kaito
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Posts posted by kaito
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I just wired up my vr distributor via this diagram http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html but for some reason it's not working. I used the paste and have it mounted in the fender against bare clean metal. I got the hei chip from autozone. Is there a way to test this? I don't want to remove the dizzy for fear of messing up timing. Any feedback would be appreciated.
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Oh and btw LC-1 sucks. Try zietronix, I have the zt3 and love it.
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Yeah that is what I meant. Timing was fixed to 0 in the table and trigger offset was set to 60 then I turned the distributor until I saw 0 while cranking.
It was late last night so I have not verified timing while it was idling
Thats how you do it. Like the other guy said though, make sure you check it agin for accurate timing and make sure when you are running it with an actual ignition table that it reads what it says its supposed to be.
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I just used the stock turbine housing to make my t3/t4 hybrid. I just used radius gauges and a lathe to port it out to hold a t4 p-trim wheel. Works great.
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I run the T04B-H trim with a T3 exhaust turbine (stage 3). Boost comes on slow and steady, almost feels like a big non-turbo engine. Would work really well for an autocross car, due to the slower increase of engine torque.
Makes 5 psi of boost at 3000 rpm and full boost by 3500 (running about 12 psi).
The free flowing turbine allows 80 mph driving with 10 inhg vacuum. The stock turbine was at 0 inhg at this speed (starting to make boost).
According to the compressor maps, my engine should be in compressor surge at 3000 rpms, but it isn't in real life. I miss the low rpm boost of the stock turbo but i'm not going to try low boost with this compressor due to the surge risk. This compressor is better when used with a stage 1 or bigger camshaft (higher rpm cam), or at least use a NA cam.
Finally, the T04B-H clears the intake manifold with out the spacer that is required for the T04E-50 trim compressor.
I didn't need a spacer for my t04e 50 trim compressor housing on the stock turbine housing.
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I would just shim it to what is the "best" recommended stack for your powerlevel and then install it and drive it around a bit. I had the same problem assembling my obx and I just said eff it and installed it. A drive later and I could move the tires with my hand. Weird but true.
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You can wire the third brake light wire to the brake light bulbs in the taillight assy and connect the other end to the brake light switch on the brake pedal. You might need to play with a test light to find the hot wires but its not too much of a pain.
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I dont know what you are talking about with using longer valves but I just put an n42 head on a l24 that was bored out 1 mm and the valves didnt hit the walls. The best way to check is to put the head on, torque down the head bolts and turn the motor over SLOWLY by hand. It will bind if there is not enough clearance. have fun!
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Its pretty much stopped. Im prepping the car to sell it and I may or may not do the swap before I sell it. I havent decided yet.
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Mine is glitching out too. I thought I did/said something wrong. lol
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Ive got a set of early 260z bumpers and a 280z style stock airdam if you are interested. Just pm me with the price you are willing to pay and we can go from there. I also have an msa 6-2-1 squareport headers.
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I've got a 260 with coilovers and a modified l28et with megasquirt if you are interested. Pm me if interested.
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Waking up an old thread. Touching base with what pallnet said, I just purchased an sr20 koyorad for my s30 and its not going to fit without modification. Its about 1/2 inch too wide so I plan on notching the frame rails a bit to make it fit. I plan to notch the rails and cap them with 18 gauge. We shall see......
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you must not have seen the big phil video. Long video short, You will need to weld it to the turbo manifold and port the sheeooot out of the wastegate hole to keep off the boost creep. Its better to weld some schedule 40 piping to the bottom of the manifold and weld the flange to that.
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I have a set from a 74. If I remember correctly that tank is the same size as the 75/76, just with fuel injection. let me know it you want them.
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I think I have a set I can let go. Let me check and get back to you in the morining. I think they are stock bore. None have rods though. I Might even have a few good 86.5s as well. Ill take pics and let you decide.
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SOOOO awesome!!! You should be able to make a pretty agressive ignition map with it carbbed N/A like that. I would throw a big lumpy cam on it and rev it to the moon with that setup! Btw, if you make a cover for the dizzy I would be interested in seeing the end result.
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Just wanted to touch base with this thread in case anyone was curious about it. I just tried acid washing the tank with muriatic acid and it seems like its gonna need alot more baths. Its alittle rustier than I first thought but nothing a little elbo grease cant take care of. I will probably leave the inside of the tank bare. I have been reading lots of threads on tank sealers and have come to the conclusion that it wouldnt be worthwhile. Seems that there are only one or two sealers that are compatible with e10+. More to come.
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I picked up the tank tonight, after just looking at it I can tell that its going to work well for me with minimal fab work. I plan on trying a dry mock up tomorrow while the wife is out ( I really need to be cleaning the engine bay out like Im supposed to). It turns out that the guy is a buddy from Japan. Man its a small world!! Anyways, I ended up getting it for $30 but its pretty rusted inside. Its kind of ironic because thats the reason I got the cell in the first place. Should have just cleaned my original tank.
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Im thinking about pulling out my 20 gallon fuel cell to put in an RX7 fuel tank. Just curious if anyone else has done this or has seen it done. Searching netted zero results. I have no spare tire well and I managed to squeeze a 20 galllon unit in there but the cell isnt cutting it. The RX7 tank even has the filler on the correct side. Im pretty excited to find out. I pick up the tank tomorrow and Ill let ya all know how it goes.
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Me too Daniel! Hows the new project going?
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Sorry for the bad info fellas. Definitely don't want anyone to ruin parts on account if my stupidity. Just curious as to why grinding teeth off would cause noise issues? Not questioning knowledge, just curious.
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Gomene, double post.
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Sounds like you need these?
I think he is thinking of these but remeber he needs the ones for a 280z, those are for a 240/early 260z cars.
Hei 4 pin module can't get spark
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Thanks for the help everyone. I checked the hei module by giving the G spade 12v as Metro suggested and got a nice fat spark so I did as NewZed suggested and checked the pick up coil. It was dead. Got a new one installed and everything works great. Thanks again Hybrid Z for being the reliable valuable wealth of information that you always are!!!