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sfpar

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About sfpar

  • Birthday 07/01/1967

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  1. Thanks Bo. I'm going to monitor mine and make sure it's about the same. BTW, What are you guys showing as your normal op temp after warmup? My car seems the run at 206 degrees and the gage needle is in the middle. scott
  2. Thanks Phil. I checked mine again today and it was 86 at idle when I happened to look down. OAT was around 60 degrees. BTW, your car is coming around. Looks great. Finally got mine running pretty good @ 12lbs of boost. I really needed that MSD w/ boost retard. Looks like the widow will be placed in storage for a couple of years. I will be relocating to Japan. Figures, now I don't need any more parts.
  3. I'm curious to know what some of you intercooled guys are showing on your air temp. I am running about 190 and don't know if that is good or bad. Thanks.
  4. sfpar

    SDS users sign in

    Installed the SDS 4 fuel only this past winter in 78 280z w/ L28et engine. Pulled the old 78 NA computer and wiring out on drivers side. Old computer slot is where the SDS computer is housed. The install was a piece of cake and very straight forward. Seriously, if I can do it anyone can. Had some issues early on but the problem was my FPR not SDS. Anyway, did some other mods at the same time as well.....T3T4 turbo, 450cc injectors with palnet fuel rail. Here is what happened. Blew the headgasket and only pushing 12 lbs. boost. Why, timing issues. After researching this great site I learned that my rediculous mismatched set up of still having the 78 NA ignition was screwing me up. I needed some boost retard and could'nt get it. Therefore the head is pulled and valve stem seals replaced and it's all going back together this week. Boost retard will be managed by installing my newly used purchased MSD 6BTM and I should be good to go. Bottom line......Just get the fuel and spark.
  5. Yep, It's hooked up correctly. The directions were simple enough that even I couldn't mess it up.
  6. Thanks Warren. I will try another reputable FPR and go from there. Scott
  7. Hey Gents. Racetech called and said my computer is working fine and the injector I sent them is good as well. So much for that theory. Now they want me to see how much fuel is drained from the return fuel line in one minuetes time. I do have an aftermarket el cheapo adj. FPR from ebay. It looks good but maybe it is the problem. Here is the link to what I purchased. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300115163076QQrdZ1 Any other suggestions?? Thanks. Scott
  8. Thanks for clearing that up and hanging in there with me. Regarding the fuel pump. On a 78 my pump runs while cranking and then continuously after the start. I have checked it out and it is working properly. I even hooked a small 12v motorcycle batt directly to it just to make sure and no difference. We have checked voltage on the injectors and it is 12v with key on. Now, when cranking it does drop to 10 but then comes back up to 12 after start. You are correct Clifton. I am running an after market adjustable FPR that I purchased on Ebay. I have tried it at 38lbs and even cranked up the pressure to 55lbs. with no difference. I'm sorry I can't remember the make of the FPR as I purchased quite a while ago. I do have a pressure gage. I'm actually thinking of putting the AFM and old ecu back in. How bad is that?
  9. I went to my buddy's shop saturday, where the car is, to try a few things out. Warren first of all, I checked out the injector harness and I definitely have the resistor pack on the harness and it looks exactly like the image you posted. Sorry for the misinformation before. Could this be causing my problems? According to the above post it sounds like I should not have this resistor pack with my Low Imp. injectors, correct? Second, the BOV is not leaking any air and is functioning properly as far as I can tell. Third, on Saturday, I put the old fuel rail with my old N/A injectors in just to see what would happen. It ran the same as with the 450cc injectors. No difference at all. As a matter of fact, when the car warmed up it wouldn't start or run. I was able to start the car two different ways. First, by spraying starting fluid in the intake. Second, when I would take the ground off the injector harness and repetitively tap it on and off the car frame I could manipulate the opening of the injectors to keep it running, poorly, but running. I am sending unit back to Racetech for examination on Tuesday. Something tells me that the injectors are not receiving the signal from the computer to open/close properly. All other parameters read correctly on the hand held tuner. ie. Man press., RPM's, ET, AT, etc. That being said, the computer is receiving proper information but not sending it. I hope this is what Racetech finds when they check the box. Thanks for your help. Scott
  10. Tomorrow, I'm going to slap my old injectors in and see how it runs. I know those worked before and it's worth a shot. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it works out. Scott
  11. As I am racking my brain for possible culprits would it possibly have anything to do with a BOV I installed. I don't really hear leaks but it is one place that could be allowing extra air into the intake side. Just a thought. Scott
  12. should I try and pick up a set of supra injectors just to try them? I say supra because they are the cheapest on ebay these days that will fit my fuel rail from pallnet.
  13. It craps out whenever I floor it and will only rev up when gingerly pushing on the accelerator. Map settings are: 25 @ -23 and go to 203 @ 15 psi. -15psi.....47 -05psi.....80 05psi.......133 10psi.......170 15psi.......203
  14. I have it tapped into the fuel pressure reg. vacuum line. I'm pretty sure there are no leaks now. It sounds quiet. Earlier, I had a bad insulator on one of the injectors and it hissed like crazy but it has been resolved. Here is what the Racetech tech replied when I sent him your guys ideas... Good observation on the map sensor. Power up SDS but dont start the engine. Push gauge button and tell me what MP reading is. If it reads close to zero then things are okay. good thinking on your part here. It does read close to zero. Injector imp, not enough to cause this problem, but if you have an ohmmeter then best measure one inj and let me know. I've run low imp setup but actually had high imp injectors in one of my cars, could not tell either.... -B.
  15. That is kinda what I was going to track next. COuld it be possible that SDS sent me the injector harness for a High impedence injector? Scott
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