kaito
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Posts posted by kaito
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MazerRackham,
Where will you place the amp for the sub? Definately looks like a thief would have a challenge with stealing that.
Sunny Z,
Here is a pic of another members(I believe) 280z with a 12" sub in the drivers side just as you were mentioning. Not trying to jack your thread in any way Mazer.
I saw this car at the JCCS in ...09, or O'10? gorgeous car even underneath.
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Mine feels pretty good BUT I just installed it and it clunks. I havent investigated the cause yet but I feel it is due to improper lash. I set it up according to the fsm and it felt tight before it was run but now there is a lot of slack in the driveline, If I shift my car into gear with the clutch pedal depressed it will clunk. (enter sadface here) Other than the clunk though, it acts very good, two wheel burnouts, normal low speed turning, but it seems to induce a bit of understeer when engaging. It is a MUCH more mild engagement than my welded diff. BTW I hated that welded diff. All in all it is worth the money if you are willing to put in the extra effort that money didnt and pull it out and reinspect if things arent quite right.
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Camber plates change the height of the car without affecting strut travel because they replace the stock upper isolator mount that is 2 inches thick. The rear top isolator is even thicker on 280zs.
Regarding the cheesy msa style camber adjusters, I can't say from experience but I personally wouldn't use them. Plus I has heard that they will snap off the threaded part of the strut insert because they don't flex like the stockers do. That's just what I read though.
Regarding your question on sectioning, just follow Jon and the dirtys30 thread and you will be fine. I did mine wih the parts and instructions from 3t and I wished I had followed the mentioned posts. Good luck.
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Cool man, looks like a good start. I sandblasted all mine and put some crappy paint on them. Word of advice if you like your ride low, I couldnt get mine low enough and also have enough strut travel without having to add camber plates.
Also section your front struts to fit the cartridges without a spacer (carefully with measurements.) Again this is if you want to be low and have travel. Good luck.
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How much did you pay for the car? I hope it wasnt much.
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Ive been reading up on the z31 clsd swap and it really looks like you would have to have custom length halfshafts made unless you want to chance messing up the diff. I looked into the 280zxt cvs, the z31 n/a units which apparently are just 280zxt units, as well as the 87.5-89 units that seem to be the stronger of them all. If you got a good deal on the unit with cvs and dont have a lowered s30 you can probably get away with the mods you have to do to fit them. As for the cv adapters, you can make them yourself if you have a welder and alittle know-how. Good luck though.
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Do you know if anyone offer a turn key set-up with core swap?
Techno toy tuning has that option, plus you get 200 bones store credit for the cores!
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I think you will be fine with the cops as long as you have something that says e.o. and exhaust on the same paper. CA cops are stupid. I also had headers and a straight pipes on the flattop motor and it was loud but I never got pulled over. This was in san diego, but in the cops defense my car looked like it was falling apart.
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I just did this with a rebel wiring 9+3 harness using all the factory switches. I got all my wiring info from my fsm (just for wiring colors) and the painless sticky. Some of my stuff didnt match up with the sticky info but Ill definetly look at my stuff when I get home and help you out. just give me a few hours, Im still at work.
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I agree with kiwi. Also, the inside of the block only gets as hot as the oil (maybe a bit hotter) but the intake runners are in between the exhaust runners and therefore subject to much more heat. I wouldnt trust the stuff to stay inside the intake walls for long.... plus it is sensitive to other chemicals like brake fluid and carb cleaner. Just my 0.02
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Hey sleeperz, pallnet actually recommends using jb weld to install his fittings for the barbed rail. I just used some form-a-gasket (fuel resistant one) and that fixed te leak I had.
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The z32 tranny WILL hold. Ican hold around 600ft lbs before it needs upgraded. Im with mike kz though, it would be much easier and cheaper to use a gm trans.
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Hey man,
Your **** is getting done quick. Sorry I wasnt able to come out. Some last minute stuff popped up. I should have at least texted you. My bad. Looking good btw!!! Im excited for you.
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I will quote you because your information is inaccurate or at least incomplete. If you only swap the bottoms of the distributor as indicated can be done, the design of the NA drive shaft will cause timing instabilities of up to 3 degs. If constantly having you timing change is acceptable, please go ahead and try this.
You are absolutely right about the timing scatter boss. I forgot to mention that. My n/a dizzy had ALOT of scatter when revving the motor without a load. Cant imagine what it did then i was actually driving the car. Again though, my bad.
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I was thinking these cars were *** until i saw the front and WORKING exhausts... then it became awesome!!!! Yeah, for real son.
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Dang, I guess I stepped on some poeples feet with my comment. Sorry bout' that guys. Gollum is right though, My trans was in poor condition from the PO but im sure I didnt help either. My trans upgrade is for future upgrades and dropping the clutch without worry for the trans.
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You could always get the z32 trans adapter from autin hoke or mazworx and go that route. I just picked up a tranny for 50 bucks and austins kit cost 400 plus the price of a driveshaft ( im thinkin 1-250),that coupled with an r200 and cv axles would give you a STOUT drivetrain. I heard rumors of the z32 trans taking 600 ponies all day, so with my white bunny special, I should be good to about 350-400.
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let me know if you want it. Im gonna blow it up otherwise.
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I got my star spindle from a member here, but you can modify your turbo dizzy to accept the n/a drive spindle. Dont quote me but I believe it involves removing the roll pin on the bottom of the dizzy and switching the pieces at the bottom of the dizzies. I also plan on using the dizzy as a signal for cam and crank, thats EXACTLY why to diy wheel was even made.
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My buddy had a ms2 l28et that acted as you describe. I updated his firmware and it went away for the most part. After it warmed up, it ran like crap> come to find out it was a blown headgasket. I would just look at ALL the little things you can before you get too into the troubleshooting. Having an extra eye helps sometimes also. I often see stuff that people overlook while troubleshooting. Dont worry, you will get it though. Good luck.
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Your title implies that you're looking for a 240SX trans already converted, but your message says you're looking for a belhousing/front case from an L28 trans so you can do your own.
Im in San diego btw, and to newzed, im sure he would take either, its cool of you to be technical though.
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I have one that you can have but Im over 9 hours away from you. There are plenty in socal.
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Ok, I'll swing by Sunday then.
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Hey man it's looking good. You mind if I come back out this weekend and take a look?
thinking about megasquirt
in Megasquirt
Posted
What I did for my 240sx tps was, I cut off the old mounting ears from the old l28 tps and drilled holes more holes in the ears, then I bolted the ears to the 240sx tps and then mounted that on the stock l28 throttle body. The sx tps is narrower at the mounting points.