jt1

Call comp up, Cash. They will tell you all about it. I'd reuse the bolts no problem unless some of them felt "stretchy" when torquing them. Spring for new gaskets. John

zfan, you might want to take a look at my post "A trip to the chassis dyno". Our combo is very similar, I've got a little less cam and am using a ebrock air gap. I bet you are rich, maybe play with jets, squirters, or power valve. Also check to see that your distributor is getting all the advance in pretty quickly. I run 36 deg and get it all by 2200 rpm. If your dist is advancing slowly, it can really hurt the bottom end. Lighter springs are the answer. My car really didn't impress me much on the dyno, but it's got a 3.54 with a quaife and 225/60-15's and hitting the throttle in first or second from idle on up is a smokefest. Grump's right about the performer rpm, they are great intakes, but you probably have tuning issues too.

Well, after reading BLKMGK and zya's posts, I thought these guys are talking about vacumn secondaries. I'm running a double pumper, so it HAS to be opening up all the way. Doesn't it???? Huh???? I got a friend to stomp it wide open while I peered down the carb. Heck, the secondary plates were only going to about 10 o'clock, not anywhere near vertical. I needed another 1/2" travel on the throttle cable to get WOT. Boy am I mega pissed. My throttle cable bracket, which bolts with only one bolt to the rear of the carb, had rotated enough to lose that 1/2" travel. I readjusted it and tightened the daylights out of it. I may need to think about a different bracket. I thought the car was a little weak on the track, but blamed it on the hot weather. Thanks for the help, guys. Now I wonder how much that affected the dyno pulls? dsommer, the twisted wedge heads are angle plug, but not nearly as much as the 292/492 chevy heads. I estimate them to be angled about 15 deg, while the 292's are probably about 30 deg. I'm using the hooker block hugger's and the JTR mounts, and the steering column clears the header by about 1/4", no dimple's required. I tried the block huggers on the 292 heads and the front and rear plugs dead center the tubes, not even close to fitting. I posted some photo's at http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=798227&uid=545559 Check them out. John

** Been gone a few days** Mike, my car weighs 2560 without driver. It's only been to a drag strip once for a T&T night. Best was 7.70 @ 93 mph in the 1/8. No quarters anywhere close around here. I've been pleased with how the car runs, but after looking at grumpy's dyno summary page, a lot of combo's similar to mine are up in the 425 - 450 range. Am I missing something? I might be a jet size or two rich, but nothing major. Any thoughts, any body?

I went to a HPDE at Carolina Motorsports Park this past weekend, and there was a guy there with a chassis dyno. $50 bucks for two pulls. OK, lets give it a try. Strapped her down and let it rip. Here are the results: rpm torque hp 3400 335 220 3600 340 235 3800 348 250 4000 352 268 4200 340 272 4400 330 280 4600 328 288 4800 317 292 5000 309 295 5200 302 300 5400 297 305 5600 289 308 5800 271 300 6000 262 300 6200 250 295 These results are the averages of the two pulls, interpolated from the graphs, so there not perfect. There are a few wiggles, but the graphs are usually within 5 units of each other. Using the 20% loss rule, this indicated 385 hp and 440 ft-lbs. at the flywheel. Ambient temp was 92 deg., but the humidity wasn't bad. Overall I was pretty pleased considering the car's mild manners. Here's the combo: 4 bolt block, 30 over cola 4340 crank Manley H beam 5.7 rods J&E flattops, 0.020 down, giving 10.1 to 1 comp Pump premium gas Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, stock Ebrock air gap intake Holley 750 DP, not certain of jets, a little rich GM HEI ignition, stock Comp solid roller 268AR 224/224 @ 050, 525/525 lift Hooker block hugger headers into single 3" exhaust with 3" flowmaster Future plans are a MSD, cutting the choke tower off the holley(with a drop base air cleaner, the tower is close to the cover and probably a restriction) and playing with jetting a little, maybe with an O2 sensor. Does anyone have any thoughts, comments, or oberservations? I mainly use the car for some street use and the HPDE/road racing thing, and am mainly interested in a wide flat torque curve more than peak hp. I also met hybridz member bubafett, who is a super nice guy. We talked cars until I had to go out for my next run. All in all it was a great weekend, if a little hot.

Bubbafett, are you the fellow I talked to at Kershaw Sunday? I was driving the white 240 with the red 28 on it. Your post sounds very similar. I tried to email you but the email in your profile didn't work. John

Pete, sorry on the brand name and parts numbers. We dug thru a big box with about a zillion shims in it, no names or numbers.

blueoval, I couldn't find any info on the preload either. The good diff that I wound up using was very tight, like yours. I had to use two large pry bars to lift the carrier out of the housing. I took the ring gear off and reinstalled the carrier with the same shims, and it took 10-12 inch-pounds to turn the carrier. I reinstalled the quaife to the same amount of torque, adding several thin shims cause the quaife was narrower than the open carrier. This was so tight that I had to put all the thin shims in, then tap the thick spacer in with a brass hammer. I had to tap it hard enough that I was worried about breaking or deforming it. Once again, I had to pry the quaife out with two large bars. Other rearends I had done, mostly Mopar 8 3/4's, have a screw type adjuster to set the preload, so this spooked me a little. So far, at least, it seems to working well. It's very quiet, and after about 500 miles I changed the oil and the magnet was perfectly clean.

Mike, the first rearend was a disaster. Even though it looked pretty good when I set it up, when I put it in the car, it sounded like a jet airplane. The guy I got it from said it was making a noise, and that was a huge understatement. Pulled it back out, tore it down, the gearset was junk. Tore down my good diff, put the quaife in it, set it up again, put it back in the car. This was a success. Quiet as could be. Took the car to a HPDS at Carolina Motorsports Park at Kershaw, SC. I was really impressed with the quaife. Previously any hard throttle app would lite up the inside rear tire, particuarly the right rear. With the quaife, both rear tires hooked very well until they would both break loose. What I really like was that the engagement was very smooth- you couldn't feel the diff grab like a locker, and their was no minor slippage of the inside rear like lsd's usually do. I was really pleased and would buy another. There's a lot of little gears in there, but quaife says they have a lifetime warranty. I'm sold. John.

Nick, that black car with a red engine comparment is a really great looking combo. I've never seen that before and think it is double bad. The rest of the car looks nice too. Nice ride.

E-brock air gap here, 750DP, drop base filter with 3" element, jtr kit, about 1/2" clearance to the hood.

My car, which has a jtr kit, has 225F/200R on it and it is a very tight ride on the street. Drives like a dream though. If I was going to put a lot of street miles on it, I'd probably want to soften it some.

Mike, thanks for the help. I found a set of generic shims at a local parts house that worked perfectly. I didn't know to ask about universal shims until you mentioned it. The backlash was about 0.035 to start with, got it down to 0.006 with a nice pattern on the gears. I'm going to put the rearend back in the car tonight, hopefully try her out tomorrow. I'm going to a driver ed school this weekend, and was really hoping to get the quaife installed. Thanks again for the help. John

I've set up other rearends before, but this is my first R200. I'm installing a quaife, and it is about 0.010-0.012 narrower than the open diff, giving me excessive side clearance. Is there a source of shims for the R200, or do you make your own out of shim stock? The parts people at our local Nissan dealer looked at me as if I were from another planet. Also, what is the torque for the carrier bearing cap bolts? Thanks for the help. John.

I really don't want to change to a 5 lug setup even though they are probably stronger. I have a pretty good investment in wheels, etc that I hate to lose. Is their a source for high grade studs, say grade 8 or better?

Cruez, a friend has a like new Holley 600 cfm EFI setup he wants to sell. I'm just right up the road in Ellenboro. Let me know if your interested. About 400 bucks IIRC.

That was great!!!!! I loved it.