Z32Dreamer

So I finally made the big plunge and got my turbo motor and t-5. The car is a 77 and I would like to put the entire drive line into it. Im pretty sure I have a good idea as to what parts will be needed and what will need fabricated. But if I missed something please point it out to me. Parts list l28et megasquirt diy harness dizzy hei distributor fmic intercooler plumbing all turbo sensors turbo t-5 clutch turbo t-5 flywheel t-5 transmission t-5 transm mount t-5 drive shaft Before I start the swap I just want to make sure I have everything their. Im really still unsure about the transmission stuff. So far I have gathered that I will need the trans mount, drive shaft and diff flange off a turbo car. But if I remember correctly You can grab a r200 long nose out of a 88 300zx n/a and that will bolt in with no further modifications and I am assuming that would have the appropriate flange for the t-5 drive shaft.

Looking for a Drive shaft out of a borg warner t-5 2 seater car. Thanks Jon

This sounds like it would be directly related to mafs. If your hitting a wall at 3k the ecu is either not getting signal from mafs or the flap door is not moving.

Congrats! on getting your gremlins sorted out... Get that thing over to the shop so we can get it all welded up and ready for paint... jon

How do i determin the gear ratios on the different differentials,

Hey guys I have a bunch of datsun rear differentials and 5spd transmissions sitting in the shop i came accross by accident. I really have no way or know how to identify them without know what car or year they came out of. Does anyone know how to identify these rearends and or transmissions by part no.. or even where to find the part no.

I think thats what I will have to do switch over to a z31 ecu so i can run a piggy back.. does anyone know how many cc's stock injectors are.

I only ask because The injectors in my l28et or pretty much shot and I happen to have a set of 3000gt twin turbo injectors laying around. I believe these are low impediance 360cc injectors but Not sure what cc the stock l28et injectors are. At anyrate im running a stock management system so I was just curious if the 3000gt injectors could be used without modifing anything other than the fuel rail.

I have been sitting up for hours now reading up on all the different rearends and transmissions I could go with and cant really decide what to go with so Ill give you guys the run down on what I have and maybe you guys can help me make up my mind. Right now Im putting together my 78 280z I just finished building my l28et and I have several parts cars laying around just waiting to have the trans and rearend ripped out. Transmissions n/a 5spd out of 280z n/a 5spd out of 280zx Turbo 5spd out of 280zx Turbo 5spd out of 86 300zx Rear end options R200 long nose from 77 and 78 280z R200 long nose from 83 turbo 280zx 86 turbo 300zx rear diff 74 260Z 2+0 rear diff r200 shortnose from 88 240sx Now I have half shafts for all of these diffs. Now if I read right none of the above are going to have vicious lsd and none of the above will have POSI so what do I go with if I know im going to be throwing 350hp at this drivetrain.

So essentially if the machine shop decked or shaved the head and then did not adjust the valves by shimming the cam Up to adjust for the lower head hight... This would cause the valves to not close all the way hence why I am getting 0 compression.

I just ran accross another thread which brought something to my attention I had not thought about. When I was putting it back together I noticed their were some shims that went under the cam assembly. Could it be possible that I need to shim the cam up some more so that the valves can completly close.

Is their a sticky anywhere that tells how to chec and set the valve clearence.

The tic mark lines up dead on when the crank is at tdc and their is exactly 20 links between the two. The cam lobes for number one are set exactly opposite of eachother with the valves closed.

Well I believe this is my first real post on here so If I botch it up to bad take it easy on me. When I bought the car (77 280z) it had a blown head gasket but still had compression. I took the head off to find that it was pretty warped and deffinatly could use a valve job. I sent it off to the machine shop where they put all new valves in and shaved the head. So now I have the head back and decided to put a new timing chain in while im in their. I put the new head on, set the number one cyl to tdc on the compression stroke. Then sat the head on it torqued it down to spec installed the cam sproket on the number 1 dowl hole. Then put the lighter colored chain link on the number one mark of the cam sprocket and the other light chain link on the crank sprocket that is maked. Now when I bring the no.1 cyl to tdc the valves are closed just as they shold be so I put the entire thing back together and go to crank it over and have absolutly 0 compression accross all cylinders. How is that possible? I have redone the same procedure as the book describes 4 times now with the same end result 0 compression. Any ideas guys or should I just part the car out?

Hey guys I just bought a 77 280z it had a couple modifications done to it back in the day like. Oversized Throttle body Cold air intake Header large open Magnaflow exhaust MSD ignition When i bought the car he told me the fuel pump was bad I replaced it and finally got the car started and it started throwing up coolant out the tail pipe like a mad man. After further examination I determined the stock head is probably warped and needs a new head gasket. Well I have several heads to choose from to put back on it. I have the stock head which will need shaved a P90 turbo head P79 head E88 Head N47 head All will need rebuilt but just need some advice on which head to go with or which would yeild the most performance out of this N/A motor.