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Sam280Z

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Posts posted by Sam280Z

    need to buy or build rotisserie and engine hoist

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Here is what I did for my 78:

    2 X $40.00 Harbor Freight engine stands

     

    1 Chopsaw

     

    2 pieces metric square tubing (from when my neighbor tried to lift an entire plymouth sports fury and bent the lift arm on my hoist) This would be the hardest part to get. Metric tubing is not readily available. I'm sure something else could be made to work.

     

    Various square tubing and large angle iron (to bolt to chassis)

    Front bolts to bumper shock mounts (you have to notch the anfle iron to clear some tabs.

    Rear bolts to tie down mounts.

    Both are basically two pieces of large angle iron drilled for mounting holes and welded to heavy guage square tubing.

     

    4 exhaust clamps (to ties chassis maounts to rotisserie heads)

    Modified engine stands to have casters at all corners.

     

    This has supported the entire chassis + suspension (including diff) and allows 360 deg of rotation. And, I can roll it anywhere there is smooth concrete.

     

    album_pic.php?pic_id=1457

    Can you belive this?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Joel,

    The picture doesn't show. But if it is a bearing cage as Greimann says, then you need to go easy on that transmission. I can only guess as to the HP you are making. The cage keeps the ball bearings spaced. Without it, it is possible for them to all find their way over to one side. The center of the carrier can then move towards the side without as many ball bearings. Not good when giving it lots of power... I didn't see the pic, but you may still have enough of the cage there to prevent damage for a while.

     

    Sam

    Undercoating Removal

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    A few months, HA! I've been working on that damned thing since 98. That's when I pulled it off the road. Most of the work has been done in the past 8 months though. I finaly decided that I would do it right and spend whatever it took to that end. It also helps to order something for it every couple of weeks. A new or improved part coming in can get you fired up all over again.

     

    Sam

    Undercoating Removal

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    No prob Jeff. Glad to see I'm not the only one crazy enough to do this.

     

    Another thing, cut the stripping pads into small pieces off the bat. Easier to rinse the gunk out and the pad will last a lot longer. It also makes you pay more attention as to exactly where you are scrubbing.

     

    I've noticed that a lot of nasty thinner and stripper has run down inside some of the channels. I plan on cutting 7/8in holes in them with a hole saw and cleaning out in there. I already cut two hole in the very front of the car at the radiator support looking straight down into the frame rails. With a flashlight I can see that the metal is solid inside, but begining to show some surface rust. I want to wash out inside all the rails and use metal prep and then spray epoxy primer in there as well. I plan on using a garden pressure sprayer with a 360 deg spray head to do this.

    Undercoating Removal

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    First I have to say thanks for the reducer idea. Not only does it work well but you get a nice buzz as well. I am doing the exact same thing to my car. And I am in about the same place as you, except for the small nooks and crannies. I was fighting those pretty hard, but the reducer works awesome.

     

    I wouldn't sandblast. Been there done that (on another car). Sand gets everywhere. You will never get it out of everything.

     

    I recommend using a chemical stripper to remove the primer and get it down to bare metal. I noticed that the reducer softened the primer quite a bit. On places that had stripper applied it even would wash the primer away.

     

    I too haven't decided what the finnal coating will be. I do know that it will be primed with an etching primer and then an epoxy primer (after treating with some sort of metal prep).

     

    I guess I should tell y'all what Ive tried so far:

     

    Easy Off oven cleaner: apply thickly and cover with a plastic garbage bag, let sit 24 hours. Undercoating and primer sluff off easily. Do not allow to dry because it only seems to work once.

     

    Charcoal lighter fluid: soak a rag in it and lay over undercoating, cover with plastic and let it sit. The undercoating gets real soft and scrapes up easily.

     

    Heat gun: just heat and scrape.

     

    Chemical stripper: tried quite a few. Some didn't work worth a damn. The sprayable (comes with a squirt bottle) works really well, but the spray bottles don't last long enough and the only other spray bottles I could find only lasted a few squirts.

     

    Finaly, I have been washing with mineral spirits in a spray bottle and lots of shop rags (from teh big box).

     

    All of these worked well for large smooth areas. Its the nooks and crannies that kill you.

     

    Another thing that worked well was a cheap set of wood chisels. They come in various widths, and are sharp and plenty stiff.

    cartech turbo kit and Mikuni carbs

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    TimO,

     

    What kind of HP were you getting at lower pressures (~8psi)?

     

    I see that you mention using the correct emulsion tubes. Were you running 44s or 40s. It is my understanding that the 44s do not have emulsion tubes.

     

    I too have considered gutting the carbs and running EFI (even thought about hiding the EFI inside the carbs. Is this feasble?)

     

    I see that there are quite a few people from the bayou state in here. I just want to mention that we have a LA Z club. Its a little informal, but has quite a few good people. We have three chapters; New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and Lafayette. The Baton Rouge chapter meets last sunday of every month at Georges Southside on Highland road.

     

    Sam

    cartech turbo kit and Mikuni carbs

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Guys,

    Just probing to see if anyone has any experience with the Cartech turbo kit that blew through 3 Mikuni side drafts. I have two sets of these carbs (IOW, six carbs and 2 manifolds) and a complete 280ZX turbo engine (with fried computer). I would be interested in setting up the turbo to blow through the carbs, but can find no info on basic jetting, cautionary tales, reliability, gas mileage etc... I just remember the ads in the Jim Cook catalog that promised 300hp.

     

    Are any of the components still available? Where?

    What size turbo did the kit use?

    What was the jetting?

    How did it handle fuel pressure?

     

    Another thing; the castings on these carbs are pretty porous. The aluminum soils easily and is hard to clean. One of the sets of carbs I own is brand new. Is it feasible to plate (if so, with what?) or powder coat them to keep them looking nicer than the set I'm using right now?

     

    Thanks in advance,

    Sam

    diesel turbo

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    biohzrd,

    Funny you should ask. I read about this this morning in HPBooks Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes. There is a pic on page 40 that shows a mismatch as they put it of a diesel turbo on a gas engine. However, the problem seems to stem from the fact that the turbocharger has no seals to prevent gasoline from flowing through bearings. So that should only be a problem for draw-through systems as they show.

     

    I'm fixing to turbo my triple mikunis, so have been do a bit of reading. If you need anything else, let me know.

     

    I see that you are in BR. What kind of car do you have. Did you know that we have a Z club?

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