Scarab 155

Hi: I live in the Bay Area and have seen several V8 Z's advertised for $4,000 +. Most were Gen 1 or 2 Chevy's like the one in your post. I'd say that the body looks pretty good in photos and if there is no rust you've found a gem ! I've got a Scarab Z with a similar engine and they are the easiest thing to work on you'll ever find. Parts are cheap and plentiful and tuning is a snap. So I'd say you could look at somewhere between $ 5,000 and $ 7,500 for the car. If it's all you say, you'll have a very nice ride. If you get it, let us know. Scarab # 155

As many of the Northern Cal Z owners know, Gollum has been organizing a Meet & BBQ for several years now. He recently started the West Coast Datsun Club on Wild About Cars (www.wildaboutcars.com) Membership is free and it's a great place for info and news. Tech Manuals are being added as fast as we get them and there's a lot there for Z car owners as well as other brands. It is not intended to take away from this great forum but is another source of good stuff for all. Thanks to Gollum for his dedication and effort.

Here's a picture of the gas cap

I've got a locking cap -- NOS -- PM me for photo and price.

Here is a photo of the Hooker engine mounts for the 240Z Chevy V8 conversion. Also a copy of the installation instructions. You can see the slots that were mentioned in a previous post. I am not aware that Nordskog did any conversions on customer cars. They may have, but as far as I know, they sold kits. Maybe someone more familar with Nordskog will know for sure. I do know that Scarab Engineering added a new VIN plate to all the cars they produced and sold as "new' Scarabs. However, for "customer cars" the VIN plate was not included in the conversion. Only an invoice can identify these cars. All other "Scarabs" are from kits installed by the car owner. Possibly Nordskog did the same. Hooker 12651 Scarab Mounts.PDF

Welcome: You may indeed have a very rare car. I keep the Scarab Registry and am always on the look out for real "Factory" Scarabs to add to the list. Please PM me and we can discuss the areas of authentication. Don't molest it ! Craig Scarab # 155

Please do look at the thread -- It gave all the part numbers you need.

Now's your chance to drain the tank !! Get rid of any junk floating around..

Those are standard Chevy small block motor side mounts part # GM 3990332

Sanderson makes a set of block hugger headers that clear angle plug heads. The outer tubes overlap the inner tubes (the opposite of your headers) and clear the plugs. I'm not sure, but they may line up with the reat of your exhaust as is. Scarab 155

Does your bellhousing have the bolts as shown in this picture ? If so you can use a stock Datsun 1974 B210 4-speed slave. Fits nice and does a fine job. Scarab 155

You can figure out the engine by looking at the casting number and then looking at the Mortec site . Follow this link and instructions http://www.mortec.com/location.htm

OK.. so it appears that the weak spark was a coil issue -- let's hope you solved that one .. As far a sediment in the tank -- that hits all of us at one time or another -- If you do not have much gas in the tank , you can drain it easily -- there is a drain plug on the tank bottom. Get a funnel and a plastic 2+ gallon gas can and drain the thing. I know in Contra Costa County they have Haz waste disposal places that will take the bad gas. Just did this on a rust free 71 I picked up. Had not run in years -- drained the bad gas, new fuel filter, rebuilt the SU's and POW runs like a champ !! If you have a lot of gas in the tank -- I'd put in a glass filter in between the fuel pump and carb -- This is not the end-state solution, but it enabled me to clean out the sediment a little at a time (each time the thing sputtered, I cleaned out the mesh inside the glass and ran some more) -- Did this until the tank was low enough to drain. That should solve the issue. You can test by running a fuel hose from the pump into a gas can and by passing the fuel tank -- Be careful and don't blow yourself up !1 Keep me posted, you're getting close. P.M. me for my email address if you want.

I'm across the bay in Contra Costa county. My Z is a real Factory Scarab -- VIN # 155-- You might have seen it on 101 when I go up North to visit friends. Have you changed the coil and / or voltage regulator ?

OK 570Z -- Chevy V8's are fairly straight forward engines .. 1. Are you getting fuel to the carb ? -- crank and if it pumps out -- the answer is yes -- if not, you have a blocked, kinked line somewhere 2. Are you getting spark -- on a dry engine (not after test #1) take off plug wire # 1 and see if you can get a spark to jump when cranking 3. double check the firing order - it's clockwise -- 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 -- make sure you know which post is #1 4. Make sure the engine is a TDC 5. Before you insert the distributor -- take a very long wide blade screw driver and make sure the notch in the oil pump shaft is lined up with the # 5 intake rocker-- 6. then insert the distributor with the rotor blade pointing toward # 1 cylinder -- if the distributor DOES NOT go in easily or with just a slight turn one way or the other, start over at step #4 The engine should start and allow you to set the timing If the engine fires but runs so raggedy that you cannot get it to idle enough to set the timing, double check the carb -- I don't remember what carb you have but an Edelbrock is fairly easy to adjust. See their web site for a good video Lastly, there are a bunch of Hybrid Z folks in the Bay area (I'm one) who will be more than happy to try and get you running. Keep in touch

From the photo of the transmission, I (personally) cannot see any side cover or side cover bolts .. This suggests the access cover is on the top of the transmission. -- That's a Ford. Secondly, the shift pattern you mentioned where Reverse is left and down also suggests a Ford transmission. Saginaws had the Reverse shifter stud near the others but so do Ford Top loaders. All Muncies had a removable side cover as well as Reverse left and up. Best get more photos of the transmission -- can you see the top of the transmission ? Also any and all casting numbers. If you want, PM me and we can see about meeting where I can inspect the car and help ID things.

OK 570Z -- Chevy V8's are fairly straight forward engines .. 1. Are you getting fuel to the carb ? -- crank and if it pumps out -- the answer is yes -- if not, you have a blocked, kinked line somewhere 2. Are you getting spark -- on a dry engine (not after test #1) take off plug wire # 1 and see if you can get a spark to jump when cranking 3. double check the firing order - it's clockwise -- 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 -- make sure you know which post is #1 4. Make sure the engine is a TDC 5. Before you insert the distributor -- take a very long wide blade screw driver and make sure the notch in the oil pump shaft is lined up with the # 5 intake rocker-- 6. then insert the distributor with the rotor blade pointing toward # 1 cylinder -- if the distributor DOES NOT go in easily or with just a slight turn one way or the other, start over at step #4 The engine should start and allow you to set the timing If the engine fires but runs so raggedy that you cannot get it to idle enough to set the timing, double check the carb -- I don't remember what carb you have but an Edelbrock is fairly easy to adjust. See their web site for a good video Lastly, there are a bunch of Hybrid Z folks in the Bay area (I'm one) who will be more than happy to try and get you running. Keep in touch Scarab 155

Great shots -- Here's what I can figure: I think your transmission is a Ford "Top Loader" --4 speed -- but the case and shift pattern match -- how/why it got mated to the Chevy small block is ??? See this link and scroll down to the end http://www.kevinstang.com/fordshift.htm What year , etc. I'm not sure. so ratios are unknown. Your engine block is Corvette/Camero preformance -- should be a 4-bolt main. The car was probably initially converted to V8 with a Scarab Kit - hense the decal on the quarter window. That came with the kits. Looks changed by now - see if you can get a shot of the bellhousing where the clutch fork is.. Scarab used a special bellhousing. Other things to photo -- motor mounts ,headers -- that way I can help ID the rest of what you have. Scarab 155

It's called a voltage regulator --- and Yes, you need it to run.

It would help us help you if you gave us more information on your car. A "Scarab" Z could be anything from a factory VIN car, to a Scarab kit conversion or an older generic name for a V8Z. Since your description of the shift patten of the transmission suggests that it is (at the very least) not a factorey VIN Scarab, what is engine is in your car and do you have pictures of the engine bay ? This will help. Thanks

My Scarab turns around 3,000 at 60 mph. That's normal for factory cars. Your trans should be a Borg-Warner Super T-10. They were in Vettes when Scarabs were built.

You could always make a Scarab type true dual system. It will clear the stock tank easily. Both pipes exit out the same opening (enlarged) as the stock Z system.

Makes sense to me ...look at how many folks ask the same questions over and over on this site -- If you could catalog all the numerous swaps and upgrades, it would go a long way to help out.... I like it -- go for it !!

Sounds great !! What would be the difference between what you propose and the Hollander Interchange -- http://hollanderinterchange.net/

You haven'tasked but: 1. Map your route -- (I bet it's mostly I80) and plan your evening stops -- Then see if through the site you can contact members who live in the area. Get their phone numbers-- that way if you do have a problem,there is someone who could assit you. -- also, people know where you SHOULD be !! 2. The current issue of Muscle Car Review (July 09) has a great article on a cross country trip -- but make sure you take extra belts, hoses (including fuel) clamps, duct tape, a small tool kit and any part that might be hard to find on the road -- I have a V8 Scarab so I don't know how difficult it would be to find water pumps, fuel pumps etc.for your engine set up. But if a replacement part is hard to find -- take a spare 3. Take a few quarts of Oil, a quart of brake fluid, a gallon jug of anti-freeze, some Stop Leak Should all fit in a plastic box (from Wal Mart) I've ridden my Harley (Softail Custom) cross country and also took a rigged up connection for the cell phone -- make sure your cigarette lighter works or rig up something to charge the phone. Good luck and have fun -- take a camera !! Cross country will be a thing to remember -- Craig