zlalomz
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Posts posted by zlalomz
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No straps.
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Some IT Z's used thick wall 1 inch tubing in a rectangle that the flange sat on. The tubing was drilled and tapped and the cell bolted directly to it. That's how the Rebello guy did mine.
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#48 Frank Leary
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I took this one in 1976 so not exactly a digital photo!!!! The guitarist for the group put this one on his website. Old guys, name that group.
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I'm 6'4" with a long upper body and kinda fit. Get a Z without a sunroof to provide more headroom. When I started autocrossing I removed the sliding rack under the seat and replaced it with flatstock that relocated the mounting holes. This helped my helmet clear and gave me more legroom but then you lose any adjustability. It was pretty funny when a much shorter fellow autocrosser drove it, peaking over the dash and barely reaching the pedals.
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For anyone who is not whistleing Christmas tunes yet, I have updated my Halloween photo website. My motorized witch and gravedigger were the largest additions I built this year.
http://zlalomz.googlepages.com/spiderriderhalloween
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Yes, but the tow to Laguna Seca, Infineon and Thunderhill is a bitch.
My brother-in-law sold his beach shack in L.A. and bought 3 investment homes in Texas, it hopefully will make him richer.
I was thinking more of Placerville, Grass Valley and the farm lands south and north west of Sacramento. I found a few possibilities looking under Sacramento Real estate sites.
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Just to bring your search full circle and another vote for Sacratomato, the housing bubble has burst big time in the Sacramento and surrounding areas. You will find what you are looking for in the foothill and former farm areas. Used homes have a 7 month wait to be sold and new homes offer large incentives especially if you don't have to wait to sell your home. It is truly a buyers market. We bought our home 13 years ago and still cringe at what the prices are now but there is not the feeding frenzy of a year ago allowing room to deal.
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It has been brought up but the site has been updated with more products and pictures since my last visit. Thanks for posting.
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Katman or Johnc, would an X bar betwenn the down tubes to the rear strut towers be sufficient or does a diagonal need to in the plane of the main hoop to be safe? I have a horizontal bar side to side welded at the bend of the main hoop.This question is for a non SCCA track day car.
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I'm not sure what you mean. All the bars are connecting to the front part of the tower the best I can tell from the picture. There is a bar continuing from the door x top bar too. Is that the best place to connect all the bars, I dunno?
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Hey 240hoke, there was no disclaimer under your latest pics! Can we copy them, please oh please.
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There were no feathers ruffled. I came to the same conclusion by the time the 20th tube was added. (I'm kinda slow)
The Japanese magazine disscussed on the linked site was given to me by a fellow enthusiast. Lots of great cars and ideas but like Playboy, I keep looking at the pics and have no idea what was in the articles. -
My brother's molded together one piece front end. Kaminari airdam blended into the front flares. I'm driving.
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Rick at Rebello Racing did the main cage in my car and I did the overkill of 20 added tubes. It was loosely patterned after Drsideways car. John Coffey in another post said SCCA rules in IT will need Nascar bars soon. Get the rulebook with who you're going to run with still applies. I have modified the driver side bars for easier access for my old fat butt. It was overkill for a solo2 car but it was planned for dual purpose autocross/track days. After talking to Dennis Hale at a swapmeet I decided to do dedicated cars which has really dragged out my progress. (my fault not Dennis').
That's why I'm building the green car with thinwall tube only in places I think it needs to keep the weight way down. Check out the link in my signature, Prieth. Jon, check out how they are doing that style in Japan with lower x-bars in the doors, rocker panel tube and the rear xbar to the strut towers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10177&d=1133539656
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The ones on the white car have an inch or two more clearance than the "street flares" on my old green car. I used to list the color of the car when I autocrossed as baby diaper green, (those of you with kids know what I mean), so "pewp" flares fit right in I guess.
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Here are MSA "street flares" which are not as wide as the MSA "IMSA" style.
They are patterned after what some of the old SCCA CP Z's used.
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You're right. It has a hairlip so tell me where it is and what language translator I need so I can get it for myself.
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The C-8's are lightweight racing wheels and can be damaged easily on the street. If a racing wheel is what you are looking for, I got mine at Mid-Atlantic Mototrsport back when the dollar was doing better against the yen.
http://www.midatlanticmotorsport.com/panasport.htm
Here is the C-8 warning on his web-site.
Panasport Modular Racing Wheels-C8-13 & C8-16 Panasport's top-of-the-line competition wheels are the C8 series. They are used on everything from Autocrossers to IMSA GTP Cars. Available in 13 inch and 16 inch diameter. Each order is custom built at the Panasport Factory for your specific needs. These are pure race wheels, designed and built for the racetrack. NOT FOR ROAD USE.
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I was going to use a hole saw and the flaring tool seen here. http://www.irvansmith.com/catalog2/parts/irvan_flare.shtml
They have a hole punch/flare combo tool too for more dough.
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I always liked this set up. They are trailer lights over a metal grid in the stock frame. Simple, cheap and elegant in my view. http://www.zparts.com/events/wcn2002/promo/image/DCP_3320.html
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I am about to delete that ad. I found when I pulled the fenders down from the attic to deliver them that the drivers side had warped enough to cause a a bad fit. I will sell them discounted to someone who can look at them in person to see if they can deal with the bad fit. First I am taking a mold from the flare part just to have.
I would love to see pictures of the IMSA kit too. There are a couple of east coast folks looking for a certain style.
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Here is a link to a rotary spitfire build-up you may not know about. There is a lot of suspension changes but you have to buy some of the back issues for more info. http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/archives/rospit.html
The Japanese magazine disscussed on the linked site was given to me by a fellow enthusiast. Lots of great cars and ideas but like Playboy, I keep looking at the pics and have no idea what was in the articles.
Rotisserie
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
I welded an extension onto the rotating piece and added weights 'till I could spin the car with one hand. It stays in position wherever I rotate it but I have a locking bolt and nut welded to the shaft to secure it if I need to.