DPG

I have driven a couple 240's with a lightweight flywheel and it does make a difference. My experience is limited so I can only go off of what I read on forums and research. It is hard when everyone says they know the best. I appreciate the information and will definitely take it into consideration.

I appreciate all of this information. I will have to rethink everything and decide.

I'm right there with you, this is just my first L motor build, I just wanted to make sure I guess. Ask the people that have done it for years and all. I appreciate the push

Essentially a lighter more responsive motor that revs higher at a greater speed. I know that the difference will not be major, but it will be enough to make me smile. Everything I have read about the difference in L24 and L28 cranks, other than stroke, has been their rev speed. I am lightening everything I can, through the drivetrain as well to get this rev speed. It may be a slight failure but it should be interesting.

You're right, I don't have any expectations for it to perform better, I really want the characteristics of what this motor will have compared to an L28crank/rod combo stroke build. I'm not looking for crazy power. I know I'm losing power compared to equal money I could spend, but this is what I want I just want to make sure there won't be any problems from doing this.

And the head is an E31 with 45/36 valves and a custom cam from Isky that is still being specced out. Nismo .6mm head gasket.

You're correct, they will be custom pistons. I am doing it for a motor that revs much faster. I'm not looking for an exceptional rev limit, just 7500, but I want the motor to spin as fast as possible. From my calculations the engine would be a 2.75L and have a compression of about 10.9. I would do a pin height of 38mm instead of 38.1. Plus it would be cool since I can't find anyone that has done this before

I have been searching like crazy but have not found anything about this possibility. I am building an F54 block, using an L24 Crank and L24 Rods, but I want to do 89mm pistons. The math works out on an engine calculator using an L28 piston height of 38.1mm (or slightly shorter), but I just want to be sure I am not missing anything. Any tech info I should be aware of that would make this not possible? Maybe the simple physics doesn't work for some reason? Any help would be great guys, thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the Gas Tank on the car. The overall length, depth and height. I know it is an odd shape, so the height obviously at the highest point. If anyone has one they can measure I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

No one has run this set up before? The E31 will be fully built with stage 4ish cam revving to 7500.

I have a set of 45mm intake valves that but am unsure if I should go with a 35mm exhaust valve, or the 38mm exhaust valve from Arizona Z Car. Has any one done this 45/38 set up on a head before and seen positive results? I will be installing these on an E31 head that will go on an L28 block bored .040 over, with flat top pistons. Thanks for any help guys! -David

Thank you

As the title says, I have a set of 45mm intake valves that but am unsure if I should go with a 35mm exhaust valve, or the 38mm exhaust valve from Arizona Z Car. Has any one done this 45/38 set up on a head before and seen positive results? I will be installing these on an E31 head that will go on an L28 block bored .040 over, with flat top pistons. Thanks for any help guys! -David

I was looking at the gearing again and you are very correct on the later 5spds, much closer ratios. I wasn't looking close enough on those.

Here is my thought process. I have had other cars to where you could change out the gears to basically a shorter gear car. The 1st 2nd and 3rd gears on the 72-76 4 spds were shorter gears than the later 5 spds. What I want to do is swap out the first 3 gears in the 5 spd with the first 3 gears from the 4spd. I'm not well versed and educated on manual transmission design and build so I don't completely understand what you mean by the main shaft gear and the counter gear needing to be a set. Could you expand on this with some more explanation?

Yeah, I was noticing the gearing for each year and the earlier models had much better 1st-3rd gears (for NA applications), Tranmission and Gear Ratios, so I think I will have to give it a try.

Hi guys, I am trying to find out if the 4spd gears from a 72-76 tranny will fit into a 5spd later model tranny. I haven't been able to find anything through searching. I know the 4spd and 5spd tranny's from later years shared the first 4 gears, so I wasn't sure if they changed the gear thickness. Thank you for any help! -David