cholag

Just have to say, thanks to all you guys that helped and put your 2 cents in, I will be using everyones advice to help me with this.

zmanco you are right, I do feel the need to scrap the hole harness and start from nothing. Do you guys think this is a good idea, or should I just work with what I have and cut out what I don't need. Also letitsnow the harness in the s130, is one big peace that hooks to everything in the engine bay. And I have a small electronics back round, but this is my first time doing anything with car wiring, so thats why I felt the need to hook it all up to the battery. But if I can build a motor, I am sure I can do this!

Alright, so I would have to hook everything up to the battery then? I also forgot to add, that the car is an 1983 280zxt.

I was thinking of posting this in the electrical forum but since I am using an ms2 I thought this one would be more appropriate. But my questions are how would I wire up lights, dash lights, radio, alternator and things like that, I am thinking that I need to take out my entire wiring harness and make a new. I would have one harness for my engine stuff that will hook up into my relay board and a second one going to all my other stuff, but how would I hook it all up and where? Would I just hook everything up to my battery and then put resisters where they need to go? I think I am making this a lot harder then it should be but I have been wrenching my mind around this situation of mine for some time now.

I didn't know I needed a spacer when I first got it back in April, I just found out recently I needed one. So I bought that exact spacer and I removed my stock waste gate and had a shop weld it shut, I will be running a 38mm external waste gate. But for the spacer I gave it to my friends dad who works for ford to weld it up for me and I should have it back soon, I will post pics of it when I get it back, if you would like to see how it turned out.

But I thought the autos came with an R180 and the 5speeds came with a R200?

I have a 1983 ZXT that had a auto trans, but I found a t5 in the junk yard, so I had pulled that and now I am rebuilding it. But I was wondering, to make the speedometer work do I need the speedometer gear out of my auto trans, or will the speedometer gear in the t5 work with my existing speedometer cable?

YES YES YES YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!! I was going to guess and make them 30 or something, but while you have that manual open, can you tell me the torque spec on the hydraulic lifters that are also on the P90A head that I have.

Hello, I am assembling my motor and I had my cam reground with delta cam and I now need to torque the cam tower bolts. But I cant seem to find anything in my FSM about the torque specs on those bolts. Also I had searched and cant seem to find anything.

Alright, so I took the block to the machine shop, when the guy saw it he said it should be fine and he did that magnaflux stuff and he said there is no cracks. Then I took it to my high school auto teacher and he is ASE certified in engine rebuilding, he said it shouldn't be a problem. Yes it is very hard to find z stuff in Michigan! The Michigan salt kills our cars and you would be surprised to see a z here, if anyone ever wants to sell there z for a lot come here and sell it. I just saw a 77 280z 2+2 stock on the way to the machine shop and the guy wanted 2200 firm for it. Also the only other turbo z I have seen was in the junk yard, where I just recently got my BW T5 from, for $60:mrgreen::mrgreen:. Another one that I saw was a 82 280zx N/A stock and the guy wanted $2500 for it and I have had people come up to me and ask if I am selling my car when I used to drive it last summer.

Yes I did have the rings on the piston, when I was moving it up and down and tomorrow I will go the the engine shop and get it magnafluxed.

Alright, I ran my finger over that spot numerous times and I didn't feel a thing, then I put some 5w-30 on the cylinder wall and on the piston. I moved it up and down and it was smooth, it didn't catch anywhere on that spot. Can I buy magnaflux or whatever, would I have to go to an engine shop to have it done?

Hahaha I am glad someone laughed, I will think of something real funny to spray paint on the block just for you man. And I will get that block sonic tested or find a place that does it Monday morning. Also can I get some pocket change for that block?

Yeah, after I saw the damage I did to the front one I just left the rear for the machine shop that was going to hot tank the block and they got both out. But just to be clear everyone agrees I get a new block or do you think I can still save this?

Hahaha no I am not mad at all man, this is just another lessoned learned in the school of hard knocks. I have done some other stupid stuff but you live and you learn and I am not mad or sad. The only thing is, I don't want to pull that dang turbo motor out of the junk yard, thats the only thing I don't want to do! But yeah, the side ones were easy and they are in the middle of the liners so they go in deeper because they are not right behind the walls. I did call a guy that is a cert. mechanic and he said to scrap it because as soon as a run that motor hard its just going to get worse because I ruined the structural integrity of the wall. And thats what I thought he was going to say.

You asked and shall receive, sorry thats the best my camera phone can do at night.

Well I was thinking about getting it bored out, but wouldn't that just make it closer to the problem? In my head I think the only solution is to get it re-sleeved and I think that would cost more then getting a junk yard block. But it will be quicker, I am going to go to several shops Monday morning and show them my block to see what they say. I rehoned the block today and here is a close shot and a farther shot, it looks a lot better but still not fixed.

Alright I have a 1983 280zxt and my build is almost done the main parts to this car are: 1.NOS pistons from black dragon, size is standard. 2.New bearings and all new fel-pro seal. 3.Reground cam and rocker arms from delta cam. 4.cylinder head has new valve springs and seals plus a 3 angle valve grind and pressure testing. 5.Inter cooler is 24x12x3. 6.Turbo is a Holset HX35W. 7.440cc supra injectors. 8.N42 intake. 9.60mm TB. 10.ARP head and main studs plus rod bolts. So far, I have everything mentioned above and I will now start a list of what I don't have: 1.BOV is unknown 2.Will use stock waste gate, if it doesn't work then I don't know what will be used for an external one. 3.Megasquirt 4.Pallnet fuel rail 5.Summit racing fuel pump I believe thats all of it, but with this build I am hoping to put down at least 275hp or at the most 300hp to the wheels. Also I will be pushing 15 to 20psi of boost. Does that sound like a pretty sturdy build to all of you guys?

:cry2::cry2::cry2::cry2: I dont want to replace it, what would happen if I did run my car with this block, would it create a hot spot and blow at that spot only damaging piston #1? Also this is an f54 block and I plan to run about 15psi and in the long run 20psi of boost. I know its the smart/right thing to replace it, maybe I can pray to the z gods to bless my block? Plus no one got back to me about those ARP main studs torque spec. Also forgot to add thanks for everyones input, its been very helpful!

Well I did use a stone hone, but I think I know what it could be now. I looked at it again, when I was punching out the front core, welsh, or freeze plug (I said the three terms for it that I know to accommodate everyone) I had drove the plug to far in and it put a hole in the plug. It looked like I hit the cylinder wall from the out side and both those marks line up with where I hit it with the punch. The one on the right is more noticeable because thats the side I hit the most. So can I still run the motor hard with those spots and what should the torque setting be on my drill for the honing process because I had mine set to 10, I think.

As you can see in the pictures those spots are pointing toward the front of the engine block. But I am scared that those could be hot spots and possibly melt or blow a hole in the cylinder wall, what do you guys think? Also I forgot to add that I had bought ARP head and main studs along with rod bolts and I read on here that I had to torque the head stud nut just 10 more foot pounds, so that would make it 70ft. lb. not 60ft. lb. But I haven't read anything on main studs so would I just torque those down another 10 ft. lb. as well?

Go to rockauto.com they have the 1mm Fel-pro head gasket for $18.46, thats a steal because I bought one last year for $30 from a local auto parts retailer.

I was going to go with an N/A trans and get the drive shaft and diff, but now since I got the t5 I wont have to worry about swaping out the drive shaft and diff. I will post pics of it soon I also got the pedals for $7.50! JUNK YARDS RULE!!!

I just went through 4 pages of searching about t5's and I got a lot of mixed reviews. Some people said its a fantasic transmission others say you cant ride it hard and it breaks a lot. Well I have an 1983 280zxt auto and I want to swap the trans, so today I went to the pick a parts and there it was an almost complete 1983 280zxt manual. So I am pretty sure I will be going to get it tomorrow because its only $60, but I still want to know what you guys really think of that trans. The junk yard I went to is called parts galore on 8 mile and hover in Michigan. So if anyone knows where that is the car still has the dizzy, turbo, p90a head, cam, and t-tops. I just listed the things I thought were most important but there is no valve cover and j-pipe.

Wow, thanks for the very helpful and fast response!