??? what kind of amps would something like that pull? would you need a bigger batt or beefier alt?
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i put this one up one month ago. are there no takers? no ideas??? my car has been like this for the longest time, but it hasnt really bothered me. it just gets annoying when the weather changes dramatically. thats about it though.
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once i get the extra fittings that i need im going to plumb up the rest of my system. i purchased alum 5/16 tubing. i eventually want Hp in the range of 400 to 500 Hp. that is a few years down the line though. should i put on the new line that i have or go bigger with the numbers that im eventually going to go for? i do have to use adapters to go from the 5/16 to the -8 an line that i have. i also am going to get an after market fuel pump the moment min goes out. is there any reason that i shouldn't use alum line for the main and return lines? im just trying to see if im wasting my money or not. thanks for the pressure numbers ill try to see what the problem is this week.
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nscason is the first letter of my first name, middle name and then my whole last name. nick s. cason. its the same for my yahoo. i got the idea from my mom. any time i sign up with something online i use that. its easy to remember.
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i did look around the site and leaned that im not going to have to worry about having a diff cooler, i dont think that im going to drop in a quafe ( if thats how you spell it) any time soon. and im not going to be racing my car every other weekend. that would be fun though. that and i dont want to drop 2 to 3 hundred on a cover take everything apart and have something not fit. ew... that would piss me off to no end.
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thats the kind of thing that i have been wondering. every single injector that my car had clogged up or stopped working. the guy i bought it from got injectors off some junker car. i replaced them with what autozone said where for MY car but they were for a zxt. a completely different injector. i did notice this right away, but im not the kind to argue when new ones were under $50. the Cherokee i used to drive they were well over $15- for new ones. and if the zxt fpr that i have isnt supposed to be at 60 psi what should it be? is the clogged return line maybe what killed the stock fpr? i am going to replace the fuel system with -8 an line and alum 5/16 tubing. and yes i know that 5/16 is closer to -6 an. it will be easier to upgrade the tubing later than all the -6 an i would have to down the road. is there anybody that thinks -8 is going overboard in size or is it reasonable for eventually having a monster under the hood. i did fugue on going and getting an aftermarket pump if and when the stock one goes out. any body have any ideas on a good one that wont cost a small fortune?
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ah ill try my best to remember that number. thanks.
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what exactly is 3bar? ive seen it on this site but don't know what it means. as soon as i get my aftermarket fuel system all plumbed up ill back the pressure down to 45psi. until then there's nothing i can do about the 60 psi that i have now. im using a zxt fpr only because the stock one took a crap.
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I have been putting in some racing seats for the past while. real pain in the butt cuz i have to get the seats to fit perfect for all the clearances. ok enough rambling... i would put in the passenger seat and unhook the wire for the parking break. some time i was driving and the light went on. i didn't understand how that could happen. i took the seat out and plugged the wire back to the parking brake. the wire is even now plugged in and the light stays on. is there a bad connection anywhere? does anyone have any ideas before i start to tare apart the wiring? maybe someone had this problem before? i just figured i would ask you guys so i have some ideas to maybe save me some time and frustration. thanks for any help.
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i got bored some while back and looked for a finned aluminum cover for a r200 diff. i found covers that had added capacity but they weren't exactly made for a Z. will any r200 diff cover fit onto a Z? i do eventually want to get the arizonazcar setup for the rear. there custom billet mustache bar and the billet rear brace. if i get those does it matter what r200 cover i get with those parts?
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Damn!!! do they still make these secret heads?!?
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well. i went to all the different places around town to buy my new plugs. i didnt figure that i would be running all over town. went to autozone-not order-able, went to pepboys( where i figured the would definitely have them) - not order-able. now take in mind they couldnt order ANY ngk plugs for my car. and a few people suggested bosch or autolite plugs, for a z. needless to say i laughed in there face. i then went to kregan and they didnt have them in stock, but they could order them and get them in 2 days. they were the plugs that were $3 something a piece. and those were the only ones that i could get for my car. i didnt feel like driving all the way to napa for them to not have them or be closed. so i purchased the plugs at kregan. i found some relief when i read that i should be able to keep my plugs for more than 100k.
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oh man all kinds of cool anti theft stuff. great ideas!!! i was thinking... if and when i go out and buy the arizona z car wilwood brakes there is going to be a line lock for the back and no parking break. i would love to see some random person try to take my car and they just cant go anywhere cuz they cant figure out how to unlock the rear tires. *followed by hysterical laughing and rolling around on the ground*
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Oh man that was the guy from top gear. i watched the show when it was on. that was a neat video. my question is was every single car stock??? didnt really sound like it. that does give me some reassurance that all the mods i have i can whipp a 350 z easily.
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to say the least. if there is a big rusted area and you dont have the tools and equipment to fix it yourself, a good body shop is your best bet. that is if it IS rust that is the problem. if you are going to take it to a body shop do some research first. just so you dont get ripped off or get poor quality work.
new VIDEO!!! after some good tunning on the Megasquirt........
in Non Tech Board
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just to add some thoughts... i wasnt quite sure where to go with my motor and had heard that having a beefy n/a wasnt going to be cheap. after looking at some of your pics your engine bay looks like mine. a bit dirty but the power is there and thats all that matters. not all kinds of chrome and pretty parts. any how after seeing the vid i have an idea what i would like to do. i need to learn all kinds of stuff though before i go out and possibly waste money. let me know what kind of mileage you get once you dont floor it around every turn.