Modern Motorsports Ltd
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Posts posted by Modern Motorsports Ltd
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I have looked at your setups and have only one question: WHY??????????
installing an adjustable bar that way on a zx or any z for that matter does very little.
I have personally taken the time to look at the structural improvements of such an install and have determined it to be a waste of money. The metal on the cowl is to thin' date=' and the position of the bar to the side of the strut tower is to thin to make it worth anything.
If you want some real stregnth, then do this.
First off mount the bar to the strut bolts on top of the tower, then install a bar flat stock C channel would be very nice across the front of the cowl of the engine compartment. That will give you some strength.
installing an adjustable bar on the hood latch is a total waste of time, the metal there is so thin it will not provide any stress relief or securing of the tower to ant significant amount to make it worth the effort.[/quote']
Pretty blanket statements/summations you tossed out Jeff all of which I disagree except that your suggestion is stronger (and not sure who has something on the hood latch)?? We took the time to look into it, prove it out, do it and subsequently enjoy it for years now, I don't factually understand your negative assertions. Mine's been daily driven hard/tracked/autoxed etc. The ZX cowl is very strong as is the Z, and they accomplishes a lot in their unibody function. Sure your description is stronger, but you don't need a 10lb piece to do a 1 lb job. I'm glad you saved your dough, but we enjoyed our setups and yes, they served our functional purpose just fine. Your setup as described works fine, but so does my own.
FWIW, those doing a cheap front strut bar, easiest way is to take a section of lightweight thinwall small OD (ie. 5/8's) tubing, flatten the ends, drill holes for your strut tower bolts, and fasten. This 15 minute job can make a fine difference.
Respectfully,
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Dave Greimann made these tower braces from some pretty humble parts. Not much money either but look very clean and professional.
If you do a search for his name and then click the link to his page you can learn more.
Approach looks familiar
I'm quite certain Dave did his prior to me doing mine' date=' quite similar. We're both missing the key lateral one but the ones shown do help as well.[img']http://www.modern-motorsports.com/miscpics/mycar/P8190002.jpg[/img]
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Just throw a few ounces in their, lower your strut in.......raise it back out and read it like a dipstick and repeat till within a couple inches of the top (no need to have it sweat out later....yes this can happen!), now tighten up the gland nut and keep it upright.
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Ross' date=' any updates?
Did you ever get in touch with anyone that had an appraised or sold Z for a good $$ amount that could help your case with the insurance company?
No word on the car being spotted, I'd assume. I keep crossing my fingers hoping to hear it was found safe and sound.
Lot's of Luck,
Pete[/quote']
No updates
, not sure I want any now after all the horror stories I've heard of others and the condition their vehicles have been returned to them in. Pete, thanks for your tip on the higher $ Z sale, didn't pan out to be near or well above the 10,000 mark like I'd hoped. I've got a couple leads on some but nothign concrete yet. ANYONE knowing of a Z sale (or even a parts car/project sold) of 8k and above please let me know via email. No problem keeping details confidenital, just for my use and backing my claim.Nic, license plate's in my very first post. Thanks for the thoughts/efforts all.
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I updated the pics I first posted as a friend pointed out my original quick uploads were too grainy for someone outside our local circle to recognize the car.
Thanks for the kind words, no news yet.
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Ross will your adapters work with his axles ? assuming you both use the same thickness of metal on the adapter ?
Our setup is standalone and not considered to be compatible with other variations. Axle spec's are different as our the R230 CV adaptors we offer (more axle info in above noted link, as well as more comments on our R230 CV design).
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Those 280ZX TRW rear's are a great compromise budget setup. I greatly enjoyed those for a few years on my 280ZX before I leaped to coilovers. I never found a rear spring comparable to them. The TRW progressive rears were a great street combo with some BOGE shocks at the time. Much tighter than OEM without approaching Illumina/more track like setups. Satisfied me until I started doing more track-lapping days and then I had to get tighter to push it harder and enjoy it more.
HTH,
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Did a quick search, but didn't come up with anything. Wondering if the brakes from a 90's 240sx would be considered an 'upgrade' for a 280z?
Search online, they (240SX owners) very commonly upgrade their fronts to Z32 front brakes (that I'm no fan of, engineering-learning excercise that was for Nissan). I'm sure they'd be an upgrade over 280Z stuff but no idea how worthwhile.
240SX rear suspensions are great setups, but too wide to suit a Z as I understand. I've got CV shafts from one or two cars you could have free. I had been thinking of doing one in a 280ZX but that's on hold now with the unrecovered stolen car at present.
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Sorry about that, it was the gm ones i was talking about. Will the world class trannies or the regular ones hold up to say 450 lbs and 500 horses out of a 377 small block.
Not unmodified. For stout modified units go to:
http://www.darkhorseperformance.com/acatalog/darkhorseperformance_Transmission___Clutch_13.html
http://www.fortesparts.com/tremec/index.html
They have a reputation for being 'notchy' to shift but most users follow up later saying they're fine once an initial proper fluid change is completed etc.
I may have one customers full/new darkhorse unit available in one month's time if he doesn't sell his complete V8 Z setup / package during a present private discussion underway.
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Now up and in our webshop with a quick picture,
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=57
Cheers,
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.... does Ross make these adaptors? ....
Yes I do, packages in stock, some shipping out this week and stock remaining for new orders. More info here including axle comments to your q:
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30475
They're not in my webshop yet, hopefully by tomorrow along with pictures. Packaging orders is today's priority.
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ive been intrigued by the thought of swapping in a 350sbc into my 80 280zx for awhile now' date=' but most guys here with the swap or like swaps talk 1/4mile times.
im not into drag racing as much as i am autox and road racing. if i were to swap a 350sbc in, what kind of affects would it do to my handling? [/quote']
It sure improved my handling! Motivated me to improve the rest of the car
I ended up lighter than stock overall with still a full (ie. non stripped) car and a rear weight bias. Pricey to truly reduce as I did with aluminum radiator/battery relocation/aluminum top end/headers but they're all mods I'd have done with any motor regardless. An LSD and built suspension make them so much fun, greatly improves control and decreases that throttle sensitivity in a safe manner
I enjoyed mine at all build levels (ie. OEM to fully reworked Z), all were fun but it just got better with more mods. Even without the aluminum $ it's still great, you build your suspensiont to suit your car's characteristic. -
Thanks all, no update on it yet.
One favour I'd like to ask of you if I could.......if you're aware of any nicely done 280ZX's (Z's OK but 280ZX's preferred) posted for sale, or that have sold etc, I'd love to know some details.
If I get into a discussion with our provincial insurance agency (ie. if it's not recovered. or severely damaged) I want to be well prepared on what would be optimum value for my car and this comes somewhat from values of other somewhat similar cars. Please reply by private email on this issue. All inputs welcome, thanks!
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
Package will be $215 US, similar service/hardware included as our 280ZXT package.
I'm not aware of any major cons of the 280ZXT axles, they're notably harder to source now, and they are slightly smaller in axle diameter than the Z31 pieces. Z31's are easier to source now. Overall I'd use either axle and choose the one easiest and most very serious rear power, ie. 400+ rwtq etc I'd go to the Z31 CV's (or R230). For the majority either axle will suit them fine.
PS, they're not in the webshop yet but will be added shortly (my hybridz buds come first!).
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Here's a quick update to respond to the requests we've had lately on our rear adjustable control arm progress:
Fully oncar adjustable rear control arms, fully engineered and very effective design allows full use of OEM bushings, spindle pin, mounting bolts etc. This was one of the design teams primary goals and was achieved. Designed with each piece accomplishing it's full function with no duplication and easy adjustment. They weigh in same as stock arms, are adjustable for camber and toe. Prototype's were made and are being tested at present with production plans underway. Price not yet finalized at this stage, but not expected to exceed $500US.
PS, new announcements on our Z31 CV and R230 CV adaptors posted here:
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30473
and
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30475
Cheers,
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MML CV adaptors to help those adapting R230 differentials to their 70-78 Z's are now available!
They include are CV to companion flange adaptor (gets precision mated to your supplied companion flangs) designed to eliminate the small OEM 4 bolt companion flange bolt pattern, without eliminating this bolt connection you still have this weak point, we ELIMINATE it! We also include the appropriate positive 'stops' that eliminate excessive axle travel towards the inner CV joint that others that have done their own installs in the past have experienced. $265 US includes the companion flange adaptors, 'stops' and hardware (preferred pinch style stub axle nuts/washers, and other hardware for flange to flange connection).
We also offer the custom built axle shafts you'll mate with 4 of the inner flange style 6 bolt CV joints from the Z32TT's and Q45's. Our shafts our premium quality Moser pieces, they've had all other brands of axles in their shop for testing and theirs came out strongest in an apples to apples comparison so I have full faith in their contribution! Our unique design allows for slightly longer axles than any other R230 setups we've seen which will slightly reduce CV joint angularity and CV boot stresses.
In summary we already have the CV adaptors and 'stops', some being welded up for customers who've already committed and others availble for future customers. The axle's will be done shortly as well.
The axles will install easily much like our other CV adaptors.
At present we do not have a front R230 mount but it is something we intend to do within the near future. Anyone interested in helping coordinate completion of this item feel free to inquire.
For your R230 install you'd require your own:
-R230 differential
-4 each of the inner 6 bolt flange style CV joints
-your own front R230 mount (until we have on available)
-your own R200 mustache bar for your own redrilling
-companion flanges for the CV adaptor mating
Cheers!
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Our production CV adaptors for the use of Z31 (1st gen 300ZX) 4 bolt flanged CV shafts are now available! These remove the weakness of the small 4 bolt flange on the OEM companion flanges, use a keyed shear pocket that's centered by our machinists to mate your companion flanges with a precision tig weld. No more reliance on U joints or the small OEM bolt pattern. May also allow use of viscous Z31 R200's if their shafts match in overall geometry which one customer thought they did.
Their is one easy modifiction required to each halfshaft that a shadetree mechanic can do in an easy half hour. The end caps are tapped off the CV shafts, snap ring removed, and the end cage removed and then reversed to shorten each shaft 3/8's of an inch. This is necessary for proper shaft length and Z geometry. We'll have some pictures to easily guide any wanting some extra pointers.
Thanks to those MML customers that took prototype sets and proved their function! One was 240hybrid who posted some comments here:
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29521 , I posted 240hybrid's pic to my personal gallery.
Those who've already sent in cores for these will see their sets shipped out next week, they're already being mated up!
Cheers,
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I have done the CV swap with the 280ZX adapters from Ross and love them' date=' but if I switch to a 87 88 R200 from a 300ZX will the adapters accomodate the new axles or do I need to order a different adapter?
CorZette
[/quote']Assuming you get the clutch type LSD (ie. not the viscous SE model R200), your axles will work fine. You will have to swap your front driveshaft yoke from your present R200 onto your new unit as the Z31 LSD R200's have different front yokes. I've done this on 5 or 6 units without issue but some have run into difficulty achieving correct torque on the reinstall FWIW.
And with my new Z31 CV adaptors you can use 4 bolt Z31 CV shafts, which would likely include the viscous R200's! (assumine they outboard flange is 4 bolt and theyr'e of same length, one customer thought they were but it wasn't concretely confirmed).
HTH
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Unreal, my car got stolen from a not so secured parkade early Wednesday morning in South Vancouver at 1:35am (pics on surveillance cam!!, police have the pics).
If anyone see's this 1980 Nissan 280ZX, boxter silver, plate JGG 925 please phone the Vancouver Police, reference File # 04-17130!!
It's a visually unique easy to spot car, boxter silver with 5 spoke wheels.
Focusing on other things (Z31 CV's done, R230 pieces done, control arms installed) but this has me ticked!!!
Apparently their's been a real group of Nissan thefts locally in our Vancouver Lowermainland and Vancouver Island (club member's daughter had her silver 280zx stolen last week!).
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well are there any brake upgrades that will let me keep my 15 inch enkei wheels? if i cant find a good upgrade that fill fit with my enkei wheels. i'll most likey get your big brake kit and the 18 inch enkeis
thanks
alex
Both the typical 4x4 upgrade,
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48
and this spring, or sooner, I'm doing a PBR front setup that'll clear 15's.
I'm unaware of other's clearing 15's.
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here is the link to where i saw the brembo's on a 280zx http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19226&highlight=brembo+brakes
Cuban, those are only Brembo ROTORS pictured in the setup you reference, not calipers. Most anyone can put Brembo manufactured/labelled rotors on their rides, doesn't make them 'brembo' brakes though. Brembo offers OEM replacement rotors for many models. Brembo brakes typically implies brembo calipers are used. I've sent out some drilled/plated/brembo rotors for Z guys, been meaning to add it to my webpage as well. I discuss these in the thread you note above.
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JJO, just some factual helping points given, and info on alternates. Discussing them helps others doing their research become aware of the choices to make their own decision. The 'sell' mode of others (not typically list related) is very often not fact based but rather hype based, and I pride in my comments being fact based. Brembo is in no ways a 'rice' name/moniker. Been high quality engineering for years. If full floating rotor/big ass brembo setups were a lot cheaper I'd be on them myself.
All manner of rides here, soft/firm/stiff and !#$ stiff. They all see different uses and meet different desires/needs.
If you've ridden on 18" rim/tire car combo's, I wouldn't liken it to an 18 wheeler ride. The new cars with 18's don't ride like that nor should they.
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Cuban,
Those wheels can fit as long as your tires stay within similar size to overall OEM diameter or not much larger. They'll work with our adaptors as long as you buy a Honda type offset (+36 to +40 mm). Or I can do a set to stay with the Nissan 4x114.3 pattern if you like, just options.
As for Brembo brakes, noone has put together a Brembo retail kit for the Z cars. R&D on rather elaborate (as a Brembo setup for a Z car would be) is rarely spent by those of us doing performance parts for Z cars. I'd put up my PBR setup against any Alcon/Brembo etc setup for a head to head on a Z car
Any difference notable would be very minor I'd expect and not justify the cost difference. Have you checked out my Xtreme PBR setup? It meets all functional needs plus many others of any Z buildup I've dealt with and they've included drag to high speed road racing to fun street/track combo's.
I'll have the rear match for this setup available quite shortly as well to go with my new aluminum front hubs.
Any questions feel free via direct email ( sales@modern-motorsports.com ), take care.
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Does anyone have any opinions on this type of CV adapter?
Sure, you go to all that work to make a bulletproof drivetrain and it comes down to that tiny 4 bolt pattern still OEM on your companion flanges when done that way. ALL the shear is depending on those 4 bolts and the tear out from that hole pattern on the companion flange. My design uses a shear pocket and that inside bolt pattern is ELIMINATED as is the tear out issue as it's made integral with the new adaptor. Companion flange removal is NOT hard, did 10 yesterday, some 5 minutes each typically if even that much. Die grinder first to just remove the hydraulically pinched portion and then a strong impact to suck the nut off. Flange should then come without too great a force, but easy enough to use a gear puller if required.
I could easily do those adaptors, but it's not near as desirable IMO from a design standpoint. Shear strength of the connection and minimizing the number of fasteners are the most obvious points IMO. It's not clear with those if you retain stub axle nut access with the adaptor in place? Or is it a two step process to remove the axle and then the adaptor to get at the nut? Mine have full access once installed to the stub nut etc.
Lastly, if I was putting that much force thru my rear drivetrain I'd sure pull my stub axles, inspect for wear/corrosion and do the bearings. Something very often ignored in buildups. You're only as strong as the weakest point you've considered or missed.
PS that japan photo didn't come up for me, if anyone else can view it and could email it me I'd appreciate it. I'm not clear if the pick posted is same one or not? Stealth Z mentions milling and that shown is a lathe setup and rotary table so I'm curious what's what.....
I'm quite certain Dave did his prior to me doing mine' date=' quite similar. We're both missing the key lateral one but the ones shown do help as well.
, not sure I want any now after all the horror stories I've heard of others and the condition their vehicles have been returned to them in. Pete, thanks for your tip on the higher $ Z sale, didn't pan out to be near or well above the 10,000 mark like I'd hoped. I've got a couple leads on some but nothign concrete yet. ANYONE knowing of a Z sale (or even a parts car/project sold) of 8k and above please let me know via email. No problem keeping details confidenital, just for my use and backing my claim.
I ended up lighter than stock overall with still a full (ie. non stripped) car and a rear weight bias. Pricey to truly reduce as I did with aluminum radiator/battery relocation/aluminum top end/headers but they're all mods I'd have done with any motor regardless. 
I enjoyed mine at all build levels (ie. OEM to fully reworked Z), all were fun but it just got better with more mods. Even without the aluminum $ it's still great, you build your suspensiont to suit your car's characteristic.
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I have a small problem with front weight/wheelgap
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I assume you're at the bottom of your adjustment? Seems odd with 10" springs and typical sleeves, must be high on your strut? You didn't state why you want to change.....25 lbs here/there won't make the change you want. I'm not familiar with your resources but how much work for you to drop your threaded sleeves/re and re the lower perch? My custom lower pieces make for an easy install, I could flash 4 out to you for less than a single spring.
What top hats do you have on your coilovers? Thin ones (ie. 1/4") or 1"...if thin then go with 8's or section, 8's cheaper and far easier IMO. If you have thick tops, my custom 1/4" thick tops would drop your car the difference in thickness of your tops and mine (ie. some are in excess of 1" thick). I'm not sure which ones Ground Control set you up with.
Some options for you.