BrandonR.

no longer need at this time Had to replace cracked jeep windshield thanks

Sorry Shooter got mixed up there ment Howlers setup hard to post on a phone/Wont let me edit if someone could have a moderator/admin delete my posts to clean up the page maby just put faces there instead That way someone can help Randall with his question on how to go about triggering his Ms from his zx distributor. Like i said Sorry for sounding onesided or if offended anyone wasnt trying to put down anyones ideas maby im bipolar and dont know it. A solutions a solution.Iv just seen horrable engine failure happen during breakin, among crank seizing guy lost a small fortune before installing engine . Was just trying to help prevent that and worded things to where they seemed insulting I should have said "one way you could do it would be to...." instead of "you have to..." Yall have a good day. Randall boost that beast and enjoy it wish i had f54/p90 solid engine.Sorry if i delayed any help for your distrubutor question from others.

Sorry to have offended anyone or the owner of the post.I NEVER said that it was the only way to do it. Didnt mean for it to sound that way I agree with the first thing you said CTC,wasnt trying to be an a$$. Lack of posts doesnt mean i dont read or research . I like Six shooters idea it gets rid of a 90deg on the pan. Tony D used a 5/16" punch as a starter hole and a sharpened 1/2" pipe gave it a good hit & sealed it up.I saw pics of Six Shooters setup a few days ago before i posted I didnt see his write up untill today but if you read it he DID have metal shavings but got rid of them fairly easy. I just didnt feel comfortable telling this guy to drill in to his oil pan and spray it down while on the car. I've witnessed crank failure in 6minutes,made me very cautious when taping oil pans:-{ I dont want anything i suggest to ruin someones car. Iv seen turbo pans for $15 the pickup cant be to much.If you do it in car use Six's write up.Id do it that way with the pan off the car that's how i am. Good luck

If you READ what i said it says hope the OIL FILTER picks it up along with mention of a magnet to help catch any other metal. The screen on the oil pick up isnt going to do anything for small particles. Back to the oil filter it only takes particles 15 microns in size to damage bearings "most" oil filters only catch down to 35-50 microns. Why is it when someone trys to help someone everyone always trys turning it in to a fight. Guess ill stop posting here ppl cant handle difference My statement of spinning bearings in seconds was not ment to be a sientific fact more of a warning. Iv seen a piece of rtv about 1/8" round kill a fresh engine in the first 2 minutes of running im sure some small bits of metal can do the same. like i said he can do what ever he wants to do. So can you idk Would you port your head or intake while its attached to the engine i wouldnt.I also wouldnt use a hammer and start smaking pipes into my oil pan either but thats just me id rather take the 30min or less to remove the part

Im sure its been done plenty of times maby even hundreds but by the time u get done trying to keep the drill bit from getting shavings inside you could have taking it off, cleaned the inside and made welding a fitting on 5xs easier. Imo as soon as that drill bit enters the oil pan even if it doesn`t have much filings its been contaminated, u may be able to catch everything with a magnetic drain bolt. But how much actually made it in and past the drain plug hopfully the filter will catch it. Then ur stuck thinking about the "what ifs" Is the time it takes to remove a few bolts and a pan worth the risk of having a small piece of metal fall inside & go through your freshly rebuilt engine Do what ever way you want to with that oil pan im just trying to help keep you from having to re rebuild your engine. Shouldnt sacrafice correct for quick. One thing i learned do it right the first time and there shouldnt be a second time also not as expensive that way for us with shallow pockets

Good to hear. Just for s-hits & giggles what ended up being the issue? Just incase someone else has the same problem. Sometimes my car starter will stay on if i use the remote car start, sometimes it wont even make a noise or turn over unless i literaly rock the car back and forth with transmission in gear..strange intermitten bs it dont bother me much. Atleast she will see the road again though good job!

Hi just a quick note. You asked if you could add an oil drain for the turbo with the oil pan on the car. Please dont lol. Your engine will be dead before it gets oil to the topend. ~ To add an oil drain for the turbo you would need to drill a hole and weld an adapter to your oil pan creating metal shavings and slag to go in to the pan. Remove the pan and then do the oil drain for the turbo, and then clean it better than you have ever cleaned anything. Id hate to see you put all that money and hard work into her and hear that you spun all your crank bearings seconds after starting. So clean clean clean. Also might want to look in to a 2mm head gasket to lower CR a little(not mandatory) And run some oil through the turbo when you get it to clean out anything that could have gotten in while it was off the donor car /before installing it on your car. Good luck with the swap make sure to post updates & pics while doing the MS install

Lucky Eruopeans cool setup on that dist. My distributor was already locked timings at about 24-25deg wish i didnt have to travel 10miles to work on the the thing could have known last time i messed with it a week ago and saved a bunch of ppl trouble. Is it all good to set my low and high boost setting on my controller to 7&10 or 7&9psi i dont need 10psi right now ill wait untill i get the rest of my gauges together for that

Thanks i finally found a post by pyro from 05 describing it i didnt know it had, mech. advance and vac. advance i understand a little better now just had to hit my head with a hammer a few times to get the brain cells firing again : ) just to be safe one last group of questions. If the mechanical advance goes by engine rpm and counter weights. What does the vacuum advance control i dont want to accidently lock that out(if possible)ill do more research you dont have to answer that . As log as all i weld are the mechanical advance "arms" i should still have vacuum advance correct. Im grateful for all responses Thanks everyone for dealing with me. Had the car had the proper l28et & ecu swap i might not have learned something!

Iv got you all the way up to the using the vacuum advance as normal.(iv locked a distributor before so i know what you want me to weld/glue) If i weld those weights in place wouldnt that make the vacuum advance part not function anymore. Making it useless to keep connected. Sorry for any ignorance im not too familiar with vac. advance distributor iv only played around with a GM distributor that only had mechanical advance

Nice (im about to check but do you have a build thread at all). I have one drag slip from the previous owner from 05 before the turbo swap ran a nice and slow 15.004 at 88.83 mph : D id like to see something better than a 15...im guessing your somewhere in the 13.5 ish area When you say to lock the advance then to use it normally what do i do, lock it or leave it? Time to dust off/find my timing light Thanks for the help though. I dont feel like my car has a bomb under the hood anymore : ) but ur 110mph compaired to my 88 mph..damn.. :-[ might be a little quicker now after the turbo swap but i wouldnt hold my breath.

Thanks for all the advice! I've looked in to locking the distributor some. Were you using the 188cc intectors or the 260cc ones. Will 7-8 psi feed the 60mm TB thats on it, i think the fmic piping is only 2.25" & 3" exhaust Also is that 24 deg. timing before of after TDC Ill look in to a p90 after I swap the ecu but if i can find one id rather throw in the whole engine and run edis

Thought about doing that but if I throw the bigger injectors in running 65-68psi at wot wouldnt I run rich even with that adjusted. What are my chances of detonation with the small188cc injectors at 38psi idle & 69psi wot. My distributor from what the PO told me was from a 280zx has a vaccum line running to it im assuming for advancing timing. Will this distributor damage my engine by not retarding the timing like the CAS based zxt distributor Reason I ask is 5lb/boost is ok but iv had a electronic boost controller in it for a while only have not touched it after I found out what ecu it had along with it being a non turbo engine. I just want to bring it up to the stock 7psi of the l28et once I get a wideband installed but not if it blows my engine. Sorry for all the questions im using a phone and im running low on phone time also hard to find similar engine setups that have not alreasy swaped to megasquirt or used the zxt ecu and harness

Thanks ill read some more posts about that and and turbo injectors on 280z ecu

Hello I need some help. I have a n42 block, Dished Pistons, with n47 head, currently running a 1976 ecu,harness,& 188cc l28e injectors. Also have a bell adjustable rising rate fuel pressure reg. set to about 38psi and about 65psi at the rail WOT 4.5psi on the boost gauge I dont have a wideband setup yet and will start building MSnS over summer. The problem I have is I dont feel safe with the set up it does have a turbo AFM and a 280zx dizzy not from a turbo car. Also has the vac.advance. I drove from california to ny with no problem purrs like a tiger so please dont post this setup wont work lol I have the 260cc turbo injectors I would like to install so I dont run lean and pop a block while in boost but she runs piss rich. Other than scrap my whole efi right now is there a way to lean out the turbo injectors using the turbo AFM and FPR eventhough im running a 76'ecu Thanks,Brandon