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Thanks Bo. I'm going to monitor mine and make sure it's about the same. BTW, What are you guys showing as your normal op temp after warmup? My car seems the run at 206 degrees and the gage needle is in the middle. scott

Thanks Phil. I checked mine again today and it was 86 at idle when I happened to look down. OAT was around 60 degrees. BTW, your car is coming around. Looks great. Finally got mine running pretty good @ 12lbs of boost. I really needed that MSD w/ boost retard. Looks like the widow will be placed in storage for a couple of years. I will be relocating to Japan. Figures, now I don't need any more parts.

I'm curious to know what some of you intercooled guys are showing on your air temp. I am running about 190 and don't know if that is good or bad. Thanks.

Installed the SDS 4 fuel only this past winter in 78 280z w/ L28et engine. Pulled the old 78 NA computer and wiring out on drivers side. Old computer slot is where the SDS computer is housed. The install was a piece of cake and very straight forward. Seriously, if I can do it anyone can. Had some issues early on but the problem was my FPR not SDS. Anyway, did some other mods at the same time as well.....T3T4 turbo, 450cc injectors with palnet fuel rail. Here is what happened. Blew the headgasket and only pushing 12 lbs. boost. Why, timing issues. After researching this great site I learned that my rediculous mismatched set up of still having the 78 NA ignition was screwing me up. I needed some boost retard and could'nt get it. Therefore the head is pulled and valve stem seals replaced and it's all going back together this week. Boost retard will be managed by installing my newly used purchased MSD 6BTM and I should be good to go. Bottom line......Just get the fuel and spark.

Yep, It's hooked up correctly. The directions were simple enough that even I couldn't mess it up.

Thanks Warren. I will try another reputable FPR and go from there. Scott

Hey Gents. Racetech called and said my computer is working fine and the injector I sent them is good as well. So much for that theory. Now they want me to see how much fuel is drained from the return fuel line in one minuetes time. I do have an aftermarket el cheapo adj. FPR from ebay. It looks good but maybe it is the problem. Here is the link to what I purchased. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300115163076QQrdZ1 Any other suggestions?? Thanks. Scott

Thanks for clearing that up and hanging in there with me. Regarding the fuel pump. On a 78 my pump runs while cranking and then continuously after the start. I have checked it out and it is working properly. I even hooked a small 12v motorcycle batt directly to it just to make sure and no difference. We have checked voltage on the injectors and it is 12v with key on. Now, when cranking it does drop to 10 but then comes back up to 12 after start. You are correct Clifton. I am running an after market adjustable FPR that I purchased on Ebay. I have tried it at 38lbs and even cranked up the pressure to 55lbs. with no difference. I'm sorry I can't remember the make of the FPR as I purchased quite a while ago. I do have a pressure gage. I'm actually thinking of putting the AFM and old ecu back in. How bad is that?

I went to my buddy's shop saturday, where the car is, to try a few things out. Warren first of all, I checked out the injector harness and I definitely have the resistor pack on the harness and it looks exactly like the image you posted. Sorry for the misinformation before. Could this be causing my problems? According to the above post it sounds like I should not have this resistor pack with my Low Imp. injectors, correct? Second, the BOV is not leaking any air and is functioning properly as far as I can tell. Third, on Saturday, I put the old fuel rail with my old N/A injectors in just to see what would happen. It ran the same as with the 450cc injectors. No difference at all. As a matter of fact, when the car warmed up it wouldn't start or run. I was able to start the car two different ways. First, by spraying starting fluid in the intake. Second, when I would take the ground off the injector harness and repetitively tap it on and off the car frame I could manipulate the opening of the injectors to keep it running, poorly, but running. I am sending unit back to Racetech for examination on Tuesday. Something tells me that the injectors are not receiving the signal from the computer to open/close properly. All other parameters read correctly on the hand held tuner. ie. Man press., RPM's, ET, AT, etc. That being said, the computer is receiving proper information but not sending it. I hope this is what Racetech finds when they check the box. Thanks for your help. Scott

Tomorrow, I'm going to slap my old injectors in and see how it runs. I know those worked before and it's worth a shot. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it works out. Scott

As I am racking my brain for possible culprits would it possibly have anything to do with a BOV I installed. I don't really hear leaks but it is one place that could be allowing extra air into the intake side. Just a thought. Scott

should I try and pick up a set of supra injectors just to try them? I say supra because they are the cheapest on ebay these days that will fit my fuel rail from pallnet.

It craps out whenever I floor it and will only rev up when gingerly pushing on the accelerator. Map settings are: 25 @ -23 and go to 203 @ 15 psi. -15psi.....47 -05psi.....80 05psi.......133 10psi.......170 15psi.......203

I have it tapped into the fuel pressure reg. vacuum line. I'm pretty sure there are no leaks now. It sounds quiet. Earlier, I had a bad insulator on one of the injectors and it hissed like crazy but it has been resolved. Here is what the Racetech tech replied when I sent him your guys ideas... Good observation on the map sensor. Power up SDS but dont start the engine. Push gauge button and tell me what MP reading is. If it reads close to zero then things are okay. good thinking on your part here. It does read close to zero. Injector imp, not enough to cause this problem, but if you have an ohmmeter then best measure one inj and let me know. I've run low imp setup but actually had high imp injectors in one of my cars, could not tell either.... -B.

That is kinda what I was going to track next. COuld it be possible that SDS sent me the injector harness for a High impedence injector? Scott

Thanks guys for replying. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to spend 5 mos and all that dough on upgrades only to end up with a large paper weight. First of all, the injectors. I was told these were DSM blue top 450cc's and of course they were advertised as such. They came from a company that refurbs/cleans/flowtests injectors. So, at the suggestion of SDS I then decide to call the folks at witchhunt.com. I read the numbers on the side of the injector to him, which are B450L, and he said "yep, those are 450cc low impedence injectors". Map Values.....the fuel map values available on this system is between 1 and 250. When SDS put my system together they took my 450cc injectors and pre-set it with that in mind. That being said, I should have RPM values around 80. I have it barely running at 250 the max. MAP sensor.....I have the 2 bar MAP sensor. I have not really changed those settings yet because I'm not exactly boosting here. Once again, thanks for your input. This is not an easy fix or if it is, I can't see it. Scott

Okay, no more intake or fuel leaks and it starts. Here is the problem. It barely runs and when I give it gas it wants to die. The numbers I have dialed in are crazy high (240-250 across the board) and if I try to lean it out, it dies. Talked to SDS and they are saying my injectors are acting like 160cc instead of the 450cc DSM injectors I think I have. I checked the fuel pump and it is running and I am also getting good fuel pressure according to the gauage. Could someone allow me to send pic of my injector and see if maybe it is a lower flowing one (I doubt it). I'm at a loss here and don't know what else to try next. On a side note, I may be comparing apples to oranges here but one thing I noticed is that my old barb style NA injectors seem to have a larger oriface for allowing fuel as opposed to these DSM 450cc injectors. I don't know a lot about injectors and it was just an observation. Also, it may not make much difference but the old injectors, when mounted, go deeper into the manifold than the DSM injectors. I really don't want to buy new injectors but what else can I try. SDS guys are pretty much done with their support. I really need some help on this and if anyone lives or is cruising through the cincinnati area I could use a hand. Thanks. Scott

It started today....yippee. It runs like crap but it's a start. It wants to die when I give it any throttle but noticed a major intake leak due to one of the injector o rings failure. Once I get that fixed I'm hoping to be able to tune a bit.

You know Tim now that you mention it, the plugs seemed rather dry when pulled. I don't think my injectors are allowing enough fuel in. I am going to pull the rail this week and check. Either the signal is not getting to the computer(hence the new tach adapter) or injectors are faulty(highly unlikely. yes they are used but they were completely overhauled by rep. co.). Could a bad ground on the injector wire harness cause this? I will switch ground locations just to see. Thanks. Scott

Hey Scottie, I chose to do fuel only sds because it would be easier and lessen the chances of me not getting this car going. How funny is that?

It just sort of sputters. I have already pulled a wire while cranking and there is definitely spark. As far as the fuel goes I can't be positive but it sure smells like fuel is going in. I guess I could pull the rail and see if they squirt. Thanks.

Okay, It's been 5 mos. since my car ran and I am really starting to question my decision to upgrade to SDS. Here is the setup: 1978 280z L28eT engine intercooled 60mm throttle body T3/04 turbo 450cc dsm injectors palnet rail sds fuel only 1978 ignition w blaster 2 coil It's all installed but car won't run. SDS recommended installing the autometer tach adapter which I did. Now the car starts for 2 seconds and dies. I have played with different fuel numbers at the lower rpm range and no luck. I have a fuel pressure gauge and it shows 38-40lbs. I even hooked up a seperate 12V batt to the pump just to have it continuously run. What can I say, am I missing anything. Also have 12v to the injector harness while cranking (it does drop to 10v while cranking but comes back to 12V). The SDS guys are stumped. Not good. Thanks.

from your pic it looks like the member sent you the downpipe with the turbo rear cover still attached. Hard to tell from that angle. Never the less, I have a zxt turbo downpipe if you need it. I just went custom with t3/t4.

Hi All, Just finished installing the SDS and the car won't start. I have spark and fuel to the rail but the injectors do not seem to be receiving the signal to allow fuel. I have the green sds/coil wire hooked to neg. coil as prescribed but no luck. Anyone ever run across this? FYI, I did take same green wire and tap it back and forth from + to - side of coil and could hear the injectors click. Setup is 78z distributor/ignition only change is MSD masterblaster II coil 82zturbo engine

Well, I have power to the pump and all is well on the fuel delivery BUT, I can't get the car started. Everything powers up as it should, I have fuel, I have spark, the injectors are not opening. I can get them to open by taking the green wire and moving it back and forth on the pos and neg posts of the coil but when cranking, they dont seem to be operating. Any Ideas??? Thanks.