Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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I was able to get the picture off my phone so here it is.
Dragonfly
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If both your phone and computer are bluetooth capable they will talk to each other.
Both my phone and computer are dinosaurs, the phone has blue tooth but the computer does not...
Tony, it did not come from GA but there is a label on it that says it was made in San Diego, it appears that it may have been made at UCSD and used by the engineering students.
I personaly can't think of any thing it could be used for in doing testing on Z cars (or any other car for that matter) but I know there are some very ingenious people on this forum and who knows what someone may acomplish with a small windtunnel.
Dragonfly
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My wife and I were in one of the local Disabled Vets thrift stores today and in the back I spotted a windtunnel, as you might expect it is far from the size you could put a car into but it is also not a toy. The tunnel has a testing area that is about 6"W, 6"H and 18"L, the over all length is around 12 feet. This unit has a sensor of some sort in it and a data port at the bottom. The windtunnel had a proce listed on it of $89 and "AS IS" written in red beside the price.
I did take a picture with my phone but my phone and computer don't talk to each other so I currently can not upload the picture. The thrift store where it is located is in Chula Vista California for anyone who may be interested.
Dragonfly
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Thanks for the link, I used to know some of the members but it has been awhile... I am trying to get in touch with them because I would like to donate a "door prize" for one of their meetings. If I can't get a hold of anyone pretty soon I will just offer it up on here. I am not saying what it is at this time but it is not z car related, it is more location related.
Dragonfly
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I am trying to contact the Las Vegas Z club (Sin City Z) but so far to no avail... If there are any members on here, preferably a board member please let me know. Thanks
Dragonfly
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Here is a link to the Z I am selling, if you go to the last post you will see that the car has no engine or drive train and I am asking $6500. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81311-dragonfly-still-for-sale/page__p__771203__fromsearch__1#entry771203
Dragonfly
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Im looking for a completely rust free shell (240z preferred but 260z, 280z considered). This is to start a new project and Im looking for ZERO rust shell. Dont require drivetrain or interior/ Im willing to pay well for the right shell. Andrew
Take a look here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81311-dragonfly-still-for-sale/page__p__771203__hl__dragonfly__fromsearch__1#entry771203 If you read the whole thread you will see that the car is now a rolling chassis that I want to sell. I am asking $6500 but it is a car that is ready to race as soon as a drivetrain is dropped in it.
Dragonfly
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It said 8/2010 and it looks pretty good to me... now I am going to have to see if its showing anywhere close to me.
Dragonfly
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Wow how did that get past me? It rains in Cali?
Yep, it doesn't happen a lot but it happens... I will not even drive my Z in the rain at all, I actually ride my motorcycle instead because I feel it is safer. You have to remember though that my Z is so modified that gentle maneuvers on a wet surface are almost impossible. Thank goodness I never had an accident but I have been caught a few times in the Z when it has started raining on me, after my first multi lane transition I learned that driving at about 35 mph in the slow lane with my hazards on was much safer than anything else short of finding a place to stop and wait it out.
Dragonfly
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I am classified as self employed, I pay my own taxes, insurence, etc so unfortunatly no matched 401k or anything like that. Right now we've been putting back between, 4 and 6k per month into savings. Keep in mind my taxes still come out of that at the end of the year, so it's not all my money.
It sits in savings and I know we get some type of % but it's so small it's not worth thinking of, if the money is there I would like it to be working for me. I'm more worried about putting my trust in someone and getting scammed than I am about losing the money. I understand anything I invest in could end up costing me.
I'll look for some beginner investment books, any that you would suggest would be appreciated, otherwise I'll just see what Amazon has to offer.
Thanks again
-William R
100% personal opinion here but if I were in the situation you have described and my wife was insistent on CD's here is what I would do: Since you know when you are going to have to pay taxes and you can estimate to a reasonable amount how much you will pay in taxes I would take that estimated amount of money for taxes from what is currently in your low interest savings account and put it into the highest yield CD I could find that will come available two to four weeks prior to tax time. When the CD is cashed out use the money to pay your taxes keep the interest earned from the CD and do it all over again.
With the money you earn and put into savings on a monthly basis you can take that and divide it into an amount your wife is happy with and invest amount 'A' into stocks, bonds etc. (whatever your risk tolerance and studying allows) and amount 'B' into a CD laddering system. As a side note I usually recommend to people who are able to do so to try and keep at least the equivalent of one months expenses in their checking account and three months expenses in their savings account, the remainder should be put to work earning you more money even if it is only $50.
Dragonfly
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I was looking into buying a set of those great looking rear control arms! A question,Has anyone else bought them? Your thoughts? any problems with them or with service? 600 plus is alot to shell out for an unknown for me!
I have been running his stage III LCA's on my car for a few years now. I am very happy with them and I am not aware of anyone who has not been happy with their purchase of them. Here's a few pics.
Dragonfly
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I ordered a set of stage 3 rear arms on the 10th of december and paid for them and priority shipping to Australia (3-7 days) I still hav'nt received them or had a reply about them. Thats about $1000us. Now the website seems to be suspended and I have no way of contacting him. Could someone please PM me another way to contact him preferrably email.
I talked to Jerry and he told me that he talked to you already. If you have any other questions give Jerry a call or send me a PM.
Dragonfly
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Excellent post, but I have to correct your mathematics; its an easy slip-up, and I had to triple check myself to make sure you were wrong and I was right.
A core 10"x24" has an area of 240 sq inches. You would therefore be looking for an opening with an area around 40-120 square inches, which would vary from 4"x10" to say, 8"x15". 5x12=60 sq inches, 1 3/4x4=7 square inches!!!
You forgot squaring
Ha ha good catch, I started to square it but thought to myself "nah your just making it more complicated". Most people I know tell me that I make things much to complicated for people to understand so I tend to now try to simplify things as much as I can.
Dragonfly
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Does anyone know anything about vendor called Z Race Products?
Yes, I know just about everything there is to know about ZRaceProducts. The owner is a friend of mine and no he is not a formerly banned member from here, actualy he is a current member here but seldom ever comes on here.
David you know him as well you just may not realize it.
Dragonfly
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That one is an R200.
Dragonfly
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would it make more sense to mill .005-.010" off the head or just get a thinner gasket?
Personal opinion is the less material you remove from the head the better i.e. use a thinner gasket. No matter how you go about it since this is an overhead cam engine you need to be prepared to install cam tower shims in order to maintain the correct distance between the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. You have some leeway but you do not want the chain tensioner to be sitting to far out of its base... because if it pops out for any reason your engine will be scrap.
From a engine safety aspect as far as the chain tensioner goes they (Nissan Motorsports) sells one with a sheet metal limiter on it so the tensioner shoe can not come out.
Dragonfly
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I think it is more of a personal thing, but as a side note the bumpers on the 240Z cars were more for show than function, they would not stop anything larger than a shopping cart from damaging your car, so to remove them and smooth the rear of the car will not in the grand scheme of things cause a reduction in safety (since there really isn't any there to begin with). On the 260Z and the 280Z the bumpers actually are functional and although a lot of people remove them it is a persons best interest from a safety standpoint to leave them on.
Dragonfly
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In the United States the 2.6L was only made in '74 and both of the ones that I have had in the past had flat top pistons. I believe what you have is all stock. Some of my knowledge in the L24 and L26 engines is getting rusty so I am not going to try to answer the rest of your questions, but I will make a suggestion that may help you out if you have a little time. Look for and purchase the HP book "How to Modify Your NISSAN/DATSUN OHC Engine" by Frank Honsowetz, it will answer the questions you have asked and many more, it also provides you with part numbers etc.
Dragonfly
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As quoted in the HP book "Aerodynamics" authored by Forbes Aird (from pages 42 and 43):
Front-Mounted Cooler ...so it is obviously desirable to use as little as possible of both. To take best advantage of a small core area, however, demands passing a large mass of air through it. At the same time, to minimize the disturbance to external aerodynamics, it is advantageous to admit the cooling air through the smallest possible hole. Considered together, these factors favor a small inlet area followed by gradually expanding diffuser ahead of the core, to convert a small, high velocity stream into high pressure flow over the larger area of the core.If the internal walls of this diffuser diverge too slowly, it will wind up longer than necessary. Not only is this inconvenient from the point of view of packaging, there will also be a penalty in friction drag because of the extra length. On the other hand, there is a limit to how rapidly the duct can expand without flow separation occurring. The optimum seems to be a duct that is about as long as the core is high, and an inlet area anywhere from one half to one sixth of the core area, depending on the design speed.
I bolded the text where it comes closest to answering your question but I put the rest in there to help explain everything. An example would be if you had an IC that was 10"H X 24"W your duct needs to be 10" long and the opening of the duct (at one sixth size) would be 1 3/4"H X 4"W or as large as (at one half size) 5"H X 12"W which would probably be better for what you want. In my interpretation of what is said the angle of the IC does not matter as long as the inlet hole for the ducting is centered in front of the IC and the ratio that is used in the example above is followed.
As a side note I know from personal experience that if you run ducting like what you are asking about you will get absolutely no airflow when stopped (by that I mean any breeze or air movement that is naturally occurring) which can lead to heat soaking when sitting still (unless you decide to put a fan behind the IC to pull air through when needed).
Dragonfly
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I just noticed that you are from Fayetteville... if you have any intention of driving any of the two lane twisties outside of town I would recommend that you just go ahead and replace the tires. A little bit of fun on some of those curves could put those damaged tires past their breaking point and it will be to late when you realize it, then everyone else will have to deal with the local cops being even worse than they already are.
Dragonfly
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You did not say what model of Yokohamas these are but several models in that size (225) have curb or scuff guards on them, what that is is a thick solid piece of rubber right at the bead that will sacrifice itself in order to save your expensive rims from getting curb rash. Any way if you have scuff guards on these tires then it looks like you just removed them and the tire would still be sound for typical street driving, if you do not see a scuff guard on the other side of the tires then you most likely have done enough damage to the tires structure to cause them to be unsafe at best.
If you have any doubt about the structural integrity of the tires after removal and examination remember tires are cheap, cars and hospitals are not, so be realistic and safe.
Dragonfly
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If you were to reach inside the carb(s) with your finger and lift the piston you would find no more resistance than the weight of the piston, and if you let the piston drop it will fall instantly with a clunk (That Is When The Dashpot Is Empty). When you put damping fluid (oil, ATF or whatever) into the dashpot and try lifting the piston with your finger you will find it has a lot of resistance to being lifted but when you drop it it will fall quickly with a solid clunk.
Connected to the bottom of the piston is a needle that sits inside a jet, as the piston is raised the needle is lifted out of the jet, the higher the needle comes out of the jet the more fuel is pulled into the engine. When the engine is running the vacuum created by the engine is trying to lift the piston/needle in the carb(s), with the engine at idle the butterfly at the back of the carb is almost fully closed creating very little vacuum in the carb to lift the piston/needle but as the accelerator peddle is pushed the butterflies open and a strong vacuum is pulled on the piston/needle, with no damping fluid on the dashpots the piston/needle will slam to the top of the carb creating a wide open throttle condition even though the butterflies are only partially open, this will cause a very rich running condition and poor fuel economy along with accelerated engine wear and other bad things.
If you add damping fluid to the dashpots that create the correct amount of resistance to the vacuum applied to the piston/needle for your needle profile you will find that your fuel economy will go up considerably, the black stinky exhaust will go away, your power will increase and you will feel like you are driving a car that performs the way it looks. One of the better ways to find out about the needle profiles and damping fluids to match a certain engine build (stock .... to ..... wild) is to look up then contact ZTherapy they are the true gurus of SU carbs.
Dragonfly
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Here's a pic of 240Z fronts and rears
There are some similar shapes but nothing looks like a match to me, the 260Z and 280Z front hubs look the same and only have a small dimensional difference from the ones in the picture.
Dragonfly
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I'm not able to get out and look at my car right now but if I recall from trial and error on my own part, if you hook up the wires backwards you will read full on your gage when the tank is empty and vice versa. I do believe though that you are correct in your guess that the 'G' stands for ground.
Dragonfly
Found a windtunnel for sale
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted
You should have seen my wife when she saw me looking at it... "no you can't buy it", "who are you getting ready to call?", "I bet your going to take a picture and put it on Hybridz aren't you". Wow she knows me well...
Dragonfly