Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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Simple answer is Yes you can run a positive deck height. A guy by the name of Bob Hanvey did a great right up a few years ago about strokers, I am fairly sure it is on Hybridz but if you can't find it here do a google search you should be able to find it. Oh yea it is several pages long and some very good reading.
Dragonfly
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Disclaimer: I am going on hearsay and what I have read with the following comment... so please prove me wrong.
From what I understand there are no "timing gear sets" for the L series engines and the reason is because of the distance between the crank shaft and the cam shaft, this distance is much greater than in a V8 and does not have the width needed to place the idler gears required for a gear set.
Now this I know: There is an idler gear set that can be purchased for the L series engines that replaces the tensioner shoe with an idler gear and the plastic/metal giudes with idler gears, this system requires manualy setting the timing chain tension and therefore frequent testing and resetting but it reduces (to a small degree) parasitic drag in the engine and it allows more accurate timing with a higher red line when used in conjunction with upgraded ignition etc. etc. In a nut shell what I am saying is that if your engine is not built to an extreame degree (balanced, blue printed and full of forged parts $$$) this idler gear set is nothing more than a "cool" part that requires extra maintenance and attention.
Dragonfly
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Walk around and look for a trail of ants... they like the maggots are part of natures corpse cleanup crew. Of course the dog idea will certainly work as long as there is a dog somewhere for you to use.
Dragonfly
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Did you use a primer for aluminum? I did a great paint job on mine and the paint peeled in less than a year. I cleaned it all up used an aluminum primer and painted it again and it has been several years and still looks great. BTW you did a great job of making that valve cover look better than new.
Dragonfly
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The market is a tough one right now, but your car has a reputation outside of Hybridz so that should help. I agree with the others that the car should be sold as a whole, at the very least if you part it out it is going to take longer to clear the room needed for a new project.
Good luck
Dragonfly
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Just talked to Kevin (owner of the stolen RX7) tonight, he is pretty upset about his car being stolen. Kevin and I were talking a few days before the car was stolen about him getting involved in autox. I am keeping an eye out for it as well.
Dragonfly
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hey guys, i have just received my cosmo racing coilover setup for my z. i know i can adjust rear camber by using some new bushings, but i am still hung up about how to adjust the front camber. obviously there is camber plates, but all of the ones i can find are weld in. is that really the only option? i find bolt in ones for the 280zx and 510, but no s30. does there exist a set of bolt on plates for the z?
is the only option to get the EMI Racing Camber Plates from beta motorsports?
i am open to hear any thoughts.
yes i have searched, very few topics on the matter when i searched "bolt on camber plates" and they were fairly old. maybe something has come out
and for those that have welded in plates, how hard is that to do?? could a shop easily do it and for cheap?
Go to http://www.zraceproducts.com and send Jerry an email with your request. He has several sets of bolt in camber plates, but be aware you still have to do some cutting in order to install them.
Dragonfly
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I was more impressed with the first one... the second one I think the ferarri was just following along to get the "from behind footage", there were several times he had to slow down to avoid hitting the honda.
Dragonfly
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I did a quick check and you are right, it was supposed to have changed back in 2008 but was extended to 2010, "it" being long term capitol gains (they would have gone to 20% if the 15% had not been extended). So with that you should be fine although IMHO you are selling off low by selling at this time.
Dragonfly
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Okay, I cashed out a fund and have to claim 17,000$ interest this year, I haven't talked to any finance agent yet, because taxes are so far off. Am I going to get hit with 35%. The difference from 15-35% is like an LS1 swap!.
Is this still part of the game? I hope so, if not you need to do some more studying on stocks and taxes before you take a hard hit.
Dragonfly
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Sounds to me like you found some of the non-liquid tight electrical devices on your engine. A lot of searching and reading will tell you specificaly which pieces to open up and dry as I don't know them myself (carbed and simple), but I can tell you if it has a wire attached to it and a way to open it up... open it up and make sure it is dry and not corroded and has a good ground. As a side note it is always best to try something you have never done before in daylight much less chance of an "oh crap" situation.
Dragonfly
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projectors for your car?
Judging from the sketch in AK-Z's sig I'm thinking your right. I have motorcycle mirrors on my Z (from a Ducati 999) and love them and the looks, I think the R1 lights would look great if they look anywhere near as good as the sketch.
Dragonfly
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The last half of this video lets you hear what my stroker sounds like, if yours sounds like this you are fine.
Dragonfly
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Can't help you at all with your question/problem but I can suggest one of these, they come in very handy when you are on your back under the dash.
You can pick one up from Dixieline Lumber for less than $20. I have used several different types in my daily work and this style is by far the best and of course you have both hands free. They are generaly called "head lights" and this model uses two AA batteries and last for about 40 hours before requiring new batteries.
Dragonfly
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I have learned from past experience. If you are still on the factory half shafts, then it is necessary to bring at least two extra axles to the track.
As I recall you also brought a set of jackstands, a floor jack and tools... you knew what was going to happen...
janaka, welcome to the "found the weak link" club. I ran several 1.8xx, a few 1.7xx and what probably would have been a 1.6xx (60' times) if I had not twisted mine out.
My U joint.
I did a little more than break the U joint, this is how the replacement fit.
I saw in your pictures that you managed to twist your half shaft a little more than I did mine.
Dragonfly
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I don't see the point of a wheelie bar in the back on a Front wheel drive car......
You have to think of the rear wheels as a pivot point for the car, when you put a wheelie bar on it it's not to stop it from doing a wheelie it is to reduce the pivoting motion and keep more weight on the front tires.
Dragonfly
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I came in my 240 and wanted to park up front but was I told I couldn't because that was for the gtr's. Datsun museum and they had the high dollar nissan with parking priority
Everything else was alright. Twin turbo v8 was the highlight for sure. I found some pics on another forum..Ill have to find it..
The owner of that car is Hanns the member who started this thread.
Dragonfly
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First of all I'm glad you got the car back. Now for my comments on anti theft, a number of years ago my ex-father in law installed what was more of a booby trap than a kill switch into his truck... it was not neccisarily dangerous but quite effective. What he did was he added a wire to the coil wire that ran to a hidden switch and then to the drivers seat with some bare wire threaded into the seat and seat back, if the truck was started without the hidden switch turned off whoever was in the drivers seat got the suprise of thier life.
I only saw it work once and that was when he tested it on one of my unsuspecting ex-brother in laws, although I did not know what happened until later it was quite entertaining to watch him come out of that truck like he was under attack by invisible hornets. Now I don't know how good of an idea it is to actualy make something like that for your car, for all I know it could cause problems with how the car runs, it's hard to say since poor old Sam was working on something with that truck every day or two anyway. BTW I never drove that truck and you could not pay me enough to try.
Dragonfly
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I personaly always tighten mine to 80 lb/ft. I tighten in incriments, starting at 40 lb/ft then 60 lb/ft and final torque 80 lb/ft. The other thing that "I" do which could be considered overkill is I make sure the wheel is unloaded (no weight on the wheel) engage the brakes and then torque the lug nuts.
Dragonfly
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Just saw one on the freeway today
the car looks much better to me in motion than when sitting at a car show like the last two that I saw... The one I saw today was all black with some chrome accents and it looked tough as all hell.Dragonfly
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How about the lights off of a Geo Storm? Pretty much the same as the fourth gen Camaro headlights:
I call it "The Homosexual French Camaro," or alternately, in the case of the hunchback (which was my first car) "The New Gremlin"
Ugly? sorta, but believe it or not it grows on you. Not a horrible little car, and believe it or not it is (very) distant kin to the 1990s FWD Lotus Elan.
It's funny that you put that picture up of the Geo, that is the same car (even the same color) as the one I got my "Camaro headlights" out of. The lights are the same between the two although I think there is a very slight difference in the housing that holds the lights.
Also for anyone thinking about pulling those headlights and housings out of a Geo in the wrecking yard... be prepared, it is quite a chore.
Dragonfly
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A question for you... When you had your car on jack stands did you also install and tighten down all your suspension bushings? If the answer is yes that is the problem. What happens is with the car in the air the suspension is hanging down and in a positive camber, now you tighten everything and that condition is locked in, as the car settles it is either slipping on the bushings or tearing the bushings niether of which is good for your bushings.
What I personaly do is if I have the car in the air and I loosen anything in the suspension I will leave it loose after all work is done, set the car down, drive it to the end of my block alternating between hitting the gas and the brakes, pull it back into the driveway and onto a set of ramps so as not to unload the suspension then I tighten everything down.
Dragonfly
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Here is some information about oil pumps and pressure/volume that should help you.
PumpologyAn oil pump, by the way, does not create oil pressure. It pushes oil from one place to another. It is a positive displacement pump that moves oil as it turns. Oil is incompressible so once it leaves the pump it continues to flow until it encounters resistance in the filter, oil galleries and bearings. It's the resistance to flow that builds pressure in the oil system. Trying to force oil through a small opening creates more resistance and pressure than allowing it to pass freely through a large opening.
A worn pump can't deliver the same volume of oil as a new pump, so with less flow there's a drop in oil pressure.
As pressure builds in the oil system, it exerts pressure. A spring-loaded "pressure relief valve" built into the oil pump (or near the pump) opens when pressure exceeds a certain limit (typically 50 to 60 psi) and either reroutes oil back into the pump's inlet or the oil pan. This prevents a dangerous buildup of pressure that could rupture the oil filter or blow out press-fit oil plugs.
At idle, most oil pumps do not produce enough flow to force open the relief valve. Oil pumps that are camshaft driven turn only at half engine speed so output isn't great at idle and low rpm. Even pumps that are crankshaft driven and turn at engine speed (or double engine speed in a few instances) don't pump enough oil to overcome the relief valve spring. The relief valve generally only comes into play at higher rpm when the pump's output pushes more oil into the system than it can handle. Then the relief valve opens to vent oil and limit maximum oil pressure until the engine returns to idle or a lower rpm.
How Much Oil Pressure?
Vehicle manufacturers have traditionally recommend a minimum of 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm of engine speed. Using these numbers, most stock engines don't need any more than 50 to 60 psi of oil pressure. With tighter bearing clearances, pressure goes up requiring less flow from the pump and less parasitic horsepower loss to drive the oil pump. In racing applications, the old school of thought was more oil pressure was needed to keep the engine lubed. That's true if bearing clearances are loosened up. But most engine builders today tighten clearances so less oil flow is needed to maintain adequate oil pressure. This approach increases the horsepower output because less power is needed to drive the pump at high rpm.
A stock oil pump is usually more than adequate for most street performance engines, and even many racing engines. NASCAR engines typically get by just fine with no more than 50 psi of oil pressure at 9,000 rpm! Some top fuel dragster and funny car engines are set up so the oil pump will dump excessive oil pressure at high rpm so more power will be routed to the rear wheels.
Some racing engines use a "dry sump" oiling system. With this type of lubrication system, an external oil pump is used to suck all the oil out of the crankcase to reduce "windage" (oil drag) on the crankshaft. The oil is routed to an external tank and an oil cooler before it is recirculated back into the engine.
High-Volume & High-Pressure Oil Pumps
In applications where more oil flow is desired either to increase oil flow or pressure for better bearing lubrication and cooling, an oil pump with longer or larger gears may be installed. The physically larger surface area of the gears pushes more oil through the pump at the same rpm than a stock pump. A high-volume oil pump typically flows 20 to 25% more oil than a stock pump. The increase in oil flow produces an increase in oil pressure at idle, which helps compensate for increased bearing clearances. Consequently, some people may install a high-volume pump in a high-mileage engine in an attempt to restore normal oil pressure. But oil isn't metal, and the only real cure for low oil pressure is to replace worn bearings and restore normal clearances.
High-pressure oil pumps are another option. A high-pressure pump contains a stiffer relief valve spring that does not open until a higher pressure is reached (75 psi or higher). The actual flow rate of a high-pressure pump may be no different than a stock pump, or it may be higher if longer gears are used. Either way, the pump will increase the system oil pressure reading at high rpm when the pump is working hard, but it won't have any affect on idle pressure when the pump is turning slowly.
A high-volume or high-pressure oil pump may be recommended in engines where bearing clearances are looser than normal, in engines where an auxiliary external oil cooler has been added to improve oil cooling and in racing engines where a oil accumulator has been installed.
This information and much more can be found here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us020516.htm
It is explained in a better way than I could explain it, but if anyone wants to do even more reading than that by requesting that I write a detailed essay of how viscosity/volume/clearances effect pressure I will BUT understand that if I do take the time and effort to write it all up I will be very short with those who do not read it and then ask stupid questions.
Dragonfly
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I was out autoxing all day today so I did not get your PM untill a few minutes ago... looks like you did ok. As far as the oil pressure at idle, the stock Z sending unit is notorious for being less than accurate especialy at idle, if you really need to settle your mind get a mechanical gage and use it instead of your sending unit and oil pressure meter. Be aware though that the mechanical gages have an accuracy of 3% full scale so if you get a gage that is 0 to 200 psi it could be off by as much as 6 psi and you only need about 6 psi at idle and no more than 40 to 60 psi at speed (for a non turbo motor) any more than that on your n/a motor and you are just adding parasitic drag and stress on the pump and shaft. Remember what is important is volume, as long as you have enough volume (which you should with a stock pump and you definately would with a turbo pump) 40 to 60 psi at speed is quite capable of protecting your engine.
Dragonfly
the car looks much better to me in motion than when sitting at a car show like the last two that I saw... The one I saw today was all black with some chrome accents and it looked tough as all hell.
IMSA flared car with Primadonna wing???
in Non Tech Board
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Interesting... Z. I think your link has a problem though maybe this will work better http://www.autotraderclassics.com/details?%20adId=90361515
Dragonfly