Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Man, you do nice work. I have never seen anyone put their battery below the rear deck. I like it. I have never liked the idea of having the battery in the passenger's compartment with me. Did you include a battery lug in the engine bay in case you need to jump start it? Also any chance of water/bleach being kicked up off the tires and corroding the battery terminals? The picture doesn't show any type of wheel well/sheild.
Also any worries about a piece of road debris catching that big loop of rubber fuel line? From the picture it is hard to tell how high behind the rear valence it is. Will your exhaust/muffler be next to the fuel pump, or does it come out somewhere else?
Sorry, just read my own post. Hope you won't take all the questions as criticisms but as a sign of intense interest!!
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Having been in the military, in peace time, all I can say is that people take service members for granted until they are truely needed.
Send him a picture of the towers on fire to remind him why he is there, and tell him thanks from me. Probably not much to offer him, but it is the best we can do.
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You have an announcements section?
That section is often not present on my forum page.
Just keep entering via http://www.hybridz.org and see where that leads you on any given day.
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This is getting irritating.
The announcements forum doesn't show up everytime I log on. Really hard to get the notices.
And now the threads from the weekend are lost.
And once we switch back to the latest software my links to old HybridZ threads will once again point aimlessly into cyberspace. Just like they did when we switched to this software.
Whoa is me.
Glad I have been saving my favorite threads as HTML files rather than just the links.
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Here is the HybridZ favorite
http://www.modern-motorsports.com
Ross sells complete kits that no one complains about. Also Juan at JSK Inovations makes some brackets to mount Willwood breaks. His parts look first rate, but I don't belive his kits are anywhere near as complete as Ross's.
Hey Mike Kelly: I read on a metalshapers web site that it is actually better to weld chrome moly with a torch. They claim it helps stress relive the metal better than a TIG. Was that your issue with cro-moly? Other than the welding, cr-moly should work just like regular mild steel?
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The vibration could be amost anything. Dirty injectors, vacuum leak, bad vacuum hose, EGR valve. Sorry I can't be any more specific.
I owned that same year Prizm, but with the larger 1.8L 4 cylinder with a 4 speed automatic. The smaller engine with the 3 speed auto was truely a dog, but the larger engine and extra gear really moved the car nicely. We had very good luck with the car, with the exception of the Delco alternator and power widows that kept breaking a $300 regulator.
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Trying to decided between using the 4 x 4 Toyota mod or buy the arizona brake kit.
Man. You are comparing the $100 4x4 with the $1500 Arizona Z car brakes. Probably the cheapest brake upgrade compared to one of the best and most expensive.
There is no question the Arizona Z car brakes are as good as it gets from a performance point of view. Many people have issues with the guy that sells them and price wise you can do better elsewhere, but I have never heard anyone actualy complain about the Arizona Z setup's performance.
Arizona Z sells complete suspensions, but that is REALLY expensive.
You may want to just start reading through old posts, because some of your parts don't mix well together. KYB struts are nice street units, but adjustable Tokikos (however you spell that) are more cutting edge. Coil overs are nice, but you want to pick spring rates that will work with the rest of your stuff. The ZX rear brakes are more of a budget than performance option.
My suggestion is to get ahold of Ross Corrigan at Modern Motorsports. He will set you up with as much good advice as product.
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You might want to sift through the archives for threads about unibody. There was a really good discussion about the topic not too long ago.
With all respects to the guys you mentioned (I wish I could build something like that), unibody has several very distinct advantages over a frame chassis. You can get quite a bit more stiffness with less weight if you make the body panels a structrural, load bearing part rather than just dead weight tacked onto a tube chassis. The one comment I remember from the previous posts is "think pickup truck". Also think about how airplanes are built. It is more work to get right, but when properly designed every part of the unibody will contribute to chassis stiffness.
Also this is just my personal opinion, but if you want a full chassis with a solid rear axle, then get an old Chevelle or Chevy II and trick it out. It seems like such a shame to lose the IRS of a Z.
Just an opinion, and admittedly not a very popular one.
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I read somewhere that beam type torque wrenches hold their calibration better than the click type. I guess if you can't afford to get them calibrated from time to time then sometimes cheaper is better.
God awful lot of work either way.
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There is also a U joint on the end of the steering shaft that can have play in it. That was the cause of wandering on my Z. It doesn't take much slop in the steering system to make this happen, so replacing 30 year old parts is not a bad idea.
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Many minorities come from low income areas' date=' where the public schools aren't nearly as good, and the money for outside tutoring is hard to come by.[/quote']
That is actually a prejudice statement... You are classifying most minorities as being low income. To make such an assumption is actually prejudice.
Not an assumption. Simply a statement of fact. In our country, statistically speaking, minorities are "economically disadvantaged". A 10 minute google search should prove that for you. If anything YOU are the one letting your own prejudices get in the way of the truth.
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I have also heard others suggest using an air hammer with a pointed bit on the back side of the stub axle. It doesn't so much hammer it out as vibrate it out.
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If that car is everything he says it is, then it is a killer deal. He says it has a welded 3:36 rear, with a spare 3:36 LSD thrown in as a spare. Probably close to a $1000 worth of Ebay parts there alone. If the body is as rust free and never-been-wrecked as he says, than $3000 is a steal.
He did say he bondo'd over some rust, so check that out very carefully.
Definitely Scarab mount, but that is not a problem. Some guys like them. Sounds like a bit of a rat cosmetically.
Definitely worth going to see. Also never buy a car you haven't seen in person.
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LOL That looks kinda like the hello Kitty.
Andrew
i dunno whats funnier.. the exhaust or that you know what hello kitty looks like..
mike
You obviously don't have kids.
I also know the names of all the Wiggles and the colors of each of the telletubbies.
Big Hug!!!
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Are you trying to prove a point? If so... what is it? Do you have some sort of proof that it won't be able to handle the torque? If not then why the comments?
Ken
Just trying to get some definitive information. I am also interested in the G force, for much the same reasons as you. But the quote I cut and pasted directly from their website doesn't inspire much confidence. What would ice it for me is if someone is personally using the tranny with good results.
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Here's a quote for any doubters about the strength and durability
"the G-Force T-5 kit will handle roughly 600 hp or 500 ft-lb. of torque in a 3300 lb. vehicle running drag radials at the track with a moderate clutch upgrade."
Not to be a PITA' date=' but you took that quote slightly out of context. The entire quote is
Although we do not like to put torque or horsepower ratings on our products due to the vast differences in clutch, engine, chassis, tire, and mounting combinations, we can give a very rough estimate. There are simply too many variables to consider when trying to figure out how much power or torque a transmission will take in a particular application. Generally, it can be assumed that with the available upgraded mainshaft, the G-Force T-5 kit will handle roughly 600 hp or 500 ft-lb. or torque in a 3300 lb. vehicle running drag radials at the track with a moderate clutch upgrade. Obviously this is just a rough estimate regarding the power and torque handling capability, but it should give some idea as to what the G-Force T-5 kit will handle in your particular application.Keep in mind you can't compare the price of an LT1 T56 with that of an LS1 variant.
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OK' date=' I'm owned
Davy[/quote']
I don't know if I would give up so fast. I have read quite a number of posts about the gear spread of the T56. People like Phantom and Mike Kelly if memory serves. Maybe "useless" is too strong of a word, but I think you raised some valid points either way.
Two other things to consider. First is the conversion cost of a T5 to an LS1 vs the cost of an LS1 T56. One of the big advantages of a T5 on an older SBC is they are bolt up affairs. But the the LS1 T56 is a different animal. So I don't know how much I would be willing to pay to convert an LS1 to a T5, espeically since the LS1 T56 seems to be cheaper than the LT1 version to begin with. Guess you are going to find out for us.
Second, I would be somewhat careful evaluating the G Force T5. I would want to hear a few more real world testimonials from guys actually using/abusing them. If you read the weasel words on their site, they don't really state a torque rating. Others have stated they believe the problem with the T5 is case flex. If this is true, then I wonder how much can be done with just stronger internals.
Just more fuel for the fire.
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Did you notice the location?
Leavenworth.
I didn't know they gave those guys web access.
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The car unquestionalbly sold at a premium because of the "all original" potential.
Just consider the $800 a cost of doing buisness. Goodwill I think is the accounting term. Maybe, if things haven't degenerated too far, offer him shop credit for a few hundred more than that.
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VERY little chassis flex now, so Im hoping my door re-adjusting days are over.
Man, that would be nice, wouldn't it? Do you have one of the early Z's or a later one with the improved door striker? The floor pans on my 70 are fine. But if the frame ties fix the door problem, then it would be worth tearing up the stock undercarriage. Maybe I should look into the bolt in set from that convertible place. Keep us posted on the door thing.
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As far as I am concerned, if it has so much as aftermarket strut cartridges, then it is not all original. But a different engine unquestionably makes it a modified and not original item.
About the only thing that should be replaced on an "all original" vehicle would be consumable items, like hoses, belts, brakes, filters etc.
On the other side, there is such a thing as full disclosure. If he told you that the car did not have the original engine, then you can't very well complain about it after the sale. And yes, an L28 in a 240 makes it a modified 240 diminishing it's collector's appeal.
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Great link! Lots of good stuff. They have detailed pictures of a 71 restoration. The guy did great work. Now on my bookmark list.
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And in a pinch you can use them to whip up a creamy dessert.
Considerably cheaper than the ebay price.
Or pass them out to your passengers.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=whippits
Some Z's Just Don't Get No Respect...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
About the only thing that 2nd Z has going for it is it still has the 240 Z emblem on the glove box door. Those things are hard to come by. That and the tail light lens might be worth $50.
How the hell that 3rd guys hopes to get $2300 for that rusted out hulk is hard to figure.