TABrinn
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Posts posted by TABrinn
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I'm in South Texas, Corpus Christi to be exact. Much further and I'd be in Mexico! I work 10 hr days 7 days a week, so finding time for much of a road trip is easier said than done!
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Why keep the L24?
Besides keeping matching numbers (nobody seems to care anymore) I don't have to go out and scrounge up a new engine. From the sound of the feedback I don't think I could give away this one (would hate so see it scrapped). The 2.8 cranks are fairly easy to come by from all of yall building strokers. Sounds logical enough to me.Datsuns are pretty rare here in south texas. I have searched all the local junkyards and come up with nothing! I guess the high price for scrap steel is too tempting to keep them around. If I were to go through the hassel and expense of having one shipped, I'd get the big dawg LD28 for a long rod stroker.
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Here's the link to the Rebello engine Alexdeprat mentioned. http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm
From what I've read here, the HP numbers are a little optimistic but anything over 200HP and I'd be extatic. Besides keeping matching numbers (nobody seems to care anymore) I don't have to go out and scrounge up a new engine. From the sound of the feedback I don't think I could give away this one (would hate so see it scrapped). The 2.8 cranks are fairly easy to come by from all of yall building strokers. Sounds logical enough to me.
I'd like to keep the L24 rods for an improved rod ratio. Are there any pistons that would fit? I'll most likely get forged ones regardless but I'm just curious.
According to the redneck figure of 1-1.3HP per cubic inch, 146-189HP should be attainabe from the L24, 158-205HP from the L26, 170-221HP for the L28, and 189-245HP for the 3.1 stroker. Does this sound fairly accurate?
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I'm about to dive into rebuilding my L24. I want to know how much of a differance dropping in an L28 crank would make? (Basically turn into a L26)I'm going to send the E-88 head to Rebello to get worked over, I have tripple 40 DCOE's, MSA headers and dual exhaust.
Before you start, I don't intend on getting an an L28 turbo or NA.
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Yes they are curly. Like a bunch of magnetic pubes! If the cam was only slightly misaligned wouldn't it eat up the bearings first? The bearings are magnetic right?
Cow magnet???
The engine was mostly together when I bought the car but needed obvious work to even start. Missing fuel lines, battery, fuel pump uninstalled, throttle linkage for the trip webers needed hooked up, etc. Needless to say I knew then, as I do now, that a full rebuild was a definate possibility.
Does anyone know of a reputable machine shop in the south Texas area???
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I fished around with a magnet and the shavings are magnetic. The best I can figure is that the cam towers are misaligned, binding the cam up, or something is screwy with the rockers/ lashpads. For peace of mind though I want to rebuild the whole thing. Does anyone know of a good machine shop in south Texas? There aren't any here in Corpus Christi that have any experience with these engines. San Antonio maybe?
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Thanks for all the help guys! I ended up using a narrow paint scraper, ground off the corners and filed off the sharp edges. Lots of soapy water a little muscle and tons of patience. But finally its on there!
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I had my '71 windshield replaced and I'm now trying to put on the new trim. I swear I'm about pulling my hair out! I must be doing something wrong! My manual says to start at the outside lip, work it in as far as possible, then work on the inner lip with a "glaziers tool". I've no clue what a glaziers tool is or where to get one. I've tried to use every substitute imaginable with no luck. I'm afraid if I keep manhandeling it, its going to tear one of the lips. Tips, tricks, tool sugestions, what type lubricant is recommended?
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I Just got my car back from paint and have started to really dig into it to see what all needs done. A$$ backwards, I know! I just popped off the valve cover to see how things looked and there were metal "hairs" everywhere!!! I don't know if one of the PO's rebuilt the engine of not, or how many miles are on it since. I'm thinking I should tear it all down but really don't want to pull the engine if at all possible. Can you rebuild a 240Z engine with it still in the car, assuming the block doesn't require any machine work?
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I just wanted to give a little update on my progress. The new paint job is nearly ready! It's going to be Nissan Storm Grey (paint code K-27) with white racing stripes down the center. Its the same dark grey as the new Altimas and Frontier pickup. I also got a urethane air dam and BRE spoiler that are getting matching paint and all new gaskets and weather stripping throughout. The bumpers are STILL out getting re-chromed, and I'm hunting for a place to re-chrome my taillights. Untill I get some pics up of the new paint here are some "before" shots for you.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk246/TABrinn/img009.jpg
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I found a company out of Westminster, CA that specializes in plastic metalizing. I called them and the guy said it would run around $75 each. That is a very loose figure since he would need to see the part to get an accurate quote. If there is interest enough, I could see if we could do a group deal to get the strips chromed, and reflectors refinished, the whole nine yards.
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That is one possible solution but kind of a last resort for me. I'd prefer to be able to take it apart again if the need should arise. Besides, a good set of 240Z taillights sells for nearly as much as the entire car does now. There is a set of "Euro" taillights on ebay right now going for $1200!!!
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I'm getting my '71 240Z out of the paint shop soon and I haven't been able to find new taillights for it. Shiney new paint, re-chromed bumpers, polished mags, with old and crusty taillight chrome!!! :evil:I just got out bid on ebay for a decent used set that went for $430! It is a pretty rediculous price for a stupid light housing. MSA lists them for over $300 per side and don't even have my year available. OK enough ranting, on to the question.
I've decided to take them apart and send the strips out for rechrome. It will cost me but still be cheaper than any that I've seen so far. In order to dismantel them I need to remove the push nut that hold the halves together. It looks like a really thin, flimsy washer that is jammed down over a "christmas tree" stud located on the back center of the light. It is too tight to get my fingers in there and I'm a little hesitant to use some needle nose pliers. What is the best way to remove these things?!?
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Yeah...
I had an extra couple inches of rubber below the poly air dam giving me 2.5" of ground clearance at the front. After a drive on the highway at ~75mph a bunch of my added rubber was gone in the middle.
Somewhere there are some pics of a Urethane air dam at high speeds buckling down really far.
Now if it is installed with bracing and blocking off the open area behind it then it won't flex near as much.
I just got it in the mail today and it's all floppy like a piece of Tupper-Ware! What is the best way to brace it (details).
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Thanks! That was my best guess too. I just wasn't sure because it's a head on picture. Why don't they post quarter angle shots? They give you a better idea of the over all shape of the parts. Might actually sell a few more too!
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I know this gets asked all the time but can anyone ID this air dam? I know it's from MSA but that's about it. The pic is of Mark Rolston's Z from a Super Street write up.
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The body kit that came with the car is the MSA Type 2 with a California Style rear wing. I'm not really feeling the Type 2 kit and the Cali wing is not me either. If anyone is interested in the kit, wing, or a pair of headlight covers, make me an offer. I'll also post them in the "For Sale" section as well.
Does any one have any pics of the MSA Type 1 kit? It uses the stock bumpers right? On the website they only show a front quarter view.
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Yesterday me and a buddy went up to San Antonio and trailered back my new car. It's a '71 240Z and from what I can see is perfectly straight and rust free. Most of the major parts are all there but being a project car and having little parts in a half dozen boxes, things are easily overlooked. Along with the car I also got a set of tripple sidedraft webers, 5 slotted mag wheels, and a MSA body kit with a wing. The way I see it, the parts alone tally up to over the $2K sale price and the car was basically free!
Pics are comming soon (gotta get a camera first). I dropped it off straight away at the paint shop. Tomarrow the body man and myself are giving it a thorough sorting through to see what's missing and what needs work/ replaced. I live close to the beach so getting a good coat of paint is top priority.
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I saw this pic on the MJP website. I really like this spoiler. After searching and more searching, I can't find anything like it for a 280ZX 2+2 and too many people here say to avoid MJP, to ignore. Has anyone seen anything remotely resembling this spoiler?
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I happened to come across http://www.mjpshop.co.uk the other day. I was wondering if anyone has heard of these guys or bought anything from them? They have some flares for the ZX as well as an IMSA kit and other goodies. Particularly I'm interested in this kit for my 2+2. I sent an E-mail but still waiting for a response.
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I've been interested in a LD28 build up for a while but didn't know so many people were trying it out. How well does it fit in a Z or ZX (its a little taller)? Are the bell housing bolt patterns the same as the L28?
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but, the design of an intake has a bigger effect on a N/A motor than a boosted one. Therefore any gains from this setup could more easily be seen on the N/A engine. After that, yeah, twin turbo!
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Did Z-YA make any progress? I didn't meen to start up the jy throttle body debate again. Just want to know how well it runs.
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I realize this is an old post but has there been any progress on the LD hybrid? Has it been fitted in the 240 yet? In another thread someone mentioned that it interferes with the hood. Would there be any differance in a 280Z? I love the idea of a high performance long rod stroker and am surprized not too many other people have attempted it.
Hatch Struts
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I'm looking for hatch struts for my '71 240Z and can't seem to find any. Do the other years 260Z or 280Z/ZX fit without mods? If you need to modify them, how so?