seekerfkf

Can anyone advise how to "shrink" sheet metal with a body hammer? I have a '73 that the previous owner had banged out the wheel wells to "flare" them. I have bought some ZG flares, but need to shrink the existing bodywork back to near-stock shape to make them fit right. I have the "metal fabricator's handbook", but it's info on this is sketchy, and my experiments don't seem to work. Thanks

Thanks to both for reply. Jon, I'll try the test. Forrest

I have an idea to use a couple of relays and sensors to use both low and high speeds on the fan ( I have the fan in my 73 and I like it but it is noisy on high speed). Anyone tried it? Any perceived drawbacks?

I have an idea to use a couple of relays and sensors to use both low and high speeds on the fan ( I have the fan in my 73 and I like it but it is noisy on high speed). Anyone tried it? Any perceived drawbacks?

I have just, finally, solved a raw-gas fume problem in the cockpit of my 73. I had read a few posts which directed replacing the hoses associated with the gas tank, which I accordingly did, excepting the filler hose, due to money considerations (yes, they are that severe}. The filler hose and the expansion tank I coated with plastic sealant material. The gas tank itself, when removed, exuded no fumes. Add it all up, and I still had raw gas fumes in the cockpit. After a length of time I would rather not mention, it occurred to me to stop going over the same items and look where everything appeared to be OK. So, in spite of the fact that the gas tank filler cap compartment looked to be securely bonded to the body, I sealed the seam with silicone. Look ma, no fumes! Of course the little compartment itself was now a mini-bomb, so I added a gasket to the gas cap, and now feel I have advanced another 1% toward Z Nirvana. Hope this helps someone.

Blueovalz, thanks for the reply. The brakes are stock all around.

I've been fighting brake pedal effort problems for some time. My 73 sat for 8 years or so until I bought her. $800 for a SBC Z seemed like a dream come true, but that was many wrench turnings ago. I have replaced the MC (twice), the booster (with a used one, though the original tested good for vacuum function, the front calipers/rotors. I still have to stand on the pedal to stop. I have bled till I feel like a medieval physician; get pretty good squirts judging by the sound and splashes (one-man operation). One thing I have noticed is that the drivers-side rear adjuster is not turning the wheel on the cylinder. I replaced the cylinder (it seemed stiff in turning action, but still no luck. I theorize that under-adjusted rear brake will affect all wheels' braking as the master cylinder will bottom out and pressure will be low. Is this the case? Also, the lever is moving on the adjuster, but not turning the cylinder wheel; any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks to both for your replies Forrest F

Gurus, I realize this seems to ask for an essay, but reply to any part of my query will be greatly appreciated, as I am stuck at a crossroads until I can dtermine if this swap is desirable/feasible. Thanks, Forrest F/

I have recently started swapping a 280 rear end into a 240. Since the entire rear end suspension came along with the parts, I thought why not swap the whole thing, since it would raise the rear a bit as discussed in another thread, and so perhaps alleviate the rear squatting problem I was experiencing with a SBC installed. Some questions occur to my neophyte brain: (1) Am I correct in thinking this would be a good way to keep my fender off my expensive (to me) Dunlops without increasing ride harshness? (2) Since I will now have a rake to the car, it seems to me this will negatively affect the already problematic weight distribution; therefore, I need to know if installing the front 280 struts will raise the front end. (3) Everyone seems to be lowering their cars for performance. In light of the fact that I am putting together a cruiser/daily driver, will this be a factor in handling if I raise the car a bit? (4) How much of a job is it to install the body-mounted brackets for the 280 sway bar onto the 240? (5) How difficult will it be to align the wheels with the 280 struts? Thanks, Forrest F.

Thanks to everyone for your comments. Forrest F.

Has anyone retrofitted the 240Z with the 280Z control arms and rear sway bar? Do bosses for the sway bar brackets have to be welded onto the body? Thanks, Forrest F.

Jon, thanks for your advice; I'll take it. Now, as to the procedure for replacing the side seals only?? Thanks again. Forrest F.

I'm about to swap an r200 into a '73 240Z, and it has been recommended that I should replace the front and side seals. Can anyone advise what this procedure involves, or direct me to a resource? Thanks, Forrest F.