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New-to-240z

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Posts posted by New-to-240z

    Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    (Sorry to keep going off track here)

     

    But, I was under the impression that because of the car being uni-body, if we do not stitch weld (forgive me if that is the wrong type of welding) the fenders back together, the structural strength of our cars will degrade. And for a car that is already 35+ years old . . . we need every bit of structural strength possible. Sorry if I am wrong, I have just been reading and reading and reading about this stuff.

    What brake option with Q45 hub

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I hear ya.

     

    Here’s a link to a Q45 brake upgrade (using OEM Z32 brakes). May not fully answer your question though:

    http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/z32-brake-upgrade-installation-on-a-q45.html

     

    The TTT route is the better way to go IMO. Some have had issues with the MMS route where they required machined end stops to prevent the center shafts from coming through. Also, the Z32TT and Q45 hubs have a higher spline count (31 or 32 spline…I forget) than the 280Z stub axle (27 spline), and are available at the junkyard (where billet 280Z stub axles are $695 at MMS which are still 27 spline). I also like the ability to use the Z32TT/Q45 e-brake function too.

     

     

    I know I'm poor, but the upgrade will cost around 1700 for the parts from TTT and then almost another 500 from the JY, so the total is around 2200 and that's a lot to spend on the ability to upgrade the rear end. The only problem I forsee is if you buy this setup, you can no longer use the S13 coilover swap kit that is being designed and tested right now. I seriously was looking forward to that kit, but with the way this TTT setup is made it won't allow you to do this correct?

    Jack stand points on 240Z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hey guys, I'm going to be doing a lot of work on my 240Z here for the next few months,(tearing apart the suspension, replacing everything with poly urethane bushings, and powder coating everything. Prob even going to go ahead and tear off all the undercoating and recoat with POR 15. . . ) and I was wondering a few things . .

     

    1.) What are the best points to put the jack stands on a 240Z for an extended period of time?

     

    2.) Should I put a piece of wood between the jack stand and these spots to evenly distribute the weight?

     

    3.) Is there some kind of limit to how long I should keep my car up on stands?

     

    4.) Can someone post pictures of the spots for me? :) No real need, but I'm sure someone will benifit from them.

     

    Thanks guys!

    Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    I've gone to http://www.rotawheels.com and I can only find the RB's in their list of rims. I see no RB-R's . . . . my question is, are the colors that the RB's come in the exact same color that the RB-R's come in? Do they all have a polished lip?

     

    I think after going through this entire thread like 3 times, that I have found my correct setup . .

     

    73 240Z. All stock suspension other then Tokio Blue struts and Eibach Springs.

     

    Front : 17x9 with 235's

    I will have a MSA Urethane Air Dam (trimmed a little of course)

     

    Read : 17x9.5 255's. I am hoping to be able to roll the @#$%^ out of the fenders and not have to cut up the fenders. But if I need to I need to. (I just don't know how to weld, and would have to pay someone to do it ;( )

     

    They should look AMAZING from the sample pics and mounted pics I've seen so far. This is a weekend driver which I hope to take to the track sooner or later. Nothing CRAZY, but just enough to be fun :)

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