King's Evil

Hey guys, I am about to finish up my cooling system, and just started the fan wiring. I am making a manual switch on fans. Since the radiator is in a 40 degree angle, I would need to rely on my temperature gauge to see how hot the car is running. Will the stock temperature gauge will work with the lt1 stock temperature sensor? Which wire on the datsun wire harness is from the temperature gauge?

For the fuel system, on the LT1LS1 forums, they say I should have some kind of venting on my fuel cell. I have an open hole out of a hose on top. It would create vacuum and causing all my fuel to rush back into the cell. They said the LT-1 original fuel system is almost sealed. I fear of sealing up my fuel cell because I don't want the thing to balloon up, that would be an scary image when I look at the rear view mirror. Is there any sort of venting I should look for? I seen a 8AN fitting fuel venting with a roll over valve, have it coil out of the cell with few loops and out of the car so gas dont leak out completely.

That's really weird, I tried many different ways to fit it on there. Thanks goth for sending those pictures. I heard you could switch pulley to a 2.5" pulley with the 6 groove So you don't have to cut anything. I was going to do that, but I decided to modify my pulley since I get very impatient. Paying shipping, for return, and buying another hoping it fit, get a different pulley, and all. So I modify the one I have. I cut the one end off, flip it on the side I have more than one inch of clearance from the frame and clears the belts. One thing I worry about it's strength, I made it strong as possible. The alternator shouldn't take much drag to bend and twist the pulley, right? I just remembered, I shortened and backed out the Datsun original mount towers and used the thinnest 350 motor mount, so the lt1 really sits really low and back on the Z. Maybe that why I had fitment issues. I did this because I want the lowest center of gravity as possible, and have enough room for a big turbo or super charger on top of the motor while keeping the hood stock appearance. Here's some pics.

I am going to get a better gauge before I take stuff apart, I was using a autozone rent a one. I wanted to check if I was getting the same reading as the autozone one. Say GOTHALOSISM, on your Z, did you cut your frame rails for that pulley? You used a smaller one and have a lot of clearance, what make and part number the pulley you're using? If I do return this pulley, I just dont want to make another mistake of getting the wrong kind again.

I didn't know there was a two electrical feed for the fuel pump. The one I got only has one gray wire, and the other end is to ground. I thought so that the offset is to the pass side. Maybe I bought the wrong kind of pulley... Was it the one that has the big pulley or the one looks like it has a smaller pulley. I got the one that has the smaller pulley, because I thought it was smaller than the other one since the pulley on that one look massive. This the pulley I got. Luckily the seller was kind enough to accept refund. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390278049924?_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&item=390278049924&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr#ht_1475wt_905 Should I be getting this kind (DORMAN Part # 34209 from rockauto.com) Which pulley you lt1 Z guys are running? Part number would be greatly appreciated. The LT-1 runs great now, still have a pressure drop to 0psi in every 5 seconds when the car turn off. I don't know that is bad or not. The issue with my car wasn't running straight was all the vacuum lines weren't capped, doh..

Went on Lstlt1.com since my Lt-1 question was more for that website. I finally got the car running straight. When I put the A/c pulley delete, I got the small one, and it hit the frame rails. Made me think I might put the JTR kit wrong? The wider spacing is on my driver side and the passenger side has the skinnier spacing. Is that correct?

Oh yeah, when it drop to 0psi, I can hear all the fuel is rushing back into the fuel cell.

Thanks for the input for the rear-end! So I was able to get the car started to day, good feeling. But! There's an issue, it dies 3 second after. I disconnected the MAF (air flow sensor), it would stay running but idles bit high. Hooked it back on it dies 3 second later. I got the new MAF, does the same thing. The spark plugs are new, and routed right. Everything on the ignition is basically new, only thing I haven't changed were the spark plugs. I have a VATS module, so it surely not the vats turning off the engine. I grabbed a fuel pressure gauge, when I turn the key on, it goes 40psi, then when the pump shut off, it drop to 0psi in 5 seconds, with the MAF disconnected, it jumps to 30 to 43 psi. The fuel lines are new and routed correctly, not cramped, the external fuel pump is new it a Bosch 255. Could it be the fuel regulator bad? It isn't leaking from the vacuum line. If the regular bad should I look at something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13107/

The no start spark issue seem to be the opti, already replaced the coil, icm, checked the wires. I wasn't getting spark from the new coil and icm, guess the thing inside the opti wasn't sending signal to to the icm to the coil. Got the MSD Optispark Pro-Billet 8381, that should do the job for the ignition. Its Going to arrive to the house today, will let you fill you guys in as soon I put thing in and hoping it starts. Random question; Is the R200 LSD is longer than the R180, or they are the same size? I ask this because I dunno if I need to shorten the drive line again. Is the 4.10 gear is insane for this car with this swap?

Okay sweet, I got the small one. I'll wire the alternator while I get the pulleys together and a belt around it so I can find which wire is which while it running. Just waiting on the parts to come here now, shipping takes a while. There's one part I need to get till this thing should be complete and running, I am looking for a thermostatic fan turn on relay switch, these motor fan runs 230 degree factory. I feel that a bit way too hot, what if I get a fan switch that turn both fans on 200 degree? Here's the relay I am talking about, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3647/ I think it should be fine, I don't have the wire for the fan from the PCM, should had done it. Right now the car should start, because everything is wired up. It would crank but it won't get spark, I know its getting fuel because I can hear splashing from the fuel cell. Could some ignition parts can go bad from sitting for around a year? I really hope its not the opti spark, that looks like a pain to get into, and not to mention they're pricey! If this was a carbed motor, would've had start long ago. I am so new with EFI lol

Thanks for mentioning about the Driveshaft bolt should have locktite on them, totally dont want the thing fall off and hit everything. I am hoping the radiator would work in that angle, I am not doing any insane racing, yet. I am just looking to cruise around and play few races on the course, some long road trips. I'll have the fill and the air bleeder from JTR mounted higher than the radiator and the motor, hopefully that should do it. The wiring kit didn't include the fan relays, I am guessing I should get one of them relay that sells on summit so they can turn on certain temperature whatever the motor should cool at? I have some 16x8 Rims and 265/45-16 tires in the back, pretty fat wheels, I plan driving this thing really light until I get some kind of beefy rearend that spin both tires. I guessing it would last a bit, hopefully. I totally forgot to say what year my Z was, its a 1973 240Z. It used to be a carbed car with a 4 speed. My buddy said I might not need the Voltage regulator, because the camaro alt might be internally regulated? I took a picture of my Z alt wiring, it has one black wire (guessing ground), the fat red and white power wire, solid yellow and yellow and black wire in a connector and a yellow and black single wire to the old alt. What I could use for the single wire from the port of the camaro alt? My buddy and I wired the harness to the Z today, hoping to fire it up today. It cranks, got fuel, but no spark. It getting 12 volts from the coil, but no spark from the Distributor. Something gotta be missing here. Here's what I am getting for my Clutch situation. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Combination-Remote-Master-Cylinder-Kit-3-4Bore-/220679012677?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item33617e8145#ht_4930wt_1037 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LS1-LT1-T56-Clutch-Line-AN3-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-/120853978537?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c23755da9#ht_1737wt_1037 http://www.ebay.com/itm/3AN-Straight-90-Degree-Stainless-Brake-Line-54-/380405532732?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5891efc83c#ht_3127wt_1037 For my alternator pulley system... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Impala-SS-AC-Delete-Bypass-Pulley-LT1-Caprice-9C1-GM-/390278049924?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ade627084#ht_1431wt_1037 their power steering delete http://www.pscmotorsports.com/94-95-lt1-f-body-high-performance-pump-kit.html I should be fine with that ac delete? There several ac delete, one with a big pulley, one goes on the side, and one with the smaller pulley. That should clear the frame? Look like the one that you guys uses.

Hey Skittle, Thanks for your reply. We talked on youtube about the clutch while ago. For the clutch master cylinder, I only have the old Datsun 5/8 Master cylinder, I did't get the chance to take the Camaro one out, should it be fine with little cutting on the rod? There a Clutch master cylinder on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/T56-T5-Universal-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Kit-3-4-/130628285584?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6115354942400886564#ht_1891wt_1037 Looks like it would work, I gotta get some 3an fittings and hose to make it work with my T56, pretty pricey when it add up. Please do send couple of pictures of your Alternator set up, possibly a diagram hopefully. The original Datsun wiring had bunch of wires goes into the alt, I don't know which to keep or delete. I know the big red and white wire go to the alt, but there 4 wires left. I heard that the small single wire under the alt where the port is need to be connected to something, I read somewhere that if it isn't hooked up it wont charge. I got my wiring harness from fihotrods.com little pricey but its a good kit, they included the Vats bypass for the fuel pump, and they flashed my computer where there is no smog. I tried to figure out where their big pink wire go to, on the instruction sheet they want it go to the ignition coil feed (this wire comes out of the lt1 coil), I was guessing it goes to the old coil connection, but ain't sure which wire it goes to, my Datsun wiring is a mess, it has 5 wires, two to the Distributor, and two to the coil and one is hanging out. Should I connect that wire to the "+" side on the old coil wire and ground the negative and delete the distributor wrings? The rest of the loose wiring want to go to the battery, and other go to the ignition hot and run on the key. Any idea on where to find the hot and run wire on the key ignition? I also would like to know where I can put the two hoses on the throttle body to? They look like coolant hoses. Should I block them off or run them into something?

Also, I have another question, I totally forgot. Is there a way to make the original Datsun Master Clutch cylinder work with the T56? I read about the T56 having a 3/4 Bore and the Datsun is a 5/8 I believe? I read the JTR book that its saying I have to cut the rod on the Datsun Clutch? How does that work? I don't have enough cash to fund for an aftermarket Master clutch for the T56. Thanks for those who ever help out with my questions!

Hello All, I been fascinating Datsun cars for years, I've dreamt of getting one and putting a V8 in it. I was finally able to get a decent one for $900 all beat up but it ran, it has a clean title. Can't complain for $900 with another $900 of bonus parts included (280zx motor, struts, louvers, etc). Sold most of the stuff on Craiglist, basically got the Z free. After 6 month of daily driving, some dude hit me at pick n pull with his 2000 Dodge Ram 2500, he wasnt checking his surrounding while I was backing out, causing the clutch to explode after few miles of the impact? I guessing the jolt of the impact shock the drive line system some how. Anyways, I couldn't afford to get the tranny or clutch replaced because the local shop wasn't familiar with Japanese cars. I was able to get ahold of the 1994 Camaro z28 with a LT-1 T56 for a really decent deal, and insurance mostly paid for the Camaro. So I decided to swap it in since I am more familiar with American motors, and parts can be found locally. So I sold the old motor and tranny, cleaned out the engine bay, put the new power horse in.. Now I am working on all the little things. Have some questions for you guys, maybe ya'll could help me out? I have done alot of research out there, talking to people locally, and googling stuff out. Sorry if some of my question is too common, or already had been said on here. I already checked the search box, couldn't find my answers. Since I am building my car with whatever I could get cheap and locally, I tried to MacGyver everything together So I could drive this thing again, it been 5 month of it not driving. I would use most of the old parts, but they are so worn out, leaky, greasy... etc.. I also repaired alot of rust issues on this car, boy it was rusty. Good thing the old motor splash oil everywhere so it doesn't rust too much. I have an new Aluminum radiator been sitting around, it was for my other project, a 1968 Ford Thunderbird, but that thing is long long gone. The radiator is quite big, and I could make it fit on the car angled. I already mounted on the car, put the camaro fans on there with a little bracketing. My question is, can the radiator still cool while it is on a angle? It is sitting about 35 degree, I plan opening the hood with vents so the heat could exhaust out freely while driving and the fans operating. I got one of those coolant sight glass with the steam vent tee from JTR and a radiator filler neck so I could take the air bubbles out while the car is running, and the filler neck could fill the cooling system with enough coolant. I am also doing the wiring on the car, I want the car stock from the interior mostly possible for now, does anyone has some sort of wiring diagram for the ignition key? I am trying to find the hot and run wire so I can have the motor start up with this wire from the key ignition. I am not a fan of the push start button like most people use. I like to put the key in and start it up and go, haha.. Also will the stock rear end (R180 non lsd) will handle the LT-1 for grandma style street driving? I cant afford a nice R200 LSD, I plan saving for one, while I am saving for it, I wanna drive this thing while I do. I already got the drive line made and mounted on the car. Is there a simple way to wire the LT-1 Alternator to the stock wiring on the Datsun? Just simply charge the battery? The Datsun wiring has about 6 wires from the old Alternator while the LT-1 Alternator has two, and a unused plug in port underneath. That all the important questions I have on atop of my head now, more to come while I get the car going. Sorry for my bad english, I was born deaf who could only do Sign Language. This is my first car that I am going to successfully complete, I had so many failed project because of wiring and money issues. I plan not to fail my Dream car. Check out the pictures! I included what it looked like before and as it is now.