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Showing results for tags '280z'.
Found 310 results
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I just picked up 1975 280z. Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender. The goal for this project is phased project. 1. To run the engine 2. Fix minor rust 3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion 4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap. 5. Paint the car Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...
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I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts
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Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Great to have found HybridZ Forums. Have been reading lots of useful zinformation for 2-3 hours and decided to register. This red ‘77 280Z is my 4th Z recently purchased in November 2018. In my late 20s to early 30s I owned a ‘73 240Z, ‘75 280Z and ‘74 260Z in that order. Of course they were fairly new back in the day. That’s me in 1979 with my silver ‘75 280Z. Wish I could have kept it. LOL Yes, I absolutely love these beautiful S30 Datsuns. Look forward to the forums here being a great resource for maintaining our 40+ year old cars. It’s a passion and love affair!
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This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366 -
hi....need front plastic panel for this type sunroof....905-857-6345 phone or text - rob showcars-bodyparts.com
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Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler ,
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Hey guys like the title says I am new here , my name is wayde been planning this swap for 5 years now, and actively workin on it for just over a year now. I posted in the members projects section under s30 , including a list of everything that's added to the engine aftermarket wise, don't think I mentioned rear sump conversion but there is a picture. please let me know what you think , happy to answer any questions and hoping to get feedback on what I could or should do next, because a project is never done -
After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...- 51 replies
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Looking for some advice before I dive head first into the engine bay. It is a 1977 280z pretty stock minus headers So I had accidentally left my head lights on. So, of course, my battery died. I tried to jump start the car and it cranked and smelled of gas but wouldn't turn over. I figured I might have flooded the engine for trying to much so I let the car sit for about 24 hours. I brought a new battery (tested and all so I know it works) and it was the same problem. The engine cranks and I smell gas but it won't actually turn over. The ignition coil has spark. The distributor has spark. But it just won't turn over. Any ideas of what to check? Also I should add the for about a week and a half before this happened my car has been running a bit rough. It just started out of nowhere. The engine has a bit more shake to it and there seems to be a good loss of power. I kind of suspected the water temp sensor since I had a problem with it in the past. I replaced it's plug but not the sensor itself. And if I ever touched it while the car was running it would cause a rough idle. Anyways if anyone can give me some advice it would be much appreciated. I'd just like to add that I'm a young car enthusiast. I know my way around a wrench (I've changed the intake and exhaust manifold myself and cleaned up some wiring) but I'm far from an expert. And I know very little about the science of electricity.
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Hello Everyone, recently I have become an owner of running 1977 Datsun 280Z. I have always loved them and wanted to get hands on one of them, I have gotten my hands on this 280Z 2+2 GHLS 4 SPD. I am in love with the car, but it does have its flaws. I would like to sincerely ask the HybridZ community for any and all the help you all can provide on bringing my car to at its best. The known issues so far are as follows: All the lights work other than the front Headlights, and Hazard button does not work. Passenger door does not close fully and it seems does not latch on to the hook. Water on the floor of the car from rain seems to be getting in from the doors. Shift boot is nonexistent and can see the ground from the shift lever. (hence the fumes from busted exhaust are almost at hazardous level while driving the car) Atlast the Dreaded Rust is certainly present but it is not severe at as far as I can tell. I am very excited to join the community and would like to humbly ask for all of your help to keep this beautiful car alive and well. Thanks
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This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
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Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already had the SR20DET swap which is a little rough round the edges, but in the PO defence, he had 28 day warranty on the engine so had to get it into the car as soon as he could to make sure it checked out OK. This wasn't long after he had it all up and running. I drove home that night with a huge smile on my face knowing I would be a Z car owner!! My dream car was going to be mine. So the day came to swap the cars, here is an image of the 2 cars together..
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Hey y'all, I need some clarification. From what I've read in various forums and conversations & a few google searches. Datsun utilized 2 or 3 versions of the 5 speed for the 280z. Again, from what I've read. It seems as though the later 80-83 version is the more desirable due to it being a close ratio gearbox compared to the earlier versions. And from what I can tell, it doesn't seem as though there is any identification numbers stamped on the transmission. I did read that if the 5 speed has one hanger at the tail end then it's the more desirable version compared to the earlier version which would have two hangers/forks? There was a 4204C label stamped on it, not that this probably helps. If anyone can tell me which version of the 5 Speed I bought, I'd appreciate it. Did anything that I mentioned above seem to be completely wrong? Thank you in advance!
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Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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Hey everyone, this build will document my tear down and rebuild of a 1977 280z. This is my first restoration project and as such, I plan to take this slowly and methodically so I can remember how to build it back up! My goals for this build: Complete teardown, soda/abrasive blast entire body Fix any rust and dents Paint - Not sure what color yet, but factory color is blue. I like the blue color and might think about a white racing stripe, but again, I am not 100% on the color scheme yet. Install a 5.3 LS (LM7) engine and t56 6-speed (eventual power goal is 350-400 hp) Install a R200 LSD (final gear ratio TBD). The car has a R180 open diff most likely, I will confirm as I get to removing the suspension. Refinish the interior - Most the plastic is in terrible condition, everything is very brittle and the center console and dash are cracked pretty badly. My goal is a light tan leather interior with some modern updates (power windows, locks, seat heaters, new head unit, racing wheel). The interior is white/tan currently and I like the white with blue combo so that is in the running. I feel I am about 1-2 years, at least, away from having to decide on this. Complete everything myself so I can learn about each and every aspect of this process. I might consider farming out engine rebuild because I really don't want to mess that up, but my initial plan would be just to use stock internals on the engine, and rebuild the engine after the car is up and running for a while. Have Fun! Don't get too frustrated or more importantly take a break when stuck. My next post is going to detail the current state of the car. I welcome all input, advice, and suggestions!
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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Went to the Dyno today expecting to do 5 pulls and get a horsepower number. I am planning a significant amount of upgrades soon so I wanted a baseline. This place lets you run the car yourself on the dyno. I had never done something like this before, so my first run I stopped at 5500 RPM. The second run I went all the way to 6200 RPM. Better numbers, but we thought there was an air leak. Upon closer inspection, we saw coolant going everywhere! Apparently a weird old T-fitting on coolant lines had failed. It killed my dyno session. Luckily, the shop let me replace the T-fitting there myself using their equipment and I was able to head home. But not without this interesting dyno chart! This is a 99% stock L28ET. Swapped by previous owner around 2004. The only thing not stock is that the air intake is moved in front of the radiator and there is an oil cooler. Dyno Chart Peak Power: 148.86 hp at ~5700 RPM - MEGA POWER!!! Peak Torque: 161.37 ft/lbs at ~4400 RPM EDIT: Done with 1978 280z 5-speed transmission and rear diff in 3rd gear. I'm gonna be honest - I thought there was more power under there lol. But I'm not complaining! It certainly feels like it with how light this car is. But what the heck is with everything taking a dump @5k? Action Shots: Coolant Pouring!! The busted T-fitting - wtf is this thing? Fresh T-fitting Installed! My buddy who was nice enough to come by and help!
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Hey to all, I am testing the waters to see what my project's worth as is. I do not have the time to complete this project on my own. I'm willing to throw money at it to finish, but don't know where to take it. I live in Southwest Louisiana in case you're wondering. Refreshed engine - New gaskets, ARP bolts, OEM head gasket Sanded, primed, and bedlined engine bay and cleared with metal flake Borg-Warner 7670D Twin Scroll 1.05A/R About the car: Bought the car in New Mexico. Surface rust beneath the fenders but can be sanded out. No rust on floor boards up front. Surface rust near the back of the seat mounts but nothing serious. I the frame rails need to be repaired as there is rust damage there. No rust around drip rails, or in spare boot. No rust on or around hatch. Illumina adjustable springs and eibach springs bought for front and back. Only back has been installed, along with poly bushings. Carbon Fiber rear spolier and front splitter 5-speed manual that came with the engine Bought but not installed: New weather strip kit for whole car Eibach lowering springs (front) and tokico illumina adjustable (front) Poly bushings for front suspension I have a spare R-200 that comes along with it, but it's not worth much as I thought it was an LSD, which it isn't.
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FOR SALE: “BUYER PAYS SHIPPING/PAYPAL FEE” R200 mustache bar W/poly bushings~ $100 N42 Intake W/egr provisions ~Sold! Afco racing radiator SOLD! Tokico illumina struts(280z) adjustment tab broken on 1 ~Sold! D/S Headlight buckets Sold! ECU/harness (A11-600 000) out of running car~$60 Tabco S30 P/S lower quarter patch panel~SOLD! Parking lights w/black trim ~Sold! Upper int panel (2+2) ~$15 S30 front control arms/no bushings~Sold! S30 rear control arm~$25 Rear strut mount cap~$5 2+2 quarter window trim~$10 each 2+2 Sill plates “Datsun” on center~ $10 each Reman Alternator ~$25 280z heater core~$20 280z hood release cables ~$15 each 280z half shafts (R200) ~$20 each S30 hood hinges~$30 S30 wiper arms~Sold! Hood latch~$5 Poly steering coupler~$5 Fuel filter bracket~$5 Fuse box cover~$10 ECU cover~$10 280Z Distributor(off running car) ~Sold Hood prop rod w/clip~$5 PM me for PayPal info..... Items ship from Fall River,Massachusetts -
I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one problem and end up with 10 new ones. 20180719_194207.mp4
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Trying to free up some space and get some funds for the car. All prices are obo, will ship at buyers expense. F54 short block, rolls smooth block and bearings are clean but the coolant passages are a little crusty - 200$ P90a head from same engine - sold L28 turbo manifold - sold 4 speed tranny out of a 77' 280z - 100$ OEM replacement clutch for 280z brand new from z car depot didn't end up needing - 80$ Stainless steel flywheel bolt set - make offer Rear maxima flat brackets - 100$ 280z RH door latch 60$ Interior/exterior door handles and rods - make offer 280z throwout bearing brand new - 15$ L28et intake manifold - 50$ -
I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?
