Modern Motorsports Ltd
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Posts posted by Modern Motorsports Ltd
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Yes, S30 hub vs. Z31 is about 3/4's to 1" different in offset, specifics escape me at present. How far did you want to bring it in to to clear your wheel to caliper? Verify rotor to strut/suspension/tierods is still OK in preferred location and that caliper won't interfere with your stut tube as well if spaced inward.
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Finally up in our webshop!
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=59
They've been going out the door and I finally got to listing them up!
We're very proud of how they turned out, fully anodized in hard black with custom dust caps and our logo! Prepaid orders have and will continue to be filled at the above noted $369. Material prices have risen notably since our last runs and thus our web price reflects an adjusted price of $415. Still VERY value oriented considering the engineering/machining/and other services/parts included as noted in webshop description.
We'll do other geometries as demand warrants but this has been our most popular request. Not many left of our most recent run so act quick if your needs are near term (remaining prepaid orders all earmarked/don't worry your sets are outgoing!). Yet another new production run will be initiated ina few weeks. (meantime our billet stub axles and integral matching CV companion flange adaptors are underway!) Thanks again for your continued support! We haven't been posting here much of recent as we've been quite occupied responding to hybridz members requests directly. Their are some very wicked hybridz cars being built! From TT V8's to supercharged stroked V8's, you name it, we can't wait to see them completed!
Cheers,
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You sure like the road less travelled Stony!
If I understand you correctly you need to push your wheels out as they won't clear those very wide Z32 calipers? How much do you need to push them out? Are you using the wider Z32 calipers? If so how's about the narrower ones? (I'm assuming you're using they aluminum ones?).
We've done the 5lug aluminum hubs to replicate the OEM pentagonal 5lug hubs, we could do a custom set with altered offset if you feel this will solve your dilemna. It would shave about 5 lbs off your hubs easily enough to help balance the hefty Z32 setup
Just an option. FWIW, I'm not sure in what manner your 'new' front brakes are setup, but the round 5lug Z31 hub has about 1/4" less offset than the pentagonal piece.Our recent hubs described here,
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=59
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Jamie: Juan's got 280struts in his 240 which is quite different from your setup. Others have run Juan's combo with coilovers & unsectioned and been fine, but evidently they were OK with a closer to stock ride height (likely quite near stock comparing to Juan's info) than Juan desires.
Juan: "my strut has just over 5 inches of suspension travel when it is jack off the ground when it is grounded I have 3 inches of suspension travel. this is before the top flat spring plate hits the top of the strut tube. I have bump stops that are about 1.5 inches."
OK, 'before top flat spring plate hits top of strut tube', I assume means before top spring hat hits top strut mount/strut tower? This was only for your jacked up measurement? or static on the ground? It's only your travel sitting on the ground/car fully set down and rolled (ie. settled, not tires cambered out just down off the jack) that is a relevant reference point. If you have 3" at that point this is near ideal as is for suspension travel...the bump stops we typically slice in 1/2 to 2/3 nicking off the pointed end to allow slighlty more travel until they engage.
Either way from your measurements you will have to section to drop towards your goal ride height. As present strut travel is near ideal you would ideally section 3.6" (to achieve 3.6" drop you noted) to have same strut travel after sectioning......however I doubt the struts have spacers that tall to allow such a large section. Juan, the numbers still seem quite odd as even with sectioned 280Z tubes for race 240's one would not be sectioning more than 2 to 2.5" maximum out of their tubes. Perhaps your 3.6" is excessively low and it's more like 2" or 2.5" you're seeking? , as this does fall outside what others have done even for dropped race cars. Keep your control arm angles in mind etc so they don't slope up and inward from excessive drop/that'll be very poor handling.
"I have properly installed this setup according to instructions in my springs and coilover package. "
Yes, we understand that Juan, noones faulting you in any way here, just trying to help get you going. Sometimes we try new combos and learn new ins and outs. Your desired ride height and 280Z strut in 240 combination are overall unique to date it appears. Your intended drop is obviously beyond a mild drop and I didn't understand this from your email desires sent to me. One comment to me you even noted you may not need coilovers which I interpreted to indicate near stock or mild drop height desired.
VERY good references for yourself and others to aid in future avoidance of this would be measuring your present ride height front and rear to common points we can all repeat. Perhaps common points would be the centre point of the inboard control arm pivots front and rear? This would be a great FAQ type piece I don't believe anyone has ever done? ie. some believe they only want to drop one inch below their present 'stock' height.....but present stock height with aged suspension could already be an inch or more below stock height leading towards an actual 2"+ drop from OEM and therefore sectioning would be easier to foresee. FWIW, very few actually require sectioning on their Z cars with todays typically larger diameter rims and corresponding tires.
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Juan, it's unfortunate your 280Z struts aren't giving you your desired ride height at present in your 240Z as presently installed. Let's try again to reduce this frustration for you and get you a solution. 6 days back I asked what your strut travel available is with no response, all others in this thread have echoed this thought in one way. Without this I can't give you a solution as you've requested here and by email. This is truly key to knowing what is your optimal solution, for example if you were to:
I believe it would be lowering my welded perches by 4 inches in the rear and front. My collars are all the way down and its not nearly low enough. I have plenty of strut travel so this is probably my best choice......We know your present base of threaded tube is 5" below top of strut tube, you've proposed lowering them another 4" or up to 5" additional in your posts for 9-10" total. This would give you maximum adjustment of lowering your 10" springs down to about 9.5" below top of strut tube, and 1/2" of spring above your gland nut (allowing 1/2" for adjusting nut)........essentially jacked up cars unloaded with perhaps 1/2" spring travel taken by bumpstop going to full compression when jack is lowered?!! Zero travel, we don't want to see you go thru more frustration hence our sincere questions. Now do you see why this available travel is essential to have your actual travel available known to proceed?
I sent you more detail in a PM to aid getting you back in the saddle
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Thanks Mat for your post. Im looking into this right now. Ill let you guys know what happens.
Juan
Guys, Juan said he's 3.6" higher than where he wants to be. Why bother just swapping from 10's to 8's? That's 2"....nowhere near 3.6". Their may be a conflict sitting their we'll expose. Did you read some other searched threads I referenced?
Juan 'lots' isn't anything to base a recommendation on, I can't provide further assistance without definitive answers, I'm sure you can understand this. Measure up as requested and I'll comment further.
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What do you guys think I should do...
Mike 8)
My most honest response...Sell all the various parts systems you've got collected, and I'll set you up with fully engineered, matched: 2 piece 13" Xtreme setups front and rear that will meet all needs with great longevity/tops in rotors etc and DOT seals with aluminum calipers. No guesswork and you can dial it in to yank your monzta Z down quicker than your Z06
Pick your custom rotor 9" OD hat colour and the 13's have all the bling when they catch up to later with all their questions -
Juan, I got your email so naturally came here
to follow your reference. It has been a very busy week, Moser order just unpacking for the beefy R230 crowd Some have received theirs previously Available strut travel IS NOT your tire to fender gap. Perhaps read some searched threads on '280Z struts in 240' , strut travel is ability for strut to compress or extend from present position. Assuming tire clearance for travel the strut MUST have adequate travel depending on all inputs of your suspension.
Please measure strut travel as noted above, you'll understand my post more and see what your options are.
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Ross' date=' I thought the 280 rear strut tubes were taller. So you could lower the perch, but you'd still end up with less travel. Hence the need to section. It looks to me like Juan could slap some 8" springs and get close to the ride height he wants, but that's no good if he's driving on the bumpstops...
Is that right?
Jon[/quote']
Absolutely correct Jon, similar to when ON3GO was sorting his suspension, without knowing travel available etc AT the ride height desired one should not move to a change as all variables haevn't been considered. 280 tubes are longer, so allow less drop in height vs. a 240 tube, with both being unaltered and on a 240car.
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Ok so Ross if I were to lower my car as low as the rears (all around) like in the picture I'd have to section my struts to keep strut travel correct ? ...can you provide the correct struts I need ?
Yes' date=' to all above, drop me an email so we can ask you all our other questions and make a specific recommendation for you
Thanks,
[email']sales@modern-motorsports.com[/email]
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Juan, their are those happily running OE unsectioned 280Z struts with 240Z tops with both lowering springs and coilovers. A quick search on hybridz just confirmed a few others with same combo, one thread just a couple weeks ago. Some did not section and others did, varying needs.
I'm not clear what's different about yours, your positively running the lower profile complete top strut mount? Did you trim the lower black lip on the OEM mount at all? If not one can sometimes gain up to 3/8" right their. Running only a single washer to space top spring hat to the OEM ount? You do have the 4" sleeves, not 5 as you noted. At full bottom with at least one inch above your tube, 10" springs should sit with top of spring
What travel remains right now in your strut? You can measure this up quickly and easily right off the bat to know if it's near compatible as is, if you have extra travel (ie. if shorter spring would do) or requires sectioning solely to regain required travel to sit at the height you want. What's your tire/rim overall OD?
PS, glad you got your rear brakes sorted out to get it driveable, what did you install?
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Are T/C rods becoming so rare new and used that there is a market for newly machined T/C rods?
I didn't know many were buying new ones at all??
I've got a couple 280ZX fully adjustable TC sets on the shelf available.
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http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9388
ok plain and simple' date=' I have a 1972 240z and want to lower it to that height [/quote']
Actually the car shown above isn't lowered much from OEM in the front, the rear however looks too low unless it's sectioned (ie. car does not look level at all to my eyes) ......rears I've typically seen that low that were not sectioned were on old OEM springs and would rub on squat and cornering.....
For that front height sectioning is certainly not required.
'2126' do be aware you're on the threshold for Tokico's with your 275 springs. They may treat you well or blow out prematurely depending on the rigors you put them through and your good fortune. We typically won't recommend them at spring rates above 250 without cautioning buyers. Ground Control set me up years back with Illumina's and higher rate springs, then later stated they were now aware of Tokico limits but previously had not been (this is once mine blew). Some Tokcios users do OK with even higher spring rates but typically only on autox high hp cars that don't see any hard use for more than a minute, so the heat and stresses aren't very signifant on those Tokico setups.
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Beware........a common issue with 280ZX calipers can be the ebrake internal cam system which can fail as it did with my OE units on my 280ZX. No harm replacing the very aged 280ZX calipers with a nice refreshed set. Many calipers I'd rebuild but that's one I'd replace.
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I know it sounds silly' date=' but the hardware is better... The locking pinch nut style perch, the top cap, spacers, and the powder coating seem to be of better quality... I've had 6 or 7 sets from different suppliers in hand, and these were by far the best, and it was all the little stuff that made the difference!
Attention to detail... that is the key!
Mike 8)[/quote']
I agree on all points above, but assume you haven't had our coilover package in hand yet Mike
I can't sit quiet and say nothing as a longtime hybridz member.... We use the same adjusting nuts as Ground Control and our main exceptions on other hardware pieces are the custom lower weld on tube supports we have. Last I was aware Ground Control was still using their oversized washers one has to grind down for maximum rim/tire clearance (ie. with an 8" spring as above). Their customer support is great, but I'll venture our setup installs easier and tidier with some of our custom details. FWIW we haven't had a single customer request a spring change yet on a setup, couple setups went out today,.....from some running 16x12 rears on up to skinny 9" and narrower rears , and we've offered shipping cost only exchange on springs shortly after install for packages we've advised on for a few years now.Good to see the comments on the locking nuts....the 'other' non-pinching style can be had for practically free hence it's use by others, neither ourselves nor Ground Control support that style.
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Ross
I would check for confirmation that the 5 bolt 90mm Cv axles actually came from an R230 as they are normally used in R200v in Z32NA and Skyline.
They may also be used in another domestic application that we dont have Aus' date=' but to the best of my knowledge 6 bolt 100mm CVs are used for all R230v. Neil[/quote']
Thanks, I'm quite comfortable 4 prs of 5 bolt 90mm CV's with 2 matching R230 4.06's (ie. output flanges-5 bolt) as well as a few other similar confirmed cases in a couple friends shops are confirmation.
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Ross' date=' any word yet on a front mount?
Thanks,
Mike[/quote']
I've had one recent offer to help with it. It's an item we'd like to work with a customer on with them doing some work and us helping in the production cost etc.
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"Ross,
I have spoke with you via e-mail about the Z31 hubs..
Any updated info on these? "
They're in queue at machine shop and expected shortly
You'll be pleased, our digitial camera's on the fritz, if I find a friends other digitial picture I'll post it up! -
A delayed update
to respond to some email queries we've had of late for those that don't have their order in queue: Moser's done our axles etc, some setups shipping, shelves are loaded and we'd like to get more of these R230 setups under your Z's With our Moser buyin complete we'd like to get more of their fine product in your hands! -
Mike, I've got a few donor pairs of those axles here. I can easily do a CV adaptor on the outboard end if you want to run 4 joints all the same. Then you'd only need the one pair of custom shafts made, which I may be able to help you out with as I've done my buyin with Moser (whew!) The 280ZXT stub axles are a weaker piece vs. 280Z stubs AIR.
I would reccomend a solution using custom shafts (ie. not spliced), for a few reasons. Much easier quality control and ease of replacement IF ever required. Peace of mind should be far greater. I've got several axles that are 5 bolt CV's from R230's that kind of surprised me, I thought all r230's were 6 bolts. Anyone know what differentiates 5 bolt's and 6 bolt's, 6 bolts just all turbo units? The 5 bolt axles appear very stout themselves, not as beefy as the massive typical 6 bolt pieces but still very stout!
Drop me a direct email with any questions.
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Thanks a LOT for the support guys, it goes a long way to making the long hours and efforts satisfying in a world where many just try and duplicate similar/knock parts off easy for a quick buck. We really enjoy our complete approach in working to offer very effective solutions and it's most rewarding when it goes full circle as without customer support and appreciation by running the parts the energy circle that keeps it going stops.
The custom stub axles will ease delivery of some of our other products as well
This week all our pieces for the rear control arms are completed and are being fabricated for our second prototype that we plan to take to full production very shortly. First prototype had some learning experiences and we feel we've improved upon these to nail it with this setup, will see very shortly:) -
Just a clarification note, the post above is not referring to our Modern Motorsports Ltd. rear disk setup. A few of our customers were surprised by this post and thought they had some changes to make......not so
70-78Z ebrake cables as is all work fine with our setup.I assume above post is referring to a 280ZX caliper setup, a few have asked me pros/cons vs. the two, here's an older link of our with some information about each system,
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/xtrainfo/reardisk.htm
the above link is still active from within our webshop rear disk package,
No intent to hijack your thread iaconsultants, I just got a few direct emails in short order and wanted to help clarify the q's I received.
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One of our customers enjoyably sent this thread my way, good to see this interest, we have just recently been actively pursuing this ourselves for a few customers; if feasible we'll do production as per usual! We commented on this in another thread not so long ago.
At present no pricing to put forth; I'm working with one candidate manufacturer to narrow our specifications as we progress in the potential production process. I've given them several OE examples as part of our exercise.
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lol...it's on back order. i'll wait 'till it arrives.
i spoke to one of your rep and advised me that i need to use the 240z struts onto my 280z inorder for the coilover set up to fit. is that true? are the 240z struts interchangeable w/ the 280z's? will there be any fabrications needed? if i'm going to use the 240z struts' date=' should i need to section all four? appreciate the help.[/quote']
Toysport, we've recieved no email from you tonight. Your above response and quoted advise from ourselves are not indicative of any recommendations we'd pass on. We have no bushings on back order and your coilover advise is certainly not ours! (not true by the way!) Are you positive it's Modern Motorsports Ltd. you're dealing with??? Direct email makes possible issues much clearer...
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ross...i got the rubber bushings i ordered from your co. except the front control arm bushings
Please email us directly 'toysport', via email we carry out individual requirements and support. Here online, we can't match your 'emailless' hybridz identity with an order etc,....drop us a note offline thanks.
Unless your '3 cards' pictured were 'broken' then the items noted would have been included. If you ordered a different combination then let us know in your direct email.
We look forward to hearing from you sales@modern-motorsports.com
Just an option. FWIW, I'm not sure in what manner your 'new' front brakes are setup, but the round 5lug Z31 hub has about 1/4" less offset than the pentagonal piece.
to follow your reference. It has been a very busy week, Moser order just unpacking for the beefy R230 crowd 
, and we've offered shipping cost only exchange on springs shortly after install for packages we've advised on for a few years now.
MML OEM Z31 spec Aluminum Hubs finally available!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
"So if you have a stock 240Z 4 lug hub then this is not a direct bolt on? This is for individuals who have already converted to the Z31? "
From our webshop info:
-very easy installation, just swap out your OEM 5lug hubs and replace with ours
-no need to source and rebuild used hubs for those swapping to 5lug
The hubs are for those already converted or who are going to convert to 5lug. If you're 4lug now, you could just swap in our hubs but you'd need then upgrade your brakes to something what goes with the 5lug hub (your OEM brake system does not bolt on/adapt with a 5lug hub).
Their's tons of info in these forums on upgrading to 5lug setups, essentially a 5x4.5 bolt pattern is typically chosen and brake system choices range from a Typical 4x4 vented system
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48
to a number of other options including our top end Xtreme series,
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=55
You can search the forums and do some reading, as wel feel free to direct email us any questions.