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ultimatepoghero

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About ultimatepoghero

  • Birthday 08/11/1985

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  1. I recently bought some 420CC injectors to upgrade my 84-300ZXTurbo from the stock. I have a megasquirt efi system and wanted to now if I'm going to have to upgrade the fuel pump as well. I'm having trouble determining the math necessary and the specs on the stock pump.
  2. Hey can anyone show me where each color wire goes into the 2 harnesses for the power supply for the digital dash. Mine is damaged and I can make a new one but i need to know which color wires go where, I can't tell from what I have left and the electrical diagrams in the FSM doesn't have the color codes to the harness. It would suck to have to get a whole new digital dash just because the harness that comes off of it going to the power unit is smashed. I have some old computer parts and connectors for the power buttons and such to the Motherboard fit nice and snug on the dash power units' pins. At the very least if someone could just take some nice pictures of their harness, showing me all the colors, that would be sufficient. I don't know if the wire color scheme differentiated over the years but I have an 84' 300zxT thanks
  3. I apologize if it was wrong to post this in two different sections, but after i posted it in the z31 section i thought maybe it would be better looked at here.
  4. Hi, I have an 84 300zx turbo and for quite a while now (close to a year!!) i've been noticing a slight engine knock sometimes when i start the car up in the morning (I know thats awful to be just now addressing). It only happens after the car has been sitting for at least half a day or more, and if I give the car some initial cranks without letting it start up fully It starts with no knock or much less (I let the key go before any initial combustion if possible, but usually get a little combustion after the second or third time I tease it with the starter). I'm sure it has something to do with the oil or oil system because when it does knock the oil gauge starts from the bottom and as it moves up to normal pressure the knock fades away. Also when I manage to keep it from knocking the oil gauge starts right at normal pressure. The cars driveability or ability to start in general never has changed after I noticed this, which is my only excuse (be it a poor one) for waiting so long to fix this issue. I must add that while I can't say this for sure but I think I noticed this right after an oil change, but again thats just a hunch as it's been going on for a while and my memory isn't that great. I might have started out with non-synthetic the first 2-3 changes but I've pretty much always used synthetic 10w-30 in the car and lucas oil treatment if I could afford it, but at one point recently I realized I may have been putting a little too much oil in when I changed it, like a half quart or so, and I definitely thought of that after the sound started. Another note: I've installed a Megasquirt system (the old computer is completey gone and out of the car) to control my spark and fuel and never really tuned it past normal driving range (i never push the engine past 3000rpm) however I never noticed this problem while I was tuning it and even months to a year after tuning it and driving it around town alot. So I appreciate anybody actually reading this scattered timeline of my lazy idioacy, but I would love some info on similar issues and where I should start, like using a different oil/oil filter (it will do this with any oil filter even a K/N high performance) or the oil pump or sending unit. Perhaps all the fildling around I've done has caused some slight changes in the engine requiring different oil requirments, but I must re-iterate this only happens in the morning or after sitting for close to a day and add that the car runs and sounds nice at idle and in the range that i tuned it in, but this slight knock problem has been bothering me too much lately and I want to get it on the straight and narrow before I go back to tuning. thank guys
  5. i have an lc-1 wb and i'm using megasquirt 2.3 the afr reads well on my megasquirt but the afr reading is like 3 points richer when i upload it into megalogviewer someone tell me whats wrong or what i should check.
  6. the megasquirt doesn't show rpm neither does the tach. About the optical sensor though i thought about this as a problem and i swapped it out with the original 300zx sensor and wheel because they used to work and that CAS is actually brand new, it was a shame i blew like a $100 after realizing i needed to use a 280 CAS and Opti-wheel. Still no rpm signal. This all happened after a trip out of town to jacksonville, FL about an hour away. the car did great the way down but wouldn't crank when i went to leave the first place I stopped in town. after five min or so it did and drove around town and almost back home when it started misfiring a lot progressively worse and worse until it cut off. I let it sit for about an hour took the dizzy apart the CAS was pretty warm don't know if it was abnormal but after everything cooled down i put it back together and it cranked right up and i took it home. I drove it a few more times before it did the same thing again except this time it's not going to fix it's self haha. Seems to me like something is loose maybe or a part somewhere is giving out or burning up perhaps. I was playing around with the 2 CAS's i have checking the prongs with a multimeter meter and the 2 pins closest to the middle shows no continuity on the old 280 CAS but does on the Brand new 300 CAS. Seems like i did this before and didn't find a difference like this, so i thought maybe the 280 CAS was broken. Seems to me though if that was the case it would have worked when i swapped it with the original stuff because it would crank and run like that before just not well because of the 300 optical wheel having one big slit and five little ones. Originally i tried to use the 280 opti-wheel and the 300z CAS because it was new but it wouldn't give me rpm signal i had to use the one from the 280 luckily it all fit. One last thing to i only use one pull up resistor in my setup one the cas line before it goes to the megasquirt could this be causing problems?
  7. how would i know if my vb921 high current ign driver is burned out. i haven't been getting rpm signal one day suddenly and i haven't been able to figure out what went wrong seems like this is the last thing i could think to check.
  8. i fixed the issue it was the ground for the fuel pump still went through the old ecu. I made it a new ground and no probs at all wiper motor still doesn't work haha.
  9. thanx for the advice alot of people seem to think its a vacumm problem and i went back and put some periods in my post if that makes the punctuation any better for anyone else...sorry
  10. I am Selling this car and trying to Fix it as well either one if you can help me or buy the car from me just Read on. skip to the end for details my email is ultimatepoghero@yahoo.com if you want more info or my home phone is (912) 261-2196 i have a black 84 300zx turbo the other day i was testing my window wiper's which haven't been working and after i had no luck fixing that i went to crank the car and after starting it died in like 30 seconds. I've been running megasquirt in my car for a month with pretty much no problems maybe a hesitant start rarely. the FSM told me i had to remove the blower motor under the dash to get to the Time Control Unit to check the signal flow for the wiper motor and i had to remove that and unplug alot of things but nothing that i thought would effect the running of the car just stuff for the airconditioning. I even put all that back together and it still died after cranking. Wierd thing though is i unplugged the vacumm hose for the megasquirt from the car and the car stayed running for alot longer. I had to install megatune on a friend of mine's labtop because mine conveniently died that day to see if anything wasn't reading right on the ecu. The map reading seemed right although i still had to unplug it and increase the ve value at 101kpa so the car would stay running long enough for me to see anything and the only thing i noticed was my ego reading looked super lean i'm not sure because when i installed megatune on my friends labtop i set it up differently than mine. the ego meter reads from 10 to 19.9 i think instead of a percent like .01 to .9 but it read all the way to the left which was lean before but if it was displaying afr then a lower number would be richer i know i probably sound like i don't know what i'm talking about i didn't set up megatune on my labtop someone else did for me and i didn't have a wideband oxygen sensor then so i might have set it up to read differenlty because now i do. I checked to make sure the injectors were firing while the car was still on the main vacumm hose for the megasquirt didn't seem like it had leaks i realy don't know why the car decided to do this all of a sudden and i feel completely in the dark please someone tell me what to do besides check everthing or start over because this car is becoming realy high maintenance for me and i'm thinking about selling it so consider this an add too i put $4000 into this car i guess that or best offer considering it doesn't run sort of it was running great the megasquirt just needed to be tuned somemore and put on a dyno a new e-brake cable because the old one is stretched all the way and the window wiper's don't function obviously other than that i just put new shocks on it and the car is fine. please someone respond to this thread i am screwed right now.
  11. I am Selling this car and trying to Fix it as well either one if you can help me or buy the car from me just Read on. skip to the end for details my email is ultimatepoghero@yahoo.com if you want more info or my home phone is (912) 261-2196 i have a black 84 300zx turbo the other day i was testing my window wiper's which haven't been working and after i had no luck fixing that i went to crank the car and after starting it died in like 30 seconds. I've been running megasquirt in my car for a month with pretty much no problems maybe a hesitant start rarely. the FSM told me i had to remove the blower motor under the dash to get to the Time Control Unit to check the signal flow for the wiper motor and i had to remove that and unplug alot of things but nothing that i thought would effect the running of the car just stuff for the airconditioning. I even put all that back together and it still died after cranking. Wierd thing though is i unplugged the vacumm hose for the megasquirt from the car and the car stayed running for alot longer. I had to install megatune on a friend of mine's labtop because mine conveniently died that day to see if anything wasn't reading right on the ecu. The map reading seemed right although i still had to unplug it and increase the ve value at 101kpa so the car would stay running long enough for me to see anything and the only thing i noticed was my ego reading looked super lean i'm not sure because when i installed megatune on my friends labtop i set it up differently than mine. the ego meter reads from 10 to 19.9 i think instead of a percent like .01 to .9 but it read all the way to the left which was lean before but if it was displaying afr then a lower number would be richer i know i probably sound like i don't know what i'm talking about i didn't set up megatune on my labtop someone else did for me and i didn't have a wideband oxygen sensor then so i might have set it up to read differenlty because now i do. I checked to make sure the injectors were firing while the car was still on the main vacumm hose for the megasquirt didn't seem like it had leaks i realy don't know why the car decided to do this all of a sudden and i feel completely in the dark please someone tell me what to do besides check everthing or start over because this car is becoming realy high maintenance for me and i'm thinking about selling it so consider this an add too i put $4000 into this car i guess that or best offer considering it doesn't run sort of it was running great the megasquirt just needed to be tuned somemore and put on a dyno a new e-brake cable because the old one is stretched all the way and the window wiper's don't function obviously other than that i just put new shocks on it and the car is fine. please someone respond to this thread i am screwed right now.
  12. i have a black 84 300zx turbo. The other day i was testing my window wiper's which haven't been working. After i had no luck fixing that i went to crank the car and after starting it died in like 30 seconds. I've been running megasquirt in my car for a month with pretty much no problems maybe a hesitant start rarely. the FSM told me i had to remove the blower motor under the dash to get to the Time Control Unit to check the signal flow for the wiper motor and i had to remove that and unplug alot of things but nothing that i thought would effect the running of the car just stuff for the airconditioning. I even put all that back together and it still died after cranking. Wierd thing though is i unplugged the vacumm hose for the megasquirt from the car and the car stayed running for alot longer. I had to install megatune on a friend of mine's labtop because mine conveniently died that day to see if anything wasn't reading right on the ecu. The map reading seemed right although i still had to unplug it and increase the ve value at 101kpa so the car would stay running long enough for me to see anything and the only thing i noticed was my ego reading looked super lean. I'm not sure because when i installed megatune on my friends labtop i set it up differently than mine. the ego meter reads from 10 to 19.9 i think instead of a percent like .01 to .9 but it read all the way to the left which was lean before but if it was displaying afr then a lower number would be richer i know i probably sound like i don't know what i'm talking about i didn't set up megatune on my labtop someone else did for me and i didn't have a wideband oxygen sensor then so i might have set it up to read differenlty because now i do. I checked to make sure the injectors were firing while the car was still on the main vacumm hose for the megasquirt didn't seem like it had leaks i realy don't know why the car decided to do this all of a sudden and i feel completely in the dark please someone tell me what to do besides check everything or start over because this car is becoming realy high maintenance for me and i'm thinking about selling it so consider this an add too, i put $4000 into this car i guess that or best offer considering it doesn't run sort of, it was running great the megasquirt just needed to be tuned somemore and put on a dyno a new e-brake cable because the old one is stretched all the way and the window wiper's don't function obviously other than that i just put new shocks on it and the car is fine. please someone respond to this thread i am screwed right now.
  13. used the cas out of the 280z had to flip the optical wheel over everything works great!! and i'm off to tune!
  14. i've already tried the tape thing that is why i got the wheel out of the 280zxt because the tape idea noticably improved the situation just not 100% i figured it needed to be ultra percise and the 280zxt wheel was perfect identical slits all around and they even line up perfecty when i hold it next to the other wheel. everything seems to work perfectly when the resistor is doing its job im positive its just giving out in some way cuz thats the only thing i have to change to get it to work. I'm gonna try a lower wattage resistor because i was using one like that before and it worked for a loooong time before i figured out about this optical wheel thing the lead connectors just broke on it from me physically fiddling with it alot i would have re-used it if i could. If that doesn't work i'll try a 4 or 7 pin module and/or adding that second resistor and/or power transistor i'm not ready to start from scratch again just too many other things to at least give a try first, i just wanted someone to give me a point in the right direction, but Thank you for your help and effort.
  15. thank you for your feedback xander and your explanation on wattage, but its not that the i know for sure the resistor is getting hot it seems that when i check it with the multi meter when it's not working i get less resistance than i should (about 750 ohms from the 1K) and weird voltage readings out of the end going to the ecu like 5 or 8 when its all hooked up not 12 like it should and it does give 12v out both ends when its not hooked up, but after i left it alone and tried using the exta resistors i had i checked it again and it was reading 1k ohms again. if you think i have it hooked up wrong why did it work so well before when my optical wheel was causing misfires, i think maybe the proper and consistent signal is causing more stress on the resistor now what do you say. Should i try wiring up the power transistor again like in the blozup diagram or use a gm hei like the diagram i found in this forum, or is it the lack of the second 5v resistor before the coil after the ecu. I just find it so weird that this has become a problem all of a sudden now that i finally got that nice wheel with the identical slots which i thought was the only thing standing in my way of me properly tuning this car. When the number one cylinder was misfiring the car would run for so long that once the car started to run hot from revving the engine too much while parked while i was playing with MS settings and such.
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