RangerWill

Another thing. While pumping the brake there is a lot of movement in the reservoirs. I can see thw fluid trying to jump out of the reservoirs. Good hard stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder valves though. At a lose.

Gentlemen need your help. I have a 77 280z. Stock brakes. Today I changed out my wheel clylinders for the rear and pads in the front. I did pull the calipers so I know I lost my system pressure there. Like the title says I've bled this thing 5 times now. Master first, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. 5 pumps then hold. Open the valve while the pedels down. Close the valve, release the pedel. Issue. The pedel feels great. Lots of pressure from top to bottom. On test drives the back brakes grab and the front doesn't. If I pump while driving the calipers will finally grab. What the hell?!?!?! I know i have new fluid all through the system. Also new MC and booster. Brakes worked fine before I disconnected the calipers and changed the wheel cylinders. Need some help guys. Got a car show in the morning. Haha.

1977 280z. All stock but, shaved intake, 240sx TB, fire ball coil, thunderbolt 550 wires, MSA intake, MSA headers. That's pretty much all that's done to the motor. Oh new rotor and cap.

I've checked all my connections. I have a 240sx TB and the MSA cold air intake. I forgot to mention that a deputy helped jump me after we got it to the gas station and it started. Ran great for 3 minutes or so and then just died again.

Car was running great. Just filled up w/premium. Drove about 10 miles 5 of which on the highway. Got off the exit and it just died. I did last night take the idle air control valve off and capped the ports. That's the only thing I've changed. I know I'm getting fuel. I can see the psi on the rail gauge. It hits so I know I have spark. Just at a loss. Stuck at a ghetto BP station. HELP!

Borini63 - I'm interested in your turbo motor and trans. What are you looking to get for both? Miles?

Done deal. I'll PM you as soon as I get of work to work out the details.

looking to buy a injector cooler and heat sheild . stock or an aftermarket/fabricated one. ready to buy asap

CSV is now nis-connected. Probably explains the fuel smell and white smoke on the hesitant start ups. Ordered some good heat wrap and blanket. Going to fab up a heat shield. Any suggestions on the shield?

I too have the coated MSA headers. Fuel is routed almost stock. Stock location of the fuel filter. From the filter running near the radiator to the fuel rail. After the rail it runs to the FPR mounted on the fire wall. Then returned to the tank.

At least* I wouldn't think...... Gotta love that auto correct. Haha.

I always pressurize the rail before attempting to start it. That's not the problem. Also that wouldn't explain why if I turn it off and immediately try to restart it it hesitates. There's no way it vaporizes that quickly. At I wouldn't think. Even if I don't run the fuel out of the rail the pressure will slowly leave on its own. From 40psi to 0 in about 10 mins.

No there's no heat shielding at all.

Little background, I have a 77 280z. Ive been working on for about 5 years between deployments and the Army moving me here and there. Not a lot done to the motor. Lots else where though. MUAH HAHA . - Shaved intake, ISK fuel rail W/ gauge, Fuel lap pressure regulator, 240SX TB, MSA 6-1 header, Fireball coil, Thunderbolt plug wires,MSA cold air intake, NGK plugs, new stock injectors ISSUE - Motor very hesitent to fire up after any lengh of driving. I could start it and then fire it right back up and it struggles. Has to have an all night cool for it to fire right up. Otherwise Im on the starter 3 times of about 10 seconds to get it to hit and fire up. Once it does it runs like crap for about 5 mins and the as normal. I have read and read posts hopeing to find the answer and thought I had with Heat Soak. Thinking my Fuel in the Rail was vaporizing and then not wanting to fire the car off. Not the case I believe. To combat this I installed a hot switch to my fuel pump and disconnected the normally driven wiring. My plan was to simply run the fuel out of the rail and in theory there would be no fuel to Vaporize. Once I was ready to start it up again, flip of the switch to once again pressurize the rail with some fresh fuel. Sounds to me like this would work. WRONG! Damnit...... haha. I was actually starting to fab up a heat sheild until my hot switch fuel pump idea. Since I know there is no fuel in the rail to Vaporize Im at a TOTAL LOSS.................................... So tired of my car running like a damn champ and then not wanting to start up. It just runs to well to think of the common plugs, points, cap issues. I need your help guys. Its driving me INSANE not being able to figure this out. Hell, Id even PAY $$$ to get this issue resolved. Yes, Its come to that. PLEASE HELP. haha. Heres a pic of my Beautiful BABY...........................

Similar issue here as well. 77 280z w/a few engine mods and deletes. I also thought to run a hot switch to the fuel pump and did. Fixed nothing. I have to run the starter for at least 20 seconds to get it to fire up while the motor is hot. With the engine cold it fires right up. Just a couple turns of the starter. I'm at a loss. Someone help us please!!!!!!!! Haha.

Gotcha. Phil nailed it. Thanks man. Thanks to all for your help Phil - your YouTube videos continue to inspire me. Through 3 combat tours kept me thinking of my Z.

awesome. that hels alot. futher question though. can you tell what color wire is coming out of the fire wall for the temp sensor? looks like im going to have to jump back into it. no idea where that wire went. thanks

ok. Issues finding a couple hook ups and where they go. I have a 77 280z with a recent intake and fuel rail mod. it had a egr intake before .now doesnt. First - right above the two injector style connectors on the front of the themostat houseing unit there is a small outlet that looks like a vacum fitting. I have no idea what this is connected to. help please. Secondly - middle lead off of the evap canister. no idea where this goes. if you could just fill me in on where all of them go I would appreciate it. now that my intake no longer has an emissions on it. what do I do with that line? thanks again guys.

Finally getting around to starting my beloved Z. Got around to installing my shaved intake and ISK fuel rail. FuelLab pressure regulator. New injectors. Because im impatient i hard wired the fuel pump to the battery to save all of 5 minutes. Gauge on the rail shoot way past 60psi(i know its supposed to be around 32psi). Killed the fuel pump and fuel starting pouring out of the threaded hole underneath the middle runner. Why is there fuel coming outta there? fixable? I have a few ideas but looking for other thoughts. Thanks Ladies and Gentlemen! - DS Oliver

Need a set of Rear Strut Insulators for a 77 280z ASAP. Would be willing to purchase all four. The rears are a must. shipped to 31905

I have a non-webbed but it is a EGR. Too easy to block that off. Great shape. $100

Unsure if I'm able to get them from the above member. So I'm still in need if anyone has these.

Pm sent.

Need both front and rear insulators. Anyone got them? Lol.

Jelly Doughnut supply can be provided! haha. RichRacing, Im sure there will be work to be done. Id love to take that Shaved Intake and Fuel Rail off your hands. Thanks Brother.