joelrs7
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Posts posted by joelrs7
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Just recently my car started getting hot and I found that there was coolant under my passenger floorboard. I believe my car is getting hot due to the heater core possibly going out? But what my main question because I didn't find much information on it is how to replace it and any recommendations on what website to purchase one, I didn't find any forums and I don't want to start digging into my dash before I know what I'm getting myself into. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
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Exactly what I needed to know! Thank you very much appreciated
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I currently have a 1978 280z with a 83 l28et swap. I'm running a stock ecu and im looking to upgrade and the questions I have are :
1. Is there a forum for step by step on instructions for mega squirt? I tried searching and didn't find what I needed.
2. Exactly what mega squirt ecu would be best and recommended with my application?
3. Is a Z31 ecu just as tune-able and good as a mega squirt? if so any ideas on where to find one, they seem hard to come by.
4. when running a cobra maps sensor does it have to be a cobra? if so what year does it need to be, and if not can i get one off any mustang?
5. would it be easier to build a new wiring harness or to re-pin the ecu into my current one?
thanks!
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So I just recently did a l28et motor swap into my 78 280z. The car runs great except except I'm having a fuel problems with my fuel and it burning rich. When the car idles its fine, and when I drive it fast the cars fine; however, if I drive at any speed consistantly at lets say 3k Rpms cruising then the car will keep bogging out/ cutting out randomly causing the car to jerk. When I watch the wideband when it does it the car will be running at for example 12:1 and drop to 10:1 when it cuts out then jump back up to 12:1 and do this multiple times. The car is also burning extremely rich, if I put the car to 40psi which is what my friends have there turbo swap at then the car burns 10:1 no matter what and jerks way worse. In order for me to get it not to jerk I have to put the regulator all the way down to 20psi and the car has absolutely no power and still burns rich just not as bad. I know 100% that its hooked up right and I've also tried the stock regulator but see no difference. I've also checked the fuel filter and its not clogged, and I've checked the fuel lines and there's no kinks or anything. I know its not my injectors or injector plugs and all cylinders fire. Spark plugs are new and fine and so is everything in regards to ignition. I'm running a custom fuel rail, msd fuel pump, stock turbo injectors, and non rising fpr. And all plugs on the the harness are new and have been tested. Any advice helps because I'm running out of ideas! Thanks.
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I got it all figured out and shes purring like a cat:) thank you! I hooked up the ecu like you said and I didn't know how to specify which fusible link it was so I didn't mention which one it was sorry. I found out what the problem was though, something with the alternator wasn't right and is was burning up. I got a new alternator, hooked it up the same, and now there's no problem. Do you by chance know any good wires I could connect my electric fan too? I hooked it up to a 12v constant so it would always run but it keeps blowing a fuse after a couple minutes.
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Hi today I just swapped in and have everything ready to start my l28et motor swap into my 78 280z. I tried to turn the car over and the car has spark to the coil and the fuel pump is running and all that stuff but for some reason my ECU is not getting power. The other issue I ran into is my fusible link starts smoking if I connect the negative side of the battery up and this issue did not occur right away. If you could help it would be greatly appreciated thank you.
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Check any old hoses, make sure your spark plugs are good, timing is correct, and one thing that made my car run completly better and different is new fuel injection plugs. Also check and make sure your connections are not corroding.
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This weekend i'm doing a turbo swap into my1978 datsun 280z and I bought a AEM wide-band and boost gauge. The problems i'm having is knowing where or how to put them? I would like to have them mounted on the side by the window trim where most are. Does anybody have any ideas on how to make a custom pod or how to source one that will work? If not I want to put the wide-band where the clock is; however, I would not know where to put the boost gauge.I don't want to put it where the radio is because my friend has his located there and its not a very Continent place to look when your driving. THANKS:)
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Try a New Starter,or cooling temp sensor maybe?
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The statement of "it does not have to be perfect, the injectors are flexible" IS NOT true, if you are using O-ring fuel injectors. Less than 0.5mm runout or you'll have fuel leakages.
For the hosebarb type, yeah, it'll work.
Yes of course Xnke. Sorry I should have clarified that it was only relating to a barbed fuel rail.
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Kick ass, you got some pics? What was the spacing between the bores for the injector barbs?
I honestly do not remember the spacing, I would have to go back and measure. Yeah of course I got a pic! Let me know if its good enough for you.
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Kick ass, you got some pics? What was the spacing between the bores for the injector barbs?
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I made a fuel rail for my 280z turbo and it was easy and came out great. I wanted to tell you guys how I did it to help anybody out who wants to do it. First go to jegs.com and buy a stick of 2ft fuel rail for rougly $33 plus $10 shipping. Once you receive the rail cut it down to 20 inches and file the end down to make it nice smooth and even. Once it is cut make your marks on where your injectors will need to go. Once you make your marks I recommend wrapping your fuel rail and putting it in a clamp and using a drill press for nice straight accurate holes. Try to get it as accurate as possible but remember it does not have to be perfect because the injectors are flexible. Once you make your holes tap the 6 to 1/4 national pipe thread and the 2 on the side to 3/8 national pipe thread. The most important part is putting the barbs in. Go to your auto parts store and get 8 barbs that will fit 5/16 fuel hose,and some pentax liquid teflon this will run you about $17 dollars. Now put on your liquid teflon on the thread of your barbs and only tighten them to where they are hand tight half way. Now for the important part. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BARBS. Take your wrench and tighten them to about 2/3 of the way in, they do not need to be tightened down all the way. Bam you have your fuel rail! I also would recommend putting your injectors on the fuel rail before you attach it to the manifold. I hope this helps!
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Perfect! Thank you. This helps alot:)
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Hey guys. I bought a 2 foot fuel rail stick from jegs i'm going to custom make. I have a pretty good idea on what I need to do, however; I wanted some insight from someone who has done it. I plan on cutting it to proper length, drilling and tapping holes for all of the barbs, and was wondering what I should use to seal off the barbs from leaking and can withstand gas. Liquid teflon? o rings? Thanks. P.S its for a L28ET
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Yes it has a stock ECU. The previous injectors were N/A ones that came with the motor. The reason for running such low fuel pressure is because it seemed to bog the motor and make the exhaust really bad as if it was running rich. With the N/A injectors I was running running 40lbs. And sorry what do you mean by vacuum?
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Hi everyone. A few months ago I swapped a L28ET into my 1978 280z. The issue i'm having trouble with is when I get the car to boost, and once at full boost it once to fall on its face. Also when I try to give it throttle it stutters and cuts out. So far i've replaced the TPS, cylinder head temp sensor, and replaced the injectors. I'm running fmic 32 lb injectors, and running 20 lbs of fuel pressure.(the problem still occured before replacement of the injectors). Any advice will be much appreciated. Thank You.
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bought it not running. sorry for the error
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I recently did the same thing as you just recently and bought the car running. the first thing i did was check all the spark plugs, bought a new fuel filter, drained all old gas, and changed the oil. the lucky thing for me is that the car only sat for 5 months and i got it running for 45 dollars.you as well are going to want to buy a new battery and most likely replace the terminals as well. brakes are an obvious one and make sure you have appropriate tools for the back brakes (the shoes), or have someone help your or your in for a mess. as well change any old cracked fuel lines or vacuum lines. replace all the bushings for the undercarriage is highly recommended but not a must, you can pick up a kit for 170 dollars roughly off Motorsport. i would as well check all your struts, i put lowering springs on my car and one of the struts was completely shot and had no resistance, i could pull up on it and the strut would just drop down which iv'e never seen. make sure to also fill up on all your brake fluid and bleed your clutch and brakes. if you get it running make sure all your lights are working so you dont get pulled over
, and replace your air filter. for the most part that i think will keep you busy give you a good start. hope this helps:) -
hi so i have a 1977 280z that i did alot of work on the past week. before i did the work it ran fine other then it sounded like crap because of the exhaust leak. the things i did was delete the egr by welding the top of the two bolts that screw in with another bolt. i replaced the intake manifold gasket, i welded in a new exhaust, i replaced some old fuel hoses, crank case hose, and some vacuum hose,took out the ghetto cruise control, put lowering springs in and replaced one strut. the problem im having now is the car will start instantly and idles great but if i give it any throttle it wants to die. if you slowly give it throttle it can rev pretty high without dieng for about 10 sec. dont worry! i read and even printed all 77 pages of the fuel injection bible. so far ive tested the mass air flow sensor and the flap opens and closes fine, i timed the car so the timing isnt off, i bought a new ignition coil, i doubled checked the firing order and its fine, checked the TPS, cap rotor etc, new fuel filter, and im running out of ideas on what it could be. if you have any advice please help.
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i plan on re coating my undercarriage and replacing all the bushings. when i re coat i was thinking about using herculiner because i can get a complete kit for 90 bucks, or i was wondering if it would be worth paying the extra money and using lizard skin. if anyone has done this and has some good feed back please let me know. thanks:)
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tachometer doesn't work, but all other gauges do. fuses are fine so i know its not that, and im not to good with electrical. any help is appreciated. and its a 1977 280z.thanks.
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Since you've already replaced your hatch latch, I'm assuming that you realize it's adjustable....correct?
A major factor in the fitment of the hatch is the hatch weatherstripping. If it's new (or just plain too fat), the hatch will usually not fit flush with the car body. Over time, the new weatherstripping will take a "fit" and the hatch seats better. Similarly, weatherstripping that is worn out or too small will usually result in the hatch sitting low.
There's a couple fellows on here that offer nice replacement weatherstripping, or you can experiment with the generic stuff at Pep Boys.
Hope this helps.
yes i adjusted the hatch to make it sit as low as it possibly can to try and make it sit flush. i think your right! it must be the weather stripping because its coming off and who ever owned it before me did a ghetto job on putting it on. i plan on buying a entire weather stripping kit off motorsport so when i buy that, ill pray that its only the weather stripping keeping it from sitting flush. thanks for the reply
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i cant get my rear hatch on my 280z to go flush with the body of the car. i went to a junk yard god a new latch and still wont go flush. i as well tried realigning it but did nothing. any ideas? thanks
Car getting hot
in Cooling Systems
Posted
Thanks!