Dan Baldwin

I have Suspension Techniques springs on my '71. For me they are about the ideal compromise for street and track usage. They're twice as stiff as stock at 160 lb/in front and 200 lb/in rear. They lowered the car about 1", again about what I was looking for as a street/track compromise. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB

With L28 pistons, you do NOT want to use L24 rods. If you do the pistons will hit the cylinder head! You'd have to use the shorter L28 rods AND shave the pistons, I believe, to avoid this. This is why most engines with the LD28 crank use either KA24 or Z24 pistons, they have a much shorter distance from wrist pin to top of piston, and allow the use of the longer 240Z rods. Not to mention bumping up the displacement! Can't say I know of anyone with an LD28 crank using L28 pistons. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB

Velly intellestink. Funny that the rpm listed for the 3X2 setup is a good deal lower than how it appears on the chart (it says 6286, when it looks more like 7000 on the chart). Also, I wonder why the SU chart ends at 6300, when torque hasn't fallen off too terribly much at that rpm? Anyway, this pretty much convinces me to stick with my 2" SUs and to optimize them rather than getting 44+mm triples, as my engine is probably only good for 6800 rpm or so anyway (stock LD28 crank, KA24E pistons, L24 rods). Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB

Haven't run my car at the drags, but if I did, this is one thing I would do. Lateral loads should, of course, be minimal, but having a front bar installed and no rear bar ensures that any lateral load is mostly reacted by differential load between the two front tires, and that load is more evenly matched between the rears, which is essential for traction, particularly on a car with an open diff. With the Z's IRS setup, you don't want ANY kind of sway bar preload, since the torque is reacted in the unibody, and both rear tires are pretty equally loaded under acceleration. Incidentally, I've got a pretty good video of my car doing a great two-wheel burnout back when it had an open diff. Good illustration of the superiority of the IRS setup, at least for modestly-powered Zs. My recommendation: Use the front bar, and remove one of the rear bar links to disconnect it. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB

Nothing I read in your post suggests you need new big-ass brakes. For a one-time stop from 70, stock brakes, pads, and DOT3 that's been in the system for less than 10 years should offer enough braking power to lock the wheels, which it sounds like you were able to do. Big brakes will NOT increase braking force at the pavement. Max stopping power is determined by the tire/pavement coefficient of friction. With street/track pad compounds and fresh DOT3 or 4, you would probably have all the braking you'll ever need on the street (and possibly even at the track) with the stock rotors and calipers. My opinion is that you should optimize what you have first, before spending $$$ on exotica that looks cool but is rarely actually needed. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 easily braking with big-braked M3s at the track with my solid rotors/aluminum drums

Looking for some 81 Maxima rear brake caliper brackets for a rear disc conversion on my '71. Also looking for '82-'83 ZX rear brake calipers, and whichever year (info desired) ZX master cylinder fits. As always, information/advice/words o' wisdom also wanted. Thanks! Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB ------------------

Thanks for the reply, Mike. Bias would be too rearward using the ZX rear brakes and Z front brakes and ZX master, huh? Does the ZX have bigger front caliper pistons and/or bigger rotors? Trying to get a handle on how out of balance this setup would be. Dan

Hi there. I'm about to put disks at the back of my '71 3.1 liter Z. Currently thinking of the '82-'83 ZX rotors and calipers and Maxima or fabbed brackets. Wondering what this'll do to my front rear bias if I also use a ZX master cylinder. Anybody know how the ZX front brakes compare to the early Z's, as far as piston area and caliper working radius from axle centerline are concerned? BTW, the car is primarily used for driver's schools and time trial events with COMSCC (NHIS, Watkins Glen, Mosport, Lime Rock, etc.) Any thoughts, opinions, advice, other options, etc. are welcomed! ------------------

Hey, all. I got a chance to sit in a Corbeau Forza over the weekend and it didn't quite fit me (I'm 5'11", 165 lb., 33x33 pants). The thigh bolster was too far (~2-3") aft, leaving my forward thigh unsupported, and giving me the feeling I was more sitting on the thigh bolster than behind it. Anyway, doing some research on the net, I found dimensions for a lot of seats, and decided that a Momo Rookie would fit me best. A bit more coin ($299 + $59 for slider mech). Ordered it yesterday, should be in early next week. Will post here on how it goes. Oh yeah, it seems to me that most bottom-mount seats will fit in a Z with no more effort than drilling four new holes. I didn't order any brackets because they were ~$80, and I figured they would probably have me sitting taller than I wanted. If I have to fab some up, I will. I trial-fitted the Forza, and without brackets it sits pretty low. So I wonder if what I heard about them sitting too high was due to tall brackets? Thanks for all the input! Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1 COMSCC #7 SPB

Hi y'all. Not a V8 guy (measly 3.1 L6), but I gots a question about racing seats. Specifically, what experience has anyone out there had with the Corbeau Forza, or any similar 5-hole cheap seat. I've heard some seats are a bit higher than stock, which I do not want. Any racing seat 240Z experience you guys have would be most welcome. Thanks! Dan Baldwin 3/4 X V8Z