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Showing results for tags '280z'.
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Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
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I was trying to fabricate a bracket for the 280z front brakes to mount a wilwood caliper, but need to throw in a slightly larger Diameter rotor to be able to put the wilwoods on. The stock 77 280z rotor measures 10.8" in diameter and I am not able to find any larger rotors that fit the 4 lug design and offsets. Is anyone in the group aware of a rotor with a larger diameter but carrying the 4 lug pattern? The offsets can be managed with some spacers, but I would like to keep the 4 lug pattern. I looked at the 300zx vented rotors, but look like they're the same diameter as the stock 77 rotors. I'm looking for something around 11.2" or larger Thank you! -
After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...- 83 replies
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I have two brand new in box Tokico Illumina adjustable struts p/n BZ3099. These are for the Toyota MR2 1987-89, but have been popularly used in sectioned struts for the 240, 260, 280Z. I bought these several years ago and never installed them and now my 280Z project has taken a different turn, and I will no longer be needing these. I will only sell both together for $250. Buyer pays shipping from Zip 29303. Please do not request a shipping quote unless you accept the purchase price already. I will need a few days to box these properly and securely including adding packing material to protect these parts for you before I can get the quote from UPS. I am attaching an article I printed from HybridZ forum many years ago that explains the sectioning in case you can't find it here doing a search. Strut sectioning.pdf -
I am not a mechanic at all, i am just a 19 yo who started liking cars and likes building things, so bear with me if some terminology or methodology is wrong Hello, I'm in a bit of a crisis with my car at the moment, and before I get told to do this, yes I have spent days searching the internet, and yes I have looked through the FSM for this model year of the 280z, and spent many days looking through the wiring diagrams trying to solve this problem. A little backstory for this project of mine: My grandpa has had this car for about 30ish years now sitting on his property. I recently took an interest in the car and was starting to get into cars in general. So he decided to let me try to restore the car with him. I should mention the car had been stripped of all components for a full restoration that 30 years ago. so I started on the car approximately 2-3 months ago now, and am almost ready to start, and paint the car, and get it road ready. Onto my electrical problems: So after I got every electrical connection together through the entire car, we plugged in a new battery to start testing the electrical components. Right off the start there were issues but not too many, the engine would crank fine but we didn't have gas so we don't know if it would have started or not. but as i have been trying to solve the problems with the electrical, i accidently shorted a ground pin to the main headlight pin in a connection while light testing and since then, the headlights don't work, and the flashers don't work. The fuses are fine none blown, and the fusible links are fine, they all get continuity & voltage through them. I have replaced the flasher relay and it didn't change anything, I have cleaned all the connections in the combination switch circuits. Then when I was testing the ignition switch, I accidently cranked the engine, and my negative to chassis ground cable instantly melted. Ever since then the positive terminal of my battery, has continuity to the chassis of the car, the engine and every single ground contact/cable throughout the car. Another thing, I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but in my fuse box, the left side of my fuel gage fuse (blue wire) has continuity with the positive terminal of my battery. Things i have tried to trace the problem so far: I have taken off all the important relays for operation and opened them, checked for any damage, and cleaned them. I have been checking all my fuses and fusible links constantly to make sure its not them. I did notice today, that when I unplug the fusible link in the picture, my positive terminal loses ground to the entire car, which has led me to believe its something to do with that cable. Any help would be apprieciated
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Apologies, I included a special character in my last thread title and it corrupted the page. I can’t seem to delete it, sorry! See repost below ———————————————————— Hey all, Hope you’re good. I’ve been browsing the HybridZ forums a bit but I’ve not managed to find anything specific to the swap that I’m doing. I have a LHD 1977 280z and a 2JZ-GTE VVTi and not sure whether to mate with either a T56 Magnum F or a CD009. Please feel free to direct me to a thread which can answer what I’m outlining below! These would be my two options both brand new. Grannas T56 Magnum F kit or the Collins/Autosports/SerialNine CD009 adapter kits.. Gear T-56 F CD009 1st 2.66 3.78 2nd 1.78 2.32 3rd 1.30 1.62 4th 1.00 1.27 5th 0.80 1.00 6th 0.63 0.79 I’m based in West Sussex, UK with a LHD 1977 280Z. Lots of twisty roads and sharp turns round here... Not really too fussed about cruising and fuel economy as this will not be a daily. I’ll be looking to build my Z primarily for spirited driving and to be able to take on track occasionally. I will be doing a single turbo conversion and looking to push around 500-600 bhp max. I have to say I am leaning more towards the CD009 because of parts availability, it is also cheaper too. But will need some work done to fit in the tunnel nicely, so I’ve read. My indecision is when it comes to drivability. I’m really stuck between both CD009 and T56 Magnum F (close ratio version) and what would be better suited to what I want to build the car for based on the conditions above (I guess for the type of roads over here and the tracks we have, shorter gears are better?) I’m also quite unsure on which diff I should go for that will get the most out of whatever transmission I decide on. Do you guys have any thoughts as to what is the best pairing would be for the 2JZ in terms of transmission and diff? Can I stick with the long nose R200? Or do a SN R200 conversion, 8.8 conversion… etc. Just trying to really narrow down those options too. There are a few bits that’s I’ve read about each transmission but I haven’t managed to find technical pros and cons/justifications that is specific to my chassis and swap. I’m not sure how much of that information I can take to crossover with my build so I just would rather ask to make sure. Please let me know if you need any more info from me! Thank you very much. Raman
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Hey all, Hope you’re good. I’ve been browsing the forums a lot but I’ve not really seen anything specific to the swap that I’m doing. I have a 280z and a 2JZ-GTE VVTi and not sure whether to mate with either a T56 Magnum F or a CD009. Please feel free to direct me to a thread which can answer what I’m outlining below! These would be my two options both brand new. Either Grannas T56 MF kit or the Collins/Autosports CD0009 adapter kits.. I’m based in the UK with a LHD 1977 280Z. We don’t really have any long stretched roads in the area that I live in - lots of twisty roads and sharp turns let’s say. Not really too fussed about cruising and fuel economy as this will not be a daily. I’ll be looking to build this primarily for street and to be able to take on track occasionally. I will be doing a single turbo conversion and looking to push around 500-600bhp max. I’m really stuck between both CD009 and T56 MF and what would be better suited to what I want to build the car for based on the conditions above (I guess for the type of roads and possibly track, shorter gears are better?) I’m also quite unsure on which diff I should go for that will make the most out of whatever transmission I decide on. Do you guys have any thoughts as to what is the best pairing would be for the 2JZ in terms of transmission and diff? Can I stick with the long nose R200? Or do a SN R200 conversion, 8.8 conversion… etc. There are a few bits that’s I’ve read about general pros and cons on another forum but haven’t managed to find technical pros and cons/justifications that is specific to my chassis and swap. I’m not sure how much of that information I can take to crossover with my build so I just would rather ask to make sure. I’m sure I will gain some insight here from you knowledgeable people! Please let me know if you need any more info from me! Thank you very much. SS -
Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Hello everyone. I'm going to jump right in. I just installed a new motor. Fully stripped of emissions except charcoal canister. Cold start delete. Bcddd deleted and plugged. EGR delete. All new vacuum lines. New plugs E3's /wires MSD 7mm. New fuel pump (95psi) regulated to 35psi on rail, and filters before and after. Clean grounds. New battery, starter, alternator. Clean connections on injectors. All injectors were bench tested and contacts cleaned w/ new gaskets. Vacuum tested @ 17. New Fidanza flywheel installed with exedy clutch. The issue: Car starts right up strong. Will rev to 3k decent. If I hammer throttle it backfires out the exhaust. I have played with the AFM because both units I have already been played with. I have calibrated one using the guide on Atlanticz.ca and everything went well. On reinstall, the car would not start. I had to tighten the clock spring on afm for it to run again. Now it is soo tight I am afraid to go any further. If I hold extra tension on the AFM it runs beautiful and smooth to 6.5k easy. What else can/should I do to correct this issue? Open to all suggestions.
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Introducing our first product to hit the market is our 1971-1978 LED Emblem turn signal kit. Each kit is hand made at our shop in Las Vegas, NV. Our kit is a plug n play harness kit that integrates LED turn signals into the pillar emblem. Installation is easy and we even have a tutorial video posted to our YouTube channel. To order you can visit our website https://harmonresto.com/ or send a DM to our Instagram page! https://www.instagram.com/harmonresto/
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How's it goin? Well I have an issue with my 1977 280z 2+2, stock everything. I have run into the issue of the fuel becoming too hot and I just wanna know what others with the same or in the same general area. Any info/suggestions much appreciated!
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This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
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*Finally getting around to documenting my build. Will continue to update the text as I go. Happy to answer any questions. Feel free to also follow along on instagram for more frequent updates. I fell in love with the S30 chassis at around the age of 13 and tried to buy one or two as my first car. Unfortunately, being from the north east, anything I could afford had rust holes in structural areas you could put your hand through. After watching the price trend over the last few years, I decided I better act before I missed the boat. -Purchased sight unseen in October, 2018 from another member here. -The car started it's life in California, was shipped to Florida by the P.O., and then I shipped it back to California. I was living in Germany at the time, so the plan was to store it with my family and make trips to work on it whenever I found the time. -I purchased it as a roller since I'd always planned to do a swap anyway. It came with a lot of T3 and AZC suspension bits already in place, most of which I sold.
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Alright so i have an automatic 1978 280z that i wanna convert to manual. However everywhere i look it talks about getting a manual pedal box, my question is do i have to source a manual pedal box or is there even a difference in the automatic and the manual besides the clutch pedal? Also can i just buy a clutch pedal and attach it to the pedal box i already have? And are there any other alternatives to this, for instance if i can find a manual pedal box or attach a clutch pedal, is there any after market ones that’ll work like wilwood or something? Thank you
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I'm trying to diagnose a few things on my 75 280z 2+2, and I'm wondering if they might be related. Any help would be appreciated. Also, does anyone know why the section of my camshaft above cylinder #2 is red? Video. In summary, I can't seem to get power out of my engine. It used to run "great", but now I can barely get the car over 30mph. I ran a compression test, fearing a blown head gasket, but though the readings aren't great, I would have expected to get over 30mph with them (1: 170, 2: 156, 3: 167, 4: 169, 5: 160, 6: 165). That #2 cylinder seemed especially low, so I ran it with a tsp of oil in the cylinder, and no change - still 156. My vacuum is measuring low at about 13 in of Hg. I replaced all the old vacuum tubing, but it's still running low, even with most subsystems' vacuum lines blocked off. Fuel is spraying well out of all injectors. Fuel pressure is at 38 psi with the fuel pump on, but engine off, then drops down to ~30 psi when idling. Using a timing light, I adjusted the distributor til the engine was at exactly 10 degrees by the timing mark. I lashed the valves back in the day at cold, but I definitely hear a clicking from the engine that I don't love. Based on that and everything above, I imagined that I must have just screwed up the lash, so I opened the valve cover and checked, but no, the lash was exactly where I left it. So I don't know. Any pointers, ideas, or other debug steps would be appreciated. And yeah, if anyone knows why that section is red on the camshaft, I'd love to know! Thanks everyone. Valves in action
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And so the story begins... My son and I were talking about a project to do together. My friend Larry has been building and racing Z cars for many years and his wild enthusiasm was infectious. So we started casually searching for a car. We were looking for a 240 but couldn't be happier about what we found, given all that we've since learned in the process. I was looking on Craigslist and there she was, a '77 280Z in Reno. This was late October 2017 and I think the seller was asking $2000. I forwarded the post to my son, who lives in Reno, to see what his reaction would be. He drove over to the seller's house immediately and looked it over pretty carefully (or so it seemed) and called me up. We talked about it and he offered $1500 with no title, and the seller accepted. So we took a leap of faith and purchased our project car. I rented a trailer and drove up the next day, loaded her up, and took her back to our shop in Gardnerville, NV. It was apparently all original, with 93k miles and a sticker on the license plate from 1993. The seller had found it covered in dust in back of his friend's shop and similarly couldn't resist the temptation. He was planning to get it running, but it ended up just sitting in his garage, undriveable. There was a small box of parts in the back, with license plate from Alabama, with a sticker from '93l. We did a title search and 1993 was the last issued registration for the car. Alabama is known as the easy place to get a replacement title, but the starter had a sticker from a motor rebuild shop, in Alabama and we discovered later that the EGR port on the intake manifold was disabled by packing it with mud that could only have been from Alabama. At the time of the purchase, Nevada had made it the responsibility of the civil courts to award vehicle titles... oh boy. While not impenetrable, we were not looking forward to going through a court procedure for old Donna. Miraculously, two months later it was announced that, come July, it would once again be the responsibility of the Nevada DMV to award vehicle titles. As it should be! After a bit of back and forth with the Title Research Department we were awarded a bonded title. And a good thing too as we had already stripped her down by that point (more on that later). Something tells me there is no way we would've found a car like this for $1500 bucks if the seller had known he could've nabbed a title for it so easily only a few months later. Timing is everything! The seller also knew things about the car that we had not yet discovered. We weren't entirely sure how far we were going to go with it but have ended up on a fantastic journey, much much more to come. Here she is, as we found her:
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MODS: I apologize, should this be moved to Member Projects? Unoriginal, I know. Blasphemous, for sure; wouldn't have it any other way. I just wanted to pop in with the standard "Long time lurker" introduction. I've been trying to restore a Z for the past year and half, which has ballooned way over my head in what surprises a 40+ year old Datsun has in store for an unsuspecting hobbyist. It started off with buying a running, seemingly decent condition 280z which was to be a joint project for my girlfriend and me. We were going to do right by the car, keep it simple and just restore it. As we started to peel back the layers, that all started to change. Feb-April 2019 The car ran! Only had two owners, came with a lot of documentation and detailed sheet of when/what was done with all corroborating receipts. The guy literally tracked running hours on engine rebuild. It did start puffing a bit and he was forthcoming and stated it needed a head gasket. We start cracking away and the next set of photos you're all familiar with.... We got a quote on rebuilding the head and it came out to over $1000 since the components are hard to come by or custom. Looking at engine options through Datsun Spirit, who are local, just destroyed so much of the budget. Especially now that we had to battle the unseen cancer... We just started to tear everything apart. Sadness ensued. The best part of the car
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So I've been debating pulling the trigger or not and have finally found my favorite year of the 280z's and i must say in decent condition with minimal rust and for $2,000 must say it was definitely a good find. On to the details..The frame has 53,909 original miles and came with vin matching Motor and Transmission (4spd) previous owner also threw in a 5spd transmission. The motor was rebuilt using flat top high compression pistons, all work done by previous owner. Most of the rust found on the car was surface rust but no real rust except from the Radiator support in the front which seems to be a bit more severe. The interior is complete although the car has a missing front windshield so the interior has gone to shit but the good news the floor panels seem to be in great condition, found no holes on the underside of the car. Now onto the Project - My intentions are to do a 2JZGTE VVTi swap with the Getrag v161 6 speed transmission and a ford 8.8 differential (still haven't decided on gearing). I know in order to surpass the 1000whp mark I'm going to need to increase head flow, pistons, rods, springs, valves (3 angle valve job), retainers, cams, single turbo exhaust manifold and lastly the turbo still debating but will AT LEAST be starting with a 72-85. As far as suspension goes definitely open to suggestions. ....and some pictures
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I am in the research phase of my 280z build and have been going back and forth between the Arizona Z Car Track Pack and Techno Toy Tunings Packages that match ACZs offerings. The overall plan is the build my suspension and brakes to be strong and able to do anything I throw at it, whether it’s auto cross, track days or daily driving. I will be going with a LY6/T56/R200 drivetrain. I know there are threads that talk about both techno toy and AZC but I haven’t seen any definitive pros or cons to either kit and I would love to know if anyone else has gone through this and where you landed. -
Hello guys, I am having a headache trying to find out all the correct information about my engine. There are other people trying to fin out by using the casting numbers by the back of the engine but looks like the number has a printing error, I know it’s a 350 5,7, but I would like to know exactly what I have. does anyone has a good idea of how can I get all the information about my engine? Year? What vehicle was originally from? Hp, etc I need parts and the auto parts always give me issues as they need the year or model of my vehicle. I can’t tell them athat I have a Datsun 1975 with a sbc lol, Any help will be appreciated. I am opening another discussion to explain the issues. Thanks for your support, we can do “diy“ because we help each other. In a Chevy forum they replied telling that this is the engine information, How do I know to what vehicle it came from, or at list a vehicle for me to use when ordering parts
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Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?
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Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?
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I've looked through the FSM, my Haynes manual and searched forums on multiple sites. I can't identify this part on top of the thermostat housing and where the hoses are supposed to be attached. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Hey all. So I have had my 1977 280z for around 7 years now. Drove it for a couple when I first bought it. Started having issues with the L-Jet system. Spent a while troubleshooting but the more I fixed the more I found items that needed fixing. Ended up moving into an apartment, then bought a house, sold the house, etc. barely worked on it for a few years. My now fiance and I bought a farm house with a big ole workshop (about 2500sqft, 3 bays, 1 dumptruck bay) and I got back into making my dream car just that. I decided now was the time to do it right. My Z had rotted floors, rotted frame rails, rotted fenders, rotted firewall. tons and tons of structural rot. Good thing I am a welding and metallurgical engineer and have plenty of fabrication equipment and experience (I hope). I cut out both floors, the firewall on the passenger side, fender well, and patched the "torque box" area of the frame in front of the firewall...one panel at a time. Most of these welds have been gas backed or flux shielded, or copper backed. Derek Macheski provided the floor support rails for my build (I think hes on here somewhere) as a partial trade for my motor. I am pairing my Z up with a Ford 5.0 small block V8. The donor vehicle was a 2001 mercury Mountaineer which means this is the highest performance factory 302W offered but also brings up some challenges; 1: The heads are GT40P heads which requires special or custom headers. The only headers currently manufactured that fit correctly are long tubes which will not fit the S30 engine bay. 2: The upper and lower intake are quite tall and require the engine be mounted somewhat lower in addition to possible hood clearance modification. 3: The engine is returnless and distributorless and I will be using the factory EFI harness and ECU, tuned with protune and probably a Moates QH chip. The current state of the build: I have completed most of the fabrication work, a few odds and ends that need to be finished but nothing major. I have the engine, transmission, and headers all in the vehicle and everything seems to fit. I am currently working on thinning the EFI harness of all unnecessary equipment using an old factory electrical schematic and some help from the folks over at the explorer forums.
