jgautosport

Here's mine. It always gets mistaken for red. It's called inferno orange.

Hello, I'm starting the wiring now for my swap (77 280z + 82-83 harness) and following these two diagrams. and and I think I understand it all. I have 2 pictures I have questions on Is this 2 wire connector used. It's located near the eccs connectors Is this small 8 pin being used for the swap? Its located right next to the 8 pin connector I'm splicing into. Thanks

Hello, Im trying to finish up my swap and realized I only have the engine harness. Im looking for an ignition harness that ties into the fi harness under the dash. It also has the coil ignitor wires on it as well. Shipped to 89130 Thanks

This is a problem I've been dealing with for the past week and thought that the solution may be helpful to others. My l28e was running fantastic before I had parked it for a year and a half. I did not use a fuel stabilizer and the tank was 1/4 filled. I live in Vegas so moisture was not my top priority but never had intentions of letting it sit for that long. I primed the engine to get the oil flowing and fired it up. Ran pretty bad. It would bog when you blip the throttle. It seemed to have a miss. I blamed bad gas due to the smell. So I drained the tank and refilled with 10gal of fresh gas and bg 44k. After a quick test drive it would bog and studder under load. Prior to parking the fuel tank was boiled and coated, new walbro pump, prefilter before the pump so I wasn't suspecting a blockage. I was thinking varnish. I changed the prefilter and my main fuel filter and put in new plugs. Still no better. I checked my plugs and all were burning ok except #3. The plug was wet and looked brand new and unburned. I checked for spark and it was good, then thought I had an injector stuck open. Did the screwdriver to ear test and heard nothing so i Bought a new injector and had same misfire in #3.thinking I received a bad injector I got another one under warranty. I made a pigtail with an injector connector so I can manually test the injector. I heard no clicking. So then I thought electrical. Went over the fi bible and was going to do some test and decided to borrow a noid light. I had an injector pulse and went no further with electrical testing. All this head scratching and I forgot about the 3rd element. Compression. I pulled my valvecover of and was filled with joy to find something wrong! My intake rocker had popped off and my lash pad was sitting in the gally of the head. It popped off clean with no scoring to the cam or damage to the valve spring retainer. Popped it back on and got my cylinder back! Only explanation I can come up with is maybe with the car sitting for so long the valve stuck in the open position and popped the lash pad off when I was trying to start it. Sealed off the intake valve and started filling my runner with fuel and would leak down overnight and wet the plug. As for the no ticking from the injector, I'm still at a loss maybe the tip was submerged in fuel . Sorry for the long story but if it helps someone then I'm happy. I tried tons of searches and found similar problems but no resolution. So remember to check all 3. Fuel, ignition, and compression.

They were pretty gunked up when I pulled it off, when I rewire it. I'll keep that in mind. I'll clean and check the connection and still use the relay set up. Just glad I learned something from this. Hopes it helps someone else in the future.

Thank you, added a relay, no hot wires, so far so good. Didn't have time to do it right through the switch but put the headlights on its own circuit with a toggle switch and relays. This weekend ill correct it. Thanks again for your help

So tonight I was driving with the headlights on (first time ever since I've owned the car). and I noticed after about 10 minutes of driving smoke was coming from my steering column. I turn off the headlight switch and smokes gone. So I pull the column covers off and try it again waiting for the smoke and it seems the smoke is coming from the white square piece leading into the turnsignal switch.with the red and black wire leading into it. It was also too hot to the touch. All the connectors from the firewall forward were cleaned and checked. The only thing different from the stock setup that I have are cheap ebay round headlights that use H4 bulbs. Im thinking maybe the cheap headlight bulbs are the culprit. They were already installed in the lenses and had no voltage / wattage rating on them to see. Has anyone else switched over to the H4 bulb setup and experienced any problems? I may just switch back to stock since the light output is horrible on these these anyway. I did not do any type of upgrade or relay add on to this set up, just the new housings and bulbs plugged in. Any info would be much appreciated. I have an autocross im attending tommorow night and Im driving to and from there and need my headlights. Thanks

Thanks! the wheels are 16x8 centerlines with a +12 offset. I had to use a 5mm spacer upfront due to the lower spring perch. I used longer studs in front for the spacer. Stock suspension, just tokico blues and msa lowering springs. Im waiting till I can get the Rota RB's till I lower it more. Im hoping I wont have to thoughTire size is 215/45/16 in front and 225/40/16 in the rear.(they were on my 240sx)

Do the sunrooof delete, you would love it. if you want some pics on how i did mine, check out my page Roof Swap I have no ac and it does get hot but I like the roofline better without it.

I had great results, very impressed myself. I plan on getting another kit since I got lazy after I painted the car and didnt clean them. I was just happy the car was done. I used a Craftsman 30 gal compressor. The air was regulated from the tank and at the gun. I cant remember the pressures but just check the tech sheets for the guns and paint. I would probably not recommend anything smaller than that on the compressor, I dont know if the pressure change would make the paint uneven from not having enough air.

Thanks, They are Ebay projector lights. They have horrible light output I definately would not recommend them

Thanks, My car is your cars twin, you got great taste

Haven't posted in a while with my finished product. But here she is From This To This Extremely happy with the outcome though I need bigger wheels but these will do for now.

Hello, I know the KA trans in a Z-series car has been done before. What about backwards. I have a 77 280z 5-speed and doing an engine swap. I also have an automatic 89 240sx that I am converting to manual. I have evrything minus the transmission and driveshaft. Just wondering if this was feasible or dumb? Thanks Side note. I know people swap the KA into the Z for better reasons so going backwards might not be a good combo. Maybe KA Trans is the way to go.

Thanks, just found it. Looks like a very promising alternative to Aftermarket EMS