John1jz

I'll be swapping out my L24 this weekend and installing a stroker engine. The stroker spec is: L28 @ 89mm, LD28 crank, Carrila L24 rods, nicely ported 2mm skimed P90, 290/480" cam, kamiari tensioner and ATI damper. The initial plan is to run this engine on 280zx distributor and HS6 su's. I'll be using a wideband to get the fueling as good as possible. The purpose of this car is fast road so looking for reliability, drive-ability, and simplicity. My other stroker zed is running bike throttle bodies and Life racing F88 ecu and my mainly track zed has a 1jz-gte on Life F88. I want this one to be more old school and basic as I'm not too concerned with high revs and top end HP. So, my question is, am I being realistic in thinking I can get away with 240z carbs and if so then can someone recommend a good starting point for needle sizes. All advice gratefully received.

I do have this sump from an ld28 but not sure which car the engine came from.

Hi all. I'm building a L30 stroker engine that's mainly for the road with a little non competitive track use. I have pretty much all the components ready but need to choose an oil pan. As the engine has been built up from parts and I did not start with a complete engine, I do not have a spare OEM pan to use so I'm looking at aftermarket. As I'm doing so I feel I may as well choose a pan with better oil control. The AZC cast pan looks to be the cheapest at $499 with the Moroso second at around $800. Are there any others in this price range that I should consider?

I know this is an old thread but I am in a similar position to George. I have one of these BHJ dampers and want to fit a trigger wheel to it. When the damper is installed on the engine there doesn't appear to be enough space between the damper and timing cover. The wheel I have is not the one from BHJ and is the standard 5mm thick but I think the gap looks to be less than 5mm. How did you get on George?

I had a measure up of the gap between companion flange face and the side of the r200 and both sides measure 408mm. Drove the zed to the drag strip yesterday which is just over 100 miles and it all felt smooth and OK with the shaft swap. Did a slow pass run to check all ok. On the second run I stated the burnout in the water and as I rolled out onto the sticky tarmack, the tyres gripped and this time the prop rear UJ. I'm not having much luck at the moment but will continues to upgrade what brakes and push forward with the car.

Thanks Jon. Can you remember if the short one you sent out goes on the drivers side (your passenger side). I'll talk to Joe about prices.

Sorry Jon, I'm not really sure who these were bought through as my memory isn't that good. The stub axles have chequered flag written on the outside. I'm not trying to blame anyone or say there is anything wrong with the products Joe is now selling. Just trying to understand why it broke so I can feel comfortable when I launch off the line. On the shaft that broke you can clearly see heat treatment to the end. The original shafts that were sent, maybe from M2, have been painted but as far as I can see there is no sign of heat treatment. The shaft that didn't brake also has no sign of heat treatment. Another friend of mine who bought these at exactly the same time (shipped together) is running a lot of power with an RB30 and not had any problems. He never bothered swapping out the replacement shaft he was sent. Did notice that the shaft I broke is about 1" longer than the one I have just put back in. I changed the shaft with the car lowered on its wheels and I have around an 1" of clearance before I bolt the axle to the companion flange. Interestingly the other side has about half this. Any comments on this? I do have adjustable bottom arms and camber plates.

just to be clear. When the kit was bought (chromoly axles, companion flanges and stub axles) from chequered flag/modern Motorsport, there were some issues with one of the shafts so everyone was sent 1 additional axle to replace one that was originally supplied. This replacement axle is the one that broke. As I want to run the car this weekend I have put the originallly supplied axle back on as the cv doesn't appear to be damaged. I feel it may be an issue with the axle but I'm just trying to run something I can trust. I looked at my friends 930 kit and the splines are larger plus the cv in modern and also larger. I also like the diff end stub. I have messaged joe for a price of the 930 kit minus the wheel side stub axles that I already have. Depending on price, this may be the was forward.

That's what I've been looking at Jon and my friend has just fitted. I have those outer stubs so only need the axle kit with inner stub and companion flanges. Will those axles be stronger than the one I snapped though?

I have these shafts that were purchased a few years ago. On Sunday I broke the drivers side (RHD) inner shaft as I tried to start a burnout. I'm have broken 280zxt shafts before and had hoped these would be stronger. To clarify which one, it's the new one I was sent when other had reported breakages. Looks like I'll be putting the original unused one back on. I am now considering an upgrade to those and looking for recommendations.

Hi. I've always had 240z's, and still have a few, but have recently bought a '75 280z. I have tones of 240 spares so trying to see what's different. I notice the floors and lower rad support are quite a bit different. The boot floor looks the same and so do the door locks. The door cards look to be a bit of an issue as I need to replace them. The 240's are the wrong shape and my spare 260's don't fit either!!!. Are early and late door cards different on the 280? Seats and dash look the same as the UK 260. Suspension arms look the same but just beefed up a bit. Fuel tank looks similar but I guess setup for FI. I've swapped the engine for a 3uz so not too concerned about changes there. Wiring is something I will need to get involved in so does that change from early to late? Sorry for all the questions. All advice/info welcome. John

Car looks great on track. I currently run a 240z with standard 1jz which generally get used on track now so I'm building a mild 240 as a runaround. Couldnt think of a better engine than one from this family so bought myself a 3uz-fe with auto box, loom, ecu and all the little bit I thought I'd need. I've had it running for a bit on the floor while I finish the wiring ready to put it in the car. I'm now getting to the stage of engine mounts and in all the threads I've read, noone mentions them in any detail or show any pictures of what they have done. I'm not sure why but I'm thinking they are not easy. I have a front sump engine from a GS430 and getting a rear/mid sump is proving very difficult. I've taken a few measurements and think I can get away with the front sump but it's very close and the engine will need to be just off the baulkhead. Any chance you could take some pice of the mounts and how the sump clears the crossmember? Thanks John

I've been running my 240 with soarer 1jz for over 3 years now. Car is not really a daily driver but I do drive it to all trackdays, drag racing, and car events. I always get over 30mpg if I stick to around 80mph on the motorways. Pretty standard engine on factory everything apart from boost.

I get great mileage from my 1j. I've been running the car on the road for over 3 years now and keep squeezing more power from it but the mpg doesn't seam to change. I get about 32mpg on a run if I keep the speed below 80mph. I drive to spa every year (330 miles) and get there on a tank without a problem. Car weights 1284kg and make 392hp at the fly with the only mod being cams. Standard ecu, injectors, and turbos. I've also run a few 11.2's @ 131mph with a little shot of nos. these engines are superb on fuel if you don't mess around with them too much.

Found some now. Just for info incase anyone else is looking for them. Rockauto have them in stock, listed under 300zx non turbo.