King's Evil

I am about to call them. I am going to sell my wheel set to fund these wheels. My wheel set on my Datsun isn't cheap. When it come to tires for me, I must have top notch tires. I have too many cheap tires problem in the past with my 1968 Ford Thunderbird, can't have these problem on the Z. I am selling my wheels for $1200 on the listing, they are the widest wheels you could fit on a stock suspension 240Z. This made me think now.. If those rims are perfect, they would be great for the back. Now, I would want to get 17x12 for the front after the front suspension upgrade, the problem is I already bought my stage 4 Big Brake kit for the front with the factory Datsun bolt pattern. I could have them make the 17x12 with the Datsun bolt pattern, but I would worry if the wheels will hold on. Will this be a problem to be missing just one more bolt on the front?

You are a hero Goth. Thanks a bunch! These are what I am exactly looking for, for some reason I thought diamond racing make these wheels. They aren't bad on the price considering I can have any bolt pattern and back spacing. This is the Z I saw online, been looking everywhere for these exact wheels (whoever own this Z, its beautiful!) Normally, I don't even like anything over 16" for rims for our cars, but these looks great, and not much bling. Plus, they don't have much option on wider tires for 16, have to bump it up to 17 for the tires I need. One thing concern me, since these are offroad wheels, they may not be balanced or have the true center bolt holes. I might have vibration on low speeds, should I worry about something like this? This Z is going to be my daily driver. I am aware that the TT will need lower compression or it would just blow. The TT setup will be in for a long long time from now. Just going to leave the motor stockish, for now. I haven't really got the chance to get the feel out of the car completely yet. It's already beaten few Dodge Neon SRTs, and other little cars just quarter throttle.

Well, called Diamond Racing wheels, they don't do any 17" rims anymore and haven't updated their site. What a bummer. I am in the market for some old steel 17" GM bolt pattern rims and have it widen by weldcraft. Anyone got a old pair, hit me up! Not having much luck with ebay and craigslist.

I wanted to try to build the LT-1 the best as I can when money allows, making it into a monster with twin turbo. I am set with 335/35-17 rear tires for the new rearend, and I might be getting a pair of 17x14 rims from Diamond Racing. I hear many good things about them, and they seem cheap too. They are steel rims, but should keep the weight down the back a bit, and the lt1 should handle the rotational mass just fine. I will be taking apart the LT-1 once I get my tax return, I hope the cylinder walls looks clean. I am going for Mr.Gasket head gasket (part #5716G) which as a .026 compressed thickness, the stock ones has about .050, it will increase compression along with the head mill down. I always hear it's always good to run higher compression, but how about on a ol' stock lt1 like mine. Think it's a good idea? They even say running a thinner head gasket reduce the chance of having a blow out. I was reading some where on the forums that they say if you run a thick head gasket, it's like sticking your hand out at 70mph vertically where all that force blowing your hand away. Now, if you stick your hand out horizontally there less resistant of your hand blowing away.

Thanks for the helpful information. I am hoping that once I take the heads off, I could tell the condition of the rings buy checking the cylinder walls. If they're clean, I would assume they're fine, if any deep scratches or so, well.. reboring, might as well rebuild. The LE3 heads are ported heads by Lloyd Elliott, he makes LE1, LE2, and LE3 for the LT1 and LS1. He work on your heads when you shipped them to him, he also would do your intake. He seems to really know his stuff about porting and cam selection, alot of LT1 guys on the forums really like this guy. His work isn't cheap, that why I was a little bumed out my engine didn't last long, I was hoping it last so I don't go for a budget build. Anyways, Check out Lloyd Elliott, he's the man when you want some serious power out of your factory LT-1 head. Also talk to him about your setup, he would tell you what cam you should run. http://elliottsportworks.com/ Quick question, I might throw in a bigger cam once I start tearing the block down to a short block. I already bought new 24lb Venom Injectors, if I go with a bigger cam, will I need bigger injectors? If that would be the case I have to skip the cam, these injectors weren't cheap.

Spoke with the local machine shop, he suggested just do that too. Might as well get the heads checked and resurfaced while at it. Maybe this is the cause of the rich fuel smell too, and the slight misfire at times when idling. I am going to use the impalas head gasket, they are almost half as thin as the oem which can increase compression. If she runs good, I'll have a shop cage the car then the rear end swap. I am thinking of creating a pushrod rear suspension for the Z, the coilovers will be mounted on the cage inside the car. While the Z is caged, I might have a better area to mount the rear end, but not sure yet. I am still brainstorming designs for the rear end.

You are going to laugh because I made the mistake of using 6 volt bulbs instead of 12 volt bulbs. They were blown, spent hours and hours on the electrical. Doh! Well, I did end up using a nice set lED lights which cant blow out easily. Sad new, the LT-1 blew the head gasket (or a big head gasket leak) on one morning. I was just finishing up with the swap, put a new 300 miles on her and was about to call her my new Daily driver, until I noticed steam of white smokes went all over inside the car. I thought I was just smoking too much cigarette, lol. Pulled her over, she was steaming white smoke around the header collector area on the pass side. I am just trying to see if I should do a rebuild or just change the head gasket on the 144k motor and hope it last a year. This was way too soon, I was expecting it to last a year till I could afford a 383 rebuild with lE3 heads, ported intake, Forged crank, forged H rods, 242/248 .584/.579 110 LSa cam by Lloyd Elliott. The compression reads about 30% from all cylinders, here's my compression chart; 1#210 2#180 3#185 4#180 5#215 6#175 7#195 8#165 Normally, I would just fix it completely, but as money allows I can't do much since the rebuild was planned for next year. What do you guys think, should a head gasket replacement should make her last a bit? She is not making any blue smoke, black smoke. Just white steam of smoke. She always runs great, just a little bit rumblely.

You are going to laugh because I made the mistake of using 6 volt bulbs instead of 12 volt bulbs. They were blown, spent hours and hours on the electrical. Doh! Well, I did end up using a nice set lED lights which cant blow out easily. Sad new, the LT-1 blew the head gasket (or a big head gasket leak) on one morning. I was just finishing up with the swap, put a new 300 miles on her and was about to call her my new Daily driver, until I noticed steam of white smokes went all over inside the car. I thought I was just smoking too much cigarette, lol. Pulled her over, she was steaming white smoke around the header collector area on the pass side. I am just trying to see if I should do a rebuild or just change the head gasket on the 144k motor and hope it last a year. This was way too soon, I was expecting it to last a year till I could afford a 383 rebuild with lE3 heads, ported intake, Forged crank, forged H rods, 242/248 .584/.579 110 LSa cam by Lloyd Elliott. The compression reads about 30% from all cylinders, here's my compression chart; 1#210 2#180 3#185 4#180 5#215 6#175 7#195 8#165 Normally, I would just fix it completely, but as money allows I can't do much since the rebuild was planned for next year. What do you guys think, should a head gasket replacement should make her last a bit? She is not making any blue smoke, black smoke. Just white steam of smoke. She always runs great, just a little bit rumblely.

I'll give it my best on the write up, I just wanted do something cheaper and different than the general R200 we use. My electrical problems arise again, it seems simple but hard to trace out. When I turn on my parking light, my front parking light lits up, and my rear parking light wont lit up, turn on headlights same thing, but no parking lights. My brake, blinker and flasher works in the rear. Is there some kind of switch could go bad for the rear running lights? They seem just went out, my buddy was following me around and told me my running lights was out. I did put on some temporary off road lights on the car just the sake not being pulled over, I merged them with the headlights, I remembered my running light were working in the back. I removed the relay tray on the passenger side, I thought they are ac relays, I place my PCM there instead, I made sure the main wire from the rear wasn't disconnected. It seem something was unplugged for the running light, I did cut up the voltage regulator since I didn't need it, does the voltage regulator has to do something for the rear running lights?

Thanks Gothalosim! Those are what exactly I am looking for. Here's a vid of the car going 120mph from a rolling stop, it's on facebook, hope you guys can see it. I am actually going 25% throttle, I forgotten that I limited my throttle body halfway from the pedal for the sake of saving the rear end. So, I already bought the 1998 Jaguar Rear end for $330 on ebay. The starting bid was really low, and the descriptions doesn't have alot of information. Won it anyways, called the guy about it, it has the 3.54 Gearing with LSD (called Jag dealership to be sure), and he is throwing a little bit extra stuff because he really admired my project. He is including a drive line, a bearing, two white leather jaguar seats with power everything, and bunch of Emblems from the Jaguar. Maybe even more. I got this rear end because, well its a awesome deal, and it looks very doable for the Z. Since the Jag is an steel rear, it will be cheaper to narrow it if I wanted to, I live right next to a welding shop that does drivelines. Right now I just have to play a waiting game for the rear end to come. I have to put this rear end in the car ASAP, the original rear end has way too much play on the half shaft and drive shaft now, and strange vibrations appears on certain speeds. I put new venom injectors on the LT-1, boy the car runs better than before. Smoother idle, less rich exhaust. But still runs a bit rich, hoping it just because the exhaust is a little tucked in a bit into the car. Updates are coming for the rear end installation.

Gave my car few fast runs, 0 to 120 mph less than few seconds. Will upload a vid of it soon, pretty scary. It feels like when I floor it almost all the way the rear feels like its hoping, causing the whole car to shake. Dunno that's just the rear end itself or the suspension just worn. I been looking for a R200 around everywhere, just there no seriously cheap ones out there, even non lsd ones. I figured to just try something different. My next step for the Datsun is getting rear end swap, I found a 1998 Jaguar XJ8 complete IRS for really dirt cheap on ebay and most likely going for this route. The Jaguar rear is a rare 3.54 Gearing and it has a limited slip. Looks like a proper rear end for my setup. I am going to redesign how the springs would mount and make it adjustable. Where can I find those special links that you could adjust (example images below), I want to find these style adjustable links and weld bolts on to the Jag arms to adjust the camber and caster. I seen alot of people use these style links, they looks like they have no brushing, just a bearing ball, how does these hold up? Example Arizona Z car uses these style links on their control arms. The Jag rear end is a bit wide 60" hub to hub, if I can find the proper wheels it should stick out about 2-6 inches wider where my original wheels sit. I wanted make a wide body out of fiberglass for this Z anyways. I feel this is very doable swap for me, just need some source for special links. For your guys help, I'll post step by step pictures for those who ever is interested in doing this swap.

I'll remove it after the I find out more of my wiring problems. My wiring enemy has returned for more, my blinkers are started to act funny when I turn left. Flasher seem to work, but the blinkers is slowly failing when the more I drive it. I am going to do my intake gasket today hoping I can solve the leak, I read many tried it for the first time it would still leak. Again, I am always looking for different options for the rear end. The Jag rear has a track width of a 61.5, while the 240Z looks like to be a 57.5. Which isn't to bad for rear fiberglass flares. I might ditch the Jag IRS idea, even tho it look like a really good swap, the gear ratio on that Jag is 2.88. I am still new with gear ratios, and kinda got the idea what they do. I think the lower number will spin the wheels faster, and I probably can't reach freeway speed safely with that kind of gearing. The Jag has a Dana 44, and to change the gears inside of them seem really pricey. If I can find their factory 3.54 gears, I might go for it. Right now I am looking at a complete IRS from a R33 Supra, little pricey but looks good. What rear gearing do you guys recommended for this 2400lb car with the T56. Like stated before the car is going to be my daily driver with some occasional racing at the local race track. Racing will range to track, drifting, and drag racing. What the lowest and highest I would go for?

When you say gut it, meaning to remove it, or empty it out?

The open exhaust, the 02 is about 6 inches from the open exhaust, not enough reading for the air/fuel mixture. That make sense. I also noticed when I drove this thing 21 miles, the gas in the tank doesn't seem to move down a inch. Great gas mileage is coming its way. Oh yeah, that 21 mile trip was down in the country road for the first time in 6 months, everything went well except for the rear end is acting up, It made a (bang sound from a stop) and making more vibration than ever. The leak on the intake/ or the oil sensor is worsting up enough to make a slight smoke, and I found a leak on my slave cylinder spacer(?), there's a little red oil on the side near the slave cylinder. I don't know if near that spacer area is circulated with transmission oil or clutch fluid oil? I found a really good deal on a IRS LSD out of a 85 xjs jaguar, what you guys think about these IRS? When I first looked at this rear end, I already liked the look of it, the disc brakes near the differential, the heavy duty look on it, and it must be strong since it's powered by a 12V car.

Got a dumb question. Do I need the voltage regulator? What does this thing do exactly? It would be nice to get rid of this big ugly thing if it's not necessarily to have.

I wanted to share two videos with you guys. The first video was when my car third successful 14 miles trip to my buddies house. His dad knows too much about cars, that when I had him to check out my brake light wiring, and check around the car. The car was open headers in this video. The second video is slightly off topic but related in some what ways. My buddy wanted me to post his red neck body building video to us Datsun "boys", lol. He's a good guy. Oh yeah, those oldsmobiles, I am taking their mufflers so the Datsun can be nice and quiet like a rat mouse in a church.

Hey guys, a little update. I got my exhaust system in today. I am running 2.25 H pipes. It's straight piped for now, hopefully on Sunday I'll get some Oldsmobile mufflers from my buddies cars. So the car runs a lot smoother, I have even more get up and go, less back pressure I guess. It sounds really, really good. Here some pics for ya'll. I had a shop to do it for me since they really liked my car, and gave me a killer deal. My next mod is getting some headlights, then gauges, and then a rear end. If anyone selling a R200 LSD assembly cheap hit me up! Otherwise I'll go for the C4 IRS. Anyone knows the difficulty of installing a custom headlight? The one I wanting feels really different, and it looks like I need to cut some holes to make it fit.

I have plenty of time to look and think about it. I do enjoy a challenge of making things work. If I can find a complete R200 rearend cheap, I would consider it, but If I do find a Complete C4 IRS cheap I would consider it aswel. I do not plan narrowing the C4 IRS, I read that it's only 4 inches wider than the Datsun IRS. I'll be making some wide quarter panels out of fiberglass in the rear, beefy tires, and wheels with the right offset so it wont stick out so much.

Well Guys, the swap is successively complete. I am really proud since it was my first successful project. I wanted to make this forum my build page. So you guys can follow up, help me with some of the stuff, and who knows maybe it will help you guys for your projects. There seems to be no problem with the LT-1 and T56 after I started driving it. It runs flawlessly. I only have two problems now, the intake leaks little bit oil from the rear driver side, and my T56 tranny requires a bit of wrestling to get it shifted in reverse gear. The lights problems was simple. I wasn't getting any ground for the light, that explains why it wasn't giving the full lit for the rear lights. I simply cut one of the ground wire in the rear, and hook it up to the nearest ground in the back, boom, I got my full brake lights. Once we hooked the ground, my low beam headlight blew out, only my high beam work now. Bummer. My next mod is getting my car some Halo lights in the front. Instead having the white ring around the headlights. I am going to do amber rings or maybe red rings for the parking and blinkers, I think that would look really cool! Sooner or later I'll put some headlight covers on there, while at night, the ring light would glow around the cover, would be sick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/310379795568?item=310379795568&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr#ht_10714wt_1037 The car is loud, way too loud. I can only idle to keep the sound low around the street so I won't get pulled over. So, I am going to make a true dual exhaust setup, I am going for H pipe setup, because I loved how H pipes gives it a muscle car tone. I don't like how the X pipes made the car sound ricy in the higher end. The goal for my exhaust system is to make it quiet as possible for the sleeper effect, and electronic cutouts side exhaust for racing mode. I am going to use two glass packs for resonators, and two Oldsmobile 88 mufflers, with 2.25 exhaust pipes. My next mod is getting a strong rear end. The stock rearend feel like it's near the end of its life. It vibrate on the lower speed and higher speed. I noticed my tires are wearing out really fast ever since I when started driving this thing again, it not because it done peel outs, its the vibration. The drive-line turn too much when its parked So I am still thinking about different rearend swap. I might do a R200, or a Corvette C4 IRS, I am leaning toward to the C4 IRS. The corvette IRS seem cheaper in the long run and stronger. The whole setup has adjustable camber and toe adjustment, bigger CV shafts, disc brakes. The R200 rearend, I would need disc brakes, need to get adjustable arms, coil overs, lots more. I feel if I can find a C4 IRS it would be worth it in the long run. I am a fabricator, so it should be fun. I found a really good write up for the C4 rearend swap here http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Swapping%20a%20C4%20Corvette%20IRS%20Into%20a%20240Z_files-Scottie/Swapping%20a%20C4%20Corvette%20IRS%20Into%20a%20240Z.htm After the rear end swap, I am going to give the girl a 12 point roll cage. Making the car into a full caged car. It is really scary seeing the car flex so easily with the new engine.

When I remove some of the bulbs on the rear, they get brighter. So its okay visible. When I disconnected the one tail light harness, the other light get really bright, connected the other one again, goes real dim. Now, I discovered a new problem. When I turn on the blinkers for the left and then right side, both rear flash at the same time as if it is in hazard mode, while the front blinkers are flashing on its one side. I know I put the fuse right, I even sand paper the connectors. I used a glass type fuse that hold 20 and 10 amps. I checked all the possible connectors, they are all in place. Please help me on this, I don't want to get pulled over for non working lights, and my skills arnt too good with electrical.

Do you mean reversed like having the connectors flipped? I took care while putting them on, they have those little slot to put them on right so I put them on like that. I wiggle the connectors see if it wasn't fully connecting, still no lights. I'll double check it, its the long rectangle connector go to the rear right? I tried many possible ways to get it to work, even got new bulbs for the rear, still no light.. Well... It make a very very slight dim. Some time while driving, the blinker don't always work, it just give a dim lit while not flashing. Is it possible for the new charging system is making the light won't work in the rear? This thing does peel out like crazy in the second gear, after a 13 mile trip, and a little throttle happy to the block to my drive way, I noticed my passenger rear tire was steaming smoke, and some of the threads went down, holy smoke! I noticed it like to spin tires in second gear. Never had anything that do a peel out by command. Also my rear end always does this, when you put your hand on the drive shaft to turn it, it wiggles a little, it turn about 10 degree while it parked. Is this mean my rear end bad, does it need fluid (it leaks a bit ever since I got it) Do the T56 tranny reverse gear is usually hard to shift in to? It take a bit of wrestling to shift it to Reverse.

Found out something else. When I hit the brake pedal, while it on position and head lights off. The dash would lit up every time I press down the brake.

I get a very very low reading from the tail light when its on flasher mode. Some of them goes 0.12 volt to 1 volt

Thanks for all of your help guys, now my car is officially driving and running fantastic. Scary fast and loud. Gotta get an exhaust system soon! Being deaf while the car is open headers is amazingly eargasum. Them police around here get pretty bored. Took it for a first trip to auto zone, and fill up the tank for the first time. Good feeling. Still, I gotta get gauges and all to see the engine statues. I was hoping you guys can help me with this; my light aren't working like they should be. Before I pull the old L24 out, flashers, blinkers, brake lights all works. Now, I have this new motor in. My front blinkers work partly the same, head light works, emergency flashers works, my brake light do not work at all, some times they produce a slight dim, very slight dim. When I turn on the head lights, my blinkers wont work, it just stay lit. I have not cut any of the original datsun wiring, except for wiring the lt1 harness to the ignition key. I changed all the fuse, some where blown. So I replace those, I noticed some of the stuff got brighter, but still no brake lights, and no working blinkers when head lights are on. Should something should be connected, I tried to hook everything back together from memory. Any help?

I'll look for the new gauge kit with the sensor included, they got some nice one at summit with the red digital ones. They will thin the wallet tho. Good news, The car finally drove today, It was scary fast. Battery died after we were done driving it around the block, Haha. We tried to wire the alternator, tried many different wires, hand spinning it. We couldn't get any reading from the $200 volt meter my buddy has. Does the alternator need to be spun faster in order to get an reading? We think its the solid yellow wire that should be connected so we hooked it up, and I'll go to auto-zone tomorrow to find the right belt, hopefully it charge. Also there's coil looking thing from the wiring to the original alternator, it has only one green wire to it. Is it needed? Anyone know what size belt I should run? I have the power steering delete and the ac delete. Some of the light's work now, headlight works good. I don't have any brake lights now. When I pressed down my brakes, my dash lits up, My blinkers isn't working like it should, but the flasher works only if the headlights, and parking lights are off.