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zero6zero

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    michigan

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  1. Thanks for the offer on the quarter section. I wish I would have known you a month ago when I bought this car. I have already started repairs on it. When I purchased the car the damage to the quarter was evident. I could see the 15 year old body filler under the paint. So I knew it would be messy. When I blasted the paint off I was shocked at what I found. The bondo in some spots was over an inch thick. But nothing I can't handle. The only part to the tail lights I have is the right black trim panel. As far as trading goes..... that's fine, but what could you possibly want from me.
  2. 280z. You don't have to give them to me. I can give you some cash for them..
  3. i dont necessarily have my heart set on it, i do not care all that much for the look of the s30,originals, my car has no tail lights, and the driver quarter was mashed in pretty well right around the tail light surround, the vett lights have been done a million times. i guess i really wont know until i have a set in my hand. and able to look at them closer.
  4. wondering if anyone out there has access to a 89-94 s13 240sx. I need to know how wide the tail light section is. the s30 is about 52 1/2 inches. if the s13s are pretty close I'm debating doing some quarter panel and tail light section fab work to get them to fit. my drivers quarter was beat up pretty bad and it needs extensive sheet metal work anyways. just a thought.
  5. xylene. I have some of that. perfect. thanks zee going to try and spray it this weekend. I have some small nickle and dime size holes to weld up first. and are you applying carpet over this stuff. and or just the liner and some floor mats. curious how easy it is to clean. prob not very easy I would imagine
  6. I'm definitely going to to go this route. thanks for the pics
  7. wow. looks nice. what is ketone and what brand did you use. I have sprayed al's liner in the past.
  8. anybody ever consider or actually spray a heavy bedliner like permatex or rhino liner on the floor of their cars. I'm considering this on the inside and outside of my floor. it seems it would be excellent corrosion protection and an effective sound barrier.
  9. Palos you are definitely 100% correct about abuse from insurance companies, i agree the shops should get paid more. these practices over the years have allowed a biz, such as my own to greatly reduce the costs of overhead to stay profitable. good contract with materials supplier shop and tools paid for. my town 40k people 7 body shops in a 15 mile radius... most with a good history with talented workers. Its very competive. i could never charge 600.00 and expect to get the job. while a shop just down the road can offer equal quality for half or 2/3rds the price. Now as far as the way mitchell compiles Data. They do time studies, maybe not enough, or maybe not 100% accurate, but when it comes down it it, it is what it is. Im not claiming to be an expert, and i think we are getting a little off track with the original post. I will read the links you sent me, its always good to be informed. i do read all the body shop business mags i get in my mailbox and they sometimes refer to these same topics. Now back to the original question at hand.. Is 600.00 pricey? i think so. Can it be done properly for half the price? i promise it can! in anycase i wish slownrusty the best of luck.
  10. while your doing all the work you should spray some 3m weld thru II primer on all your bare metal. its a rattle can primer that can be welded on, and it wont burn off. its not a miracle worker but is better than nothing when it comes to corrosion protection...
  11. i would also like to mention that altho this is the price that the software came up with palos is somewhat correct with his true costs of bizz statement. this is not a lucrative job for a body shop. if all i did was these little jobs i wouldnt make much money. its borderline profitable. the idea is to do jobs like these to get a new costomer and keep an old one. if i did this job for you at 300.00 i would expect you to return to me with your insurance claim of 5 grand
  12. When i got to work today i wrote an estimate for refinishing a rear bumper for an 83 280zx. it was as far back as my mitchell estimating software would go back. keep in mind, this was just a refinish estimate and not a repair R&I. this was written with my statefarm insurance profile. altho it came to be a little higher than i orginally told you, i was not far off, the way this estimating company gets these numbers, is by paying a body man to do the job 5 times, they then average the amount of time it took the worker to complete the task. standerd refinish quote is as follows 1. refinish rear ctr. cover 1.0/hr 2 refinish rear outercover 0.8/hr 3 refinish rear outercover 0.8/hr 4. clear coar 0.9/hr 5 paint&met. 112.00 6 hazd. waste disp. 5.00 3.5 hours @52.00 labor 182.00 additional costs 123.72 this is paint& met, tax and little **** gross total= 305.72 hope this helps, mitchell is a nationally accepted estimating program that multiple insurance companies use to write estimates, its not cheap software and is updated monthly i stand by this company Maybe where i live labor is cheap. i will admit, im not rolling in the dough, but im not exactly going hungry either. like i said early i think we have been open for 35-37 years, 3rd generation i am. i grew up in a body shop. i do not claim to be the best. and all shops are different.
  13. I realize its not just paint and clear. the.price was reflective upon the price of what it cost to have the job done. 35 years we have been open for. id say that's long enough. where exactly is 600 dollars justified.... around here labor rates are 52/hour paint and materials are 32/hr. lets call it a 5 hour job 3.5 labor 1.5 paint and materials haz.waste disposal few bucks for flex additive, you you cant charge him for a quart if he doesnt need it. tax is cheap, its just on the materials hes at about 250 ish. and I did say depending on how much prep the bumper needs. I was assuming it was in decent condition. no.cracks or tears to repair... if you can honestly say you would charge him 600 to paint a bumper cover. try telling an insurance company you want that much to clean up a used part and paint it... I'm sure you will find they will laugh at you.. I have been painting myself for 7 years..doing collision work for 10. maybe you have been doing it longer. but 600.00 come on... remember he didn't ask anyone to R&I.who knows maybe I'm wrong.
  14. rust removal... I.have used farm grade molasses mixed with water... mix it all in a big plastic tub. let soak. won't take off paint but will totally destroy rust.. cheap and effective... look up molasses rust removal on youtube. kinda neat... after that it will obviously need to be coated with.something. just another option for ya. I never heard of.the product you mentioned
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