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355datsun280z

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Everything posted by 355datsun280z

  1. So I'm thinking of getting one of the fiberglass dashes and was wondering what the conclusion on the fit was and if anyone has any pics of one in their car? Thank you
  2. Please post pictures of your z cars with chevy LS engine swaps with turbo setups on them.... I have a 77 280z with an old school carb 355 sbc built up buto this last week I totaled my 04 chevy work van with 4.8 and 4l80e and so it's gonna get swapped with a turbo setup into the car now that I have the motor and everything for the swap since I still have the complete van.I would love to see how people ran their turbos and piping and exhaust and just how different people do things and would love to get ideas from everyone. Plus who doesn't like looking at turbo chevy powered datsun thanks everyone and can't wait to see your engines and builds.
  3. Did anyone ever end up buying one of these cages?? I want to know how good they fit and see pics. Would love to order the 8 point
  4. Did anyone ever end up buying one of these cages?? I want to know how good they fit and see pics. Would love to order the 8 point
  5. I found your post about the r230 but can't find the wheels. Do you have a link to the wheels for sale or could you post a pic or what they are and price please. Also I'm located in Oregon, where are you located?
  6. Yeah I've read everything on the swap itself and knew of all the parts I would need for the swap and was hoping to get the whole rear end when I get one and have it be hub to hub so I would have the brakes and everything. I just wanted to make sure that when I do the swap I will still be able to install my rear sway bar back on and the struts and coil over. I know I won't be able to use some of the urethane bushings I've bought for the 280z which is fine. I just wanted to make sure I basically didn't waste 800-1000 bucks on the struts and sway bars and what not. And I didn't want to have to buy them over just to fit it to the r230. But sounds like you answered my question and knowing I will be able to use all the parts I've upgraded already so now it's time to start ordering parts from techno toys and keeping an eye out for a complete r230. Thank you for all the help
  7. Hello I'm looking for a set of rims that will be for my set of slicks. I'm running 26x10x15 and I'm looking for a set of 15x10 more than anything but would take 15x8 if you have wheels that size that will fit a flared 280z. Also looking for a complete rear end swap from a 1990-96 300zxTT r230 lsd. Please let me know if you have these items. I am located in Salem Oregon and willing to pay shipping
  8. Hello everyone and thank you for clearing this up for me..... I have a 1977 280z with a built small block Chevy pushing close to 700hp on nitrous and right now I have the stock 3.54 open diff but I welded it and made a Lincoln locker out of it. But also I have done all my suspension tokico illumina struts and ground control coilover and I've installed all urethane bushings and the rear msa big sway bar in the back. Now if I was to swap a r230 lsd 300zxTT 3.70 gears, would I then not be able to use my big sway bar in the rear and also would I still be able to use my struts and coil over and all the stuff I've upgraded and changed already. I spent so much money and time on picking out all the perfect parts and making the car exactly what I've wanted and I would love to do the 89 300zx turbo r200 lsd read but the price and availability has made me change my mind and has me looking at different options but it won't be an option if I can't reuse all the suspension things I've bought and installed. I know of the parts I would have to buy from techno toy tuning to complete the r230 swap but couldn't tell and haven't heard anyone say whether you are just changing the rear end and cv axles with the mustache bar and all the mounts while still using your "factory" 280z struts springs, sway bars and what not. Also when swapping will I be able to use the hubs off the 300zx and have 5 lug, but mainly I just want to make sure doing this swap won't make.me change all the custom partsbive already done and installed. Thanks again for all your answers I really appreciate it and hope i get the answer I want cause 3.70 gears instead of 3.54 will be amazing and a straight axle swap is not even and option cause I bought a z car to have the IRS and have a car that handles like it on rails.... Sbc or not .
  9. I have been searching on here for info. I just found zforce tonight and when searching on here for information is how I came up on this post. I was just simply asking on a hood post if anyone has ordered from zforce and if they ordered this hood and how fitments and issues they might have had.
  10. I think I found the hood you were looking for on a web site. Im actually wondering if anyone has ordered from this web site as well. I love the look of the hood and he also makes alot of other custom z car parts. http://www.zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=72. That is the url to the hood and web site. Any info would be great on ordering from this guy
  11. I am currenty running a 3 speed auto and that's why I want to stay with my 3.55 gears and right now I have the r200 with the u joints in the car but also have a new r200 with the cv joints and rear disk brakes that im gonna builf and put in the car. But I dint want to put it in the car until I put a lsd unit in it and upgrade some of the components like stronger parts and a bigger rear brake setup. Zfan1 not to bad running high tens with 388hp not bad. Really gives me hope that I will run in the 10s all motor and will get really deep.....hopefully the 9s with a 200-250hp shot of juice
  12. I am currenty running a 3 speed auto and that's why I want to stay with my 3.55 gears and right now I have the r200 with the u joints in the car but also have a new r200 with the cv joints and rear disk brakes that im gonna builf and put in the car. But I dint want to put it in the car until I put a lsd unit in it and upgrade some of the components like stronger parts and a bigger rear brake setup. Zfan1 not to bad running high tens with 388hp not bad. Really gives me hope that I will run in the 10s all motor and will get really deep.....hopefully the 9s with a 200-250hp shot of juice
  13. Yeah I know the th400 and 4l80e is almost the same tranny. So if 26" tire makes for a tall gear with my 3.55 geared rearend would it be better to run a taller tire like 28 or something or a shorter tire that's closer to stock or whatever. Cause the tires that sre on it now are bfg street drag radials on the rear and are like 24 inches tall and 7 inches wide. I think its like a 225/50/r15 cause the tires were bad on the rear when I got it and these are the only tires I had laying around from my z31 turbo car I raced and figured they would give me a little more traction than street tires that I would have to buy. But only want to run these until I get my rota rb 17x9.5. But need to install my rear flares first. Then im trying to figure out what wheels I wanna get for my drag slicks. I've tnought about getting a 15x8 and would love a 15x10 but not sure if they make them that would fit but I also thought about getting extra set of 17x9.5 and running MT et streets or the hoosiers with just that really small line that makes them dot which im not sure how. They look just like real slicks but run 275/40 17 slicks or do the 15x8 and run MT et slicks that are real wrinkle walls. That's what I really want but figured I would break alot of stuff with them hooking up lol
  14. I really do feel like with the setup im gonna be running that I will be able to get into the high 10s without the juice. Im very confident in my racing abilities and been racing for almost 10 years and I've gotten my 4400lb dodge dakota rt into the high 13s with some motor work and 100shot of nitrous while I was cutting. 02, .04, .06 lights everytime consistently. But my biggest issue will always be traction but going with some wrinkle walls should really help out in that department hopefully
  15. Thats awesome you guys. I love hearing more about v8 datsuns. As you can see from my pics that im running molded in fender flares so I will be able to put so real rubber underneath the car. I also forgot to mention that I have a 3000 stall in the tranny as well. My wheel and tire combo that I will be getting is the rota rb 17x9.5 rear and 17x9 front and will be running 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rear unless I can fit something wider on it like 295/35/17 or something. Not to sure yet. But I really want to get a 15x10 rim or atleast 15x8 and run some 26x10 slicks and I really want to get a set of mickey thompsons wrinkle walls to gain as much traction as possible. I really wish that I could make enough power to pop the front wheels up but doubt that will happen with my current setup. Thanks for the input so far and love hearing what other enthusiasts are doing as well. I really don't wanna stray to far from the 3.55 gears when I do get my lsd rearend, knowing mines a street/strip car. Dans toy what ford rear end are you running in your car right now? And also that means you don't have the independent rear suspension anymore? I spent way to much on all my suspension to put a straight axle under it and really like the cornering ability of my independent rearend like it is that I wouldn't want to change it out. Also once my car is on the road I will definetly go to a weigh station and see what it pulls down weight wise with me in it and pretty much in race trim. Also turbo meister what wheels were you running to get a 12" wide slick under your car and were you still running datsun rearend and "datsun rims" thanks guys
  16. Hello I have a 1977 280z that I've been building as a show and go car. I have a 355 sbc with all forged internally balanced internals, flat top pistons with 10:6:1 compression ratio and a comp cams magnum mechanical cam 2500-6500 rpm 248/248@.050 dur and. 525/.525 lift, high volume oil pump and weiand action plus water pump and edelbrock e-tec 200cc heads with some port/polish work and comp cams pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers ($330 a set) victor jr single plane intake manifold and holley 770cfm street avenger carb. Msd street fire hei distributor and mallory nitrous 6al ignition box and taylor 8mm pro wires. Also has a nos cheater setup for an added 100-250hp shot (hence the mallory nitrous ignition box for retarding the timing) and bottle heater w/ pressure regulator and purge system. Also has electric fans and electric fuel pump with my fuel cell and no power steering or anything. The only thing the motor powers is the water pump and alternator to free up as much hp as possible. All hooked up to a th400 tranny and a r200 3.55 geared posi rearend. All new urethane bushings and bigger sway bars and tokico illumina adjustable mr2 struts in front and 240z struts out back with ground control coilovers all around and toyota front brakes and steel braided brake lines. Im not sure what kind of power this setup will make me cause I haven't got it on the dyno yet but im hoping for 450+ on motor and I will put 100 shot behind it most of the time and once in awhile the 150-175 and just for kicks I have to do the 250 shot once. I wanna do the 250shot on the dyno once also to have a huge dyno sheet in the 650+hp range lol. But my main question for all you v8 z car guys is what kind of motor setup are you guys running and how much power are you putting down and when you have been to the track what kind of times have you put down? Ive done et calculators and im pretty sure im not gonna be doing high 10s with 450hp. But i really wanna get an idea of what other guys are running with their setups and hp. Thanks everyone for the feed back and feel free to post pics. Soon as i can i will
  17. I made mine out of 2x2 square tubing and 1/4in sheet metal for the motor mounts and parts off the factory mounts and the tranny was 1x1 square tubing with all grade 8 bolts. I didn't even touch jtr crap or see any of that crap. I don't like the jtr kit and where it places the motor and stuff. I think the motor sits way to far out and up in the engine bay with that kit. Its super simple to make the mounts and stuff for the swap yourself. Save yourself the money and just go get some throw away metal and make them yourself
  18. Mine was fairly cheap. I have a 77 280z and I made my engine mounts out of 2x2 square tubing and some 1/4 flat sheet metal I had laying around and also the made my own tranny mount out of 1x1 square tubing and bolts and stuff laying around the shop. Had to buy some grade 8 bolts and what not but I didn't buy any of that jtr crap. I didn't like how the motors fit and shoved so far out front in the engine bay. My distributor is only like a 1/4in from the fire wall and I had to remove my hood latch but I wanted hood pins anyways. So you figure for bolts and the tubing and flat sheet mteal for the engine mounts and tranny mounts cost less than 50 bucks and I had the driveline made for another 50 bucks and im running summit street rod or block hugger headers that were like 150 bucks or something and im running a stock radiator with a electric fan with shroud out of a volvo that fits from corner to corner on the radiator perfectly and it doesn't get hot at all. Takes 30 mins of idleing to get the thermostat to open just sitting there. But really if your looking at the cost of initial swap and your just talking about dropping the motor in and tranny in you can do it for under 250 bucks if you build the stuff yourself and not buy the stupid kit from jtr. Otherwise you can be nose heavy like everyone else out there and basically waste a ton of money on something that is soooo easy and cheap to make. Literally
  19. Hello and thanks for taking the time and helping me figure out my problem. I have a 1977 280z and right now I have black leather summit sport racing seats that are fully reclineable and are like sparco or recaro seats but are rather big, wide and heavy. My car didn't come with seats and I had those racing seats laying around from a old project I sold and thought they would look good and work perfectly with 4 points and everything not realizing I couldn't install door bars on my cage. They fit and are installed in the car but now that I need to build a cage they are to wide to install door bars. The upper bolsters hit the door when its closed and the pillar. Really I want to buy some real sparco seats and been looking at the sparco sprints or the speed seats but can't find the dimensions of either seat and was wondering if either of those seats would fit and be able to install door bars on my cage with them in the car. If anyone knows the dimensions and size of either of those seats please let me know and or if you installed them in your own car and have pics please download them on here and let me know how they worked out for you and if you have a cage installed in your car with door bars how much room did you have left. Thanks for all the help and advice.
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