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I'm trying to diagnose a few things on my 75 280z 2+2, and I'm wondering if they might be related. Any help would be appreciated. Also, does anyone know why the section of my camshaft above cylinder #2 is red? Video. In summary, I can't seem to get power out of my engine. It used to run "great", but now I can barely get the car over 30mph. I ran a compression test, fearing a blown head gasket, but though the readings aren't great, I would have expected to get over 30mph with them (1: 170, 2: 156, 3: 167, 4: 169, 5: 160, 6: 165). That #2 cylinder seemed especially low, so I ran it with a tsp of oil in the cylinder, and no change - still 156. My vacuum is measuring low at about 13 in of Hg. I replaced all the old vacuum tubing, but it's still running low, even with most subsystems' vacuum lines blocked off. Fuel is spraying well out of all injectors. Fuel pressure is at 38 psi with the fuel pump on, but engine off, then drops down to ~30 psi when idling. Using a timing light, I adjusted the distributor til the engine was at exactly 10 degrees by the timing mark. I lashed the valves back in the day at cold, but I definitely hear a clicking from the engine that I don't love. Based on that and everything above, I imagined that I must have just screwed up the lash, so I opened the valve cover and checked, but no, the lash was exactly where I left it. So I don't know. Any pointers, ideas, or other debug steps would be appreciated. And yeah, if anyone knows why that section is red on the camshaft, I'd love to know! Thanks everyone. Valves in action
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And so the story begins... My son and I were talking about a project to do together. My friend Larry has been building and racing Z cars for many years and his wild enthusiasm was infectious. So we started casually searching for a car. We were looking for a 240 but couldn't be happier about what we found, given all that we've since learned in the process. I was looking on Craigslist and there she was, a '77 280Z in Reno. This was late October 2017 and I think the seller was asking $2000. I forwarded the post to my son, who lives in Reno, to see what his reaction would be. He drove over to the seller's house immediately and looked it over pretty carefully (or so it seemed) and called me up. We talked about it and he offered $1500 with no title, and the seller accepted. So we took a leap of faith and purchased our project car. I rented a trailer and drove up the next day, loaded her up, and took her back to our shop in Gardnerville, NV. It was apparently all original, with 93k miles and a sticker on the license plate from 1993. The seller had found it covered in dust in back of his friend's shop and similarly couldn't resist the temptation. He was planning to get it running, but it ended up just sitting in his garage, undriveable. There was a small box of parts in the back, with license plate from Alabama, with a sticker from '93l. We did a title search and 1993 was the last issued registration for the car. Alabama is known as the easy place to get a replacement title, but the starter had a sticker from a motor rebuild shop, in Alabama and we discovered later that the EGR port on the intake manifold was disabled by packing it with mud that could only have been from Alabama. At the time of the purchase, Nevada had made it the responsibility of the civil courts to award vehicle titles... oh boy. While not impenetrable, we were not looking forward to going through a court procedure for old Donna. Miraculously, two months later it was announced that, come July, it would once again be the responsibility of the Nevada DMV to award vehicle titles. As it should be! After a bit of back and forth with the Title Research Department we were awarded a bonded title. And a good thing too as we had already stripped her down by that point (more on that later). Something tells me there is no way we would've found a car like this for $1500 bucks if the seller had known he could've nabbed a title for it so easily only a few months later. Timing is everything! The seller also knew things about the car that we had not yet discovered. We weren't entirely sure how far we were going to go with it but have ended up on a fantastic journey, much much more to come. Here she is, as we found her:
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*Finally getting around to documenting my build. Will continue to update the text as I go. Happy to answer any questions. Feel free to also follow along on instagram for more frequent updates. I fell in love with the S30 chassis at around the age of 13 and tried to buy one or two as my first car. Unfortunately, being from the north east, anything I could afford had rust holes in structural areas you could put your hand through. After watching the price trend over the last few years, I decided I better act before I missed the boat. -Purchased sight unseen in October, 2018 from another member here. -The car started it's life in California, was shipped to Florida by the P.O., and then I shipped it back to California. I was living in Germany at the time, so the plan was to store it with my family and make trips to work on it whenever I found the time. -I purchased it as a roller since I'd always planned to do a swap anyway. It came with a lot of T3 and AZC suspension bits already in place, most of which I sold.
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After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...- 78 replies
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Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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MODS: I apologize, should this be moved to Member Projects? Unoriginal, I know. Blasphemous, for sure; wouldn't have it any other way. I just wanted to pop in with the standard "Long time lurker" introduction. I've been trying to restore a Z for the past year and half, which has ballooned way over my head in what surprises a 40+ year old Datsun has in store for an unsuspecting hobbyist. It started off with buying a running, seemingly decent condition 280z which was to be a joint project for my girlfriend and me. We were going to do right by the car, keep it simple and just restore it. As we started to peel back the layers, that all started to change. Feb-April 2019 The car ran! Only had two owners, came with a lot of documentation and detailed sheet of when/what was done with all corroborating receipts. The guy literally tracked running hours on engine rebuild. It did start puffing a bit and he was forthcoming and stated it needed a head gasket. We start cracking away and the next set of photos you're all familiar with.... We got a quote on rebuilding the head and it came out to over $1000 since the components are hard to come by or custom. Looking at engine options through Datsun Spirit, who are local, just destroyed so much of the budget. Especially now that we had to battle the unseen cancer... We just started to tear everything apart. Sadness ensued. The best part of the car
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So I've been debating pulling the trigger or not and have finally found my favorite year of the 280z's and i must say in decent condition with minimal rust and for $2,000 must say it was definitely a good find. On to the details..The frame has 53,909 original miles and came with vin matching Motor and Transmission (4spd) previous owner also threw in a 5spd transmission. The motor was rebuilt using flat top high compression pistons, all work done by previous owner. Most of the rust found on the car was surface rust but no real rust except from the Radiator support in the front which seems to be a bit more severe. The interior is complete although the car has a missing front windshield so the interior has gone to shit but the good news the floor panels seem to be in great condition, found no holes on the underside of the car. Now onto the Project - My intentions are to do a 2JZGTE VVTi swap with the Getrag v161 6 speed transmission and a ford 8.8 differential (still haven't decided on gearing). I know in order to surpass the 1000whp mark I'm going to need to increase head flow, pistons, rods, springs, valves (3 angle valve job), retainers, cams, single turbo exhaust manifold and lastly the turbo still debating but will AT LEAST be starting with a 72-85. As far as suspension goes definitely open to suggestions. ....and some pictures
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This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
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I am in the research phase of my 280z build and have been going back and forth between the Arizona Z Car Track Pack and Techno Toy Tunings Packages that match ACZs offerings. The overall plan is the build my suspension and brakes to be strong and able to do anything I throw at it, whether it’s auto cross, track days or daily driving. I will be going with a LY6/T56/R200 drivetrain. I know there are threads that talk about both techno toy and AZC but I haven’t seen any definitive pros or cons to either kit and I would love to know if anyone else has gone through this and where you landed. -
This is a re-post with new reduced price. 1) Brand new, never installed, 5 lug stub axles (4340 billet steel) 27 spline (OE), with Z31T companion flanges (also 4340 billet), purchased in 2012 from Modern Motorsports for $1090. Bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5 which allows use of the widest variety of wheels on your Z. You can perform easy modifications of stock Z31T CV axles according to Modern Motorsports and these are bolt-on. I can not provide these instructions, but they can probably be found in one of the threads on this site by someone who has done this modification. New lugs, stub axle nuts are included. 2) Take your pick of ONE pair of the 5 lug front hubs (also 4.5" bolt circle) from the 80's 300ZX below, and I will include with the above. There were two different styles used in these cars. These can be used over the 240/260/280Z spindles, but they have a 20mm greater offset (outboard) than the original 4 lug hubs. These hubs also do not provide the inboard housing for a seal to cover the inboard seal step on the OE spindles. You could have a machine shop machine these very slightly, and then press on a collar which could hold that OE seal. This would be a very simple job for a competent machine shop if you take them this hub and your original 4 lug hub. 3) Reduced price on all of the above - was listed at $900 just for items in number 1. NOW: $599 plus shipping to your ZIP code. Before Modern Motorsports stopped selling the above parts, their last posted price for the items in #1 was $1400, so this is a significant reduction for a quick sale. I have decided to take a different direction on my Z project, and will no longer be using the above parts. -
Hello guys, I am having a headache trying to find out all the correct information about my engine. There are other people trying to fin out by using the casting numbers by the back of the engine but looks like the number has a printing error, I know it’s a 350 5,7, but I would like to know exactly what I have. does anyone has a good idea of how can I get all the information about my engine? Year? What vehicle was originally from? Hp, etc I need parts and the auto parts always give me issues as they need the year or model of my vehicle. I can’t tell them athat I have a Datsun 1975 with a sbc lol, Any help will be appreciated. I am opening another discussion to explain the issues. Thanks for your support, we can do “diy“ because we help each other. In a Chevy forum they replied telling that this is the engine information, How do I know to what vehicle it came from, or at list a vehicle for me to use when ordering parts
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Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?
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Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?
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I've looked through the FSM, my Haynes manual and searched forums on multiple sites. I can't identify this part on top of the thermostat housing and where the hoses are supposed to be attached. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Hey all. So I have had my 1977 280z for around 7 years now. Drove it for a couple when I first bought it. Started having issues with the L-Jet system. Spent a while troubleshooting but the more I fixed the more I found items that needed fixing. Ended up moving into an apartment, then bought a house, sold the house, etc. barely worked on it for a few years. My now fiance and I bought a farm house with a big ole workshop (about 2500sqft, 3 bays, 1 dumptruck bay) and I got back into making my dream car just that. I decided now was the time to do it right. My Z had rotted floors, rotted frame rails, rotted fenders, rotted firewall. tons and tons of structural rot. Good thing I am a welding and metallurgical engineer and have plenty of fabrication equipment and experience (I hope). I cut out both floors, the firewall on the passenger side, fender well, and patched the "torque box" area of the frame in front of the firewall...one panel at a time. Most of these welds have been gas backed or flux shielded, or copper backed. Derek Macheski provided the floor support rails for my build (I think hes on here somewhere) as a partial trade for my motor. I am pairing my Z up with a Ford 5.0 small block V8. The donor vehicle was a 2001 mercury Mountaineer which means this is the highest performance factory 302W offered but also brings up some challenges; 1: The heads are GT40P heads which requires special or custom headers. The only headers currently manufactured that fit correctly are long tubes which will not fit the S30 engine bay. 2: The upper and lower intake are quite tall and require the engine be mounted somewhat lower in addition to possible hood clearance modification. 3: The engine is returnless and distributorless and I will be using the factory EFI harness and ECU, tuned with protune and probably a Moates QH chip. The current state of the build: I have completed most of the fabrication work, a few odds and ends that need to be finished but nothing major. I have the engine, transmission, and headers all in the vehicle and everything seems to fit. I am currently working on thinning the EFI harness of all unnecessary equipment using an old factory electrical schematic and some help from the folks over at the explorer forums.
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Hi HybridZ, I am Allen G, I'm from North Carolina and I have a 78 280z that I thought I would share as an introduction. I bought my car as a bone stock 280z about 8 years ago and I have been working on improving it ever since. The car currently has a stock(ish) RB25DET and the stock RB transmission that came with it, and is being run on an AEM Infinity ECU. The car has a radium dual pot surge tank, n1 oil pump, and baffled oil pan, but I am currently contemplating having the rear head drain improved to cut down on the possibility of having oiling issues these motors are known for. I've got it running through an OS Giken superlock CLSD geared to 3.92 with wolf creek CV axles. The car sits on T3 coil-overs and I currently have 15" rota grids wrapped with Toyo Proxes RA1s, from what I have experienced with the tires thus far I would recommend them highly! I am building the car for road course use, I am not much for the drag racing aspect of motorsports and VIR is a short drive away for me. I recently got the opportunity to test the performance of the vehicle on track at NCCAR here in NC and it went great! I thought I was in love with the car before but now I REALLY want to keep improving both the car and my own skills driving it. I will say I have worked in the car business all my life and I am not totally uninformed, but I am also always learning and I will probably be learning for a long time to come. Check out my car and let me know what you think, it's a pretty decent setup but there are a lot of aspects that I am still trying to perfect. Thanks for reading, I am looking forward to engaging with you and learning from all of you!
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Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
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Hi If anyone on here has previous experience or has undertaken such a project I would be grateful for their advice and help in the following. I am building a street able and possibly a light competition car. Something to have fun with. What I imagine is a high revving, very responsive engine with uprated brakes and suspension and a stiffened chassis. I am looking for around 180 to 200 wheel horsepower. The type of car that is not stupidly quick, but something that you can rev out and enjoy pushing through the bends and enjoy through the whole rev range. Not an all out track car with all the power at the top end. I have built a few projects my self and am looking to build the engine myself. At the moment I have my 280z with the stock L28 engine with stock EFI system. I have got it running but don't like the way the engine performs. It seems to have a bit of torque but is sluggish/lazy. It is not a free revving, spirited engine. This could be because it has lost its performance as its old and has an out dated EFI system but from what I have read the L28 is a long stroke engine so not high revving and responsive. This has led me to consider, from what I can see are the 3 options. I want to keep the car naturally aspirated. 1. Rebuild my L28 and increase compressing as from research its a low compression motor. Also add triple Webbers and some cylinder head work (CAM etc.) I am not to hopeful as from what I can tell the L28 is a long stroke engine so even after this work it wont be high revving and will not be very responsive. Also the stock 5 speed gearbox does not seem great for this application. 2. Source an RB25DE as I want to keep the car naturally aspirated. From my research these engines rev higher and make about 150 wheel horsepower. So with this engine I may get away with a simple refresh and possibly some cylinder head work, cams etc to squeeze a bit more power out of it. I will need new mounts, prop shaft, wiring loom etc. 3. Source an RB26 and turn it into a naturally aspirated engine just like Sung Kang's build. This seems to be the more expensive option rather than the RB25. I have done some research and it seems in order to raise the compression of the RB26 I would need to install high compression pistons and stronger rods, change the CAMS, New springs and possibly port and polish the head. I would want to produce an engine that has performance through the rev range though and not all at the top end. I will also need a wiring harness kit, new sump to fit the S30 chassis, ECU and prop shaft made. I calculated this all to cost, including the purchase of the engine and gearbox (RB25 gearbox) to be about £7k if I build it my self. So if anyone has any experience in this it would be great to hear their opinion and what they have done. Many thanks Paul
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Hi all this is my first post so sorry if I’m doing this wrong. Recently did the rear disc brake conversion using Zcardepot’s kit and I’ve been having issues with the car not fully stopping even when I pull the e-brake up. I’ve insured to bleed the brakes throughly in the right order (Rear Passenger > Rear Driver > Front passenger > Front Driver). I’ve also adjusted the e-brake tensioning rod so it fits tightly. Thank you for the help! -
I couldn't be any happier to announce that I have my 1978 Datsun 280z back in my possession after all these years. Way back when I was only eighteen years old, I had an amazing cousin that introduced me to Datsun's and specifically the S30 Series. At the time he owed a couple Z's. One with an LS swap and the other with a turbo kit. Once I experienced the awesomeness that these vehicles could put out, I was hooked! Just like that, I made my mind up that I had to have one. With my cousins help of course, we were able to pick up my 280z fairly quick. Happy to say that I got in a good couple years with the Z being my daily driver. During this time I began to go down a very dark path. Unfortunately the Z was not my priority during my "dark years". This lead to my car sitting at my dads for a good 6 to 7 years. Now that I am in a much better place in life, I was able to get the Z back in my possession. I decided that it would be best for the car to go straight to the shop and get some professional help. I have never claimed to be the best mechanic, so this seemed to be the best option. Unfortunately the shop had the car for close to a year. I have now paid a LARGE amount to get the car up and running like a top!! Now that I have the car back home I would like to start working on it myself. Again, I have always had help with the car so I feel very unworthy at the moment lol. This is where I would like your help. I will post all the pictures I have, in hopes that you all can point me in the right direction. Honestly I do not have many funds after paying for the shop bill, so I want to make it a point to do all the work myself that I can possibly handle. I have only had the car back for a few days now so I haven't been able to tag it due to the COVID mess going on. From the little bit I have been able to drive it, all seems to be running well! I do think that the next step I take will be upgrading the suspension and steering. Just from the couple short trips I have taken on the Z, its very obvious that the suspension is in need of some love. Happy that you all are here with your expert advice! Look forward to the responses to come! -
Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
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So I have a 1977 280z with a stock engine. The car runs and drives really well but anytime I come to a red light or stop sign it wants to die so I have to press the gas a little so it doesn’t die. Any ideas on that it is or what I should do? Thanks -
So I have a 1977 280z with a stock engine. The car runs and drives really well but anytime I come to a red light or stop sign it wants to die so I have to press the gas a little so it doesn’t die. Any ideas on that it is or what I should do? Thanks
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Hey guys I’m in the middle of getting my turbo setup together and need some feedback. Has anyone used this manifold? Also I’m gonna be using a Borg Warner 66/74 turbo, does anyone know what would be a good wastegate size?
