Azdyl05

Thanks guys! I'll give it a shot.

If I have to replace the whole line, can I get a flexible line, or is it neccessary to go rigid and bend it to match the stock line? Thanks!

Hello, Sorry for asking a stupid rookie question, but while replacing my master clutch cylinder and disconnecting the hydraulic line, the tube kinked and the end-fitting broke off. Is there a cheap easy way to fix this or does the entire line have to be replaced? By azdyl05, shot with DSC-P200 at 2008-10-23 By azdyl05, shot with DSC-P200 at 2008-10-23 I'm reluctantly selling the car ('71 240Z) due to finances, so I don't really want to put more money into it just to turn around and sell it. I'll be posting a for-sale ad in the classifieds section. If anybody wants to buy it as-is without me replacing the cylinder, please let me know ASAP because I need money badly! Thanks!

Actually, it's been a while since I sat in the car, so I had forgotten about it until your comment about the firewall. I do remember seeing some fluid around where the firewall grommet is. Thanks for the reminder! I'll probably just start with the master, and if that doesn't work, then I'll do the slave as well. Like both of you said, it's not that spendy. Thanks again

Hello, I've been procrastinating on this for 6+ months as I've been saving to do my V8 conversion, but I'm sick of not being able to drive my Z. I have a '71 240 that either the clutch master or slave cylinder has gone out on. Is there a simple way of telling which one of them is bad. I'd rather not replace both if one of them still has some life to it since this will just be a temporary fix. Thanks! Dylan

Man, the deer are never gonna see that one comin... When they see the 100 spoke hubcaps sitting there an no car, They'll be just confused enough to let those guys get the perfect shot off.

Sounds good! Yah, keeping track of everything I take off and being able to properly reassemble is the part that scares me more than anything else. I'm going to take a ridiculous amount of pictures during disassembly so I have a reference when it's time to put it back together. Keep up the good work!

Sorry to dig up ancient history here, but for those who are curious, I just called about 5 different shops here in the Phoenix area and it looks like it'll be about $1000 to do my entire car. That's with copper slag @ $70/hour. If I want glass bead or walnut shell, it's $140/hour (double the cost) later

Hey Wickiewicked240z, Great work! I'm getting ready to start dismantling my 240. I originally was thinking of keeping my chassis on the car during media blasting to make moving it around easier, but seeing how nice yours is coming together, I think it's going to be well worth my time taking it down to the bare bones. I'm curious how hard it's been for you to move the shell around? Any guesses at what it weighs with everything taken off? Any words of wisdom for a guy about to go through what you have over he last several months? Again, great work. It's hard to believe this is your first restoration! Definately an inspiration!

Thank you Terry, as of now, I haven't unhooked or replaced anything. Is the procedure the same when bleeding from the slave? (can I do this with the clutch lever and rubber tubing as described by Chiltons, or do I need a bleeder pump?) When I do replace the master and slave cylinders (when I do my engine swap) would it be safe to assume that the new Tilton cylinder will have a bleeder valve on it? Thanks again

Call me stupid if you wish, but I can't seem to find a bleeder valve on my clutch master cylinder. I tried searching forums, but came up empty handed. My chilton's manual makes this seem incredibly easy, but makes no mention of where the bleeder valve is. I even went to a few parts stores to look at a new cylinder for comparison, but it was a wild goose chase and nobody had one in stock. Please help. Thanks