zacward

Most auto machine shops can take care of your machine needs... The old L-series engine is like a cakewalk for machinists. My motor had all cylinders over-bored, all surfaces decked, full valve job and all new pistons for just under $500. Final assembly by me.

Not a sure bet, but both of the problems you describe, those circuits run through the ever-common hazard switch.

Well, nine is A-OK inside; will still take that one off you. PM me and we can PayPal, if the ground strip is still connected from relay to case, sir.

How much would it be sent to 78681 Texas?

Hows it look?

Lets talk about the ole ignition relay. Does anyone make replacments besides this guy, who doesnt check his email? http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/what-s-new/ Are there any vendors here that make them?

Matt, using the diyautotune adapter with a 6ft usb cable (good quality, got from ALTEX electronics)

I got it, MEGA Z is running. Had to pull tach input from the blue wire on the OEM ignition module for my pin 24. The MSD blaster2 coil sends a dirty, dirty signal. While I do still lose comm when cranking, the MS unit stays powered. I vaguely remember that some installs have that problem but cant remember the fix.

Finished my MS1 3.57 install but have a few issues. 280z, just figure everything stock except 420cc injectors. 1. Tunerstudio and the MS ecu lose comm during cranking. The main relay has power during cranking, maybe down to 10 or 11v but still good power. 2. No tach signal. Pin 24 (white) goes straight to coil negative JP1 is jumpered 2-3, J1 is jumpered 3-4 Would anyone recommend using one of these to isolate a good signal? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8910/media/instructions 3. Would I have better luck taking the tach signal from the oem ignition control unit? When cranking and watching multimeter on the neg side of blaster 2 coil its spitting out all kinds of voltages, 12v, 8v, 10v,14v... Everything ran fine with the carb, ignition has not been touched. And why am I not permitted to upload my msq tune or logs to here?

Bump. Still need.

Coolant inlet pipe, comes off front cover. The later-model one that I need has the threaded T fitting. Preferably one without too much corrosion. http://www.partsbase.org/nissan/280zx-s130-us-2s-l28e-j-at-f3-c-cal-engine-mechanical-front-cover-vacuum-pump-fitting/#p-nissan-13049y4000

Dont forget to use the correct angle for the bung ( keeps the moisture from building up on the wideband sensor). I used the aem uego wideband, replacement Bosch O2 sensors can be had as little as $18!

Ive had the AZ car 4bbl intake mani for a year or 2 now. The holley 390 (bought mine at: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-8007) has fuel slosh issues around high-G turns (sputters and can flood). Out of the box the primaries were jetted too lean and the secondaries too rich. Transition between cruise and "getting on it" can be a bit laggy, but I attribute it to my crankcase venting system( low vaccuum). Maybe different in other expirience. My car is a 1978, block bored 0.030" over, late 260z head and l28block, stock dished pistons; did a little port smoothing, but no real porting done, stock injection cam, custom cold air intake using http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-98499 . Carter 45 gph fuel pump 6-8 psi, deadhead style, fuel filter before the pump (rusty fueltank) and another in oem location. I decided to convert to the 4bbl setup because I couldnt get my fuel pump to stay running. Went through many parts and diag procedures but couldnt get the relays i needed from the dealer or aftermarket. Saved up my $800 and installed the AZ Car mani and holley 390. Final impressions: It'll start up and run every day for you and "convenient" trips. Here in TX sitting at idle for extended periods (traffic jams/consecutive stoplights), my Hooker header will boil the fuel out of the secondary bowl in certain conditions. (Fuel bowls are setup correctly, header primaries wrapped under carb and adjoining 2 cylinders) My honest recommendation is to use the edelbrock 500 thunder avs with a full jet kit, wideband, and vacuum guage kit (for tuning idle), for the 4bbl induction systems. Cheaper than the holley with no fuel slosh! Edit: forgot to say, the holley 390 will not fit on the AZCar intake mani without a carb spacer unless you clearance where the primary butterflies run into the manifold. You should be running some kind of spacer/ heat shield with the 4 bbl anyway as it get heatsoaked easily. The reason behind that? Look at how far the stock sidedraft carbs are from the exhaust mani on a stock setup; Now look at the 4bbl setup. Secondaries sit right above exhaust manifold.... But with a ceramic header, I would hope for better results and less heat soak issues.

Buy an Edelbrock 500 and jet kit. Problem solved. That holley is a pos, fuel slosh is always an issue.

I have a 78Z, got a new clutch from the dealer (not the key value but the actual oem parts) and when i got it all back together there was a grinding noise between clutch engage/disengagement so I pulled the trans back out and the rivets on the disc hub were running against the inside rivets on the pressure plate.. Anyone ever seen that?

Looking to get a 4 barrel manifold, the Arizona Z Car one, not the clifford. Also looking for holley 390 with electric choke, linkage, throttle bracket, air cleaner, and recirculating carb fuel pressure regulator.

Tomorrow ill pull a tire and measure a bare rim on the balancer. Ill spin it hub mounted and lug mounted and note the differences.

Not my car but it has these same wheels.

The wheels on my 78Z dont center. I put them on the balancer at work mounting lugcentric like the would on the car and they look warped. 158lbs off on the roadforce with horrible rim runout. Looks like the wrong lugnuts were used and people just hammered on them with an impact. So my question is, how do you guys fit aftermarket wheels on your Z? Is it the lugnuts you use, or adapters?

Hmm I'll have to check out the "remove the ashtray" idea

Im talking about a large soda from McDonalds or other fast food restaurant. I can deal with cans or bottles.

I had my machine work done in Schertz, by San Antonio. 210-659-2400. Its called city auto machine. Also, this guy has expirience with L-motors http://www.glennsmachine.com/about.html . He's just north of Austin.

Went to a drive-through today, got a big ass soda, then realized I have nowhere to put my drink.... I ended up stuffing it between me and the door. So the question is, what do you guys do with a drink in your Z?

Pull the screw all the way out and clean it off. Spray carb cleaner where it screws into as well

I have, why? Just a basic electronic distro with cap & rotor as far as I know. I mainly work on new cars so its kind of a break to work on an early injection system.